Tommy R's TTC Build - "Big Oly"

[Duuuuuuuude]

After watching the vid, it sounds like that trans is going to be the issue.



And yeah, I'm that good. :ror:

 

[Tommy R]

You are still running a puller. When I used my 10t I only get 20min as well with a 3s 2100

Also check you Puller springs make sure there in right I threw a spring once.

I have a 35t hand wound in and get well over a hour.

Seriously? That much difference between a puller and 35t? I knew there would be a difference, but 3x is pretty dramatic! I wish my rig were light enough to run with a 35t.

Axial transmission maybe one of your Mip's are locked up. Do you always wd40 them or grease. There could be another battery problem. fixing the power. Take those out and make sure the end rotate nice.

Light marine grease in the trans and the axles are just coated with Corrosion X (very lightweight). I would not have thought the marine grease would be THAT tacky, but maybe so. All u-joints/axles spin pretty freely.

TORQUE TWIST How heavy is this rig now? :ror: I had this problem so I made sway bar system. NO more twist. I see your running a pan bar in front, maybe throw one in the rear to counter it.


Good luck you Bronco is looking good.

It's 10.5 lbs now. It's essentially running droop right now with little oil. I'll raise it a bit, add oil, and re-test it.

And thanks!!

If you think your case is the culprit, Just upggrade to the VP case and be done with it. the fint and finish on tthat thing is spectacular.

Yeah, I'll get the grease out and try again. I've been trying to find a VP case, but they're all sold out! :x

Also, how do your axles spin? Are you using marine grease in them as well?

And I suggest you lube those MIP's like Saydee suggested. Those things are probably binding and rusting after all those runs through the muck.

Axles and everything else spins well. The truck's only mud/water was this past weekend....and it was never submerged or really subjected to much nastiness.

also i think your running 32P spur and pinion? if so they will also be less effecient than 48P. this is why onroad runs 64P for effeciency. but this should really be a non issue, ie splitting hairs. 32P is probly only 5%-8% less effecient than 48P

sounds like others are saying the puller maybe part of the problem as well. which is why i kept saying to try a 540 before :lol: but i think you said you have to run it due to clearance issues?

Yeah, 32p isn't as efficient by a long shot, but there's definitely something else up here. I may end up throwing a 35t in there at some point just for the heck of it, but I suspect it'll be way underpowered. I'm not ruling out a brushless setup. Maybe a 21.5T or 18.5T on 3s or 4s and a Mamba Max Pro?

After watching the vid, it sounds like that trans is going to be the issue.



And yeah, I'm that good. :ror:

Well, to be honest......I think you're probably right!! :ror:


I can't tear the trans out of the truck just yet. I need to do some testing with it first. But I hope to get it out of there in the next few days and will let y'all know what I find. Keep your fingers crossed!

But seriously, in the meantime if someone has some ideas on brushless combos that may work well and provide longer run times, let me know! 8)

 

[0lllllll0]

This is an absolutely outstanding rig!! Excellent work! "thumbsup"

 

[Tommy R]

This is an absolutely outstanding rig!! Excellent work! "thumbsup"

Thanks a lot!

 

[team3six]

Tommy, been following the thread as usual and just keeping in the back.

My truck (Usnick fresher buggy) weighs 12.7 lbs.
I ran a Tekin hand wound 35t in the truck last year. And this year I am running a HH 35t handwound special. Tons of torque, plenty speed. About an hour on 3S 2100mAh turnigy.
now i know this is your TTC truck. But you have to find a balance of what works best.

Now John mentioned I run a 14t pullet, but in all honesty with a 14t pinion, HR internal gears, and an alloy 88t spur. Im not too bad. May not be hustle and bustle over the river and through the woods, but fair enough grunt and go.

With a 4S battery since yoour running the BR-XL, you might look into running a 30t and re gear it for a bit more pow.

Its not always about speed. Sure it helps, but a fair balance of drive goes a long way. Take lessons from the MT guys who drag race or pull. They are running the ole roosters with crawler motors for a reason.

Contact John and ask him for a web weave hand wound. You'll see and feel a differance.

 

[team3six]

BTW, hopefully soon I will have Rocksmith gearjelly back in stock. Im in negotiations of purchasing it from Rocksmith and being the manufacturer of the product.

On a side note.
1. Make sure your pinion and spur is tight together with a piece of standard paper folded in half between the gears. That is the correct space

2. Do not run grease that harms plastic. If anything I would use AE Stealth grease

3. Grease your MiP joints with the supplied Orange grease.

4. Make sure your not binding at full steer. Its common for this to occure.

6. Get rid of the plastic gear. Your heavy, torque can put alot of strain on plastic spurs. You don't see it and most people don't realize it, but the gear does flex under load enough to push against the bearing. You can tell this when you have driven this for a few hours, your spur edges will fray. Specifically. The part closest to the tranny if forward motion.

Not saying you don't know these things, but hopefully my advice will help you.

