Things to know before you start building your Ascender...

[Natedog]

Hello and welcome! The rings that you refer to are shims for the ring gears (spools instead of differentials), they are not listed in the manual that I have either. There should be two shims behind the ring gear, between the bearing and spool, to ensure proper gear mesh. The gears mesh is too loose without the shims and can allow the gears to skip teeth and break.

As I recall the panhard bar that appears too short in your picture should have a 66mm tube and 12mm tube together for total of 78mm plus ball ends.
http://www.vaterrarc.com/ProdInfo/Files/VTR03023_Manual.pdf

EDIT: FYI the front axle is not always exactly centered under the truck due to the panhard bar type setup, the axle will move side to side slightly through out it's full range of suspension travel.

 

[Browneye]

When I assembled my front diff with the shims on either side of the ring gear, it would grind slightly at one point in rotation. I took it back out and put both shims on one side to give it more room against the drive pinion and then it was all quiet.

My RTR is a little quieter overall than the one I built. But that could be due to simple break in - it's been run a lot more than the new one. It is getting quieter too.
And the Dynamite 35T motor runs a little faster than the HH Trailmaster 35T - both have the same ESC's now, Hobbywing 1080's, with either 2s or 3s power. My RTR has one smaller tooth motor pinion and still runs faster than the other one with a 16 tooth. I'm not unhappy with either, just a note for the enthusiasts here.

 

[Natedog]

Hey Chris, so you put both shims opposite ring gear? I've not had to do that, would prefer slightly tight than loose since they will break in with running. If the tightness is only in one spot, I would leave it that way as it will break in. If you feel it's really tight, you could leave it shimmed looser and be easy on it for a few crawl sessions and then move the shims to tighten it up. My RTR Blazer is years old and has tons of hard run time on it with shims to tighten the mesh and not one problem with them, very quiet too. I've disassembled a few times to check on it, cleaned and regreased.

Motors with same winds etcetera will have some variance in torque and speed, the more expensive hand wound motors are even better and will be more consistent from one to another.

 

[Mongol Pete]

Hi from Ulaanbaatar,

Can I wake up an old thread? I got a kit on the way and am wondering if anyone can confirm that the bugs have all been worked out of the building process. Is there anything I should look out for? It'd be nice to save some time by avoiding known Vaterra-rookie mistakes.

Thanks,
MP

 

[Browneye]

Hi from Ulaanbaatar,

Can I wake up an old thread? I got a kit on the way and am wondering if anyone can confirm that the bugs have all been worked out of the building process. Is there anything I should look out for? It'd be nice to save some time by avoiding known Vaterra-rookie mistakes.

Thanks,
MP

I have built two of them in the last 6 months - what 'bugs' are you referring to?


They are easy to assemble, just take some time to put all the pieces together. And you have to choose your motor and electronics - have you done that? You'll need some hex-drivers, and either a mini-set of channel locks or a tool to insert all the link and steering pivot balls.



Otherwise they go together very straightforward without issue - a step by step photo guide comes with it and all the parts to build all four wheelbase lengths.



What's left??? 8)

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Hi from Ulaanbaatar,

Can I wake up an old thread? I got a kit on the way and am wondering if anyone can confirm that the bugs have all been worked out of the building process. Is there anything I should look out for? It'd be nice to save some time by avoiding known Vaterra-rookie mistakes.

Thanks,
MP

I'm pretty sure some of the issues still exist, but if you read this thread before getting your Ascender kit it will trigger you to refer back here once you reach a step with a potential issue.

 

[OldNTired]

I have built two of them in the last 6 months - what 'bugs' are you referring to?


They are easy to assemble, just take some time to put all the pieces together. And you have to choose your motor and electronics - have you done that? You'll need some hex-drivers, and either a mini-set of channel locks or a tool to insert all the link and steering pivot balls.



Otherwise they go together very straightforward without issue - a step by step photo guide comes with it and all the parts to build all four wheelbase lengths.



