What SBC Should I Build?

[chino63]

Are you going to upgrade the rear end? Which 10 bolt is in it? 7.5" ring gear, 8.2", 8.5"? How much power are you looking to build? Smog test required? What's your budget? I'd stick with a mild 350 for a daily driver. I've been running a fairly healthy 350 for several years with a basically stock bottom end, makes between 430-450HP, pleanty of oomph. If you run a manual trans, you might start to tear things up. They are fun but can be hard on the rest of the car if you drive like me.

I have seen several 383 stroker kits for well under a grand with Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons. Nice kits with name brand bearings, etc. Just remember you will need to run a 400 balancer and flex plate or flywheel as most kits are externally balanced. As far as a cam, there are many small base circle cams available from most manufacturers. Block clearancing is required as well as a clearanced rail oil pan in most cases. Things can really add up if you are not careful. Good luck!

 

[cutlaSS]

There are too many to take it to account before I could choose. If your rotating assemble is reusable, I'd say 355. Add some flat tops, rebuild rods w/ ARP bolts, polish crank and chamfer oil holes, slap on some Vortecs with and RPM Air Gap, maybe a Lunati Voodoo w/ around 230 @ .050, and a 2800-3000 stall and you'll be smiling all day. When you 7.5 blows get a Olds 442 8.5, I'd rather have the 3.73s rather than the 3.42 in the GN 8.5s.

Goodluck with your Monte. I need to get another G-body.

 

[microgoat]

How big a tire can you jam in the stock fenders? All the motor in the world won't help if you can't hook it up; are you prepared to minitub it?

 

[Shaun]

How big a tire can you jam in the stock fenders? All the motor in the world won't help if you can't hook it up; are you prepared to minitub it?

I probably wont be tubing it. I'm not sure exactly what the max size tire is I can fit is, I had figured it up, and had it written down somewhere, I wish I could find that paper now .

I'll probably get some Drag Radials for the weekends at the track, and run Radial T/As during daily driver duty.

I have been thinking about the manual trans, and I really don't want to have to go through a lot of crap right now, and I'm not even sure if thats what I "really want". I have just decided to do a Rebuild on the 200 and toss some little things in it. I don't want a T5, and to do a T-56 I will end up with about $3000 in the swap. There is alot of other things that it needs right now. But some day I will swap in a T-56.

Now I can't decide to go with the 355, or 383. In all honesty a stout 355 would probably be enough for me, and I should be able to hit high 12's with it.

Thanks for all the input guys, its greatly appreciated. "thumbsup""thumbsup"

 

[Mikekx65]

I would stick with the 355...unless you know exactly what you are doing when rebuilding a motor i would stay away from the stroker kit....It may seem like a really good deal but there are so many things that can be overlooked when building a motor and you will end up messing somthing up. I havent messed with chevy motors but when i considered stroking my 302 i did my research and it just wasnt worth it at this time....Get you block cleaned up and if it needs it get it boared out a bit. Get yourself a nice intake heads cam ignition etc....Stay away from the T-5...Mine only lasted 10 passes at the track...Do you plan on going to the track alot?

 

[maxxrookie]

355 is a lot cheaper than a 383 but ull get more torque out of a 383 and with the weight of that car 15 x 10 in the rear will be fine and as far as a stall goes if u drive it everyday then dont go to big 2500 max edelbrock power package guarantees 410 hp and as far as boring goes the only difference between .030 and .060 is about 5 hp and it would be smarter to do .030 if u can because say u went .060 and blew it up you couldnt reuse the block you would need another because .060 is the most you can bore for the street but if its race only you can do .080 the reason why is the more you bore it the more it will want to over heat anymore questions just ask

 

[jcnalley]

I personally would build a 383. They are huge torque motors (if you know what you are doing). Someone made a good point about only boring it .030 to give yourself a little more cylinder wall. It's been awhile since I've done the math, but I think a 350 block .030 over + crank and rods from a 400 = 377 cu. in.

