• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

SCX10 Honcho mods

This week I turned Honcho into Silverado.
I used Pro Line 2007 Chevy Silverado body (3230-00) and Dingo fender flares (AX80040). I cut front flares for better fit.
Painted with Pactra Metallic Green spray paint (RC266) followed by Tamiya Gun Metal {TS-38}. Pattern is done with Parma PSE Inca Design mask (PAR10813).

Here are some pictures.
Already tried the car on rocks Sat morning and got few scratches.

silverado_1.JPG


silverado_2.JPG


I put Dingo rear bumper (AX80039B). The body is too long so I had to extend bumper mounts with Wraith tie rod and set screws.

rear_bumper.JPG


rear_bumper2.JPG


Have no lights. I am working on it.
 
I was considering using the Wraith shocks in a droop set-up. How are you finding the shocks?
 
I like Wraith shocks. It is only my opinion, I don't have other brands to compare.
Good thing I noticed is coil springs are shorter then shock travel. You can move preload ring all the way up to allow free down travel.
Main problems are caused by lift (+10mm to stock): drive shaft binding and tipping over. First can be solved with transmission drop and/or clocking axles. For second there is nothing you can do IMO. There are solutions to lower center of gravity (battery mount, weights in wheels etc), but the fact is low rig is more stable then lifted.
 
Tried on Axial high steering knuckles (AX30526). Realized they don't improve steering without universal joints.

Here is high steering knuckle vs stock

knuckles1.JPG


knuckles2.JPG


On the axle

knuckles3.JPG


I put wider Traxxas hubs because I've seen a lot of discussion about rubbing tires when doing high steering. That is true probably about VP knuckles. But with Axial there is no rubbing issue.

knuckles4.JPG


knuckles5.JPG


This is left wheel on stock hub.

Bumped in to tie rod problem. Will have to bend it and extend it. Any suggestions for low cost/no cost fix?
 
AX10 universal set (AX30464) arrived. Time to improve steering.

After assembling I needed to adjust tie rod length. To align steering I used parallel pieces of wood.

Steer_links1.JPG


I had Wraith steering rod ends and 106 mm SCX10 steering link. To bend it I picked Pittsburgh tubing bender (94571). Very nice tool for 10$. Unlike other benders I saw in stores this one allows you to bend short tubes.

bender.JPG

Extended drag link with spacers and put it together.

steer_links2.JPG


Not the best bending job, but it works)
Steering angle improved.

And a new Gmade RH03 wheel nuts. Look good.

Gmade_hubs.JPG
 
When I put my Axial high steer knuckles and chubs on I didn't align the wheels parallel with each other. By doing that one tire will push and the other will pull due to not turning the same angle as the other. At least that was how it worked out on mine. I know have mine set at a slight toe out so when turning full left or right both wheels are at the same angle. I get really got steering angles doing that, way better then stock. I am saving up for a set of VP axles to help with a little more though.

Truck looks good, like how the flares look on it.
 
Wheels don't have to turn on the same angle. Example is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry">Ackermann steering geometry</a>.
Aligment is primarily needed to parallel wheels while moving forward.

I don't think VP axles really help with steering or other performance. They look cool and tough. But very pricey.
 
Went crawling this Sat in Leon Creek (San Antonio, TX).
Good spot.

Show off shot

rock.JPG


20 minutes and I broke rear drive shaft(( RC4WD nylon punisher (Part Number Z-S0582). It twisted and u-joint popped out. I put it back but it kept doing that. So RC4WD nylon shafts are no-no.

rc4wd_shaft1.JPG


rc4wd_shaft2.JPG


Luckily experienced crawlers always have spare parts. Thanks to Griff I was able to fix my rig right there.

traxxas_shaft.JPG


I believe it is E-Maxx heavy drive shaft (#4951X) like in <a href="http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/crawler-innovations/393119-scx-ax-10-complete-driveshaft-upgrade-kit-c-i.html">crawler innovations drive shaft upgrade thread</a>. Highly recommended "thumbsup"
 
I heard MIPs are bad at angles and cause wobbling (my SCX10 is lifted +10 mm).
And the price. MIPs are $55 vs ~$17 for Traxxas heavy duty. I'd rather go with broken shaft then gears or else.
 
Last edited:
Chances are if a rig is set up past the usable driveline angle of the workable range of mip's, it's going to eat up any inferior driveshaft at some point. A durable rig is more fun than a planned weak point, especially during an event "thumbsup"
 
This week I turned Honcho into Silverado.
I used Pro Line 2007 Chevy Silverado body (3230-00) and Dingo fender flares (AX80040). I cut front flares for better fit.
Painted with Pactra Metallic Green spray paint (RC266) followed by Tamiya Gun Metal {TS-38}. Pattern is done with Parma PSE Inca Design mask (PAR10813).

Here are some pictures.
Already tried the car on rocks Sat morning and got few scratches.

silverado_1.JPG


silverado_2.JPG


I put Dingo rear bumper (AX80039B). The body is too long so I had to extend bumper mounts with Wraith tie rod and set screws.

rear_bumper.JPG


rear_bumper2.JPG


Have no lights. I am working on it.
There was more then a few scrapes on it ;-)
 
did the shocks make a majior diff on handeling i have thought about doing this change my self this is the frist i seen on this as am the only honcho runner in the group but do run a modded wraith and the shocks are killer great build and detail info i appriciate it i think the skids will prove their worth in the long run great job
 
I already wrote my thoughts about <a href="http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/434217-scx10-honcho-mods-2.html#post4268131">Wraith shocks on SCX10</a> in this thread.
Only thing I can add is I really noticed improvement in climbing stairs and borders. But due to lift if car tips aside I can not ecover it applying throttle.
 
Received <a href="http://www.topcad.com.hk/product_info.php?products_id=2076">Topcad SQ 7S wheels</a> (22468bk) last week. I wanted silver but barely could find black. Out of stock everywhere. Here is how they look.

SQ7S_1.JPG


I like it.
1 breathing hole in rim and 1 in weight ring.

SQ7S_2.JPG


From the back

SQ7S_3.JPG


And hub cover

SQ7S_4.JPG


I measured them like in thread I found on <a href="http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/tires-wheels/29753-wheel-offset-chart-blitz-sc10-slash.html">RCShortHouse forum</a> to compare with Axial beadlocks.

Axial 1.9 beadlock wheel
width 26 mm
distance from hex mating plane to rim inner plane ~13 mm
calculated offset ~0 mm

Topcad SQ 7S 1.9 high mass wheel
width 26 mm
distance from hex mating plane to rim inner plane ~11 mm
calculated offset ~2 mm

Overall topcads have same size as axials, maybe bigger offset (=> wider track) and deeper hex hole.
The main advantage they are HEAVY so no need to add weights :razz:

full wheel mass 125 g
alloy rim alone 50 g
weight ring 75g


RC4WD tires in X2 SS compound are available again so I ordered set of Irok tires immediately because I missed them last time. As I received and opened the package they are super sticky and smelly.
Now I have 3 sets of wheels and tires so we can enjoy another 1.9 tire comparison pic.

Wheels1.JPG


Proline Super Swamper TSL - Axial Ripsaw - RC4WD Interco Irok

Wheels2.JPG


As I measured wheels diameters TSLs and Ripsaws are bit smaller then 4.3" (=110 mm). Iroks are exactly 4.64".

wheel_tsl.JPG


Diameters

Axial Ripsaw 108 mm
Proline Super Swamper TSL 106 mm
RC4WD Interco Irok 118 mm

Looking forward to try new wheels this weekend.
 
Re: SCX10 Honcho mods (Chevy Silverado)

Finally added some lights to the body. Got 6 LED kit as free item with order from asiatees. White and blue went front and red rear.

Lights1.JPG


Lights2.JPG


Front axial LEDs went out :sad: Don't know what happened to them, I did not plug in any lights since switched to Silverado body. Rear axial LEDs are OK.
 
Last edited:
Steel shaft from China came today. <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/140930936897?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649">eBay link</a>

Very heavy, thicker than I expected. Poor quality. Some rust on stainless steel already. Yokes move hard. And the worst thing they are shorter then listed, 104 - 140 mm as I measured :x

china_shaft_1.JPG


china_shaft_2.JPG


china_shaft_4.JPG


china_shaft_3.JPG


Returning them right away. Going to wait till Axial WB8 shaft in front fail (if it will fail) and get Crawler Innovations long transmission output to use Traxxas heavy duty shafts on both ends.
 
Last edited:
Links, spacers and rod ends are all from <a href="http://store.rc4wd.com/M3-Short-Bent-Plastic-Rod-End-20x_p_1750.html">RC4WD store</a>. Available in 17, 21 and 24 mm sizes.

At the same time I broke second RC4WD nylon drive shaft I also broke this plastic rod end. Want to use aluminum rod ends in lower links now.
 
Back
Top