• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

NIRC. Chit Chat

Chris.. I'm going through the same super short driveshaft issue right now. I was goong to cut & weld an MIP. We could go halves on a set if you like.

It does look like your motor could go forward more. Lets see a better picture from the top. My motor sits right next to the servo and I planned on fabbing a little heat shield.
 
Die-Laughing said:
Chris.. I'm going through the same super short driveshaft issue right now. I was goong to cut & weld an MIP. We could go halves on a set if you like.

It does look like your motor could go forward more. Lets see a better picture from the top. My motor sits right next to the servo and I planned on fabbing a little heat shield.
Click to expand...

IMAG0174.jpg


From the other side...

IMAG0177.jpg


Can't really get it much further forward, maybe 3 or 4mm, at most. Bit worried with it being close to the servo as is.

Also have hood clearance issues. If I go forward more and tilt it up enough to get to clear the corner of the servo, then I would need to cut out the hood and put scoop in; which isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Yeah, we could do that; that would be cool. I was scrounging around and thought I had another set, but I guess I don't. I'm going to work on it a bit more today, and I'll bring it tomorrow and we can look at it and all.
 
Last edited:
Oh yea.. I see now. I have mine mounted sideways like, bolted to the frame rail so it fits better in my application. My driveshaft has to be really short too but, it doesnt have to extend so, thats good. It can be welded solid.
I'll order the MIP's.
 
Yeah but, I'm running TSS frame rails and I made a special bracket to mount it sideways. It would be a little more involved to mount it sideways on SCX rails. You can see what I'm talking about in my build thread. I wouldn't worry about the short driveshaft though.
 
I don't know if this will work any better or not but you might consider the traxxas cups and dog bone style shaft. It may be easier to shorten/weld. Just a thought.

IMG_3440.jpg
 
JHTreyIII said:
I don't know if this will work any better or not but you might consider the traxxas cups and dog bone style shaft. It may be easier to shorten/weld. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Not a bad idea trey.

Too bad the SCX10 rails don't quite allow for the same type of mounting as you have there, that would be nice.

Die-Laughing said:
Yeah but, I'm running TSS frame rails and I made a special bracket to mount it sideways. It would be a little more involved to mount it sideways on SCX rails. You can see what I'm talking about in my build thread. I wouldn't worry about the short driveshaft though.
Click to expand...

I dunno... think I can just cut up an aluminum plate and bolt it to the front metal crossmember and tie it to the winch mount I had to build. Then just hang it there, should allow more room.
 
They're not that different. You'd have to shorten the shaft significantly. The reason I thought it would be easier is because it allows the sliding movement at each cup instead of one shaft sliding over another. Seems like welding this shaft would be a lot easier than an MIP because you could do it at the center and not worry about the splines being messed up with a weld. Just a thought though, I don't have yours in front of me.
 
Also Trey, in a transmission to transfercase application.. The shaft doesnt need to slide. It can be a solid shaft, its not going to need to move in or out. It'll just be a little different installing/uninstalling it.
 
In probably both mine and chris's application, the shaft will be so short that its not going to have any shafts at all. It'll just look like two big fat balls welded together. Wait, that sounds gay. But yeah, theres not going to be any shafts left. I should be able to blend it in so it looks nice but, its going to look and BE super beefy and large diameter.
 
Right but the fact that it slides also allows for error in the length of the shaft when you weld it. But so does the set screw on an MIP. Just thinking out loud.
 
Die-Laughing said:
In probably both mine and chris's application, the shaft will be so short that its not going to have any shafts at all. It'll just look like two big fat balls welded together. Wait, that sounds gay. But yeah, theres not going to be any shafts left. I should be able to blend it in so it looks nice but, its going to look and BE super beefy and large diameter.
Click to expand...

No welding balls together! Thats just not right!
 
Die-Laughing said:
In probably both mine and chris's application, the shaft will be so short that its not going to have any shafts at all. It'll just look like two big fat balls welded together. Wait, that sounds gay. But yeah, theres not going to be any shafts left. I should be able to blend it in so it looks nice but, its going to look and BE super beefy and large diameter.
Click to expand...

for my new intermediate shaft i had a board member spin me a little stainless tube that fits mip ends. looks pretty easy to do with the right tools.

180ea9b0-05c9-e7bc.jpg


i had a cut and brazed rc4wd punisher shaft in it up to now, it was getting very sloppy at the universal pins tho.

i also have a couple emaxx shortend shafts as backups. dont think ill need to worry since i got the new setup.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top