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Traxxas Summit (from stock to super)

So i just came in from running it around my apt with the new setup and a fresh pack. With the body off the esc stays cool enough and after 20 minutes of bashing around and crawling the rocks i got cold and came inside. The pack was still at 11.4v. Its was only one of my Hong Kong 2200mah lipos so that should show you how inefficient the stock electronics are. Once i find a 7t puller i might drop down to two 7.4v 5000mah packs in parallel and just drive the thing all day long.

Cost to this point is minimal.
Mamba Max $100 (used)
11.1v Lipo $20 (ebay)
Nomadio Transciever $80 (new)
HH 7t Puller $80 (still shopping for one)
CCBEC $20 (new)

Most of this stuff was laying around my workroom anyway. It might seem like alot but i saw the stock motor and esc already selling on ebay for 100 bucks and i might be able to trade someone the radio for the HH puller. I think the body and lighted bumpers would also be a good seller if you wanted to really hack it up to make a crawler so you might actually be able to recoup all your upgrade costs to this point. I only mention this stuff because alot of people have sticker shock when they see the price tag for the RTR. So its not going to turn out too expensive over the intitial cost.
 
I will have the pullers done in a few days here if you can't find a trade, just made a trip over to my local machinist that has them.


It is cool that you still have an og revolver! I only managed to grab two for myself out of all the ones I sold.
 
I will have the pullers done in a few days here if you can't find a trade, just made a trip over to my local machinist that has them.


It is cool that you still have an og revolver! I only managed to grab two for myself out of all the ones I sold.

I have 2 of them now with the quark33 pro cars for a hybrid moa setup. Ill frame them up for you when im done with them with a little plaque so you dont forget where you started."thumbsup"
 
I did some crawling last night with mine in my basement we have a gtg tonight and i will get a vid of it crawling it works ok but need to get rid of some punch and slow down first gear a little its real tight in my basement so there are places the summit wont go look for vid tommorow.
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I did some crawling last night with mine in my basement we have a gtg tonight and i will get a vid of it crawling it works ok but need to get rid of some punch and slow down first gear a little its real tight in my basement so there are places the summit wont go look for vid tommorow.

Damn the yellow turned out cool. I didnt get a whole lot of choice in the body color on mine since it was the last one they had and i didnt want to wait 6 weeks for the next shipment of them. Ill be pulling the body off soon to find something lighter anyway so ill suffer with boring white for now at least"thumbsup"
 
Just a little update. I changed the body and moved the bumpers around. I was actually going to run without the bumpers but the lights are alot of fun and since i got them modded to not be in the way i left them on. The stock body just sits way too high and is heavy. It looks good and the rollcage works (trust me) it just wasnt going to be competitive.

I've had this body painted for awhile. I was going to do an orange pearl over camo similar to one of my old 2.2 comp bodies but the orange pearl didnt spray like i wanted so it turned into a dirty creamsicle. I was going to throw it away but it grew on me and i kinda like the wierd orange now.

Also put on some Maxx sized Badlands on XTM deep offset dish rims to narrow the track a little (like 6 inches worth, lol) to get through the gates a little easier. I think we will have enough people for a super class at our next comp and since the 2009 rules concerning supers WB arent out yet im going to run it and see how it does. Still no dig or 4WS but unlocking the diffs will make this thing turn on a dime so we will see.

Right now it still has the stock motor in it but my cobalt puller should be here in time for the comp.



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I wont 1 now lol.They are hugh like i thiught the axial ax10 was big i was wrong.lol.video please:-P
 
if you want huge....build a super!"thumbsup"


Aside from wheelbase its bigger than most supers. The stock tires are 8 inches in diameter and its about 14 inches wide and 6 inches of ground clearance. In all honesty i think it will be more fun than most supers. You can compete with it then go bashing around. The best of both worlds. I think we will be running supers at our next locals comp so we will see how it does vs a couple dedicated clod based supers. "thumbsup"
 
This will make it's way to St. George this weekend right?


Of course! Im gonna be blasting it around the rocks as soon as the courses are done saturday. Got some new batteries for it. 4000mah nimh 7cell packs. going to wire them in parallel to just run it all day long. I think the cobalt puller will be happier with less voltage also.
 
Weelllllllllllllllllllllllll, I have good news and not as good news.

The good news, the puller came in and mounted up beautifully, it almost looks sexy in there.
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The bad news, The puller didnt like being in the summit at all. Its picked up many bad habits since being installed like speeding, whining and ..... smoking.

Not a big deal really but it was HUGE fun on 11.1v until it started smoking like i set a cherry bomb off under the body. I honesty wish it really did work though, this thing was so smooth and controllable i could hold balanced wheelies with it. The next experiment is a 4300kv brushless inrunner.

(This is in no way a reflection on JRH or his product, i had to try it even though he told me it was pushing the limits of what this motor is designed for. I'm only posting it as a 'what didnt work' for everyone elses information as this build moves forward)
 
One additional piece of information on this. It crawls really well, like a shafty should. My only issue with its crawling ability so far is with all the switching gears and unlocking diffs there is alot of play in the driveline between all 4 wheels. As long as you keep moving forward you dont notice but when you let off the gas it shifts. 1/8th of a turn of a wheel doesnt sound like much but when the wheels are 8 inches in diameter and all 4 wheels are doing it it can mean the difference between holding a position and falling over backwards. "thumbsup"
 
I used a 18v motor from a ryobi drill,it has a lot more torque than the stocker.This motor is the same or extremly simular to the Kershaw designs set up .Also running 3s in series off a MMM... 6S rocks.So far so good , no problems at all.Mine is used mostly for formula off road type bashing but I have thrown it in low lock a few times just for grins.

PS you have a PM.
 
Shame the motor didnt work, but thanks for taking one for the team. :-(
Sorry if you mentioned it before, but what tires are you using now? You said 8" dia?

I have a similar build starting, I am doing an E-Revo crawler,
with RC4WD 40 series Crusher tires that are 8.25" tall.
I am going to try a Titan 775 motor with mine and see how that does.
Have my eye on those 12V Dewalt motors also.

~John

I switch back and forth. The stock wheels are the ones i was referring to there but it happens with the maxx sized badlands also. I have had better crawling results with the badlands over the stockers so far. On the erevo the slipping might not be as much of an issue but i was checking it out last night and there is alot of play from the drive shafts themselves so i might start looking for some metal ones.

I used a 18v motor from a ryobi drill,it has a lot more torque than the stocker.This motor is the same or extremly simular to the Kershaw designs set up .Also running 3s in series off a MMM... 6S rocks.So far so good , no problems at all.Mine is used mostly for formula off road type bashing but I have thrown it in low lock a few times just for grins.

PS you have a PM.

I have an 18v ryobi sitting here but its my primary so im not going to take it apart..... yet;-). I got your PM.
 
What about stretching the chassis itself instead of trying to move the suspension further forward and back. That way you could keep the stock suspension geometry fairly easily. Just a thought.
 
What about stretching the chassis itself instead of trying to move the suspension further forward and back. That way you could keep the stock suspension geometry fairly easily. Just a thought.

The plan im working on now simply moves the diffs further apart without changing the suspension. The chassis itself is a molded plastic tub. The new one will be aluminum and delrin.
 
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