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SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)

Sounds like wrong EP. I finally set my servo at 1:00 when centered, no sub trim used, this is freewheel. My EP are set at 30/70 and I have full engagement at both ends , no clicking. I use the 2P sw and lock to 4w perfectly


Hang up and Drive

So you assign one switch to operate the dig servo as 2P (4WD and rear lock) and then setup a second switch as 3P to shift into 3 wheel or another 2P to go from 4WD to 2WD?

Interesting. I'll have to try that out and play more with my EPs / Nuetral position. This is all new to me with a dig but the principle is the same for setting EPs. Thanks, I'll play around and see if I can get it to perform a bit better.
 
So you assign one switch to operate the dig servo as 2P (4WD and rear lock) and then setup a second switch as 3P to shift into 3 wheel or another 2P to go from 4WD to 2WD?

Interesting. I'll have to try that out and play more with my EPs / Nuetral position. This is all new to me with a dig but the principle is the same for setting EPs. Thanks, I'll play around and see if I can get it to perform a bit better.


Yes. Watch the verrrrry end, Josh sets it up that way. (26:45)

https://youtu.be/3Vgw4jpUqk4

Hang up and Drive
 
Yes. Watch the verrrrry end, Josh sets it up that way. (26:45)

https://youtu.be/3Vgw4jpUqk4

Hang up and Drive

Yes I did watch that part and I just watched it again. I am not able to find that sweet spot for the neutral position. If I am in 2WD and go up a steep incline it won't go obviously. Now there is a load on the transmission and simply going back to 4WD (not moving the servo back into dig position at all) the rear actually ends up locking up. I have to move the servo to dig position then to 4WD to get that rear to unlock. This does not make sense to me. I then tried adjusting the neutral position to be further forward towards the 4WD position but I still encountered the same.

With all of that being said. For me personally, I do not get any real benefit from 2WD that I can see to worry about it. I was more tinkering to see that I could setup and get the 3P to work. It does but just not under load for me. I'll probably just stick with the 2P as that works flawlessly for me even under load.
 
Yes I did watch that part and I just watched it again. I am not able to find that sweet spot for the neutral position. If I am in 2WD and go up a steep incline it won't go obviously. Now there is a load on the transmission and simply going back to 4WD (not moving the servo back into dig position at all) the rear actually ends up locking up. I have to move the servo to dig position then to 4WD to get that rear to unlock. This does not make sense to me. I then tried adjusting the neutral position to be further forward towards the 4WD position but I still encountered the same.

Any luck? I struggled with mine and was able to get it to work reliably in all three positions after watching Harley's video.
 
Any luck? I struggled with mine and was able to get it to work reliably in all three positions after watching Harley's video.

No luck as honestly the free wheel did not do anything for me and my style of driving. I could not get it to work reliably and since I did not find any use for it I just set it to a 2P switch and that works great for me! :mrgreen:
 
Question = Spring pre-load

I finished reading this entire thread after I built my car and fortunately found many of the issues mentioned here on Youtube build and review videos.

Unfortunately, I did crush 1 e-clip while assembling the shocks, so my first run was with rubber bands holding up the right rear axle. On the plus side, I now have 9 spares after ordering a set from Horizon. I did manage to get the springs reversed (Red-F, Gr-R), thanks to Harley, since there is no mention of which colors go where in the manual. Aside from that, no real issues during the build.

Anyway, to my question. How do you determine the correct pre-load on the springs? All the way up, down, halfway.
 
Re: Question = Spring pre-load

How do you determine the correct pre-load on the springs? All the way up, down, halfway.

It really is a matter of personal preference. I like to have a 40% droop setup, meaning with a battery in and the body on, I want the shocks to be compressed 40% of their available travel while sitting level. It lets the suspension work with some rebound but still allows for 60% uptravel. Sometimes one shock needs to be adjusted harder to compensate for torque twist if that presents, but that seems to be a good starting point. Adjust to your driving style and chosen terrain once in the wild.

These springs were fairly soft so I had mine adjusted almost halfway down the tube to achieve the above and sit level without the Carolina squat.
 
Re: Question = Spring pre-load

It really is a matter of personal preference. I like to have a 40% droop setup, meaning with a battery in and the body on, I want the shocks to be compressed 40% of their available travel while sitting level. It lets the suspension work with some rebound but still allows for 60% uptravel. Sometimes one shock needs to be adjusted harder to compensate for torque twist if that presents, but that seems to be a good starting point. Adjust to your driving style and chosen terrain once in the wild.

These springs were fairly soft so I had mine adjusted almost halfway down the tube to achieve the above and sit level without the Carolina squat.

Thank you.
 
Here is where I put the .2mm shims

I did notice a flat edge and a semi-beveled edge on the gears. I didn't have to put any shims at all. I pointed the beveled part away from the trans case to the inner gears. I wonder if that is the issue because as you know there isn't anything in the builder manual that states that. "thumbsup"
 
When building, take note of the transmission options to limit 2W-4W shifting and to enable DIG. There are little plastic tubes (washers), these spacers will stop the movement of the shifters. See photos:
"thumbsup""thumbsup"

greyfoxvt-106171-albums4611-67923.png



greyfoxvt-106171-albums4611-67924.png
 
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Shock mounting positions

Pardon my stupidity but I'm going over the manual before receiving my kit I came across something I'd like to clarify...

Reference Images to the stock manual: https://imgur.com/a/FmSEqrh

On page 34 for the front bottom mount shows the shock to be installed on the inner section of axle while on page 42 (not as clear) it shows it's mounted on the outter secion.

Same for rear (page 35) it shows to mount on inner section on axle but on page 37, it shows it's installed on the outter.

Where does it actually want me to install it? Again, I don't have the kit yet (stupid backorder) but just wanted to do a once-over with the manual...

Thanks, guys!
 
Re: Shock mounting positions

Pardon my stupidity but I'm going over the manual before receiving my kit I came across something I'd like to clarify...

Reference Images to the stock manual: https://imgur.com/a/FmSEqrh

On page 34 for the front bottom mount shows the shock to be installed on the inner section of axle while on page 42 (not as clear) it shows it's mounted on the outter secion.

Same for rear (page 35) it shows to mount on inner section on axle but on page 37, it shows it's installed on the outter.

Where does it actually want me to install it? Again, I don't have the kit yet (stupid backorder) but just wanted to do a once-over with the manual...

Thanks, guys!
That's where I put mine, on the outside..Inboard I believe the shocks would bind.
 
Thanks guys, that's what I was figuring. I've seen enough of these crawler kits to notice that but just wanted to be sure! Never would I have thought I'd scrutinize a manual...hahah!
 
Re: Shock mounting positions

That's where I put mine, on the outside..Inboard I believe the shocks would bind.

I built mine to the manual positions at first (shocks inside, links outside). The front tires hit the links during steering, so i read through here and realized i had to swap them.
 
Rich Trujillo and others,
So what’s the purpose of using the composite material for the shock mounts? IMO the plastic would be as good, pat least you can thread it with out tapping the hole. Tapping the hole removes more material and becomes weak when tightening the shock mounts.
 
mikemcE I agree that the material is stronger, but when it’s stripped out like the plastic it’s no better. I guess when that happens you mix up some epoxy, fill the hole drill and retap.8)
 
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