mikey4play
Rock Stacker
Looking good
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sik boys night crawler...
- Thread starter SIK_BOY
- Start date
thank you sir!
hey wondering, i was tearing down my lnc again last night...there sure is alot soldered to the motor wires...is this for the lipo option? just wondering, thinkning about a motor upgrade and didnt realize if there is really any main importance to the diode/capicitor or what ever this stuff is. any input?
also, stock the losi motor sports a 20t, if i start playing with gearing before i upgrade motors what would be a good first jump in pinion for more torque?
hey wondering, i was tearing down my lnc again last night...there sure is alot soldered to the motor wires...is this for the lipo option? just wondering, thinkning about a motor upgrade and didnt realize if there is really any main importance to the diode/capicitor or what ever this stuff is. any input?
also, stock the losi motor sports a 20t, if i start playing with gearing before i upgrade motors what would be a good first jump in pinion for more torque?
LCC4TWENTY
Rock Stacker
well done sir. looks great "thumbsup"
Zimm98
Pebble Pounder
No need for the capacitors on the motor. On gearing going down in teeth will up torque and lower wheel speed going up in teeth lowers torque but ups wheel speed.
profsrkos2012
Pebble Pounder
So removing them is perfectly ok? I mean, they have to serve a purpose.
well, i asked jrcheese this last night, he said it was installed from the factory for limitation of radio innerference on the reciever....so, im just gonna leave it cuz getting glitches on a precise monuver could suck! lol
gonna start to play around with gearing to get the most out of my stock motor too...
gonna start to play around with gearing to get the most out of my stock motor too...
profsrkos2012
Pebble Pounder
I read a thread on here about adding capacitors that looked like advil pills to the motor but now i can't find it. Looks like some more searching lies ahead of me. I want to swap out to a 35T to see how much better things get. BL is a little too much for me right now, unfortunately.
Edit: found it
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109879
Edit: found it
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109879
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the stock capacitors are to help protect the ESC, not for radio interference. I reccomend leaving them on there just to be safe.
the advil looking ones were used to cut down on the motor noise/radio interference back in the day of AM/FM radios. with FASST/DSM radios these days you dont need to use them.
the advil looking ones were used to cut down on the motor noise/radio interference back in the day of AM/FM radios. with FASST/DSM radios these days you dont need to use them.
Ahhh, all very interesting and new to me. Thanks guys, i am gonna leave it all in, probualy even when i upgrade the motor too. They dont hurt anything, and thinking about a bec now that ive seen one and understand what they do.
profsrkos2012
Pebble Pounder
I'll have to take a pic of it before I swap motors so i don't have to post up an "OOPS" thread.
EL VASCO
Quarry Creeper
Hey Sik Boy, you know when I picked my HB Rovers I also got a pair of different pinions just to do some proves, as you are thinking before to change motor.
I got 12 teeth and 16 teeth pinions, so I first change tires, Rock Claws for HB Rovers with original 20 teeth pinion and it seems to have loosen the power
you know just when I more needed the power in a tight course it got blocked, so what’s the problem, I said myself??? Thinking about I could figured out that the large diameter of the Rovers and the softer compound of the inserts and the added weight at the wheels were too much for the stock motor.
So I gearing down to get my power back, I was directly with 12 teeth pinion and the stock motor push again, but it got very slow speed.
After using this setup some months I decided to prove with 16 teeth pinion and it make a nice difference, enough power and a reasonable speed wheel:mrgreen:
Just my experience, hope it brings you some idea what to do.
I got 12 teeth and 16 teeth pinions, so I first change tires, Rock Claws for HB Rovers with original 20 teeth pinion and it seems to have loosen the power
you know just when I more needed the power in a tight course it got blocked, so what’s the problem, I said myself??? Thinking about I could figured out that the large diameter of the Rovers and the softer compound of the inserts and the added weight at the wheels were too much for the stock motor.So I gearing down to get my power back, I was directly with 12 teeth pinion and the stock motor push again, but it got very slow speed.
After using this setup some months I decided to prove with 16 teeth pinion and it make a nice difference, enough power and a reasonable speed wheel:mrgreen:
Just my experience, hope it brings you some idea what to do.
Attachments
lol vasco, 20t to a 12t! thats a big jump, do you pull a wheel from a standing start? i picked up a 18t pinion and swaped it out last night but im still running the poop out of my factory tires. also, as i stated in the begining of this thread the issue i had with the set screws on the drive shafts...they are locked in good! jrcheese helped me out alot last night, we had to drill the f'ers out and use an e-z out to completely remove them!
kinda poopy right now because the thread pitch shows to be a 4-40 i bought new 4-40 set screws at ace last night, they dont tighten! fits real loose in the threads, and the threads werent even damaged in the removal process! bummed out on that! just gotta find some lcc drive shafts n be done with this headache!
also picked up a new bug boddy and some paint, the one i have looks horrible up close.
tore down the axles again, cleaned em up and completely regreased with some red n tacky...i like that stuff!
planning on going out tomorrow if i can get my shaft situation temporarily solved...planning on my first comp on the 16th. interesting to see what comes of that.
good pics on the motor/pinion swap vasco...thankyou!
kinda poopy right now because the thread pitch shows to be a 4-40 i bought new 4-40 set screws at ace last night, they dont tighten! fits real loose in the threads, and the threads werent even damaged in the removal process! bummed out on that! just gotta find some lcc drive shafts n be done with this headache!
also picked up a new bug boddy and some paint, the one i have looks horrible up close.
tore down the axles again, cleaned em up and completely regreased with some red n tacky...i like that stuff!
planning on going out tomorrow if i can get my shaft situation temporarily solved...planning on my first comp on the 16th. interesting to see what comes of that.
good pics on the motor/pinion swap vasco...thankyou!
this is an awsome explination of the shock set ups n i really dont want to lose the link, so im posting it here also...
http://www.crawlanz.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=803
http://www.crawlanz.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=803
:mrgreen:
:mrgreen:
SWEET!!! K AS STATED ON EARLIER ON MY THREAD, I HAD SET SRCEW ISSUES WITH MY DRIVESHAFTS RIGHT, NEEDLESS TO SAY I HAD TO DRILL THEM OUT IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE SHAFTS FROM THE PINION. PUT ANOTHER CALL INTO HORIZON HOBBY THIS AFTERNOON AND EXPLAINED MY CONCERNS....NATHAN! AT HORIZON TECH SUPPORT IS A BAD ASS, AND NOT ONLY HELPED, HE WAS ABLE TO SEND OUT LCC DRIVESHAFTS INSTEAD OF THE LNC DOG BONE SHAFTS! I THINK THEY STAND WELL BEHIND THE PRODUCTS AND AWSOME CUSTOMER SERVICE!
(IF YOU GUYS READ THIS....THANKYOU!)
JUST THOUGHT ID SHARE, BE PATIENT WITH THE TECH SUPPORT GUYS AND GOOD THINGS MAY HAPPEN-WITHIN REASON!"thumbsup"
:mrgreen:SWEET!!! K AS STATED ON EARLIER ON MY THREAD, I HAD SET SRCEW ISSUES WITH MY DRIVESHAFTS RIGHT, NEEDLESS TO SAY I HAD TO DRILL THEM OUT IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE SHAFTS FROM THE PINION. PUT ANOTHER CALL INTO HORIZON HOBBY THIS AFTERNOON AND EXPLAINED MY CONCERNS....NATHAN! AT HORIZON TECH SUPPORT IS A BAD ASS, AND NOT ONLY HELPED, HE WAS ABLE TO SEND OUT LCC DRIVESHAFTS INSTEAD OF THE LNC DOG BONE SHAFTS! I THINK THEY STAND WELL BEHIND THE PRODUCTS AND AWSOME CUSTOMER SERVICE!
(IF YOU GUYS READ THIS....THANKYOU!)
JUST THOUGHT ID SHARE, BE PATIENT WITH THE TECH SUPPORT GUYS AND GOOD THINGS MAY HAPPEN-WITHIN REASON!"thumbsup"
MikeinFresno
Rock Stacker
nice find on the shock thread
wow! went out and practiced out at a spot where im gonna enter my first comp, i am really amazed at both myself and this night crawler! very evident traction needs upgraded, some suspension tuning as well, but it hung in there with some other guys that were there and flat out worked well!
ill post up some pics tomorrow probually.
gonna swap out the tires for a set of pro-line masher 2000's ive had for ever and never mounted, same heigth, tid bit wider. ill get some pics of those too.
mikeinfresno yea, that shock thread answers alot of "how do you?" and "what about?" questions ive had.
ill post up some pics tomorrow probually.
gonna swap out the tires for a set of pro-line masher 2000's ive had for ever and never mounted, same heigth, tid bit wider. ill get some pics of those too.
mikeinfresno yea, that shock thread answers alot of "how do you?" and "what about?" questions ive had.
