Trump's just another Axial Jeep Rubicon kit build.

[Trump1]

Rock Sliders:



I'm using a brass tube for the rock slider and a solid brass rod for the support pieces. I started with a long tube and cut it down. Here is a photo of one of the cut pieces.

I used a brass rod for the support pieces. I shaped a notch on one end so the piece would be a good fit against the rock slider.

Here's one rock slider almost complete.

Here are the rock sliders almost complete.

Next step is to install the mounting plates. Here's the mock up.

I had a problem with the second mounting plate. When I lifted the rock slider to emerge it into water the mounting plate fell off. I cleaned the pieces and tried it a second time, but I would not stick to the rod. So I moved over to my plywood work table. After moving to my plywood table I noticed some moisture on my work table. The moisture prevented the mounting plate from getting hot enough for the solder to stick. All it took was a little moisture from preventing the pieces to get hot enough to melt and form a good weld.

Here are the rock sliders with the mounting plates installed.

The next step was to install end caps on the tubes.

Here's the other end.

The next step is a little trickier. I have to drill holes into the mounting plates and get those holes to line up with the holes on the frame.

 

[Trump1]

I got a lot of work done yesterday. Powder coated my rear bumper and rock sliders:

Close up of the handle. I also installed the tow shackles.

Next step will be to install the electronics.

 

[hlrider130]

Lookin good sir!!

 

[Trump1]

Lookin good sir!!

Thanks buddy.

 

[T I N Y]

I like the scratch built items. I also make a lot of my own parts. There's nothing like the feeling of "YEP I MADE THAT"...:mrgreen:

 

[Trump1]

I like the scratch built items. I also make a lot of my own parts. There's nothing like the feeling of "YEP I MADE THAT"...:mrgreen:

Thank you. Building your own stuff is fun too. Sometimes one can build it for less and sometimes it cost more, but it's fun. I put in about eight hours yesterday just on powder coating and making a handle for my Jeep G6 build.

Thanks again.

 

[Jake Ewing]

That chrome is one of a kind! Also that rear bumper looks pretty cool! Keep up the good work! "thumbsup"

 

[Trump1]

That chrome is one of a kind! Also that rear bumper looks pretty cool! Keep up the good work! "thumbsup"

Thank you Jake. Bill from BGR Fabrications liked what I did with his front bumper and was interested in trying chrome.

The rear bumper is the second one I have made. The first one was for my Axial - ProLine Rubicon Wrangler. If you want to see it click here.

Thanks again.

 

[Trump1]

I wanted to waterproof my motor before installing my electronics. Originally, before ordering my ROC 412, I thought I would disassemble the motor and coat the electronics inside with silicone. I first used this technique on my SCX10 Toyota Hi Lux (see post #10). But after inspecting the motor I went another route.

This is what I did. First, I inspected the motor and sensor cable.

Where the wires enter the plug one can see the metal connectors.


Looking at the motor I can see that around the plug for the sensor cable are small openings where water could enter.

It looks like water can enter around where the posts are too.

On the side where the motor is mounted to the mounting plate there are holes for the M3 screws. My first thought was just to fill the extra holes with silicone. Instead of that, I'm going to go to the hardware store for some M3 set screws to plug the extra holes. If I don't find any that fit, then I'll use silicone.

So going back to the sensor cable. I added silicone around where the wires enter the plug. Now you can't see the wire metal connectors.

Flipping over the senor cable, here is the other side.

Plugging in the sensor to the plug is a very tight fit. I doubt any water will get in. Nevertheless, after plugging the sensor cable in I'll add a little silicone around the plug.



Moving on to the sensor plug, I added silicone around the plug.

A side shot.

Next, are the posts. Here is a close up of the post before adding silicone. You can see the opening where water could get in.

Here's how it looks after adding silicone around the bottom of the posts.

Here's a close up of the back side of the posts.

Once I solder the wires onto the posts, I'll put more silicone around the posts to prevent water from causing a short.


Lastly, there is a small square hole where water could get into the motor. I just put some silicone.

Here's a close up.

Anyway, this is my attempt to waterproof the ROC 412. Now, I can start installing my electronics on the chassis.

 

[pelucas]

nice truck, I have been thinking about the waterproofing of roc412, does it work out for you?

 

[Trump1]

nice truck, I have been thinking about the waterproofing of roc412, does it work out for you?

I guess I'll find out one of these days. I believe the silicone will work. I've used it before and it's so easy to apply. Honestly, I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

It's never really waterproof until one actually does a test. Then one can say it's waterproof. So time will tell when I take that first dip.

Thank you for commenting.

 

[Trump1]

Electronics:

I made a plate and drilled holes into it to hold my boxes for the electronics.

I added some silicone to the holes of the Traxxas box.

Installed the Traxxas box.

And here's the way the installation looks.

Next step is to work on a battery holder. I'm going to try and come up with a simple design.

 

[T I N Y]

Make sure to put more silicone around the sensor wire after you plug it in on both the motor and esc.The water will get in between the plug and the plug hole. I know it sounds weird...lol
This is one of those times where more really is better.

 

[Trump1]

Make sure to put more silicone around the sensor wire after you plug it in on both the motor and esc.The water will get in between the plug and the plug hole. I know it sounds weird...lol
This is one of those times where more really is better.

Thank you. I was planning on putting more silicone around the plug even though it's a very tight fit. Like you said more is better.

 

[Trump1]

Sorry I haven't provided an updated in awhile. Something that I had to deal with unexpectedly came up. I'm feeling a little better now.

Battery Holder:

I started with a piece of aluminum.

"The first cut is the deepest", but in this case it was the longest. I had to stop and take a break, so I snapped a photo. Hacksaw Reynolds I'm not ...

In the most simplest form, this would be a battery holder. The only thing I would do is replace the self tapping screws with a screw and nylon locking nut. However, I couldn't stop here and took it a few steps further.

I added a couple of bends.

I bolted the battery holder onto the plate and added some brackets.

And here is my battery holder.

Side view.

I like the way it came out and that it sits kind of low.

 

[Trump1]

ESC Setup.

I have my ESC setup. I used 1/4" grommets to run the wires out of the Axial Rx box to the motor. I used the original opening to run the sensor cable and other wires. Later I plan on using black silicone to improve the appearance and get a little more silicone around the Axial Rx box.

Little by little, brick by brick .... it's getting there.

 

[Trump1]

Wheels:

I took my spare wheel and did this to it.

Started with this:

And came up with this ...

Here's a before and after side by side comparison photo:

Now I have four more wheels to do.

 

[Trump1]

Electronics continued:

I made a switch holder. I may not keep it if I end up using a switch for my Rx too. I'll have to re-design the switch holder If I do end up going with an Rx switch.

Top view:

To be continued ...

 

[wsmb]

thanks for the battery tray again and helping a noob out

 

[Trump1]

thanks for the battery tray again and helping a noob out

You're welcome. I'm always willing to help out. See you on the rocks next year.