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Side to side rear axle play

Still interested if other Beef Tube users have this issue. If not, I'll buy another set of shafts and grind down again using a different method or something.

I have the same rubbing issue, not on a bomber but a yeti. I nearly wore thru a pair of VP lockouts before I noticed (silver anno). I switched to the Axial wide kit and same problem. And I was careful to leave about 1mm of the lip on the axle shafts when I ground them down for the beef tubes. Its almost like the shafts are a couple mm too short. I run a Blue Monkey spool fwiw. Hope to find a solution for this...
 
Sounds like it's definitely a result of turning down the inner lip to clear the Beef tubes. Your right that lip seats against the spool/ring gear to limit movement inwards.

Could you fit an extra bearing in the end of the housing tube (same way as for front axle) & put a tube spacer over the axle, could be plastic or alloy.
You may have to slit the tube at the bearing end & pinch it closed slightly to fit behind the lip on the alxe.
This would keep the axle from sliding in from the outer bearing.

That would be a solid fix and stronger to boot since you'd have a pair of bearings to support the shaft. Well it would if the whole axle tang was machined down to the same 4mm diameter as the rest of the axle shaft and a 10x4x4 bearing was used. In this instance it would only serve as a stop to hold the axle shaft out towards the end of the housing.
 
Isn't the bearing supposed to go on the inside of the housing?

In that first pic where you're holding the lockout over the axle. The bearing is shown on the outside of the lip. The bearing goes in first and slides into the axle housing. Then the shaft, then the lockout. The bearing should then stop it from sliding in to far.

Edit: nevermind I forgot about the second bearing. [emoji5]

The ONLY off the shelf axle configuration with a 2nd bearing is using the Axial wide axle kit for the Yeti AX31290
http://docs.axialracing.com/Instruc...01_-_AR60_OCP_Full_Width_Axle_Adpater_Set.pdf
No regular AR60 rear housing has a bearing in the end of the axle tube, only the outer bearing captured between the step on the shaft & the lock-out.
Even the SSD wide axle kit still only has the single outer bearing.

I'm surprised someone hasn't made a "regular" width AR60 axle set with the dual bearing seats on it like the "wide" axle has.

The couple of axles I've done with Beef tubes work fine if you take off only just barely enough of the inner lip to slip inside the tube.
 
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I cut down a small piece of Aluminum tube. Then I placed it between the bearing that sits in the outside end of the axle housing and the bearing that sits inside the outer edge of the lock-out. This is essentially the space inside the lock-out.
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Because I did not use exact measuring, I still had to place a few 1mm shims between the lock-out bearing and pin like Yoda suggested. And because I wasn't precise, I still have a little play. The play is no longer enough for it to rub the lock-out anymore, and the other side wasn't rubbing the lock-out, so I'm just going to leave the play for now.

It does bother me having the play and I may consider getting another axle and removing the Beef Tube in the rear. I'm concerned that due to the small amount of play still left, the aluminum band-aid tube will drop down and start messing up either the shaft, the axle housing, the lock-out or the bearings...haha. If a solid fix can be found, I would like to leave the Beef Tubes.
 
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Another option is, with the diff cover off & the locker/ring gear out, fit the 2 lock outs & axles, with the axles pulled all the way out & seated in the bearing, measure the distance between the ends of the axles, cut a little piece of something just a whisker shorter that will fit inside the locker then re assemble. Take away the space for the axle to slide into.
It'll work with the stock locker but not with some spools if the slots are phased.
 
Another option is, with the diff cover off & the locker/ring gear out, fit the 2 lock outs & axles, with the axles pulled all the way out & seated in the bearing, measure the distance between the ends of the axles, cut a little piece of something just a whisker shorter that will fit inside the locker then re assemble. Take away the space for the axle to slide into.
It'll work with the stock locker but not with some spools if the slots are phased.

Other than a wide bearing to replace the two and fill the gap, I like this fix idea the best. This would eliminate extra tubes and edges that could rub and wear on other parts.

I haven't seen one out yet and so I'm not sure if the space goes all the way through or not. One idea would be to drop some solder or glue inside I guess.

Or, if it doesn't receive a lot of sideways force, I guess I could literally just jam some paper in there.
 
I'm interested; but, I'm still new. Can you explain what is different?

The VP lockers have set screws that clamp the axles into the lockers. I tried them and did not like - either the set screws would keep backing out, even with loctite, or the axle shafts wouldn't center properly in the locker.
 
Another option is, with the diff cover off & the locker/ring gear out, fit the 2 lock outs & axles, with the axles pulled all the way out & seated in the bearing, measure the distance between the ends of the axles, cut a little piece of something just a whisker shorter that will fit inside the locker then re assemble. Take away the space for the axle to slide into.
It'll work with the stock locker but not with some spools if the slots are phased.

Thank you altd896. Turns out that was an easy fix without adding additional pieces that could rub etc. I cut a piece of 1/8" round and slid it inside the locker. perfect fix.

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