The progression of my XR10 into a Berg.

[95geo]

It's assembled correctly.

 

[Farmer]

Thanks! I wanted to pick up a set of the Al Ti-Fighters after seeing yours but I wanted a couple features that I was unable to "exchange" for the standard parts they come with. By the time I added up the machining and parts swapping I wanted, they were no longer a good choice for me. I would have spent the money for basically the cases only. So that's why I'm putting in a ton of work and good materials into stock cases. I'm crossing my fingers that someone comes out with an aftermarket case that is slightly reconfigured to take advantage of the narrow gearset and allow enough room for a servo without cutting the tubes all up. I actually have an awesome stack of ideas for a case design but the two companies I approached want nothing to do with it so I'm going to save them for myself until I decide to have them made for myself or find the right company to "buy" my design to mass produce for everyone to enjoy.

If there are any business owners/workers with pull that are reading this and are serious about bringing an awesome Berg case design to market, please PM me. I am certain it will be worth your efforts for a LONG time to come!

For what it's worth, I was an accomplished automotive powertrain designer for the first part of my career so I am capable of producing a production ready design. The only reason I haven't tried to produce these components on my own is the lack of reasonable machining capabilities and no desire to take on the business responsibilities associated with being the middle man which also doesn't help the bottom line cost that I would like to target in order to make them as popular as they should be.
As a worst case scenario, I'm planning on buying a CNC vertical mill in the semi near future and If there isn't anything out there by then, I'll bring them to market on my own.

We need to talk"thumbsup"
Later,
Farmer

 

[bigstu]

Yes we do. If I buy a CNC I am sure there would be some available time..
Going to be there on Sunday.

 

[95geo]

Made some more progress last night, I'm still waiting for the 300HD's so once I get the rears done and the fronts roughed in I won't be able to finish anything else off.

 

[95geo]

I machined up a set of stock tubes for the front so I can spend some more time on other things, I also came up with a good way to retain the inner side of the bearing that makes the machining a little easier. I got the rear short side just about done and I ran into another snag, I don't have a boring bar small enough so that'll be on hold a bit. I'm going to get the rear long side ready to finish off and then that's as much as I can do for now.

I'm excited to get this thing together, I have a feeling the XR will get shelved for good once this thing gets done. With any luck it should be quite a bit lighter than the XR version!

 

[krawlfreak]

The fit and finish on this chassis isn't as impressive as the first. It seems as if the cutter is walking a lot while cutting. I'm sure it'll work fine but for the price, it's not what I would expect.

You have the driver side one hole forward from the pass side...

 

[TSK]

You have the driver side one hole forward from the pass side...

That's what me & Rowdy tried to tell him...

But he's saying the driver's side is not even bolted, it's apparently the doubler and main plate holes being misaligned and cocking the cross bar. Then again you can't tell by that pic sine it cuts off at the top.

 

[95geo]

Gentlemen, please have some faith in the fact that I'm not your common forum retard.

I took a picture showing the support between them because it was easier to see the angle I was talking about. Also, if you look close enough in the previous pic, you can see that I backed the screws out so any potential misalignment in the stack up would be reduced as much as possible.

But since nobody will believe me when I say it was assembled correctly, here is another (less clear, yet more clear) picture I took at the same time as the other one.

Finishing pass on the short side rear tube, 1.0mm wall, the bearing is a nice slip fit also.

 

[krawlfreak]

It looks the same... I see a hole behind your brace on one side and not on the other....

The best thing to do would be to pull it apart and lay the sidePlate on top of each other.. I am pretty sure the holes will line up. As you thread the screw in was it tight?

The holes are slightly undersized and they will actually cut threads until they have been run through a few times... I think this is what you are experiencing.

All the standard issue braces are lined up perfectly but yours is outa whack.

 

[The Violator]

Gentlemen, please have some faith in the fact that I'm not your common forum retard.

Looks fine to me."thumbsup"

 

[Hittman]

If you tighten the screw does it straighten out? The screw might just be cockeyed in the hole.... Thats what it looks like to me.

 

[95geo]

And just when I thought I was past the point of being nervous when machining something, I had to go and do this..... :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

Almost done with the front axle- for now.

 

[billj]

And just when I thought I was past the point of being nervous when machining something, I had to go and do this..... :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

Almost done with the front axle- for now.

Hell, i cut my 7950 with a dremel and a belt sander. Now that will make ya nervous:lmao::lmao:

Nice work by the way"thumbsup"

 

[EverettY]

Like people keep trying to tell you... Look at this pic. (sorry it's in black and hard to see) See on the lower side how the edge of the spacer and the edge of the chassis are basically flush.... And than look on the top side it's not flush.... Also see that black line I drew it's basically parallel with the spacer at the back of the chassis but it's not parallel with the shock spacer.... You just need to admit you are wrong man...