What's left??? 8)

Well, Unless they've fixed the numerous issues with the instructions then no, all the "bugs" aren't fixed. No mention of the panhard bar length, numerous mistakes with the link lengths listed in the original instructions.
BUT, as JATO mentions below. Refer to this thread and there is another that is wheelbase and links that is quite helpful as well. Enjoy the build! Outside of links the rest of the book is complete and nicely laid out.

 

[Mongol Pete]

Thanks for your replies,

I have chosen to run a HW1080 ESC/Tekin 35T HD motor combo on a Protek RC 3s shorty pack. I've not yet ordered the servo because the one I want is not in stock, so I'm still looking. I have built 5 kits in the last 6 months or so, so I think I have the tools I need, including a stock tool for the links and pivot balls (Tekno shock tool). I am just wondering if there are still misprints or missing parts in the latest kits, like those mentioned at the start of this thread. I'll just refer to this thread if I get stuck during the build.

Thanks,
MP

 

[ElektriXx2]

I might be too late for you Mongol Pete but when I built my kit last month or so, the manual had an updated page (the very last page) which described the proper length for the upper front 3-link. The Panhard bar was still not properly described. When you are building the chassis, the regular step as you go through the manual that instructs you to build the upper 3-link (Step F-3), you are building the Panhard bar (66mm plus one spacer) and the added page at the very end describes the upper front 3-link (61mm plus one spacer).

Hope that helps.

 

[Mongol Pete]

I might be too late for you Mongol Pete but when I built my kit last month or so, the manual had an updated page (the very last page) which described the proper length for the upper front 3-link. The Panhard bar was still not properly described. When you are building the chassis, the regular step as you go through the manual that instructs you to build the upper 3-link (Step F-3), you are building the Panhard bar (66mm plus one spacer) and the added page at the very end describes the upper front 3-link (61mm plus one spacer).

Hope that helps.

I have to take another look at the manual. I did have to take the front links apart. The panhard link was wrong when I built it. Thanks brother!

 

[durok]

Figured this thread might be a good place to drop this... I am NOT affiliated with this site - haven't even bought from them before - but spotted some nicely priced upgrades and....

... (gasp) they have some unbuilt slider K5-chassis Ascenders left - no body, wheels or tires but a nice price!

Vaterra Ascender - Page 1 - Club 5 Racing

I need to not spend money at the moment, but even I am tempted at that price - still need to build a heavily modified and stretched Samurai on something... "thumbsup"

 

[Browneye]

Likely the same seller on ebay...same 'LA area', same quantities. Odd that they would have bought enough spare parts to build whole chassis. Maybe they're knock-offs. [shrug]

 

[soze]

Likely the same seller on ebay...same 'LA area', same quantities. Odd that they would have bought enough spare parts to build whole chassis. Maybe they're knock-offs. [shrug]

That seller actually did buy a bunch of kits and parted them out on ebay. My guess is he bought a bunch when they went on fire sale last year? last last year? At first he was selling the body separate from the rest of the kit. My guess is his stock of bodies went faster than the rest of the kit.

I've been watching his account, and he's got some nice club5racing upgrades for various trucks.

 

[durok]

I like how inexpensive the stainless links are - I'll likely at least get my steering links finally replaced to get rid of the stack of washers and PC motherboard standoff that I'm currently using to make mine the correct length for a longitudinal servo setup on the K10.

 

[soze]

I like how inexpensive the stainless links are - I'll likely at least get my steering links finally replaced to get rid of the stack of washers and PC motherboard standoff that I'm currently using to make mine the correct length for a longitudinal servo setup on the K10.

Those links are actually pretty nice. I have the HPI Venture set.

 

[Natedog]

Wow link sets look pretty nice!

 

[soze]

Wow link sets look pretty nice!

Traxxas rod-ends too!

 

[Natedog]

Yes!

 

[Schs2013]

Anyway to get less bind on the steering pivot ball? Without lowering the steering servo?

Not the best picture


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[meatmonkey]

Unthread the Ballstud from the servo horn and put a small spacer, or thin 3mm nut, on the stud then reinstall it into the horn. This will lower the pivot point a couple mm without lowering the entire servo.