aprobert1981
Rock Stacker
Oh I'll go look for it. Don't remember seeing it.
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Tommy R's TTC Build - "Big Oly"
- Thread starter Tommy R
- Start date
Fastball
Newbie
Tommy,
I like the tube work, looks like you are getting some good use out of the bender. "thumbsup" You are right about trying to fit a cage inside of a body, gets even more fun when you are doing it on a 1:1 and the metal is $4 per foot. Bad bends can really tick you off! Most people don't realize that tube stretches when you bend it so getting an exactly placed bend can be a trick. There are a couple of freeware tube bend programs out there that help calculate this and give you exact bend positions. I will see if I can remember what they are and link them to you. I have always used the payware program Bend Tech Pro but some of the free ones work well also. Good Work!
Fastball
I like the tube work, looks like you are getting some good use out of the bender. "thumbsup" You are right about trying to fit a cage inside of a body, gets even more fun when you are doing it on a 1:1 and the metal is $4 per foot. Bad bends can really tick you off! Most people don't realize that tube stretches when you bend it so getting an exactly placed bend can be a trick. There are a couple of freeware tube bend programs out there that help calculate this and give you exact bend positions. I will see if I can remember what they are and link them to you. I have always used the payware program Bend Tech Pro but some of the free ones work well also. Good Work!
Fastball
Fastball
Newbie
Tommy,
I found the link for the freeware tube bending program. Go to jd2.com and look under bend software. I have not used it personally but at first glance it looks allot like Bend Tech in that you calibrate your bender and input its capabilies into the software. Then you draw your tubes and adjust leg lengths etc. It can then output a bend sheet with all of the bend start dimensions. You can even simulate the bend in the software. It might take some tinkering to figure it out since this is a free use at your own risk program. I might work with it some just to see if I like it myself and so I could help get you going using it with my bender design.
Fastball
I found the link for the freeware tube bending program. Go to jd2.com and look under bend software. I have not used it personally but at first glance it looks allot like Bend Tech in that you calibrate your bender and input its capabilies into the software. Then you draw your tubes and adjust leg lengths etc. It can then output a bend sheet with all of the bend start dimensions. You can even simulate the bend in the software. It might take some tinkering to figure it out since this is a free use at your own risk program. I might work with it some just to see if I like it myself and so I could help get you going using it with my bender design.
Fastball
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Thanks, man! The software may come in handy. 
The bender has been working fantastic, by the way! I can't tell you how consistent the bends have been because of it. Very glad I invested in it.
No "real" updates. I did measure and bend up some new front shock hoops for the stock SCX10 units. Looks like they'll just barely clear the hood so no cutting required. I also re-aligned some tubes that were bugging me.
I don't know that I'll get chance to work on it any more 'til next week, though. I'm taking the real Jeep out wheelin' this weekend so I've got some last minute items to finish up on it and won't have time for the RC stuff.
The bender has been working fantastic, by the way! I can't tell you how consistent the bends have been because of it. Very glad I invested in it.No "real" updates. I did measure and bend up some new front shock hoops for the stock SCX10 units. Looks like they'll just barely clear the hood so no cutting required. I also re-aligned some tubes that were bugging me.
I don't know that I'll get chance to work on it any more 'til next week, though. I'm taking the real Jeep out wheelin' this weekend so I've got some last minute items to finish up on it and won't have time for the RC stuff.
dmercier82
Rock Stacker
where did you get those shackles for the leaf springs?
FireWire79
Quarry Creeper
I may be a little late to the party to offer my two cents, but if you are still looking for driveshafts, you may want to go with the classic Revo/Maxx shafts setup. Those drive shafts can take an awesome amount of power, can get stretched out pretty far, and are inexpensive, which is always a plus.
The only issue is that they are 6mm inputs, instead of 5mm, but there is a ton of info on getting them installed. So you should be good to go.
The only issue is that they are 6mm inputs, instead of 5mm, but there is a ton of info on getting them installed. So you should be good to go.
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Thanks, but I went ahead and ordered some RC4WD Punisher II shafts and it looks like they'll be here on Tuesday.
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Last night I put together some shock hoops for the front. I set them up so that with stock height SCX10 shocks (95mm?) they will just come shy of bottoming out at max articulation. In the rear I plan to re-use the stock SCX10 hoops for now. I'll fab something up for them later on.
I also got my RC4WD Punisher II shafts in. They appear beefy, but they sure don't feel smooth due to the textured surface of the splines. For the price I expected perfection, but I'll reserve final judgment 'til they've been tested. The weight sure will help lower my cg. :ror:
I also got my RC4WD Punisher II shafts in. They appear beefy, but they sure don't feel smooth due to the textured surface of the splines. For the price I expected perfection, but I'll reserve final judgment 'til they've been tested.
