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My Guide to a soft top for any truck project

Tim_B

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Feb 19, 2008
Messages
255
Location
West Liberty
I've never done it myself but I made this idea up myself about two years ago. I'm 98% sure this would work for a soft top look (it wouldn't really be "soft"), I was thinking....


:?:WHAT YOU WILL NEED TO GET THE PROJECT DONE::?:

1) Some sheets of fabric cut to the size you need and of the desired color. (Four 2ft x 2ft squares should be good for a 1/10 - 1/8 scale)
2) Paper Mache Glue. (Look online for a homemade recipe, there are TONS of them)
3 A block of styrofoam or some other sturdy foam of choice. Or a box if you can't seem to find any foam around...:x
4) A foam cutter, Rotory tool or knife to shape the foam and to do the touchups with. (Just becareful if useing a knife!)
5) Favorite paint of choice. (If you can't find some fabric in the color you want)
6) Flat Clearcoat to finish the entire project and seal in the glue/paint.
7) Tape (If using a box)
8) Pipe Cleaners (Optional)

:idea:STEPS FOR THE FOAM VERSION OF THE PROJECT::idea:

STEP 1) Make a solid block foam mockup mold of the soft top
STEP 2) Choose a thicker fabric (or add multiple layers if need be) of your color choice for the soft top
STEP 3) Drape it overtop of the foam and put a few coats of paper mache glue on it (There are tons of paper mache glue recipes online)
STEP 4) Let it sit and cure overnight or for 24 hours (for a full cure depending how heavy you put the glue to it), After about 12 hours you will be able to use it for size reference on the body. Just be careful as it will still be flexable and this could cause the layers of fabric to start coming apart.
STEP 5) When fully cured, Use your cutting tool of choice (I like using rotory tools with a cutting wheel on stuff like this.)and cut it to desired look.

:idea:STEPS FOR THE BOX VERSION OF THE PROJECT:idea:
1) Take the box you are using and Tape some Pipe Cleaners to it to resemble the "Roll Bar Look" if you don't have any tubing.
DVC01302.jpg

(I doubled Mine up because they were just a little too thin for my liking and used the 3 bar look)
DVC01301.jpg


2) Lay the Wax Paper over the Pipe Cleaners and Box and Tape it down.
DVC01300.jpg

Looked like this when it was all taped up.
DVC01304.jpg


3) Lay your fabric on top of it and start applying the paper mache paste. I used Olive green for the color choice. Also I would like to point out, If you use the 1 part flour and 5 parts water method for the paste....make sure you don't get in a hurry like I did. You are supposed to boil it for 3 minutes.....I put it on high....yup it burnt to the pan and made a lovely brown color...don't tell the wife;-)
DVC01308.jpg


4) Be sure to use your fingers to smooth out the glue and take the excess off. Also get rid of clumps and allows you to feel how much pressure to put on the pipe cleaners to get them to "dent".
DVC01312.jpg


5) Do all of the fabric the same way.
DVC01314.jpg


6) Let dry for 12 - 24 hours and there you have it.
DVC01319.jpg


:idea:FINAL TOUCH::idea:

When completed the glue will have dried clear and you should be able to see the color of fabric showing through the glue.
1) If everything is exactly how you want it (vibrant color showing through) Just grab a rattle can or some other kind and seal it with a flat clearcoat inside and out to lock in the color and waterproof it. I say flat as opposed to gloss so it still looks like fabric and not shiny plastic.
2) If it's not showing through very clearly (no vibrant color), You can always paint it inside and out to seal in the waterbased glue and then use some flat clearcoat.


TIPS:

When laying down the fabric or paper shreds, Make sure to smooth out any bubbles or clumps that may be hiding underneath. Even if it looks like there are no imperfections it's best to smooth it out anyways as this will help get the glue into the fabric and allow for no weak spot of adhesive. Don't worry about loosing the glue you wipe off, As I sometimes say, If it wipes excess of, it was probably too much anyway.

Use some crisco or some other cooking spray in order for the glue not to stick to the foam or just hollow it out, It really depends on how strict you are for that "real look" on the inside.

If you were to make the foam block and then use some roll bar tubing for support I would say it would be pretty stout. (kinda like a 1:1, how it would have the roll/support bars underneath and then the soft top draped overtop of that.)

When it comes to the windows, You would really just wanna "carve" them into the foam where ever you would want them and in whatever style you would want them. I would suggest carving the windows about 1/4 an inch deep, Just enough so that you will have a dent in the fabric when dried. Then just cut the shape you made the window to be and there you go.

For added stiffness, Try this... Put 1 layer of fabric down, slap the glue on it and be sure to get all air bubbles/clumps out, lay down a layer of newspaper shreds, add glue, then fabric and so on for a total of about 5 layers*, 3 fabric and 2 news paper shreds. That should get it tough for you.



*the more layers you add the deeper you will want to make the dents for windows and other details, they might get filled up if you have too many layers.

I hope this helps everyone out there. Let me know if anyone tries this, I would LOVE to see the end result. Also, If you do try this and have some helpful tips, Feel free to share them here. "thumbsup"

Thanks
-Tim
 
Last edited:
Great tips I will be wanting to do a soft-top for my next project.
Do you pull the hardened Fabric off of the foam?
Or cut out the inside sort of hollowing it out after?
How "roll over" friendly is the area of the soft-top going to be?
Have you tried any way of adding "window" areas?
 
Great tips I will be wanting to do a soft-top for my next project.
Do you pull the hardened Fabric off of the foam?
Or cut out the inside sort of hollowing it out after?
How "roll over" friendly is the area of the soft-top going to be?
Have you tried any way of adding "window" areas?

You could use some crisco or some other cooking spray in order for the glue not to stick to the foam or just hollow it out, It really depends on how strict you are for that "real look" on the inside.

As far as "roll over friendly", I would say it's not going to be very tough. It may take a few rolls here and there but it would really depend on how hard it hit and how thick you made the fabric, IMO.

One thing I am going to edit to add to this project is that if you were to make the foam block and then use some roll bar tubing for support I would say it would be pretty stout. (kinda like a 1:1, how it would have the roll/support bars underneath and then the soft top draped overtop of that.)

When it comes to the windows, You would really just wanna "carve" them into the foam where ever you would want them and in whatever style you would want them. I would suggest carving the windows about 1/4 an inch deep, Just enough so that you will have a dent in the fabric when dried. Then just cut the shape you made the window to be and there you go.

I'm going to try and add to this writeup with some pics but if I get a chance to do this it won't be until sometime this weekend.

Hope all this info helps you out I can't wait to see what you come up with!"thumbsup"

-Tim
 
Not a prob, Be sure to post some pics so we can see how it turns out using this method. Like I said before, I'm gonna try and get some pics of this being done this weekend....That is if my axial kit isn't here by then...lol

Thanks for the kind words
-Tim
 
this is basically the same idea of fiberglass molding, but made easy for people who dont want to buy 5 gallons of resin. good write up.


and "intimadaionrc" your avitar is off my truck window. lol.
 
Seems like the wallpaper paste method would be best for the mache glue. However I am still unsure as to how to "stiffen" it a big to take a beating. I was actually wondering about Fiberglass resin to stiffen it up
 
Seems like the wallpaper paste method would be best for the mache glue. However I am still unsure as to how to "stiffen" it a big to take a beating. I was actually wondering about Fiberglass resin to stiffen it up

I'm pretty sure it would work too but the paper mache glue hardens the fibers when it dries. Does the wallpaper paste do the same, I'm not sure?

As for added stiffness, Try this... Put 1 layer of fabric down, slap the glue on it and be sure to get all air bubbles/clumps out, lay down a layer of newspaper shreds, add glue, then fabric and so on for a total of about 5 layers, 3 fabric and 2 newspaper shreds. That should get it tough for you."thumbsup"

this is basically the same idea of fiberglass molding, but made easy for people who dont want to buy 5 gallons of resin. good write up.

Yup"thumbsup" I just thought about it one day, and living in a smaller house with my daughter and various snakes and other animals in aquariums, I had to find a non-toxic way to get what I wanted done and to do it myself...I'm very picky about details and such, sometimes the best way is your own way...I'm sure you all know what I mean.


-Tim
 
Here's the end product after sitting infront of the oven for 2 - 2 1/2 hours with the door open (Yes...I'm impatient sometimes). Let me know what you guys think. I'm sure I could get it better with more tries...this is my first though.:lol:
DVC01320.jpg

DVC01321.jpg

DVC01322.jpg

DVC01323.jpg

DVC01324.jpg

DVC01325.jpg

DVC01326.jpg

DVC01327.jpg

DVC01328.jpg


I'll try and get some better pics in daylight tomorrow if I have time.

Thanks
-Tim
 
Nice. I still can't decide what kind of top I want I kind of like it open after running it today hehe.
 
I was actually wondering about Fiberglass resin to stiffen it up


ya you could use fiberglass resin with some fabrics... thats how some custom audio shops mount stuff... stretch the material across their pattern.. then put resin on it... i know a shop around here uses fleece.. i think... as far as not wantin to buy 5 gallons of resin... go to an auto parts store and get a quart...
 
Ok, well these are all good ideas but I'm just saying what you could use that you might already have around the house that isn't harmful to kids or pets (other than the paint/finish I suggested). But yeah, fleece works with the resin.

Thanks
-Tim
 
btw for Windows I found that the clear zipped bags blankets/pillows/matress pads come in is the perfect thickness for scale "soft" windows
 
Great info Jaynen, I was trying to think of something to use for windows on my next soft top. This next time around I'm just going to sew one together to see how it looks for me. Thanks!"thumbsup"

-Tim
 
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