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Steering Improvements

I have a scx10 I've been running in my LHS Comps one thing had bothered me is my steering, I have a Savox 0231 Servo rest is stock, everybody runs something different and I'm at a toss up! What do you guys think I should do?

My radio is a DX3C
 
TylerHartman said:
I have a scx10 I've been running in my LHS Comps one thing had bothered me is my steering, I have a Savox 0231 Servo rest is stock, everybody runs something different and I'm at a toss up! What do you guys think I should do?

My radio is a DX3C
Click to expand...

well you can have a look through this thread, I've found it very helpful.
 
Here are the pics, I hope they help.

Axial scx10, od bevel gear in front axle, standard hd bevel in rear, rc4wd heavy duty cvd, hot racing clockable chubs, axial high steer knuckles,proline shocks, pitbull rockbeast 1.9 tires with CI single stage foam, axial 8-hold beadlock rims, hitech 646wp steering servo, custom steering links.

Please excuse the looks of the truck, I had it apart working on the cage, so I threw it back together real quick to take the pics.

Starting from a standstill.

IMG_20140715_110711823 onFlickr

Starting the turn.
IMG_20140715_110740812 on Flickr

Crossing back over the ruler at approx. 36"
IMG_20140715_110820966 on Flickr

U-turn completed.
IMG_20140715_110848641 on Flickr

Underside of truck steering turned full right.
IMG_20140715_111016150 on Flickr


Turned full left.
IMG_20140715_111000733 on Flickr

I still need to adjust my steering linkage length a bit, and put in a more powerful steering servo.

I'm using the rc4wd extreme duty cvd's but I only put them on recently so I can't really say anything about their longevity. Though they seem to be well made.

Really can't get much more steering out of this as my shocks are in the way. Also with this tire set up, my steering arm comes about 1/16 of an inch from rubbing on my tires.
 
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You can also use a longer screw & a spacer to move the lower link mount & shock mount towards the pumpkin to get the shocks in some more.
Also the smaller diameter your shocks are the more room you have.

I am running a sport with ax10 uni's & axial high steers BTA on my sporty & with some custom front shocks I get a fair amount out of the axial high steers & universals.

I was givin a tidbit of advise (that I am not utilizing on this one..... but it makes perfect sense.)

The high steer knuckles are designed for the steering link up front so the outside wheel turns sharper, if you go behind the axle (reversing the knuckes so the arms are on the rear) you make the opposite happen. The inside wheel turns sharpest.
I eventually will go with an XR mod for my sporty.

You can kinda see it in this pic.
spacer & shock are inside the axle mount & the link mount is on the inside end.

Imagine your troubles with a 2.2 wheel & 5 1/2" OD Tires
 
Last edited:
Hammer! said:
Hey guys, as we all probably know, the scx10 doesn't get the best steering radius (or maybe I'm just fussy :roll:). I'm trying to make this short, so if i were going to get the axial hi-clearance knuckles what else would i need to actually get more steering?

Cheers, Hammer!
Click to expand...
A couple of things I learned while messing with my steering....

1. Don't use HC knuckles unless you're also running CMS. Just brings the steering link closer to the drag link and binds at full compression.

2. If your servo is mounted to your axle and you have replaced the stock steering link then be sure your drag link is long enough to reach the furthest knuckle from the servo spline. A short drag link mounted to the knuckle on the same side as the servo spline will limit the overall throw.

3. Run a BEC and set to 6v to be sure you're getting better performance from your servo.

4. OD gears in front at minimum. UD gears in the rear even better. Think of it as turning your truck into more of a FWD than RWD. Pulls through turns instead of pushes. Very similar to the way dig works except that the rears aren't completely locked up.

I don't yet run CVDs but have no complaints about my steering.

If you like to run wheel wideners then look into the XR10 mod. Will get you the width you want without the drag, stress on bearings, etc.
 
Hammer! said:
I'm probably going for either rc4wd (get 50* of steering) or axial ones (get 42* of steering), you can find them on axials website (axialracing.com), or the rc4wd ones on their website (store.rc4wd.com)
Click to expand...

Please rethink this.

I bought two sets of the RC4WD CVD's. The first set exploded both sides. I didn't trust them enough to put the second pair in, and I don't feel comfortable selling them in the classifieds because I know they are no good...they are still hanging on my wall.

I've seen too many problems with the Axial CVD's as well. These were on Sporty rigs with larger 2.2 tires, so you may be ok on your SCX but I wouldn't take the chance.

Also there are two versions of the XR mod...a narrow setup and the traditional wider setup with Beef Tubes that gives the width of an XR-10 or Wraith. The narrow version isn't that much wider than stock.
 
For a scaler, the narrow xr mod is the way to go. About 1/4" overall width isn't too bad. For a sporty, the stock xr width is the ticket.

Some cut down tubes, uni's and plastic stuff to start. It's not that rough on the pocket.
 
DowntownScience said:
That is not a cheap mod. Not to mention it makes your front wider.
Click to expand...

The only GOOD set of shafts for the scx axle currently built are the same cost as using HR alloy c hubs and knuckles along with xr universals. The narrow xr mod is only slightly wider and it adds strength along with increased steering angle.


C*H*U*D said:
Please rethink this.

I bought two sets of the RC4WD CVD's. The first set exploded both sides. I didn't trust them enough to put the second pair in, and I don't feel comfortable selling them in the classifieds because I know they are no good...they are still hanging on my wall.

I've seen too many problems with the Axial CVD's as well. These were on Sporty rigs with larger 2.2 tires, so you may be ok on your SCX but I wouldn't take the chance.

Also there are two versions of the XR mod...a narrow setup and the traditional wider setup with Beef Tubes that gives the width of an XR-10 or Wraith. The narrow version isn't that much wider than stock.
Click to expand...



Facts. I couldn't keep axial cvd's alive even with gunnar pins. If I wasn't popping pins I was busting the head off the inner shafts or breaking the bell on the stub. Fawking garbage.
 
C*H*U*D said:
Please rethink this.

I bought two sets of the RC4WD CVD's. The first set exploded both sides. I didn't trust them enough to put the second pair in, and I don't feel comfortable selling them in the classifieds because I know they are no good...they are still hanging on my wall.

I've seen too many problems with the Axial CVD's as well. These were on Sporty rigs with larger 2.2 tires, so you may be ok on your SCX but I wouldn't take the chance.

Also there are two versions of the XR mod...a narrow setup and the traditional wider setup with Beef Tubes that gives the width of an XR-10 or Wraith. The narrow version isn't that much wider than stock.
Click to expand...

i appreciate your concern but i would like to try the rc4wd ones anyway they get 50* which is just what i need. if they really are that bad (which i doubt i would break them, i don't do anything that breaks parts) what are the better cvd's for the scx10
 
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I am hearing ya hammer on that 50 degree thing makes me want them to,mi just don't want to waste my coin lol maybe u could buy them and let me know ;)
 
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