The weight sure will help lower my cg. :ror:
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ozpall
Quarry Creeper
I also got my RC4WD Punisher II shafts in. They appear beefy, but they sure don't feel smooth due to the textured surface of the splines. For the price I expected perfection, but I'll reserve final judgment 'til they've been tested.
they are as good as you heard, great shafts!
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Good to hear that! I heard the pins in the yokes can back out so I was thinking of taking a center punch to them to wedge in a bit tighter. I may wait to see if that's required first. Maybe they'll hold fine?
Still wish I knew what the difference was between Punisher and Punisher II shafts. Anyone know?
I don't know if mine where Punnisher or II but mine backed out and I was told there is no replacement parts.
Can't go wrong with MIP."thumbsup"
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
I would've gone MIP, actually....but they're not long enough. The longest MIP offered is only 5.25" which would've been barely...maybe...possibly...marginal for my rear driveshaft. And I plan on adding more rear wheelbase soon anyway. So the Punishers were my only choice. Hopefully they'll hold up!
ozpall
Quarry Creeper
i run a 60/40 set up on one of my crawlers so i cut the punisher and add about .5" of tubing and tig welded.
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Started working on the high steer arm tonight since I finally got the band saw and belt sander both put together. As you can see, it will attach to the Vanquish knuckles in two locations (where the pan head screws are) and the forward hole is where the drag link will attach. Obviously, there is still some trimming to be done. I'm using some pretty heavy gauge steel (I think it's 1/8") so I think it will hold up fine.
My only concern now is if I tighten the center screw, the knuckle binds and won't turn. I've got a couple ideas on how to address this. I hope to make or find a bushing that will work, but if not I have another idea that should work. Anyway, here's what I knocked out real quick to test out the new tools. I'll wrap it up tomorrow night after I do my taxes. :roll:
My only concern now is if I tighten the center screw, the knuckle binds and won't turn. I've got a couple ideas on how to address this. I hope to make or find a bushing that will work, but if not I have another idea that should work. Anyway, here's what I knocked out real quick to test out the new tools. I'll wrap it up tomorrow night after I do my taxes. :roll:
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Since I don't have access to a lathe, I think making a bushing may just be too difficult and/or I'll end up with too much slop in the suspension at the knuckle. So I think I'm going to move on to plan B. See the pic below.
The black lines roughly approximate where I'll trim the arm.
The red hole is where I will drill/tap a 2nd hole into the knuckle.
The yellow hole will be a clearance hole for the screw that secures the top of the knuckle.
So the arm will be bolted to the knuckle in two spots. Since this is heavy steel, I think it will be fine, but I suppose time will tell.
The black lines roughly approximate where I'll trim the arm.
The red hole is where I will drill/tap a 2nd hole into the knuckle.
The yellow hole will be a clearance hole for the screw that secures the top of the knuckle.
So the arm will be bolted to the knuckle in two spots. Since this is heavy steel, I think it will be fine, but I suppose time will tell.
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Finished the arm tonight. It's secured to the knuckle with the two panhead screws. The hole the socket cap screw is in is a clearance hole. It feels good to me and I suspect it won't fail, but I can always build a stouter one easily enough if I feel the need. I just wish I'd left more material around the clearance hole, but I'm not worried about it.
I also tied the cage to the shock towers.
I wanted the cage to be removable so I brazed nuts to some brake line and brazed the cage tie-ins to the brake line. Here is it with one shock mocked up. Sorry, I didn't get around to cleaning off all the nasty flux before taking any pics. ;-)
I also tied the cage to the shock towers.
I wanted the cage to be removable so I brazed nuts to some brake line and brazed the cage tie-ins to the brake line. Here is it with one shock mocked up. Sorry, I didn't get around to cleaning off all the nasty flux before taking any pics. ;-)
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Looking good. "thumbsup" That steering arm is a great idea and looks like it sould handle the stress good enough. I wish I could do a BTA tie rod on Guido but the double shocks just won't allow it.
Keep it up. 8)
Keep it up. 8)
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Thanks, Chris! Yeah, I think it'll be fine. I gotta tell ya, I have so much MORE respect for the likes of you and Tim and your abilities after undertaking this build. So many things to consider, so many unforeseen challenges, and so much time required. My Jeep pales in comparison to the amount of work I've put into this thing so far....and it's maybe 1/2 done?? :lmao:
