Yep.
If anyone has one though and needs any parts ... let me know.
I have a few hanging around.
"thumbsup"
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
New Bright Jeep Rubicon
- Thread starter Spiike
- Start date
Yep.
If anyone has one though and needs any parts ... let me know.
I have a few hanging around.
"thumbsup"
Tinker001
Newbie
brainstorm
Ok dont flame me for this but you said the hex shaft is 6mm to a side. I am hoping the ball is not too different in size because i was wondering if a metric hex key would work as a shaft. if the ball is bigger then it may be possible to find a nylon sphere the right size and attach it to the shaft cross drill it then mount a pin in it. I have found that old cd drives from computers have good shaft material inside. Score the shaft just over the length you need with a file and snap it in a vise. clean it up an there ya go. nylon spheres may be a problem but if I remember right a lot of hydraulic valves use them and plumbing supply may have them too. We had to replace a bunch in the farms backhoe one year as the pressure in the system from digging stumps pushed the ball into the valve body. We went to steel no problems since.
Still pondering assembly of the unit for now will get back to you.
Hey is it possible to drill a hole in a ball bearing. If so and if you know someone who can do fine machine work have them turn the end of the hex key shaft to a useable diameter drill the ball bearing insert the hex shaft. Then cross drill through both and insert your pin that engages the cup. the small pin can be locked in with loctite and it holds the axle to the ball. If you cant drill the ball bearing but can find a nylon ball do the same.
Thanks for the jeep picks by the way guys have built some paper models in my time. when i get home I will definitely run those off and use them for a project.
Last idea then I have to sleep, long day and drove to inlaws so im whipped.
Has anyone ever built a crawler with the drive motors located at the ends of the axle. No I am not nuts I have a boatload of 5v motors about the size of a quarter or a bit bigger. they run the tray of your cd reader in your pc in and out. I just thought each wheel direct driven by its own motor might be a trip.
Of course I could be over tired and need sleep have fun.
news flash another free source of brushless motors 12 and possibly 5v Pc fans just be careful cutting them apart and all those old printers and copy machines = gears and sometimes drive chain.
Ok dont flame me for this but you said the hex shaft is 6mm to a side. I am hoping the ball is not too different in size because i was wondering if a metric hex key would work as a shaft. if the ball is bigger then it may be possible to find a nylon sphere the right size and attach it to the shaft cross drill it then mount a pin in it. I have found that old cd drives from computers have good shaft material inside. Score the shaft just over the length you need with a file and snap it in a vise. clean it up an there ya go. nylon spheres may be a problem but if I remember right a lot of hydraulic valves use them and plumbing supply may have them too. We had to replace a bunch in the farms backhoe one year as the pressure in the system from digging stumps pushed the ball into the valve body. We went to steel no problems since.
Still pondering assembly of the unit for now will get back to you.
Hey is it possible to drill a hole in a ball bearing. If so and if you know someone who can do fine machine work have them turn the end of the hex key shaft to a useable diameter drill the ball bearing insert the hex shaft. Then cross drill through both and insert your pin that engages the cup. the small pin can be locked in with loctite and it holds the axle to the ball. If you cant drill the ball bearing but can find a nylon ball do the same.
Thanks for the jeep picks by the way guys have built some paper models in my time. when i get home I will definitely run those off and use them for a project.
Last idea then I have to sleep, long day and drove to inlaws so im whipped.
Has anyone ever built a crawler with the drive motors located at the ends of the axle. No I am not nuts I have a boatload of 5v motors about the size of a quarter or a bit bigger. they run the tray of your cd reader in your pc in and out. I just thought each wheel direct driven by its own motor might be a trip.
Of course I could be over tired and need sleep have fun.
news flash another free source of brushless motors 12 and possibly 5v Pc fans just be careful cutting them apart and all those old printers and copy machines = gears and sometimes drive chain.
Tinker001
Newbie
Found it
I am not crazy really found a way on net to drill ball bearings.
Heat.
Now its going to seem complicated but once done you should be able to build your own CV shafts that are practically indestructible.
