New to RC anything

[snaplink]

As the title states I'm new to the world of RC...well anything really. I've had toy store quality $25 cars that have fake suspension and all that but nothing of real quality. I'm finally going to pick up a real vehicle that I can modify and customize. I've owned 5 jeeps in my life so I'm drawn to the jeep bodies.

Doing some research I've settled on a SCX-10 model and I see multiple jeep kits or already built models and need some guidance.

I think I've settled on this one as I think it's already built and ready to drive?

JEEP RUBICON SCX10 4WDRTR RADIO CONTROLLED CARS & PARTS

or this one

SCX10 KIT RUBICON 4WD1/10 RADIO CONTROLLED CARS & PARTS

which I think is a kit that needs to be built and painted?

Part of me wants to just get one, and start driving immediately and part of me wants to put a kit together and paint a body to match one of my old wranglers. Any recommendation for a new guy? I think with the kit I would also need some components to make it function?

I don't plan on doing any water crossings or anything too hardcore (yet) but driving around in my yard and through the wife's gardens and rocks sounds like a good start.

What direction would the been there done that's recommend?

 

[mikro383]

I've done both but as a newbie assembling the kit will give you the knowledge of what's inside when it comes time for repair, maintenance and modifications, yes the second will require all the electronics and there's many many options, the rtr will still need a battery and charger, the rtr is quite capable even with a cheep NiMH stick pack just mount it in the front, if you get the rtr check all gears, they seem to be poorly greased out of the box, and make sure all screws are right

 

[snaplink]

I've done both but as a newbie assembling the kit will give you the knowledge of what's inside when it comes time for repair, maintenance and modifications, yes the second will require all the electronics and there's many many options, the rtr will still need a battery and charger, the rtr is quite capable even with a cheep NiMH stick pack just mount it in the front, if you get the rtr check all gears, they seem to be poorly greased out of the box, and make sure all screws are right

Cool, I was thinking the same thing about putting it together so I know how things work and interact together. I'll go the kit route.

Do you or anyone know if the fenders in the picture below can be added to this particular kit? I don't know what they're called and have been searching. I love the look of them and would love to be able to add them to my build.

Also, is it safe to assume I can add lights and or a light bar later?

 

[StomperCrawler]

Yes and yes. What's your budget and are you looking more at crawling over rocks or driving on a trail? These things will determine the recommended electronics.

 

[DrDiff952]

Kit and build it. Invaluable knowlege for when it brakes! Besides nobody ever leaves their rig stock!

 

[Tom95YJ]

Go with the kit. They usually come with upgraded metal links for the suspension and steering. You'll learn everything about the truck while assembling it and it's 1/2 of the fun. As for those fender flares they are the flares off of the axial dingo body. You can buy them individually part number ax80040

 

[snaplink]

Yes and yes. What's your budget and are you looking more at crawling over rocks or driving on a trail? These things will determine the recommended electronics.

I'm looking to get into this for around $400 - $450

To start I will just be driving it around my yard which has a couple of small grassy hills. There is a garden that is surrounded by rocks about half the size of the trucks dimensions and gravel. Tame I'm sure to what most do but eventually I might get out to some parks or walking trails and get into some rougher stuff. I think the building part will be fun for me and my kids to tackle together and they will drive it some as well...if they can get the controls out of my hands

Go with the kit. They usually come with upgraded metal links for the suspension and steering. You'll learn everything about the truck while assembling it and it's 1/2 of the fun. As for those fender flares they are the flares off of the axial dingo body. You can buy them individually part number ax80040

awesome, thanks for the part number! "thumbsup"

 

[Shilow]

Nice choice on the rig. I just got my first scale rig also. a rtr deadbolt and it is a tough rig. Make sure you get a good battery for yours. IMHO I think that lipo is the best way to go. They seem to be more reliable to me and last a lot longer than NIMH batteries. RCSuperstore.com has really cheap prices on Traxxas lipo batteries. Also have you checked AMain.com for the RC Kit you want to get, they also have cheap prices on their RCs. Good luck bud and have fun.

 

[Berman]

If you had 5 jeeps then i think it is safe to say that this probably won't be your only rc and you will keep the jeep as your own and buy the kids something for themselves

400-500 is good for an rtr and some extras. Kits come with a couple of extras options and teach you how to wrench it easier but to get up and running will cost you a little more, but you get what electronics you want and the colour you want.

It is a great hobby to get into and the small scale details and making it your own become addictive. Enjoy and all the best with it and don't forget to post progress as you go

 

[snaplink]

If you had 5 jeeps then i think it is safe to say that this probably won't be your only rc and you will keep the jeep as your own and buy the kids something for themselves

400-500 is good for an rtr and some extras. Kits come with a couple of extras options and teach you how to wrench it easier but to get up and running will cost you a little more, but you get what electronics you want and the colour you want.

It is a great hobby to get into and the small scale details and making it your own become addictive. Enjoy and all the best with it and don't forget to post progress as you go

yes I definitely have the Jeep bug, I've had it since I bought my first Wrangler when I was seventeen, a 1989 Wrangler Islander Edition, bright yellow, light bar and I put 33's on it. Loved that Jeep.

I'll warn everyone that mechanics aren't my strong point which is also why I want to learn about these trucks so I'll probably have lots of questions. That said looking at batteries over at amain.com I'm not even sure what I'm looking at other than the fact that they are all batteries haha. What I need for this build I can't even begin to guess.

I'm wondering if buying a jeep already assembled and seeing how I like it or what I would change for my needs and then rolling my own kit for my second vehicle. It's a little more intimidating than I thought now that I'm really looking

 

[Tom95YJ]

Nice my dd is a 89 islander

 

[DadCanyoufix?]

I think a rtr would be more to your liking. These trucks are not terribly difficult to build, especially when you have worked on a 1:1. For 400-500 you could grab an rtr, links and a stronger servo,new wheels/tires or a good lipo battery. Not to mention you can take off the new parts, servo, wheels and tires and sell them for upgrade money.

As for the knowledge of whats gonna break, when you get an rtr, grab a set of tools to go with it, take those axles apart first thing and marine grease them. Same with trans. I would say the difficulty level of doing this is comparable to Legos as your rtr comes with a manual and axial has downloads available as well.

 

[StomperCrawler]

With that budget, an interest in putting it together yourself, and those trekking plans, I'd go with the following if it were me:

From Tower:
$$$$ - discount coupon - Tower Hobbies - Coupon Codes
$330 ($297 after coupon)- Rubicon kit - TowerHobbies.com | Axial 1/10 SCX10 2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Kit or save a boatload of money and instead get the
$220 ($198 after coupon) - Dingo kit on sale through the 24th - TowerHobbies.com | Axial 1/10 SCX10 4WD Kit w/Dingo Body (this is such a great deal, especially since you can use a coupon on it too; add the jeep body of your choice later and make the Dingo body your "basher")
$8 - Soldering iron - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR36&P=ML
$3 - 50wt silicone shock oil - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMZ16&P=ML
$2 - Shock leak preventative - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSF70&P=ML

From HobbyKing's West-Coast USA branch:
$10 x 2 - 3s 2200mah lipo battery - Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack (US Warehouse)
$25 - DC balance multi-battery charger - Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger w/ Accessories (US Warehouse)
$10 - AC power supply for charger - HobbyKing Power Supply 100~240v 5A (USA Warehouse)
$20 - Servo - HK15298B High Voltage Coreless Digital MG/BB Servo 66g / 20kg / 0.16s (USA Warehouse)
$33 - 17.5t Sensored Brushless Motor - Turnigy TrackStar 17.5T Sensored Brushless Motor 2270KV (US Warehouse)
$7 - Hex driver set - Turnigy Long Shaft 4pc Hex driver set (US Warehouse)
$6 - Hex socket driver set - TURNIGY 4pcs hex socket driver set (USA Warehouse)
$4 - XT60 connectors - Nylon XT60 Connectors Male/Female (5 pairs) GENUINE (US Warehouse)
$1 - 5mm heat shrink tube to prevent short-circuits - http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor...at_Shrink_Tube_BLACK_1mtr_USA_warehouse_.html

From eBay - select "US Only" for Item location on the left:
$50 - GT3C transmitter & receiver (includes battery & charger) - I'd recommend a RC3S instead but you'd have to wait for it to come from China
$50 - Quicrun WP-10BL60 ESC - waterproof, brushless & sensored 2-3s lipo-compatible speed controller with drag brake & LVC to protect your lipo
$10 - Hobbywing LED Program Box Card PC2C - for easily programming your ESC
$40 - Rubicon body - when you're ready to paint & detail
$3 - solder

 

[snaplink]

Nice my dd is a 89 islander

I love that blue, nice jeep man!

I think a rtr would be more to your liking. These trucks are not terribly difficult to build, especially when you have worked on a 1:1. For 400-500 you could grab an rtr, links and a stronger servo,new wheels/tires or a good lipo battery. Not to mention you can take off the new parts, servo, wheels and tires and sell them for upgrade money.

As for the knowledge of whats gonna break, when you get an rtr, grab a set of tools to go with it, take those axles apart first thing and marine grease them. Same with trans. I would say the difficulty level of doing this is comparable to Legos as your rtr comes with a manual and axial has downloads available as well.

I didn't think about selling the old parts to recover some upgrade costs, good point.

