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RS4 pinion and ring gear set-up...

chris_dishmon

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
401
Location
Cincinnati
so i went ahead and ordered some RS4 gears for the wife's wheely king.

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i got the HPI stretch kit on it already and i'm wondering what i need to finish the RS4 gear swap. is the underlying problem the pinion shaft size? what do i need to replace to make this work? pinion shaft? switch out the driveshaft yolks?
 
THis is the part you need. HPI82020"thumbsup" its for the E Savage and has the 5mm shaft. This will also work for Axial axles so you dont have to drill the hole yourself
 

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I just put those on mine on Sunday, accept mine where the hardened ones. The only thing I had to do was shave the back of the yolk so it wouldn't rub the bearing. I'll take a look when I get home and see if they are the same. One thing I do remember is that it is easier to put the yolk on whith the axle case apart so you can push on the pinion and then put the yolk on. Hope this helps.
 
Oh I don't know. Mine are the heavy duty gears, maybe they are different. All I did was shorten the yolk on the axle side because it was rubbing the bearings and binding real bad. What shafts are you using? I'm using traxxas heavy duty I think.
 

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hmmm....according to a PM i got, i'm guessing the ones i got were aluminum. :-( looks like there's more than one way to skin a cat in this adventure....

RS4 gears = direct swap(pinion shaft size the same)

E-savage gears = need pinion shaft and drive yolk(pinion shaft is 5mm on the pinion side and 6mm on driveshaft side)

Axial gears = supposedly a direct swap like the RS4 gears(but are they hardened? aluminum?
 
THis is the part you need. HPI82020"thumbsup" its for the E Savage and has the 5mm shaft. This will also work for Axial axles so you dont have to drill the hole yourself

ahhh, if you note, i said i got the RS4 gear set. this pinion shaft is only needed if i get the E-savage gears. at this point imma fix her truck with the RS4 gears and i'm at a toss up between upgrading later with the E-savage and the Axial gears. which are stronger is my question? if they are both hardened and about the same strength the axial would be a better bet because i won't hafta shell out more money for a pinion shaft and drive yolk but if the E-savage gears are much stronger than the axial's i'd rather do that.
 
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I installed the RS4 (aluminium) set without complications, I am told that a shim or two would help to tighten the mesh and aid in the prevention of stripping the gears.
 
Ive tried all above mentioned gears. the only ones worth a crap are the e-sav i used the stock shaft with them and just just beveled the pinion just enough to slide the eclip in, super tight fit if done right but they are the only set that holds up to my 5700 MM 3S lipo the hardened rs4 gears were very nice but had wayy to much slop no matter how much shimming, the pinion is about half the length of the stock. hope that helped
 
Ive tried all above mentioned gears. the only ones worth a crap are the e-sav i used the stock shaft with them and just just beveled the pinion just enough to slide the eclip in, super tight fit if done right but they are the only set that holds up to my 5700 MM 3S lipo the hardened rs4 gears were very nice but had wayy to much slop no matter how much shimming, the pinion is about half the length of the stock. hope that helped

are they stock E-savage gears or hardened? anyone else with E-savage gears care to comment on install and fitment?
 
Installing the hardened WK gears as we speak, the new hardened pinion sits kind of on top of the bearing, doesn't slide in exactly like the stock one? I am sorry if I am not explaining it well. I am using t-maxx shafts (as far as I can remember, it's been a while LOL). The new pinion doesn't have flat spots like the stock one, so I drilled out the inside of the yolk on the driveshaft? I am just kind of guessing as to what is going to work here.
 
Axial gears don't fit. And if they do, please make a write up on how you got them too work.

I just bought stock replacement ones, they were like 3.99 each. The biggest thing with these diffs is that you REALLY need to run bolts through the case where the screws are. The casing ends up flexing to much and taking out gear sets. Just a little bit of flex can cause failure.

I also run wd40 for gear oil inside the diff. Once I had it all back together and buttoned up tight and just dumped some down the shaft holes until the r/p spun very nice. Has worked great!! "thumbsup" With that much friction, oil is a must IMHO.
 
Axial gears don't fit. And if they do, please make a write up on how you got them too work.

I just bought stock replacement ones, they were like 3.99 each. The biggest thing with these diffs is that you REALLY need to run bolts through the case where the screws are. The casing ends up flexing to much and taking out gear sets. Just a little bit of flex can cause failure.

interesting as others said they would. i also noticed the lockers are also similar. i wonder if you're not installing them right or if others are passing bad info, which is what i'm trying to weed out here.

also, good idea about the bolts, that does sound like it would be a problem.
 
I've got WK gears in the back of my Axial. Actually, it's a HD Axial 38T, and WK 13T. I've also got RS4 HS gears (36/14 - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJYM3&P=7) in the front of my Axial.

Soon, I'll try the E-Savage gears in back, as they seem to be a cheap steel gear alternative to crappy pot metal, or expensive machined steel HD Axials.

So I have all kinds of gears in mine. Granted it's an Axial, but I don't see why they wouldn't work in a WK?
 
Axial gears don't fit. And if they do, please make a write up on how you got them too work.

I just bought stock replacement ones, they were like 3.99 each. The biggest thing with these diffs is that you REALLY need to run bolts through the case where the screws are. The casing ends up flexing to much and taking out gear sets. Just a little bit of flex can cause failure.

I also run wd40 for gear oil inside the diff. Once I had it all back together and buttoned up tight and just dumped some down the shaft holes until the r/p spun very nice. Has worked great!! "thumbsup" With that much friction, oil is a must IMHO.

what axial gears did you use??

I can do a write up.

unbolt striped gear bolt up new one done...
 
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