Unimog AKA "Radio" budget build

[Shinjari]

Ok so thats color for the cage...what about chassis rails/boatsides?

Chassis: desert tan (kind of give it a more military look)
Cage: matte black
Boat sides: matte black

or everything matte black? lol

Also I'm going to cut some of the rear off, just wont be too much since the dinky cantilever goes pretty far back without me messing with suspension geometry.

or

Every

 

[eric113]

Clear coat the cage as is. The black will get chipped off and scratched.

 

[Shinjari]

Clear coat the cage as is. The black will get chipped off and scratched.

This is true, so sandblast the entire thing (chassis/cage/boat sides) clean and clear coat it? Wont the silver take away from the rugged/military look?

May have to see what it looks like after its been blasted and go from there. I do like the idea of the "raw" cage look. "thumbsup"

Eric113, how are your portals? You seem to be the mog master here. What are your thoughts on whats available?

 

[eric113]

This is true, so sandblast the entire thing (chassis/cage/boat sides) clean and clear coat it? Wont the silver take away from the rugged/military look?

May have to see what it looks like after its been blasted and go from there. I do like the idea of the "raw" cage look. "thumbsup"

Eric113, how are your portals? You seem to be the mog master here. What are your thoughts on whats available?

I ran my mog raw steel for few years. Wish I never painted it now.

For the portals. I been running them on most my rigs for years. Without much trouble. This been on 27t Holmes and worn out 35t Integy motor on 3s and 4s.

Back in April I ran the Co scale comp with Holmes 13.5t brushless on 3s last course of the day and raining. I broke a axial cvd inner shaft.(this cvd was old)But, I was pushing my rig hard and taking 4'-6'ft falls.

I'm far from a mog master.

 

[Bananaclip]

If you decide to run it clear I would leave it alone to gather a little patina. Or maybe don't clear it at all. Leave the bare metal. I would go flat black clear coat chips to.......

 

[Shinjari]

That would be interesting to have some surface rust all over the chassis haha. So basically sand blast the chassis/cage clean, erbuild rig....run rig with raw steel and let it rust over time? Clear coat when happy? Or let it keep rusting?

Eric113, you run modified 3racing portals right?

 

[eric113]

That would be interesting to have some surface rust all over the chassis haha. So basically sand blast the chassis/cage clean, erbuild rig....run rig with raw steel and let it rust over time? Clear coat when happy? Or let it keep rusting?

Eric113, you run modified 3racing portals right?

Yes sir modded 3racing. I'm trying to build shapeway portals.

 

[Bananaclip]

That would be interesting to have some surface rust all over the chassis haha. So basically sand blast the chassis/cage clean, erbuild rig....run rig with raw steel and let it rust over time? Clear coat when happy? Or let it keep rusting?

Eric113, you run modified 3racing portals right?

The rust would never get to the point it would become troublesome. Basically surface rust. It would look pretty killer on that beige Mog.....:mrgreen:

 

[Big Bill]

I personally like the direction your going with your build. I like the body color, for the frame and cage I would go a matte black. I too have been a fan of Mogs for years since I first saw chino63s Mog years ago, he is the Mog Master. Seeing yours has me thinking about trying one myself, nice job"thumbsup".

 

[Shinjari]

Thanks Big Bill, I've always enjoyed a good mog build and am stoked I get to have one in the fleet.

Waiting on fab tabs to continue the floor, but even then unless they arrive tomorrow I won't be able to get any work done on it until easily the weekend of the 20th or 26th. =/

 

[Shinjari]

Well this build finally got some much needed attention. Currently at work so can't post pics but its more or less done with the exception of adding scale bits to the bed area.

Will add pics tonight.

 

[Prime]

Wow!
This Mog has me wanting to build one.
Great job, can't wait to see more.

 

[Shinjari]

Here are the some of the progress pics.

Figured out the layout of things and what not so I proceeded to disassemble everything and painted the cage in gunmetalish metallic gray. I mocked up the floor and trans cover. Also placed all the electronics where I wanted. Yes I know...the MMP is floating there, that wasn't its final resting place :lmao:









After

 

[Shinjari]

I then made the real bed which fit better after I got the hole spacing correct and also fit the build better. It's scale diamond plate. Used Lockedup RC scale hardware to hold it in place. In retrospect I wish the hardware for the bed was black but I cannot seem to find black m3 hardware.

Also I swapped out the SSD aluminum cover for their HD cover. Just didn't like the lower hardware being prone to rock rash/damage, which may make it difficult to remove the cover down the line.

 

[Shinjari]

So more progress pics of this rig. Decided not to go with the diamond plated box and covered it with wood instead. Then I painted it army green and weathered it with a wire brush while it was still drying. Gave it some good texture.

The last pic shows the space beetween the spare and the bumper. I may trim the bumper mount to tuck it in more or opt for another bumper. I do like this one though as it matches the front one.










Decided the box by itself was a tad sparse. So I added a gas can, an Axial ammo can, propane tank, R2J winch anchor (not pictured), tow strap and a hilift jack.

Now it looks more complete and ready to hit the trails! "thumbsup"

 

[Shinjari]

So I was one of the fortunate people get in on MadMoose RC's portal preproduction run. This is just going to be a slew of pictures.












So here are pictures of the rig with built SSD D60 axles. Clearance at the skid and both pumpkins. Seems roughly 2" at the skid and less than 1" (3/4"ish) at the pumpkin. That is a 1.9 axial walker evan plastic wheel. It is 1.9" diameter and 1" wide. Also that is a 1.9 Ottsix KLR tire.







Here are the pics after I installed the fancy new axles. Need to make slightly longer rear uppers to get it to clock better but the wheel base is spot on. Rears was an interesting issue as they are made for a (4) coilover shock configuration. I'm running the dinkyrc cantilever setup. I was able to figure something out. Just needed longer hardware and I was able to mount to the axle just perfectly.








So as you can see with the portals you gain some serious skid and pumpkin clearance. Same width as scx10 axles. Link geometery is not drop in so you'll have to make new links for the panhard/drag link and rear uppers. At least that was my experience.

Only complaint is how it increases the body height a bit. I'm going to remove my shock bump stops to see if I can lower the height. I did like the way it looked and performed with the standard axles....nice, low slung and mean looking, but it caught on everything on the trail. With portals I suppose this is more accurate as to a real unimog would be anyways. Let me know what you think! "thumbsup"

 

[eric113]

Have you thought about outboarding your rear shocks? On my setup I put the setup to outside of the frame rails. It made it feel alot more stable and also put the link more inline and took the inwards angle back to straight.

 

[Shinjari]

Have you thought about outboarding your rear shocks? On my setup I put the setup to outside of the frame rails. It made it feel alot more stable and also put the link more inline and took the inwards angle back to straight.

Hi Eric, unfortunately due to the cage design that option is more than likely no longer available to me. As you can see in the picture below, the boat sides come up that far. Maybe in retrospect I should've stuck using a traditional veritcal shock configuration but this cantilever setup works great and tucks away nicely. I suppose I could achieve the outboarding still by shifting them a little to he rear but going to try it in this configuration as that is what I am accustomed to on this rig. My only concern is the positioning of the lower ball end on the rear axle. The way I have it installed it doesn't allow it to pivot much and is more like a rigid mount than benefitting from the ball end pivot motion.

Overall this is probably my best performing rig (out of the 4 I have, awaiting the 5th), but that was with the lower CG. We will see how much of a change increasing the ride height affected its crawlability. As mentioned I think I can lower it more if I remove the bump stops in the front and shorten the links for the cantilever setup in the rear. May have to make some limiting straps to limit the amount of unloading in the front. "thumbsup"