 

[Tommy R]

Norm, you make a pretty compelling argument in favor of running a more conventional motor. Do you have any video of this rig with that motor in it? I have a few run of the mill 35T motors. Maybe I'll slap one in there for the heck of it. If it does reasonably well, I may consider a HH handwound of some sort. And definitely let me know if/when you get some gear jelly in stock!

On a side note.
1. Make sure your pinion and spur is tight together with a piece of standard paper folded in half between the gears. That is the correct space

Pinion/spur mesh is good. No issues there. Years of racing with 48p and 64p forced me to learn how to set them up well! :ror:

2. Do not run grease that harms plastic. If anything I would use AE Stealth grease

This is one thing I fear. I wonder if my marine grease in the trans case compromised it. I have a new plastic case I'll use after I clean out all the internals.

3. Grease your MiP joints with the supplied Orange grease.

I need some! I didn't get any grease with my MIP purchase.

4. Make sure your not binding at full steer. Its common for this to occure.

Good there. I made sure there was no binding lock to lock.

6. Get rid of the plastic gear. Your heavy, torque can put alot of strain on plastic spurs. You don't see it and most people don't realize it, but the gear does flex under load enough to push against the bearing. You can tell this when you have driven this for a few hours, your spur edges will fray. Specifically. The part closest to the tranny if forward motion.

I hear ya, but this 32p gear really seems to be holding up quite well. I'll keep that upgrade in mind, though.

Not saying you don't know these things, but hopefully my advice will help you.

No worries! I'm always appreciative of others' input. Even if it's not new info. it's another perspective and that can be very helpful! "thumbsup"

 

[HotRodJosh]

Years of racing with 48p and 64p forced me to learn how to set them up well! :ror:

Years of racing also teaches one that the lower the motor turn, the more power it eats....haha

You'll get 'er figured out Tommy...."thumbsup"

 

[Tommy R]

Smart ass! :ror:

 

[Tommy R]

I gave the Bronco a little attention today. And yes, I mean just a little. :ror: I found out that the hexes I was using (from an old TLT axle I acquired) were rubbing against the bearings causing drag. Certainly that was not helping my short run times! In addition, I found that two of the hubs had some fishing line wrapped around them. So I cleared that out, too. Is that why my 3500 maH of batteries were only giving ~20 minute run times?

Well today I did some winch testing and did about 10 minutes of crawling in the backyard. Afterward I charged up my batteries and I used up about 1000 maH. So I think I may be closer to ~30 minute run times now. I feel a little better about my run times now, but I really need to run a whole pack(s) through it before I decide if these fixes really helped that much. I still haven't removed the transmission to check it. I'm actually beginning to think it may be okay. I'll remove it within the next few days.

BUT, I did get a new toy last week for Big Oly.... :mrgreen:

Here's a short video trying out the Ripsaws on a stepped climb in my backyard. I was never able to make this climb with the Swampers. 8)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dmvu9lUBFzI

I also did some winch line testing for Norm. Here's two videos I made documenting the tests of both lines he provided.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXNiXtIVyJE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_O1v3eYJzI

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

I fawkin' hate fishing line. :evil: One of my favorite spots is a primo fishing area and the bastards leave big wads of it laying around. I have to make sure I bring a pocket knife with me when I go.

Good to see you're getting it narrowed down though. I'm still betting there is something going on in the transmission. It just sounds like its working really really hard.

 

[Tommy R]

LOL! Yeah, it sucked! :ror: But I was actually relieved to see it 'cause it helped make me feel better about my short run times. But the drag from the hexes was substantial. In fact, if I tightened the wheel nuts enough the puller couldn't even rotate the front axle at all! :shock: That's some serious binding!

I need to remove my Sidewinder ESC to put in my drifter and install the HH BR-XL into Oly again. When I do that I'll also remove the tranny from the Bronco and check it out. Vanquish still doesn't have their aluminum cases in stock, but if this one is damaged I do have another stock plastic case to use. "thumbsup"

 

[Tommy R]

Oh yeah! I forgot to mention... So the truck had a lot more torque twist than ever before at the last get together. Well, I just noticed that the LF shock busted a seal and was emptied of all oil. I'm not saying that's the cause for the new twisting action, but I'm sure it wasn't helping!

 

[team3six]

What size shock you use? I have some that will be perfect for it if they are the right size and the are new.

 

[Tommy R]

I'm running the Axial aluminums up front (coilovers) with the 64mm shafts for more droop travel. Using stock 50mm shafts in the rears.

 

[team3six]

That first help me. Will 4" shocks work?

 

[Tommy R]

Hmmm, not sure. I assume 4" is the extended length? What's the compressed length?

 

[HotRodJosh]

Dig the tires.....

And yer truck looks good too....;-)

 

[team3six]

Don't know the compressed, im away for the week. But eyelet to eyelet is 4".
Maybe I'll. Just send them to you. If you like them they would be $30.00. If not Ill grab them from you at MSD's

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

allitle late, but yeah it was those hexes for sure. ive had the same thing happen with those old hexs. puts a MAJOR drag on the driveline when they bottom out agains the axle housing. and o yeah, nice hammers :lmao: