Water Proofing Electronics

[CGReload]

Lipos are inherently water resistant by nature. The cells have to keep air out and keep volatile solvents in to be a stable battery, the pouches or cells are very well sealed in this regard. Unless the cells are put into an extremely high pressure or low pressure environment, you can consider them water proof. The plug (both power and balance) is the worst of your worries, it will corrode over time if not cared for occasionally with some cleaning and drying. If the battery uses a PCB to terminate the cells, corrosion can cause some self discharge or errors on the charge port. That's really the only worry.

Wow, I've been using Lipos for RC Airplanes for years and I didnt even know that!

Very interesting stuff, thanks for all the info! "thumbsup"

 

[Nastyn8]

Question. Ive read motor leads are not much to worry about with waterproofing. I’ve also read that battery plugs/terminals need extra attention for waterproofing. If this is the case, do I have to worry about the bare soldered battery terminals on my “waterproof” esc?

 

[4WheelRC]

Question. Ive read motor leads are not much to worry about with waterproofing. I’ve also read that battery plugs/terminals need extra attention for waterproofing. If this is the case, do I have to worry about the bare soldered battery terminals on my “waterproof” esc?

Exposed motor or battery terminals will work if wet, or even under fresh water, but I'd recommend you cover them with Plastidip, silicone sealant, dielectric grease etc. to reduce corrosion over time, especially if underwater: Have a look at 16:40 into this underwater test video I did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilHMydlW7j0 . . . you can see bubbles coming off the exposed Deans plug!

Beware salt water. Well, just don't go near salt water with your RC as it'll corrode it to death. To be honest putting your RC into any sort of water will cause corrosion metal parts and no matter how much marine grease you pack bearings and axles with the water will get in eventually, so submerge at your own risk! ;-)

 

[Nastyn8]

Wow, pretty cool video. Thanks for the info. I’ve been using a liquid electrical tape. I just filled the bec shrink wrap with it and filled the sensor port on my motor for now. (Until someday I get a sensored esc) I’ll use it on the battery terminals on the esc. But in the plugs I’ll use dielectric grease.

 

[4WheelRC]

Wow, pretty cool video. Thanks for the info. I’ve been using a liquid electrical tape. I just filled the bec shrink wrap with it and filled the sensor port on my motor for now. (Until someday I get a sensored esc) I’ll use it on the battery terminals on the esc. But in the plugs I’ll use dielectric grease.

When you go sensored, make sure you waterproof the hall-effect sensors in the motor 8): https://youtu.be/wS_WyUEdO50?t=897 (due to the harsh environment and temperature changes I recommend epoxy for this, not liquid electricl tape, Plastidip or conformal coating).

 

[jbeech]

I wrote this for our servos, because despite them having 13 o-rings, the words waterproof never cross my lips. I believe you may find something useful regarding making your servo more water resistant if you read it.


https://www.promodeler.com/askJohn/Waterproof-vs-water-resistant


My 2¢

 

[CD02]

Just a quick tip I found to work for my electronics. You can cover stuff in rubber cement to waterproof it. I have used it on receivers and mini ESC's Just make sure you don't miss a spot or two, It's really hard to see where it is and isn't when you apply it.

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

Good writeup John. We have found that moisture will readily travel down the wire jackets as well. Putting some grease at the PCB where the wire jackets stop will put a halt to it for a while, but moisture just hides and waits between the wires and insulation. Multistrand wire is particularly good at being a conduit of water.

 

[Lord_Fabricator]

So, back on page 12 I saw a question about using a small pelican case as an electronics box (a cheaper, easier to repair option over all these dips and epoxies. I do not have any pictures of what I did (which is a good thing because it wasn't pretty). I used a dremel to cut a slot long enough to lay all 4 channels and the battery leads side by side. After feeding them all through, I sealed the slot with sealing caulk, then very carefully sliced off an eighth inch of sheathing from every wire and poured white glue in until the unscripted wire was submerged. Keeping the wires taut while it dries kept them apart, and then a final coating of caulk to keep the wires in place if the glue did get wet. It worked very well for an actual ROV submersible for 6 months.

 

[BashNSlash]

Any tips to waterproofing our transmitters during rainy weather crawls? I'm getting pretty tired of walking around with a clear grocery bag around my hand [emoji23][emoji23]

 

[4WheelRC]

Any tips to waterproofing our transmitters during rainy weather crawls? I'm getting pretty tired of walking around with a clear grocery bag around my hand [emoji23][emoji23]

Depends on your transmitter type (pistol or stick), quite a few options for sticks e.g. this waterproof warmer with clear window? I got a Turnigy one from HobbyKing a couple of years back, but their version is discontinued now.

 

[BashNSlash]

Depends on your transmitter type (pistol or stick), quite a few options for sticks e.g. this waterproof warmer with clear window? I got a Turnigy one from HobbyKing a couple of years back, but their version is discontinued now.

Waterproofing sticks is easy, but I only roll with pistol grips for my surface rc's.

 

[JameCurious]

Currently i am using RTV clear silicone, it works very well.

 

[caprinut]

Sorry for dragging up an old thread.

In the past I've used balloons and sillicone with great succes!
Usually fitted the esc into the balloon, clear sillicone in the end and working it in around wires with your finger outside the balloon.
The a zip tie, and about 1/2" outside that another zip tie.
I used the smallest zip ties.
Mine never failed, the second zip tie is there if the first one fails.
My vehicles of that time spent most of the time in the wet, and a lots of times under the water or wading.
Only issue 10 years down the line was the balloons have turned to gel some places and was pretty stuck to the esc.
But esc worked flawlessly (Tamiya TEU101BK).
Used the same method for receiver.
Hitec 645MG was as waterproof as you could get, and never failed a beat.
I opned it several times after having the vehicle under water, and usually the was only one or two drops of water inside.
Savöx was crap, it freaked when driving over a puddle, and it was noicy and thirsty in consumption.
I will never own a Savöx again, there so many great brands out there now.


Wanted to try something new (for me) a week ago.
On my bench I have 30min Zap Z-Poxy which does not shrink, which is a must I have read.

First I made a mouldbox in .020 styrene to hold my cheap Yeah Racing Winch Controller.


The winch controller lived in a case that was far too big, and it had a bulky white 4 pin connector at the end and undersized wires.
I removed all of them and soldered new JST plugs and wires to it.
Also soldered a wire where it stood antenna on the board which was missing, but have not a clue if it has helped any..


After coating the box with carwax which I don't know is necessary, I lad a thin bed of epoxy before I dipped the controller in the mouldbox.
After that I covered it with more epoxy.


After one hour I pulled the box apart and this is the result.
Was a bit gummy, but hardened fine later that evening.
And still works at it should "thumbsup"
Also the whole block now glows from the led when in use :mrgreen:


I still have my esc and other stuff to do.
This will work very fine for me.
Coating will fail after a while, epoxy will not if correct type is used.
My receiver is coated with clear nail polish, and that works brilliant too after several years of use

Sorry if pics is too big, Photobucket has just renewed their site so the size may be changed from last time I used it.

 

[AndrewRC]

For the receiver I just used conformal coating. You do have to take the receiver apart and make sure not to cover the bins button and the plug posts. I was told 3 coats was a good amount by someone wiser than me.

 

[LeoRox]

Re: Poor man's electrical box

Nice, Great idea