 

[TattooKenny]

I have a 68 Chevy C-10 with a 383 in it....you wont be sorry"thumbsup" I have a B&M shift kit with 411's in the rear. 10 bolt pos. EB750, EB Performer intake, upper pulleys, Hooker ceramic headers, Flowmaster 3 1/2 open at the doors, Ported and polished and stroked. Indy lifters and springs, ect..... It didn't take a lot to make it scream!

 

[hellbentrodder]

355 is a lot cheaper than a 383 but ull get more torque out of a 383 and with the weight of that car 15 x 10 in the rear will be fine and as far as a stall goes if u drive it everyday then dont go to big 2500 max edelbrock power package guarantees 410 hp and as far as boring goes the only difference between .030 and .060 is about 5 hp and it would be smarter to do .030 if u can because say u went .060 and blew it up you couldnt reuse the block you would need another because .060 is the most you can bore for the street but if its race only you can do .080 the reason why is the more you bore it the more it will want to over heat anymore questions just ask

I have got a question..........ever heard of a period.

 

[2JSC]

:lol:

350, 355 if it needs it.

CSR, try working on a 440. :lol: You'll appreciate how cheap it is to build a Chevy when you've rebuilt a Mopar.

A 440, 383, or even a 360... they are all $$$. But well worth the stump pulling power at the low end. :shock:8)

 

[cutlaSS]

350 bored .030 over + 400 crank (3.75) stroke= 383. Rods have no effect on displacment but I would step up to 5.7 rods. With the longer rod you get a longer TDC dwell for better combustion and less side load on the pistons and rings helps wear.

I have to edit my previous statement alittle. If you have to replace the crank I would definately go 383. The only real expense over a 355 would be clearancing the rod bolts, the bottom of a couple cylinders and pan rail.

I personally would build a 383. They are huge torque motors (if you know what you are doing). Someone made a good point about only boring it .030 to give yourself a little more cylinder wall. It's been awhile since I've done the math, but I think a 350 block .030 over + crank and rods from a 400 = 377 cu. in.

 

[jcnalley]

350 bored .030 over + 400 crank (3.75) stroke= 383. Rods have no effect on displacment but I would step up to 5.7 rods. With the longer rod you get a longer TDC dwell for better combustion and less side load on the pistons and rings helps wear.

.030 gives you a 383? I thought it was .060 over. What displacement does a stock 350 (4.0") bore and a 400 crank give you?

 

[suprachrgd82]

How far are you looking to go, and what is your budget?

If you have the $$ for forged or billet con rods, blueprint/balance, and a knifed and/or forged crank, (and if the cylinder walls are not worn) I'd go for the 350. Shorter stroke will afford high RPM.

Being an SBC (small dispacement), good power will be found at higher RPM. In order spin it up and have a stong bottom end, the extra money spent on crank and rods will pay off in the long run.

If the sky's the limit, also have your block heat treated to increase strength.

Upgrading the valve springs to 2 or 3 coils will be a necessity but having a 7500-8000 redline will really give a great balance of top end and mid-range power, particularly with a 3-speed auto.

 

[maxxrookie]

I have got a question..........ever heard of a period.

punctuation and grammar not a specialty of mine

 

[Mac10]

my last motor I built was a twin turbo 406 but if I were to build another NA motor I would go with a 383!

I loved my NA 350, but it always left me wanting more!

if your trying to do a budget build don't bore it unless you have to!

 

[cutlaSS]

.030 gives you a 383? I thought it was .060 over. What displacement does a stock 350 (4.0") bore and a 400 crank give you?

376.992 but just call it 377. A 377 is also commonly attained with a 400 (+.030) and a 350 (3.48 stroke) crank. I found a formula to figure displacement

bore x bore x stroke x .7854 x # of cylinders = displacement

 

[Grizzly4x4]

Alright, I now have a 4-bolt, 2 piece seal, 350 sitting in my garage.

But, I'm not sure what exactly I want to build.


The options I'm looking at is

350

355

383

383 is the best you can get with a ...gag....SBC. :ror:

Where is the poll option for small block 400?!
:lol:

I know they are more rare, but I have seen some MEAN ass 406ci's...


WC

I've got a SB 400 in my '77 Blazer. :mrgreen:

 

[1BadJeepBruiser]

A lot of good advice in this thread from what appears to be a lot of knowledgeable people. I hope you take their advice.

If I were you, I would stick with the 350... if it needs to be cleaned up, then bore it.030 over and go with the 355.

Take it from me, I learned the hard way in my CJ-7... My teacher at my trade school was a SBC fanatic. He built me a 355 with a 325 Horse, 350 torque and I swapped that into the Jeep in place of the backyard "350" that was in there (was really a 305). It had ported heads and an LT1 cam shaft, edelbrock intake, headers, MSD ignition etc... It RIPPED and had tons of torque...that was until the rear started to shit out from me slamming 2nd gear at damn near 6000 rpms...turbo 400 handled it no problem but the AMC (or was it dana?) 20 rear didnt like it one bit.

Building a serious engine is all swell and good, but if the rest of the car cant handle it then what good is it?

Good luck with the project

 

[Nova's Ark]

First thing you need to do; Figure out what YOU want and make a list "thumbsup".

I can tell you from experience, if you write it down, plan for it and save for it, more than likely you will finish it. I can't tell you how many customers and friends I have dealt with that started in one direction only to change minds mid build and end up spending 2 - 3 times the cost. Make a list. Write it down, type it into the computer, put in on the refrigerator, or whatever, but make a plan and stick to it.

If this is something you will daily drive and see lite drag strip duty, think about efficiency and durability. The 350 will be more durable and efficient. Any motor built right will last. But the 350 has been around forever and is tried and true. The manual transmission will get you better gas mileage and will indeed be more fun to drive. But a manual trans with high clutch spring pressure will wear you out driving in traffic. On the other hand, automatic transmissions have made huge technological advances and are most consistent at the track and easier to drive. But 28 MPG out of a high performance small block is not possible with an automatic like it is with a 6 speed manual. Plus high stall converters create more heat and heat ruins automatic transmissions fast.

I had built my wife a 1964 Chevy Nova Station Wagon. I installed a stock GM crate 350 motor in with all bolt performance parts. I had a 200R4 trans built for it and I used Bowtie Overdrives TV Cable kit and cross member. The wagon had a 10 bolt 336 geared rear end in it. It had a Edelbrock 650 carb on it and on the freeway, if you just cruised at 70mph, it would get 25 MPG. It would also ran a high 13 second quarter mile (consistent low 14 sec mostly though). The wagon was fun to drive, totally streetable, and reliable.

My orange 1964 Chevy Nova is a different story. It's more a show car that was also built to see drag strip duty. The car runs low 12's in the quarter and can be driven to the track. But in all honesty, it's a pain to drive, uncomfortable, and not super reliable. It's a standard bore and stroke 350 but with 11:1 compression, Sportsman 2 heads (with port work), solid cam, etc, etc. It has a built TH350 trans with 3500 stall converter, Ford Nine Inch rear end with 355 gears and locker. It barely runs on 93 octane and prefers to be mixed with race gas. I honestly drive my nova less because $5 a gallon 93 octane is just not worth it, when the car gets maybe 9 miles a gallon. Not only that, but with so much horsepower, I just want to act a fool in the car and it's safer for me and my family if the car sits in the garage:lol:.

I share this with you so you don't waste money and make a poor decision. It is a true statement that there is no replacement for displacement, but technology has come along way and getting more horsepower and torque from smaller cubic inches is now possible and it is easier and cheaper to do so. You would be better off with a mild 350 that at least has decent chance at reasonable gas mileage and adding nitrous or a super charger instead. Unless you can honestly say that money is not an issue and neither is $5 - $6 a gallon Premium gas.

 

[Calderwood]

Freshen the 35X/200r4 with blower pistons, then put a blown through the carb procharger on it.