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New Bright Jeep Rubicon
- Thread starter Spiike
- Start date
First pictures prototype mockup of winch
switch from the source
winch with brackets
switch installed
Motor mount inside axle broke. Tried fixing it with waterweld.
So i tested under complete weight of the truck and broke the whole axle housing, So i rebuilt it and made a bigger stronger one with a new axle (my last remaining one) I only took pictures of it installed, but its sideways inside the chassis
New Winch installed and ready to go!
The tubing to protect the plastic from getting cut or cutting the rope
the Batteries are on charge in the bedroom, the batteries were close to dead after playing for 4 days in a row, and will test how it handles with full power and a big steap incline
switch from the source
winch with brackets
switch installed
Motor mount inside axle broke. Tried fixing it with waterweld.
So i tested under complete weight of the truck and broke the whole axle housing, So i rebuilt it and made a bigger stronger one with a new axle (my last remaining one) I only took pictures of it installed, but its sideways inside the chassis
New Winch installed and ready to go!
The tubing to protect the plastic from getting cut or cutting the rope
the Batteries are on charge in the bedroom, the batteries were close to dead after playing for 4 days in a row, and will test how it handles with full power and a big steap incline
Here is video of the winch in action, sucks compared to others i've seen. but works good for what i built it for. it only has a 2lbs lift capability, so much is reliant on the actual wheel torque to drive up steep inclines. even at full battery power.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIH2S9nyK_k
another update, i built a switch into the front motor, disabling the front motor, a manual dig control, however after testing on my kitchen floor, the rear tires spin, whle the front wheels drag on the floor, forward or reverse, the front tres don't spin due to the 169:1 gear ratio. meaning it would be harder for the rear tires to push the truck and push the axle that has the 169 to 1 ratio. meanng the rear tire has to spin the front motor 169 times for the axle to move once. which acts as a brake in itself.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIH2S9nyK_k
another update, i built a switch into the front motor, disabling the front motor, a manual dig control, however after testing on my kitchen floor, the rear tires spin, whle the front wheels drag on the floor, forward or reverse, the front tres don't spin due to the 169:1 gear ratio. meaning it would be harder for the rear tires to push the truck and push the axle that has the 169 to 1 ratio. meanng the rear tire has to spin the front motor 169 times for the axle to move once. which acts as a brake in itself.
Playin in the backyard
Videos
Steep incline test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1Y-IQgAT5Q
Walking up the step
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=th37yXSwSQE
I would like to install reverse back up lights, but i tried wiring it to the motor, so that way when you backup the truck the lights come on, but when you drive forward the lights are not on. I made another thread, and had a few replies, anyways, it worked, but when driving forward the lights glow ever so lightly. I need a one way diode or a one way fuse, in which it blocks the positive from going through the negative wire. Any help would be appreciated cause googling it i can't find anything to help me
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301979
Videos
Steep incline test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1Y-IQgAT5Q
Walking up the step
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=th37yXSwSQE
I would like to install reverse back up lights, but i tried wiring it to the motor, so that way when you backup the truck the lights come on, but when you drive forward the lights are not on. I made another thread, and had a few replies, anyways, it worked, but when driving forward the lights glow ever so lightly. I need a one way diode or a one way fuse, in which it blocks the positive from going through the negative wire. Any help would be appreciated cause googling it i can't find anything to help me
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301979
Broke another CV Joint. Heres the 6th one i've made, I think i'm getting better and quicker at molding these cv joints. I found a good rule of thumb about waterweld, keep WD40 Away from it. all types of oils, makes it weaker, and cold cold temperatures, I noticed it doesn't like cold weather, typically anything below -15c
I cut the front axle, skid plated it to protect gears, mostly for more clearance, replaced old front axle undercasing, rebuilt the 4th gear in front. which solved the noise it made (check youtube videos) it grinds gears. Now it doesn't, even tried runnin it up hills and no gear grinding.
I checked out the Source today, and looking for a .1uF ceramic capacitors, and they do not have any. So i'll be looking for local electronic stores for some. Maybe after i get some I can fix noise in the motors which interferes with my radio frequencies, and my backing up lights
I cut the front axle, skid plated it to protect gears, mostly for more clearance, replaced old front axle undercasing, rebuilt the 4th gear in front. which solved the noise it made (check youtube videos) it grinds gears. Now it doesn't, even tried runnin it up hills and no gear grinding.
I checked out the Source today, and looking for a .1uF ceramic capacitors, and they do not have any. So i'll be looking for local electronic stores for some. Maybe after i get some I can fix noise in the motors which interferes with my radio frequencies, and my backing up lights
Update
I took the winch out till i find a higher torque motor to remove unessessary weight, removed spare tire, and maybe wait till i can afford a high torque servo.
I broke the custom waterweld front cv joints several times, tried molding more waterweld cv joints with steel pins, but did not work i think re-creating the 1:1 mixing ratio is difficult when i don't have much left, so I took a spare cv joint, drilled a hole and put steel pins in the cv joint with jb weld to hold it.
now i gotta wait 15 hours for it to finish its dryin process to try it out and see if it holds under the new torque from the 4th gear
need new batteries for the camera, ugh..
I took the winch out till i find a higher torque motor to remove unessessary weight, removed spare tire, and maybe wait till i can afford a high torque servo.
I broke the custom waterweld front cv joints several times, tried molding more waterweld cv joints with steel pins, but did not work i think re-creating the 1:1 mixing ratio is difficult when i don't have much left, so I took a spare cv joint, drilled a hole and put steel pins in the cv joint with jb weld to hold it.
now i gotta wait 15 hours for it to finish its dryin process to try it out and see if it holds under the new torque from the 4th gear
need new batteries for the camera, ugh..
Update:
Today I broke another cv joint, i think its my 7th time i've done this lol I posted an add in the wanted section for custom made cv joints, and i'm going to try getting copper tubing that i can fit on my axles and install a pin to turn my tires, as its been suggested to me and works good.
heres a video testing center of gravity and how much of angle it can climb etc.. in my back yard
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-Ls6oRVoaA
Today I broke another cv joint, i think its my 7th time i've done this lol I posted an add in the wanted section for custom made cv joints, and i'm going to try getting copper tubing that i can fit on my axles and install a pin to turn my tires, as its been suggested to me and works good.
heres a video testing center of gravity and how much of angle it can climb etc.. in my back yard
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-Ls6oRVoaA
Update:
I made a new cv joint with 5/32 7/32 and 3/16 aluminum tubing, cut to length, drilled a hole placed a pin, and gently forced it onto the hex axle.
Finished Product
Had to replace the cv ball joint thing, worn right out
Had to add Character, and test out the tube bending spring kit, and i'm thinking before I buy the brazing flux and solder, I need to build a perfect round circle device with the tube and get sand too
Here is my Model cars and drift car and chevy camaro rc.
I made a new cv joint with 5/32 7/32 and 3/16 aluminum tubing, cut to length, drilled a hole placed a pin, and gently forced it onto the hex axle.
Finished Product
Had to replace the cv ball joint thing, worn right out
Had to add Character, and test out the tube bending spring kit, and i'm thinking before I buy the brazing flux and solder, I need to build a perfect round circle device with the tube and get sand too
Here is my Model cars and drift car and chevy camaro rc.
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big update
took chassis, modified and cut it, made shorter lower and upper links for the 4 link, built a wheelbase jig to hold tires when installing the 4 link, installed spring suspension on new cut chassis, relocated electronics and batteries, recycled some old aluminum peices i have, tested and batteries died... of course!
4 link Mockup without springs installed after i took it out of the jig. and articulation test, I don't want way to much like first chassis gave me
Rear Springs installed
Everything installed!
Cheap Wheel Weights
My Ni-Cd Batteries fully dead gotta charge them, do you think their dead enough? they are 8 cell lol
Articulation maximum is 7" and tried on black for a change!
overall thoughts, I kind of liked the old chassis in a way that the center of gravity was great, now this center of gravity is changed much from the old, but first chassis ever made by me, so testing out different ways to change the truck's playing style, can climb over smaller obstacles like logs in the yard, will take video and post later
took chassis, modified and cut it, made shorter lower and upper links for the 4 link, built a wheelbase jig to hold tires when installing the 4 link, installed spring suspension on new cut chassis, relocated electronics and batteries, recycled some old aluminum peices i have, tested and batteries died... of course!
4 link Mockup without springs installed after i took it out of the jig. and articulation test, I don't want way to much like first chassis gave me
Rear Springs installed
Everything installed!
Cheap Wheel Weights
My Ni-Cd Batteries fully dead gotta charge them, do you think their dead enough? they are 8 cell lol
Articulation maximum is 7" and tried on black for a change!
overall thoughts, I kind of liked the old chassis in a way that the center of gravity was great, now this center of gravity is changed much from the old, but first chassis ever made by me, so testing out different ways to change the truck's playing style, can climb over smaller obstacles like logs in the yard, will take video and post later
I broke my aluminum cv joint, made another one, and broke that one too, made another one, but this time i didn't use the 3/16th aluminum tubing, i used 7/32 and what i've done is filled it with jb weld, put jb weld on the axleand slid it on the axle, cleaned it up, now i have to wait 15 hours for it to cure, so just to be safe i'll wait 24 hours at least to make sure that it will be dry. I don't want to move it until it is done drying so i wait to install it.
will find out tomorow night how well it worked.
will find out tomorow night how well it worked.
update
the above cv joint tore like butter, but I went to the LHS and found the right size aluminum tubing cause he restocked. and found a perfect size, and made 2 CV joints, I did not take pictures because I was not sure whether it would hold up against the torque of the 169 to 1 gear ratio. SO that being said I resolved the cv joints, they hold up.
Another thought though, is that my New bright electronics are going hay wire.
I have replaced the wires, tested different wires, and still have the same problem.
the problem is that when i turn the electronics on, the truck goes forward at full throttle, even when the transmitter is not even on. the truck has 4 different channels and all 4 reproduce the same problem. If i turn the transmitter on and the truck is on but standing still, i hit the throttle either reverse or forward, and the truck goes full throttle and does not stop, meaning i have to manually stop the truck and turn it off with the switch. can't seem to figure it out, so I think that being said, I will be converting this new bright toy to HG electronics one day.
