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sik boys night crawler...

aw dont hate baca!!!:evil:

i stated that the issues i expeienced at my first comp are probually my fault because of the way i left the set up. im not saying that im done or pawning it off for the norm...axial...i just gotta keep tuning the rig. its okay tho, i understand, your jealous that your axial didnt come with cool rock lights!:lmao:

ah, i like making myself laugh, dude the axials are sweet, definetly way more quieter than my losi.

just gotta dial it in and be patient:mrgreen:
 
look really close while you start a climb at your rear pinion and see if it starts to point to the sky. If so, your links are not in the correct geometry. Just saying since you have messed with the links.... i know when i messed with my link locations the pinion would move upward as i started into a climb causing a bad bind on mine.

Let me ask you a question about the LNC driveshaft.... does it have a slip yoke like the LCC one does? Just looking at running those and they appear to be one solid piece... if that's the case then how does it allow movement when the axle moves up and down? That has to put pressure on the output at the tranny and the pinion at the axle!
 
yea i was watching that, the pinion angles, and your right, the rear axle pinion shoots for the stars! lol, but the front, because its just pretty much flipped from the rear, it shoots down...all factory links up front.
so maybe i need to shortn my new links i made some more huh?

as far as the lnc drive shafts go, the cv cup at the axle is the same ball n cup as the lcc, however, the trans actually has the end mounted with set screws and its a dog bone at the trans, that way it still slides in n out.
 
yea i was watching that, the pinion angles, and your right, the rear axle pinion shoots for the stars! lol, but the front, because its just pretty much flipped from the rear, it shoots down...all factory links up front.
so maybe i need to shortn my new links i made some more huh?

as far as the lnc drive shafts go, the cv cup at the axle is the same ball n cup as the lcc, however, the trans actually has the end mounted with set screws and its a dog bone at the trans, that way it still slides in n out.

What worked for me is lowering the upper link on the body side to one of the two lowest locations. At the lowest, i get no axle wrap; next one up i get just a little, and the top one i get a lot! Try that and see if it improves the bind and report back, i'd be interested.

Gotcha on the DS! thanks. "thumbsup"
 
well, on the last course yesterday i did actually put both, front n rear upper links on the lowest mounting at the chassis, in deed it helped, but still binded pretty bad. pinion angle didnt shoot up as bad but yes it still locked up half way thru stuff i know it would go over. whats your opinion on the pinion shims i took out, you think its just getting to much slop? worm gears in my mind should be a lil on the tight side. i shouldnt of taken em out. oh well, if thats what it ends up being, trial and error right?
 
well, on the last course yesterday i did actually put both, front n rear upper links on the lowest mounting at the chassis, in deed it helped, but still binded pretty bad. pinion angle didnt shoot up as bad but yes it still locked up half way thru stuff i know it would go over. whats your opinion on the pinion shims i took out, you think its just getting to much slop? worm gears in my mind should be a lil on the tight side. i shouldnt of taken em out. oh well, if thats what it ends up being, trial and error right?

with the driveshaft off, when you go to spin one of the wheels it should put pressure on the worms and then the pinion will start to move in or out. Check that and see how far it moves. It should barely move from what i understand.

Also, maybe you need to gear down on your pinion. I'm running a 13; remember it's not a race, this is ROCK CRAWLING :)
 
way back when my lnc would act like it was binding. I tried re greasing, checking for rough spots in the drive train, 3 different motors, finally it ended up being the esc. I switched to a MMP and 13.5 no name brushless and did not have a problem after that. It might be worth looking into.
 
concretejungle: i do believe that to much play is in the pinions! ill have to reinstall the shims n snug them up.

zimm98: how water proof do you think the factory esc is? lol! there is a good possiblity that it got wet in the rain a few weeks ago behind my shop.:cry:
ive been thinkn about this and im lookin into the novak rooster crawler/55t set up. saw it in action on another rig sunday and really liked it, plus it comes with a built in bec too.
 
Hey, been lurking and following along since you've posted the new LNC. You got a cool setup going.
Check out Del Monte's setup on his LCC. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=184075 great for getting link and shock setups. The last few pages show the current setup. It's a great resource as he has done a bunch of testing so we don't have too.:lmao:

Go down another tooth or 2 on the pinion to help the stall. When you put on taller tires you need to drop down 2-4 teeth in pinion size to get the low end grunt back.

Not sure where your LNC will take you and the upgrades and changes that will end up being done. If you have considered or if you ever decide to change to the LCC transmission then you'll need a brushless setup. That just might be something to think about when considering the Novak setup so you can avoid buying things twice. You can always run the brushless now and change the tranny later.
 
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Very good point Flexx, and you SIK BOY maybe should hear this guy, what he recommend you have a lot of sense, you know, if you are planning just as me converting your LNC to a LCC, so changing now for a better brushed motor and maybe a couple of months later you’ll want to change your LNC transmission for the LCC you should change again the motor for a brushless and spend more and more money, anyway is your pocket and not mine.
Sometimes we have here so much information that makes us feel a little bit confused or at least to me, so this is just a piece of advice for you have not to spend twice.
Anyway sometimes the better way to learn is making mistakes and learning of them, yes it takes you more money, time, frustration, but for sure you’ll never forget it and will serve you for your future decisions.
Try going down with your pinion, between 12 and 16 teeth would be fine I guess, mines is 16, and just put the enough weight in your fronts, not over load them, it’d only bring you premature wear on the whole parts of your front axle.
Ok man so many words for you and don’t want to get you too much confused, hope you keep on rocking!!!
And by my side I should making progress with my stuff but I got another big deal to do this summer (your winter), you know I’m building my garage, ok ok this is not the place to say it, I’ll tell you in the chit chat section, just when I get a couple of minutes to post some words about it.
See you fellows!!!
"thumbsup"
 
I agree, if you think you are gonna stay with the Losi platform go brushless (even if you don't most good brusless esc's can do brushed like for an moa). I decided brushless in my lnc and it has grown with me, currently I am running a duel esc moa (one set of motor and esc from my truck pre moa) with 13.5t motors (wheel speed monster). I would of kept my lnc sportsman if there was a class for it around here.
 
Not sure that the pinion is the issue for your binding. I ran the stock 20 tooth pinion when my LNC was stock with just Sedonas and weighted wheels, then I kept the 20 when I swapped in the Titan motor. Never had any binding issues or lack of power. I now run a 22 pinion with the Goat 3s 18.5.

Show us some pics of your truck with the links you made. And if the ESC got wet, that could be causing some issues.
 
yea i hear all your saying. honestly been busy with the real trucks for the moment, got a show coming up and trying to get the girls truck done so we can drive it there. as far as the losi goes, i love this stuff, and enjoy the build/tear down/rebuild process as well as my own r&d ya know. with the lcc trans topic brought up...not gonna! lol some may just think im dumb, but honestly...the aspect of a dig is cool, like how they operate for you on a course, just not gonna do one on this rig. i think the "sportsman class" is good and its truely about driver skill and rig set up, just my .02
i have plans on building another losi foundation rig that i decided to go with moa and then ill have a dig set up obviously on that one. plus, the gf likes the losi the way it is now, and shes gonna be getting one of her own, so shell be getting her feet wet next to me real quick.
brushless motor? maybe, but im not up on the hi end fancy stuff. this hobby is just that, its a way to get away and when money allows for it, make cool mods n upgrades. wish i had the time and the money to build both the real trucks and the rc trucks, then have the time to enjoy each one fully....find me that perfect world ay!
so thats where im at in my head. hopefully within this next week ill have some good down time at night and ill post up the pics of how it is now, and go back thru what ive done and see about handling the binding.
yes...del montes rig is a badass! no dought he has the setups dialed in and is a very awsome thread to follow and gain knowledge from, i do! lol"thumbsup"
appreciate everyones time to input there ideas, nothing will be unread, and i appologize for not being on enough to post pics that quick. stay tuned....8)
 
k, small update. last night reinstalled the shims on the pinions and wiped out some of the grease in the housings. reinstalled the stock upper links on the rear. so now minus my steering and the old set of mashers its stock. i really only see it binding on the carpet in my living room at the moment. and only when i straight approach the side of my entertainment center, go to throttle up and it seems to bog out half way up the crawl. i tink this is mainly because of the carpet, no? charging the batteries up and gonna take it on some rocks later so ill post again today.
i do know that the gears seem alot happier without the slop i created in the begining!"thumbsup"
 
okay...here some pic updates everybody...

my new steering...
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heres the P-L masher 2000's i swapped out...
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this is the pic of the upper links i made that went on the rear, in this pic they are alot longer, i trimmed and trimmed and then trimmed, thealuminum one is now literally a bolt hole in the rod end longer thatn the oe upper link.
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my new lcc driveshafts parts!:mrgreen:
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some action shots at the comp area a week prior...new old body
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haha! watch out! woman drivers!!!
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couple misc pics...
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well, sorry the delay in pic posting, hope you like em!"thumbsup"
 
d lux, i have not raised the mounts at the axle yet. i want n need to get the adjustable upper mount head to do that. i was wondering if the links would contact my servo tray and or esc tray...would they?
 
d lux, i have not raised the mounts at the axle yet. i want n need to get the adjustable upper mount head to do that. i was wondering if the links would contact my servo tray and or esc tray...would they?
The most important one and the one thats most likely causing your binding is the rear mount. You dont need the Losi part. You can simply add a .25" spacer under the mount. Doing it this way will also make it so it does not mess with your ESC mount. I wouldnt mess with the front until you get the car more dialed in.
 
da! ive been so mind trapped on the losi mount i feel dumb:shock:...obviously i have the small tubing to do this!
im gonna try it sir! thankyou.
Hey, ever have the drive shaft set screws continuosly back off and just spin on the pinion? lock tite fix this?
 
da! ive been so mind trapped on the losi mount i feel dumb:shock:...obviously i have the small tubing to do this!
im gonna try it sir! thankyou.
Hey, ever have the drive shaft set screws continuosly back off and just spin on the pinion? lock tite fix this?

Loctite all of the metal to metal screws with blue loctite. I even do the motor pinion. Nothing worse than a motor spooling up and flinging off the end of the motor shaft at high RPM.
 
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