 

[95geo]

Like people keep trying to tell you... Look at this pic. (sorry it's in black and hard to see) See on the lower side how the edge of the spacer and the edge of the chassis are basically flush.... And than look on the top side it's not flush.... Also see that black line I drew it's basically parallel with the spacer at the back of the chassis but it's not parallel with the shock spacer.... You just need to admit you are wrong man...

LOL

I was just going to ignore all of the people commenting about something they are completely missing the point on but you're comments made me decide to attempt to clarify things ONE last time.

If anyone commenting on this has yet to grasp the basic scope of my "cutter walking" comment and think that I'm mistaken, please read the following:

This has absolutely NOTHING to do with any part of the chassis except the main side plate and the doubled up section/extension for the rear chassis/shock support. There are a series of 5 holes that all fall concentric to one another through two different plates. If you somehow think the opposing side is a factor in this, stop thinking it. This has to do with two panels only. Now for the key factor that I am pointing out; these 5 holes that pass through two panels (with zero room for stack up considerations) do not line up properly to one another. After getting a bolt through with a tapered point, the angle the two holes being misaligned created is what you see in the picture. The spacer is just loosely threaded onto the remaining portion of the bolt hanging out and does not have ANYTHING to do with the root issue at all. Finally, the fastener on the opposing side, if there were one shown, would not point toward the spacer in a parallel fashion, it would also have the tip pointing forward like the one shown in the picture.

I have since opened the holes up enough to get them to pass through perpendicular to the panel so this is no longer a topic for concern.

So, to clarify, if I'm ever wrong I will gladly own up to my mistake and provide a corrected statement. In this case, I'm not, everything I have said is correct.

 

[binaryterror]

I know what will really fix this problem Bryce run a Sniper chassis!

Guys give him some credit here. I know it's hard to believe mistakes happen it says more that you flame someone and be a know it all. Maybe it wasn't perfectly stated earlier but it is now.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

 

[krawlfreak]

The holes are slightly undersized and they will actually cut threads until they have been run through a few times... I think this is what you are experiencing.

I have since opened the holes up enough to get them to pass through perpendicular to the panel so this is no longer a topic for concern.

so we are all good then"thumbsup"

 

[winkscrawler]

LOL

I was just going to ignore all of the people commenting about something they are completely missing the point on but you're comments made me decide to attempt to clarify things ONE last time.

If anyone commenting on this has yet to grasp the basic scope of my "cutter walking" comment and think that I'm mistaken, please read the following:

This has absolutely NOTHING to do with any part of the chassis except the main side plate and the doubled up section/extension for the rear chassis/shock support. There are a series of 5 holes that all fall concentric to one another through two different plates. If you somehow think the opposing side is a factor in this, stop thinking it. This has to do with two panels only. Now for the key factor that I am pointing out; these 5 holes that pass through two panels (with zero room for stack up considerations) do not line up properly to one another. After getting a bolt through with a tapered point, the angle the two holes being misaligned created is what you see in the picture. The spacer is just loosely threaded onto the remaining portion of the bolt hanging out and does not have ANYTHING to do with the root issue at all. Finally, the fastener on the opposing side, if there were one shown, would not point toward the spacer in a parallel fashion, it would also have the tip pointing forward like the one shown in the picture.

I have since opened the holes up enough to get them to pass through perpendicular to the panel so this is no longer a topic for concern.

So, to clarify, if I'm ever wrong I will gladly own up to my mistake and provide a corrected statement. In this case, I'm not, everything I have said is correct.

Thanks for clarifying but I think for you to show what you are talking about you would need to take a picture from the side view showing the misalignment of the wholes as you say exists. Your picture is misleading. I am sure that Jeremy would send you a new piece or pieces if the parts he sent were cut incorrectly. I think with the top view it just looks like you are trying to connect to the wrong hole. Either way, good luck and have fun with your build. "thumbsup"

 

[95geo]

so we are all good then"thumbsup"

"thumbsup" Ya, the holes are very slightly (maybe .010" each) slotted to allow a solid clamp by the fastener. If I weren't planning to run a support between the shocks I would be more concerned about opening the holes up but I know I need the support so it all works out in the end.

As it sits currently waiting for material to show up. I'm working on getting the suspension and control arms laid out so it'll climb like a billy goat! I recently put a correlation to roll axis and it's effects on picking a tire up during a steep climb. The location and balance of the front to rear roll axis is critical. I would go into details but I'd rather keep this a build thread. If you would like me to share my findings, start a thread and link it in here.

 

[binaryterror]

Running your lower links in the shock mount hole on the outside? You must be planning to run sock/link in the same hole. Good luck, I tried and ended up with bent screws...though that is when trucks were far heavier than they are now.

Make sure you get that 12.5" WB test set...Farmer already is looking out for my WB and I'm sure he'll want to hawk yours. Though he is the guy in the club who has 12.5000000" because he locked me in the garage until it was set to that.