I'll play around with the electronics till i get the chance to upgrade to hobby grade electronics. after i get my scx10 and upgrade the tx-rx i will be using the ae-1 ar-1 ax-1 stock axial 2 channel for my new bright jeep. which will be later on this year...
I think the only problem i'm thinking i might have is the esc might not control both MOA motors on my jeep.
the above cv joint tore like butter, but I went to the LHS and found the right size aluminum tubing cause he restocked. and found a perfect size, and made 2 CV joints, I did not take pictures because I was not sure whether it would hold up against the torque of the 169 to 1 gear ratio. SO that being said I resolved the cv joints, they hold up.
Another thought though, is that my New bright electronics are going hay wire.
I have replaced the wires, tested different wires, and still have the same problem.
the problem is that when i turn the electronics on, the truck goes forward at full throttle, even when the transmitter is not even on. the truck has 4 different channels and all 4 reproduce the same problem. If i turn the transmitter on and the truck is on but standing still, i hit the throttle either reverse or forward, and the truck goes full throttle and does not stop, meaning i have to manually stop the truck and turn it off with the switch. can't seem to figure it out, so I think that being said, I will be converting this new bright toy to HG electronics one day.
I'll play around with the electronics till i get the chance to upgrade to hobby grade electronics. after i get my scx10 and upgrade the tx-rx i will be using the ae-1 ar-1 ax-1 stock axial 2 channel for my new bright jeep. which will be later on this year...
I think the only problem i'm thinking i might have is the esc might not control both MOA motors on my jeep.
Haven't had an update, because my jeep has been shelved since the stock electronics died. So here is the start to my conversion! I found a brand new Futabu Magnum Sport T2PC 2 channel Transmitter and a Fp-r122je 2 channel receiver with the crystals. from a buddy in the classifieds here on the RCCrawler.com
I was just thinking of getting a cheap AE-1 ESC because it powers brushed motors, and should be ok powering my MOA New Bright motors. Either that or I will have a spare for my SCX10 when I get it later on this year..
Can't wait
I love the scx10 my buddy bought one, and i got to play with it a little. but honestly I love my NB just as much till i really break it for good! 
I was just thinking of getting a cheap AE-1 ESC because it powers brushed motors, and should be ok powering my MOA New Bright motors. Either that or I will have a spare for my SCX10 when I get it later on this year..
Can't wait
I love the scx10 my buddy bought one, and i got to play with it a little. but honestly I love my NB just as much till i really break it for good! So I was researching this receiver and transmitter, I didn't realize that the receiver had a input voltage.
http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/2pcka-manual.pdf
Power requirement: 4.8 - 8.4V
if i find a ESC that supports 8 cell (9.6v) Could i use some sort of cheap voltage regulator to lower the voltage? or a resistor? i should probably put this in the electronics, I might just do that if i can't find anything with the search button.
I already own 3x 9.6v 8 cell ni-cd batteries, and do not wish to upgrade till those batteries die. (low on cash)
http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/2pcka-manual.pdf
Power requirement: 4.8 - 8.4V
if i find a ESC that supports 8 cell (9.6v) Could i use some sort of cheap voltage regulator to lower the voltage? or a resistor? i should probably put this in the electronics, I might just do that if i can't find anything with the search button.
I already own 3x 9.6v 8 cell ni-cd batteries, and do not wish to upgrade till those batteries die. (low on cash)
Update, truck is running again, I have the AE-1 Axial receiver, and axial transmitter, the older version not the 2.4ghz version. I am also using the HPI SX-1
I bought 2 bullet connectors to wire the old motors to the axial ESC, soldered it up, wired it up and I'm out playing again.
The only problem I'm having still is that the front axle gears grind when i go in reverse. Should be an easy fix when I figure out how to wiggle the gears the right way so they don't skip in reverse!
I bought 2 bullet connectors to wire the old motors to the axial ESC, soldered it up, wired it up and I'm out playing again.
The only problem I'm having still is that the front axle gears grind when i go in reverse. Should be an easy fix when I figure out how to wiggle the gears the right way so they don't skip in reverse!
The day has finally come, this thread will receive its last update regarding my old new bright toy, bought in december, received for christmas, broken the day after. and dismantled for good.
packaged her all up, hopefully will make a few dollars off of it to a new bright hardcore RC'er or it will be come a graveyard in future scale track build or something LOL
soon i will have a SCX10 build thread.
*edit*
Forgot to add, i stripped the gears in the front axle, and broke the tab off the front motor. after playing with a real SCX10 and then coming back to Newbright. just not the same, got angry, pissed, and had enough of NEWBRIGHT SHIT. LOL
packaged her all up, hopefully will make a few dollars off of it to a new bright hardcore RC'er or it will be come a graveyard in future scale track build or something LOL
soon i will have a SCX10 build thread.
*edit*
Forgot to add, i stripped the gears in the front axle, and broke the tab off the front motor. after playing with a real SCX10 and then coming back to Newbright. just not the same, got angry, pissed, and had enough of NEWBRIGHT SHIT. LOL
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