The lnc motor is the same in the losi slider the caps that are on there serve kinda like a fall back for the speed control under low end use when the caps. Are removed the motor heats up faster and causes radio glitches from the static electricity from the motor
well!
not so good on the comp, my first one by the way, i finished 5th in my 2.2 shafty class, had about 15 drivers in there. but...as much fun as i had, i did not truely enjoy my rig!
BIND BIND BIND....oh wait did i happen to mention my first course, first steep approach....BIND! LOL
really frusterating, it just stared too thats the pooper, im thinking about all ive done, thankfully not alot! i built new steering that kicks butt over the oe setup. i bumped the pinion to an 18t on oe motor and oe esc. stripped down front n rear axles for good clean inspect regrease...used some fancy red n tacky...tried to pay close attention to the reassemble as to not smash the axle housing bolts down to tight. um, yea when i was in there i did decide to remove one of the three pinion shims just for poops n giggles, wanted to see if the extra play would benifit anything...that may be where my mistake lies???
then i also installed lcc drive shafts, i did get some oil in the sliding area so it was freely slipping, then i mounted up some old school pro line masher 2000's. and also made a set of upper links for the rear, made em a lil longer for happier pinion angle, ended shortening em tho closer to the oe upper links, now there damn near the same, so with all that said....
while out at the comp, right before my first course it was doing it bad on a rock i was practicing on, had a guy tell me his lnc did it and the motor was his issue, swapped it out for a friends 55t, put my 18t back on, didnt like it...first course...bind! put my 20t pinion on, the next course kinda got worse, at the end of the day i was absolutley frustrated and discouraged for a bit, tightened up the shock springs for less flex, still binds!
so then i just starting thinking and backtracking, you just read all my thoughts so ill stop typing now, sorry its a long post!
didnt really get a chance for picks at the comp but i do have some i need to post of the rig thus far, ill get em up. but any input on this issue im having would be great to bounce ideas.....
and yes, i do think its a drive train bind and not a true stall, but if one would lay out the main differences between the two on a losi, please do!
not so good on the comp, my first one by the way, i finished 5th in my 2.2 shafty class, had about 15 drivers in there. but...as much fun as i had, i did not truely enjoy my rig!BIND BIND BIND....oh wait did i happen to mention my first course, first steep approach....BIND! LOL
really frusterating, it just stared too thats the pooper, im thinking about all ive done, thankfully not alot! i built new steering that kicks butt over the oe setup. i bumped the pinion to an 18t on oe motor and oe esc. stripped down front n rear axles for good clean inspect regrease...used some fancy red n tacky...tried to pay close attention to the reassemble as to not smash the axle housing bolts down to tight. um, yea when i was in there i did decide to remove one of the three pinion shims just for poops n giggles, wanted to see if the extra play would benifit anything...that may be where my mistake lies???
then i also installed lcc drive shafts, i did get some oil in the sliding area so it was freely slipping, then i mounted up some old school pro line masher 2000's. and also made a set of upper links for the rear, made em a lil longer for happier pinion angle, ended shortening em tho closer to the oe upper links, now there damn near the same, so with all that said....
while out at the comp, right before my first course it was doing it bad on a rock i was practicing on, had a guy tell me his lnc did it and the motor was his issue, swapped it out for a friends 55t, put my 18t back on, didnt like it...first course...bind! put my 20t pinion on, the next course kinda got worse, at the end of the day i was absolutley frustrated and discouraged for a bit, tightened up the shock springs for less flex, still binds!
so then i just starting thinking and backtracking, you just read all my thoughts so ill stop typing now, sorry its a long post!
didnt really get a chance for picks at the comp but i do have some i need to post of the rig thus far, ill get em up. but any input on this issue im having would be great to bounce ideas.....
and yes, i do think its a drive train bind and not a true stall, but if one would lay out the main differences between the two on a losi, please do!
Penguin Geek
Newbie
i did not truely enjoy my rig
Here come all the LCC or Axial fanboys saying you should not expect a comp-ready crawler from a LNC without extensive mods. In 3...2...1...