Parts:
Steel hex shaft material soft steel if you can get it cheap hex keys maybe.
Ball bearings in the appropriate size Ie the size of your cv ball.
Or nylon or plastic ball of similar diameter I have made cvès for a lego build from Bionicle joints.
Rod stock the same diameter as the drive pin.
thin wall tubing with inside diameter as the outside of the cv cup (for later)
Process (not going into detail)
One: ball bearings are Hard you cant drill them at all. But if you heat them to bright orange or red for a while and let them cool SLOWLY they will soften. you may have to do this with the hex keys too if you donèt find a drillable hex material.
Two: cut your Hex shaft over long ie actual shaft length plus ball diameter plus fudge allowance for fiddling.
Three: on the end where you want to mount the ball round the shaft down but not too small. you will want to be able to cross drill it for your drive pin. Also you will want enough meat still left to remove some in a later step.
Four: take the softened ball bearings to a machine shop and have them drill through them once. Make sure the hole is a smidge smaller than your hex shaft diameter. I would say if you could make a jig in a drill press flatten one side of the ball and drill it. But I dont know if you have the equipment.
Five: you now have a ball with a hole and a shaft with which to fill it. If done right the shaft will not fit but just barely. taper the tip of the round shaft and throw it in the freezer. take your ball bearing and throw it in the fire. let it get really hot but not red hot. put the ball bearing in a vise or have a friend gently hod it in some vise grips not too tight. Centre the cold pin in the hole and tap it home firmly. Then go to the vise close the jaws so the ball sits in the groove but the shaft can poke through drive the shaft down so the rod end pukes out. Let cool and grind and file off the extra rod sticking out.
You now have a steel ball press fit on a hex shaft.
Six: Get out the drill bits cross drill your piece again a shade to small for the drive pin. go throught both the ball and the shaft end. this is why we oversized the round end
Seven: taper the tip of the drive pin freeze it heat the shaft and repeat the insertion process and cool.
The drive pin will lock the shaft to the ball and everything will be tight.
If you want to really freak people out heat the whole assembly bright red and quick cool it in water it will harden up, polish the snot out of it and it will look factory made.
Now to the cup.
Cut a piece of thin wall metal tubing and slide it over the cup. It should just stay on with friction. Cut it off a little longer than the cup and remove.
Widen the pin slot equal to the pin plus twice the wall thickness of your tubing.
Replace the tube, with a razor saw slit the tube down the middle of the pin slot fold the flaps down into the slot and tap a piece of pin stock cross wise into the slots to seat it. carefully dremel the tube to match the cup.
Voila reinforced cup.
Now if you dont want the hassle just drill a hex key cross ways to fit the pin. cut it to lenght drill a plastic or nylon ball and repeat the assembly without heat. you can try to use force to seat the drive pin or loctite it.
All the drive force will be on the steel parts and the ball will just centre the shaft and cup.
got to go wife calling
I am not crazy really found a way on net to drill ball bearings.
Heat.
Now its going to seem complicated but once done you should be able to build your own CV shafts that are practically indestructible.
Parts:
Steel hex shaft material soft steel if you can get it cheap hex keys maybe.
Ball bearings in the appropriate size Ie the size of your cv ball.
Or nylon or plastic ball of similar diameter I have made cvès for a lego build from Bionicle joints.
Rod stock the same diameter as the drive pin.
thin wall tubing with inside diameter as the outside of the cv cup (for later)
Process (not going into detail)
One: ball bearings are Hard you cant drill them at all. But if you heat them to bright orange or red for a while and let them cool SLOWLY they will soften. you may have to do this with the hex keys too if you donèt find a drillable hex material.
Two: cut your Hex shaft over long ie actual shaft length plus ball diameter plus fudge allowance for fiddling.
Three: on the end where you want to mount the ball round the shaft down but not too small. you will want to be able to cross drill it for your drive pin. Also you will want enough meat still left to remove some in a later step.
Four: take the softened ball bearings to a machine shop and have them drill through them once. Make sure the hole is a smidge smaller than your hex shaft diameter. I would say if you could make a jig in a drill press flatten one side of the ball and drill it. But I dont know if you have the equipment.
Five: you now have a ball with a hole and a shaft with which to fill it. If done right the shaft will not fit but just barely. taper the tip of the round shaft and throw it in the freezer. take your ball bearing and throw it in the fire. let it get really hot but not red hot. put the ball bearing in a vise or have a friend gently hod it in some vise grips not too tight. Centre the cold pin in the hole and tap it home firmly. Then go to the vise close the jaws so the ball sits in the groove but the shaft can poke through drive the shaft down so the rod end pukes out. Let cool and grind and file off the extra rod sticking out.
You now have a steel ball press fit on a hex shaft.
Six: Get out the drill bits cross drill your piece again a shade to small for the drive pin. go throught both the ball and the shaft end. this is why we oversized the round end
Seven: taper the tip of the drive pin freeze it heat the shaft and repeat the insertion process and cool.
The drive pin will lock the shaft to the ball and everything will be tight.
If you want to really freak people out heat the whole assembly bright red and quick cool it in water it will harden up, polish the snot out of it and it will look factory made.
Now to the cup.
Cut a piece of thin wall metal tubing and slide it over the cup. It should just stay on with friction. Cut it off a little longer than the cup and remove.
Widen the pin slot equal to the pin plus twice the wall thickness of your tubing.
Replace the tube, with a razor saw slit the tube down the middle of the pin slot fold the flaps down into the slot and tap a piece of pin stock cross wise into the slots to seat it. carefully dremel the tube to match the cup.
Voila reinforced cup.
Now if you dont want the hassle just drill a hex key cross ways to fit the pin. cut it to lenght drill a plastic or nylon ball and repeat the assembly without heat. you can try to use force to seat the drive pin or loctite it.
All the drive force will be on the steel parts and the ball will just centre the shaft and cup.
got to go wife calling
Here is an update, the truck is still running!!!
I had to replace the CV Joint again with new waterweld, molded to perfection!
I had went out and bought some new chain, smaller, more scale size compared to the old chains. Loved 'em. I had to remove the extra 2 batteries to use them, because my rig was so heavy with crap motors. I will use them more when i get my new motors installed.
I started doing preventative work on my truck, before i actually broke the suspension hooks, I will be doing other stuff to it, before i break the plastic axles etc.. here is waterweld magic happening
I Had to modify my body because the suspension was hitting the body. So i replaced the body mounts with galvonized steel rods with wing nuts. I wanted to do the front, but Soon I will be completely removing the chassis from this project.
When i picked the truck up, it dropped the suspension a little lower, so i took some 7/32 aluminum tubing, cut small peices of, and hot glue gunned them to the original blue suspension top caps. Works great! i also found it drooping a little like a real vehicle.
new CV joint
Here is my start to building my own chassis. Making a template
The tools I used and half finished chassis
Chassis compared to truck, looks good but a little flimsy, thinking of building a 12" long 1" wide thick steel bars, 2 of them to make the chassis not as flimsy due to the thickness of the aluminum
Side View
Front of back view. haven't decided.
Bottom view.
I think it is looking good, just not strong enough for my liking, I would bend the crap out of it in 2 minutes i bet, however this is just a test, and prototype, so finding stuff that works with just using tin snips and a dremel cutoff blades etc..
I had to replace the CV Joint again with new waterweld, molded to perfection!
I had went out and bought some new chain, smaller, more scale size compared to the old chains. Loved 'em. I had to remove the extra 2 batteries to use them, because my rig was so heavy with crap motors. I will use them more when i get my new motors installed.
I started doing preventative work on my truck, before i actually broke the suspension hooks, I will be doing other stuff to it, before i break the plastic axles etc.. here is waterweld magic happening
I Had to modify my body because the suspension was hitting the body. So i replaced the body mounts with galvonized steel rods with wing nuts. I wanted to do the front, but Soon I will be completely removing the chassis from this project.
When i picked the truck up, it dropped the suspension a little lower, so i took some 7/32 aluminum tubing, cut small peices of, and hot glue gunned them to the original blue suspension top caps. Works great! i also found it drooping a little like a real vehicle.
new CV joint
Here is my start to building my own chassis. Making a template
The tools I used and half finished chassis
Chassis compared to truck, looks good but a little flimsy, thinking of building a 12" long 1" wide thick steel bars, 2 of them to make the chassis not as flimsy due to the thickness of the aluminum
Side View
Front of back view. haven't decided.
Bottom view.
I think it is looking good, just not strong enough for my liking, I would bend the crap out of it in 2 minutes i bet, however this is just a test, and prototype, so finding stuff that works with just using tin snips and a dremel cutoff blades etc..
Mud Puppy
Rock Crawler
I'll throw some AX10 side plates in with your stuff. Maybe they will be of use for your build.
Thanks a bunch, I hope i can put them to use.
I was thinking of heading to the hardware store and finding some thicker aluminum, and use the dremel cut off blades to cut them to size, 12" thick 1" wide bar to hold it all together.
I just put together shock mounts. will post pictures later
I just need to get to the hobby shop and pick up extra rod ends to build the front 4 link suspension
Mud Puppy
Rock Crawler
use ends iwth metal balls like the traxxas ones, not plastic like axial.
Bought some white, red LEDs and resisters to match and using the LED calculator for RC
http://www.rc-cam.com/led_info.htm
got the LED's all wired up here, putting it together
Rear tail light installed.
Front light
My Mess of wires
Rear lights and switches for main lights and the floor lights
Switches I found in my box of Computer stuff that i used. I don't have fancy 5 channel radios or anything...
Flood Lights rig.
Rear lights working
Front Lights and Flood Lights working! yay!
Got the body on, went for a drive outside, and SNAP!!!! broke the chassis again.. lol so i got a galvonized steel threaded rod, I just need to wait till tommorow for the hobby shop to open so i can get more traxxas rods so that i can put my chassis back together.
http://www.rc-cam.com/led_info.htm
got the LED's all wired up here, putting it together
Rear tail light installed.
Front light
My Mess of wires
Rear lights and switches for main lights and the floor lights
Switches I found in my box of Computer stuff that i used. I don't have fancy 5 channel radios or anything...
Flood Lights rig.
Rear lights working
Front Lights and Flood Lights working! yay!
Got the body on, went for a drive outside, and SNAP!!!! broke the chassis again.. lol so i got a galvonized steel threaded rod, I just need to wait till tommorow for the hobby shop to open so i can get more traxxas rods so that i can put my chassis back together.
Heres an update
I removed everything from chassis
tossed the peice of junk
Pictures of my new chassis i've been working on
Here is a picture of my chassis, I had to install a second bar, and bend it in a L shape to give the aluminum strength, I found that just the thin aluminum would bend under stress, hopefully this resolves that problem.
I measured 3 times, and when i went to put the electronics in, they barely fit!!! but i got it to work good, I just gotta find a good spot for the batteries to mount, and work around where i would like to install the winch setup that i would like to build`
Finally did up the 4th gear for the front drive train, and installed the 280 motors!
Here is a shot of the rear drivetrain undercarriage. with the new mounts for the 4 link suspension. I kept the rear springs in the same position as previous chassis. works good!
Shot of the other side of the rear drivetrain
Here is tommorows project
I actualy ran out of screws and nuts, gotta go buy some more tommorow, drill holes, install them, then cut the threaded rod to a good length, install suspension and its testing time...
I've checked out the stability of this setup, seems good, the chassis is a bit tall and a bit long, if i ever build another one i'll definitally remember to keep it small.
I removed everything from chassis
tossed the peice of junk
Pictures of my new chassis i've been working on
Here is a picture of my chassis, I had to install a second bar, and bend it in a L shape to give the aluminum strength, I found that just the thin aluminum would bend under stress, hopefully this resolves that problem.
I measured 3 times, and when i went to put the electronics in, they barely fit!!! but i got it to work good, I just gotta find a good spot for the batteries to mount, and work around where i would like to install the winch setup that i would like to build`
Finally did up the 4th gear for the front drive train, and installed the 280 motors!
Here is a shot of the rear drivetrain undercarriage. with the new mounts for the 4 link suspension. I kept the rear springs in the same position as previous chassis. works good!
Shot of the other side of the rear drivetrain
Here is tommorows project
I actualy ran out of screws and nuts, gotta go buy some more tommorow, drill holes, install them, then cut the threaded rod to a good length, install suspension and its testing time...
I've checked out the stability of this setup, seems good, the chassis is a bit tall and a bit long, if i ever build another one i'll definitally remember to keep it small.
CrawlinClodKiller
Rock Crawler
This is nice to see. This is where crawling started, somone with an idea using whatever they had to have fun. You didn't need thousands of dollars to buy parts made be other people. I think everyone should read this to help realize what this sport was originally about.
Flexx
Rock Stacker
This is a great thread"thumbsup" Your what the hobby is all about! Using what you have. Keep up the good work. Looks like you built a nice replacement chassis. I'm thinking you need a little scoreboard on your NB Jeep and put a hash mark every time you fix it, and take pride in knowing you fixed it.
i just love tinkering, but low budget to do it with!
I think the chassis is way too big! I don't know what you think, but I think i made a 1/8th scale chassis, and have a 1/10th scale body, and its too high, unfortunetally the body is like 2" too high on the chassis, but theres always a chance to make a new one, better one, stronger, smaller, more compact, more room etc..
the scoreboard is as follows, i've broken this thing over 15 times and i've fixed it every time.
Heres my update, just so you know, click on the picture for high detailed images, feel free to zoom in too for more detail!
Front Drive train 4th gear, works better than rear, this would be 3rd try fitting the gear in properly without it making loud ratchet noises and loud skipping noises like grinding gears!
Here is how I mounted my triple battery in parallel, I wanted to have quick access to change batteries if I needed to, or to get at the electronics when i needed to. As you can see i can remove the body without a screw driver or wrench, just 2 wing nuts, will get 2 more later, i just bend the body over the mounts and wing nut it tight. The batteries slide forward, and the cardboard is there to prevent damage to the batteries, and I didn't want the batteries to be touching the aluminum due to the cold weather here in Canada. Works well the batteries stay warmer than i thought, and trail running in the snow is okay, not quite waterproof though. maybe thats a future update to my truck.
Just finished mounting the front drive axle and 4 link suspension and shocks
Working on my steering, finished it, works great, I had to replace the old servo gears, luckily Mud Puppy and ninetwofiveRC whom have sent me spare parts. I also had some tweaking of the lengths of the arms, but managed to fix it few hours before posting this post, works great now! much better than stock steering, except for the lack of strength which I need to find a servo that will work with this electronics without frying it! i can always take measurements of the volt output from the electronics if somebody would help me determine what servo would work good with the stock electronics (aka don't have cash to replace electronics)
Working LED lights, before i mounted the body properly, you can see here that the body is held on by zap straps.
Playin with it the first time after making the new chassis, you can see it was snowing!
my Monster stickers came in the mail today too!! I was excited and put some on my truck!
Then i made mounts for my body
First outing of my truck, at Polson Park in Vernon BC
Here is a video while i was at polson park again, climbing over rocks in the dark, couldn't tell much in the video, but watch the lights you can see them bouncin around pretty good
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFXeRFlbRvM
Here is a video of my truck getting over this rock at Polson Park here locally, you can hear that I still have work to do on the rear drivetrain, the 4th gear seems to be slipping, moving its bracket and grinding gears. Sucks, Front seems to be working great, and I had problems with the steering while I was there, was turning a little too much to the left, after i brought it home i took the steering rods apart and made them a little smaller, and more to the right, and works great now! can't wait to test it again
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yod3LLbTHu8
Here is the last video, testing my articulation under the trucks own weight, remember the 4th gear in rear axle is slightly slipping and making that ratchet noise!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNXlQMXasoo
SOOO my intial build has been a success, works great, few tweaks to do here and there, few things in mind for future builds, saving up money to buy scx10, when i get money hopefully May, need more aluminum, new Chevy body to play with, or a toyota box i can install with the hilux body, definitally need a toyota box or chevy body with a good size box, I have many plans for future builds, i can't say what yet cause i know people have already done it, done it well, or would steal my ideas on ya.. *zip* mouth is shut!
Would this truck be a superclass crawler? lol
I was also thinking, they make those weights for ships out on sea, when the ship tilts to one side, the weight moves higher up, has anyone actually put this theory to test in a remote control? my truck is top heavy!
Here is a link to all my pictures in one album
http://cid-8db580b03ac77813.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=play&resid=8DB580B03AC77813!1244
Last edited:
42 axle -> 16
42 -> 12
47 -> 12
47 -> 10 (motor)
169.1265625
Many thanks to cobra. I have a final gear ratio of 169 to 1
if i find a 8 tooth pinion for my 280 motors. i could get a 211.4 to 1 ratio. I think thats too much though. my truck drives pretty slow as is! and I think a majour difference would be some better tires, lower CG
I noticed that when driving forward at full speed on flat land, the truck pauses, the LED's are fully functional and not dimm. on pretty much 95% full batteries. going in reverse is okay. and going up any type of hill is okay. but just driving in a straight line at full speed on flat surface has changed... Anyone else familiar with this problem?
42 -> 12
47 -> 12
47 -> 10 (motor)
169.1265625
Many thanks to cobra. I have a final gear ratio of 169 to 1
if i find a 8 tooth pinion for my 280 motors. i could get a 211.4 to 1 ratio. I think thats too much though. my truck drives pretty slow as is! and I think a majour difference would be some better tires, lower CG
I noticed that when driving forward at full speed on flat land, the truck pauses, the LED's are fully functional and not dimm. on pretty much 95% full batteries. going in reverse is okay. and going up any type of hill is okay. but just driving in a straight line at full speed on flat surface has changed... Anyone else familiar with this problem?
Small update.
here i've tooken a concept from another forum for the New bright jeep. giving the axle more clearance over rocks, i've tested this concept out in my yard, and gets caught up less in areas the front axle gets caught up on, was thinking of molding a flatter axle with waterweld, I'm not sure yet.
I am going to cut the axle in the front soon, I'm in a toss up between doing that and building my ford bronco and racing boat 1/24 model, gotta do some painting!
So I found that having the double battery pack up so high in the body's engine compartment, I found I was tipping over lots trying to go down hills, or going on 45 degree angles sideways etc... So after many peices of cardboard later, i found this to be the best area, with the most room available. I had to be a little creative, using 2 peices of aluminum to protect the battery from sticks and stones poking it, i used the other battery concept with the moving aluminum part, it works great, then I realised how I'm going to hold the battery in place, so I just used a zapstrap to hold in place, leaving room for twist and articulation. i tested on table, and the spring doesn't hit the battery pack, and when the twist happens the 1 upper arm moves itself away or closer to the battery pack, so i had to leave a little space in the zap straps. Took it outside and played, and works very well!
here i've tooken a concept from another forum for the New bright jeep. giving the axle more clearance over rocks, i've tested this concept out in my yard, and gets caught up less in areas the front axle gets caught up on, was thinking of molding a flatter axle with waterweld, I'm not sure yet.
I am going to cut the axle in the front soon, I'm in a toss up between doing that and building my ford bronco and racing boat 1/24 model, gotta do some painting!
So I found that having the double battery pack up so high in the body's engine compartment, I found I was tipping over lots trying to go down hills, or going on 45 degree angles sideways etc... So after many peices of cardboard later, i found this to be the best area, with the most room available. I had to be a little creative, using 2 peices of aluminum to protect the battery from sticks and stones poking it, i used the other battery concept with the moving aluminum part, it works great, then I realised how I'm going to hold the battery in place, so I just used a zapstrap to hold in place, leaving room for twist and articulation. i tested on table, and the spring doesn't hit the battery pack, and when the twist happens the 1 upper arm moves itself away or closer to the battery pack, so i had to leave a little space in the zap straps. Took it outside and played, and works very well!
Thanks, lol I know my obsession is getting bad, I need to save money and buy my scx10 soon