With that budget, an interest in putting it together yourself, and those trekking plans, I'd go with the following if it were me:

From Tower:
$$$$ - discount coupon - Tower Hobbies - Coupon Codes
$330 ($297 after coupon)- Rubicon kit - TowerHobbies.com | Axial 1/10 SCX10 2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Kit or save a boatload of money and instead get the
$220 ($198 after coupon) - Dingo kit on sale through the 24th - TowerHobbies.com | Axial 1/10 SCX10 4WD Kit w/Dingo Body (this is such a great deal, especially since you can use a coupon on it too; add the jeep body of your choice later and make the Dingo body your "basher")
$8 - Soldering iron - TowerHobbies.com | Hobbico Soldering Iron 60 Watt
$3 - 50wt silicone shock oil - TowerHobbies.com | Associated Silicone Shock Fluid 50 Weight 2 oz
$2 - Shock leak preventative - TowerHobbies.com | Associated Factory Team Green Slime

From HobbyKing's West-Coast USA branch:
$10 x 2 - 3s 2200mah lipo battery - Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack (US Warehouse)
$25 - DC balance multi-battery charger - Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger w/ Accessories (US Warehouse)
$10 - AC power supply for charger - HobbyKing Power Supply 100~240v 5A (USA Warehouse)
$20 - Servo - HK15298B High Voltage Coreless Digital MG/BB Servo 66g / 20kg / 0.16s (USA Warehouse)
$33 - 17.5t Sensored Brushless Motor - Turnigy TrackStar 17.5T Sensored Brushless Motor 2270KV (US Warehouse)
$7 - Hex driver set - Turnigy Long Shaft 4pc Hex driver set (US Warehouse)
$6 - Hex socket driver set - TURNIGY 4pcs hex socket driver set (USA Warehouse)
$4 - XT60 connectors - Nylon XT60 Connectors Male/Female (5 pairs) GENUINE (US Warehouse)
$1 - 5mm heat shrink tube to prevent short-circuits - Turnigy 5mm Heat Shrink Tube - BLACK (1mtr) (USA warehouse)

From eBay - select "US Only" for Item location on the left:
$50 - GT3C transmitter & receiver (includes battery & charger) - I'd recommend a RC3S instead but you'd have to wait for it to come from China
$50 - Quicrun WP-10BL60 ESC - waterproof, brushless & sensored 2-3s lipo-compatible speed controller with drag brake & LVC to protect your lipo
$10 - Hobbywing LED Program Box Card PC2C - for easily programming your ESC
$40 - Rubicon body - when you're ready to paint & detail
$3 - solder

Wow, quite a list you put together. Thanks for taking the time to do so.

Time to school me...

The servo is what actually controls the steering yes?

From my snooping around I think I understand brushless vs brushed motors but I don't know the difference between a 17.5t and say a 21.5t motor, what changes with higher or lower numbers? power?

The Quicrun WP-10BL60 ESC, the ESC is like a real car ECU? and the drag brake is like an engine brake? instead of coasting when you come off the throttle it will engine brake to slow down?

 

[StomperCrawler]

Correct on the servo; 2 points. Higher turn motors indicate more torque and less speed. The esc controls your motor which gives you the ability to speed up or slow down, even reverse; drag brake is the esc telling the motor not to let the wheels turn so you don't go freewheeling down a hill.

 

[snaplink]

Correct on the servo; 2 points. Higher turn motors indicate more torque and less speed. The esc controls your motor which gives you the ability to speed up or slow down, even reverse; drag brake is the esc telling the motor not to let the wheels turn so you don't go freewheeling down a hill.

Thank you.

I know it varies by usage but approximately how long does a battery last once it's charged up? My neighbor has a super cheap rc helicopter that only has 5 minutes of flying time. I understand the size difference in batteries and difference in components but should I expect 20 minutes on a battery or less?

Also, in regards to bodies, is it as simple as taking one off and putting another one on and securing with what looks like cotter pins? The deal on the Dingo is cheaper even after purchasing a JK Unlimited body to paint later

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Well, I'm new to scalers, but not rc so I'll throw my own .02 in

I got the deadbolt rtr, along with a 2s lipo and charger for 389 out the door at my local hobby store.

While I have built kits, and am an engineer as a matter of fact, my logic behind the rtr was to just get into it. I may not like it. My other trucks are nitro or brushless powered.

So, I figured I'd get the truck, run it, and see if I like it. Out of the box, it was a wheelie monster, so I've relocated the battery up front. Now it handles pretty damn well

If I decide I hate it, I can always throw it on Ebay and recoup most of my costs. So far I like it, and since I'm not a hard core crawler, I don't even know what I'm missing by not having metal steering links and suspension links. Right now I'm just enjoying myself and learning what works and what doesn't

My point in this ramble is, while I find building equally fun to driving, I think it's important to just get out there in the first place. Don't worry about what's greatest, it about the journey, for me anyway

 

[460bronco]

I would really suggest that you find a hobby store near you. I don't mean to offend, but its obvious you don't really know much about hobby grade rc. If you find some good people at a hobby store they can help you learn a lot about what's what.

Not knowing how to pick and choose components that work together, or even knowing what some things are, could actually lead to you getting very frustrated when things don't work out the way you wanted. You would lose interest and all that money would go to waste.

I watched a guy pick up a wraith rtr last winter. Something didn't go the way he wanted, so he spent more money on it, so on and so on. Basically he spent too much money on things he didn't really need, to fix the wrong problems. He ended up trading for something beat up worth less than half what he had in his wraith.

Talking to a real person and holding things in your hands, make understanding everything so much easier than trying to make sense of everything you read and see online. Assuming you can find some good people in the hobby store that are willing to help you learn. Some don't care and just want to sell you something. If they're good to you, buy from them and go back for help once in awhile. Just don't take advantage of them by asking questions for hours and never spending money there. Then once you learn what you're doing start saving money online once in awhile. But its still nice to go to the store to play with the goodies an support them at times too.

That being said, I would suggest an rtr for you to start with. You have to start somewhere, and people have had a lot of good things to say about the deadbolt.

 

[snaplink]

Well, I'm new to scalers, but not rc so I'll throw my own .02 in

I got the deadbolt rtr, along with a 2s lipo and charger for 389 out the door at my local hobby store.

While I have built kits, and am an engineer as a matter of fact, my logic behind the rtr was to just get into it. I may not like it. My other trucks are nitro or brushless powered.

So, I figured I'd get the truck, run it, and see if I like it. Out of the box, it was a wheelie monster, so I've relocated the battery up front. Now it handles pretty damn well

If I decide I hate it, I can always throw it on Ebay and recoup most of my costs. So far I like it, and since I'm not a hard core crawler, I don't even know what I'm missing by not having metal steering links and suspension links. Right now I'm just enjoying myself and learning what works and what doesn't

My point in this ramble is, while I find building equally fun to driving, I think it's important to just get out there in the first place. Don't worry about what's greatest, it about the journey, for me anyway

I would really suggest that you find a hobby store near you. I don't mean to offend, but its obvious you don't really know much about hobby grade rc. If you find some good people at a hobby store they can help you learn a lot about what's what.

Not knowing how to pick and choose components that work together, or even knowing what some things are, could actually lead to you getting very frustrated when things don't work out the way you wanted. You would lose interest and all that money would go to waste.

I watched a guy pick up a wraith rtr last winter. Something didn't go the way he wanted, so he spent more money on it, so on and so on. Basically he spent too much money on things he didn't really need, to fix the wrong problems. He ended up trading for something beat up worth less than half what he had in his wraith.

Talking to a real person and holding things in your hands, make understanding everything so much easier than trying to make sense of everything you read and see online. Assuming you can find some good people in the hobby store that are willing to help you learn. Some don't care and just want to sell you something. If they're good to you, buy from them and go back for help once in awhile. Just don't take advantage of them by asking questions for hours and never spending money there. Then once you learn what you're doing start saving money online once in awhile. But its still nice to go to the store to play with the goodies an support them at times too.

That being said, I would suggest an rtr for you to start with. You have to start somewhere, and people have had a lot of good things to say about the deadbolt.

These posts are exactly why I decided to find a forum dedicated to this stuff. I definitely don't know anything about hobby grade RC. I think I've been trying to research and drink from the fire hose before pulling the trigger on parts trying to build the ultimate machine when I haven't even turned one on and drove across a flat lawn yet alone any kind of terrain that would require upgraded parts. Thanks for bringing me back down to earth "thumbsup"

Checking out my local hobby stores website they have an Deadbolt RTR for $299. I'm going to go check it out and ask some questions. Right now I just want to drive one around and have some fun, once I get a taste of how it runs I can worry about upgrades and whatever else I think it needs or how I want it to look.

Will a JK Unlimited body fit on this chassis? If so I will pick one up and while I drive the deadbolt body around and have fun I can paint and build the Jeep body how I want it.

 

[DadCanyoufix?]

With 2 2200mah 3s lipos you should get about an hour+ run time. As fun as brushless is, for your first hobby grade rc, going with stock rtr electronics and upgrading over time will probably teach you more about your rig. If you go buy a kit and stuff tons of upgrades in it before you have even run one, you will never know what you could be missing with a brushed set up.

The Newbie section also has many posts about the 101's of RC crawlers! We all started somewhere, wish I would have started there!