BBCorvette18
Pebble Pounder
What's your favorite wheelbase and ride height combination. I'm figuring the longer the wheelbase the higher you need to be. building a rig with 15" wheelbase and wondering what people think a good belly height would be
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
wheelbase vs belly height
- Thread starter BBCorvette18
- Start date
BBCorvette18
Pebble Pounder
Seriously nobody can post they have a 12.5 inch wheelbase and like their belly height at 2.75 inch?
Figured this would be a good tech thread for people to see what others like and whats to long and low. If enough people post up there should become an "ideal" wheelbase to belly height ratio.
Figured this would be a good tech thread for people to see what others like and whats to long and low. If enough people post up there should become an "ideal" wheelbase to belly height ratio.
lonleycreeper
I wanna be Dave
That is called break over angle. I think it all depends on the look of the truck rather than the performance, esp in this section. You might get a better response in the comp section.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
12.3" WB...
Measured: ground surface to underbelly skid surface.
* Keep in mind... I have an altered suspension set up
and stock length CO's will not net the same results.
3.25" when at full droop (susp. fully extended)
2.50" when static (sprung weight of chassis)
1.75" when susp. compressed down to stops
My Honcho has about 3/4" chassis squat
My susp's travel ratio is approx. 50/50.
Meaning: 50% compression and 50% extension.
More commonly selected.. would be 60/40
Meaning: 60% compression and 40% extension.
Ignoring my squat when static...
my "break over" point is still 3.5"
This is achieved by utilizing 100mm CO's.
The stock length CO's will net less.
The "break-over" point is not simply designated by tuning the chassis's suspension ride height.
Alternatively the suspension's droop capability plays an equally important role.
* A low COG is more critical then concern for underbelly scuffs.
My scx-10's belly skid does scrape things when going over.
But hey... that's why the belly plate is replaceable !?
IMO... It's more important
that the axles extend well when going over a "break-over" obstacle.
Extended length CO's allow this to happen more efficiently.
As long as the tires reach the other side and have good traction...
the rig should pull/push itself over that break angle.
My 1:1 4X Tacoma often found that it's belly skids had purpose ;-)
Once even spun my junk around 180* on top a large boulder...
and with just the push of a hand "thumbsup"
wuz... retreating
If one were to jack the suspension up all the way...
It would clear things more easily at the belly under skid...
But that comes with a loss in stability, caused by a taller COG.
Guys whom have SAS'd (solid axle swap)
their 1:1 Tacoma trucks... try to keep the ride height and COG
as low as possible... The goal of 24" seems to offer bragging rights.
Of course that includes fitting 38-40" tires as well. ;-)
Sooo...
for the Honcho's longer wheel base...
2.5" of clearance under the belly skid, at static ride height
is more correct to a 1:1 scale SAS'd Tacoma.
^ wuz bored
Measured: ground surface to underbelly skid surface.
* Keep in mind... I have an altered suspension set up
and stock length CO's will not net the same results.
3.25" when at full droop (susp. fully extended)
2.50" when static (sprung weight of chassis)
1.75" when susp. compressed down to stops
My Honcho has about 3/4" chassis squat
My susp's travel ratio is approx. 50/50.
Meaning: 50% compression and 50% extension.
More commonly selected.. would be 60/40
Meaning: 60% compression and 40% extension.
Ignoring my squat when static...
my "break over" point is still 3.5"
This is achieved by utilizing 100mm CO's.
The stock length CO's will net less.
The "break-over" point is not simply designated by tuning the chassis's suspension ride height.
Alternatively the suspension's droop capability plays an equally important role.
* A low COG is more critical then concern for underbelly scuffs.
My scx-10's belly skid does scrape things when going over.
But hey... that's why the belly plate is replaceable !?
IMO... It's more important
that the axles extend well when going over a "break-over" obstacle.
Extended length CO's allow this to happen more efficiently.
As long as the tires reach the other side and have good traction...
the rig should pull/push itself over that break angle.
My 1:1 4X Tacoma often found that it's belly skids had purpose ;-)
Once even spun my junk around 180* on top a large boulder...
and with just the push of a hand "thumbsup"
wuz... retreating
If one were to jack the suspension up all the way...
It would clear things more easily at the belly under skid...
But that comes with a loss in stability, caused by a taller COG.
Guys whom have SAS'd (solid axle swap)
their 1:1 Tacoma trucks... try to keep the ride height and COG
as low as possible... The goal of 24" seems to offer bragging rights.
Of course that includes fitting 38-40" tires as well. ;-)
Sooo...
for the Honcho's longer wheel base...
2.5" of clearance under the belly skid, at static ride height
is more correct to a 1:1 scale SAS'd Tacoma.
^ wuz bored
Last edited:
what Toco said,
but in scale rigs, its more about the looks first, then we figure out how to make the rig work best it can. im building a crew cab ford, WB is 14 1/4". i could easily stuff a 4"+ tire under it and jack it way up, it would work better as far as break over, but would look funny sitting that high. and im runnin 90mm shocks up front and 70s in the rear on leaf springs.
the truck looks right with a 3.5" tire and 2.5" belly clearance . the body covers the frame rails except for whats visible at the wheel wells
but in scale rigs, its more about the looks first, then we figure out how to make the rig work best it can. im building a crew cab ford, WB is 14 1/4". i could easily stuff a 4"+ tire under it and jack it way up, it would work better as far as break over, but would look funny sitting that high. and im runnin 90mm shocks up front and 70s in the rear on leaf springs.
the truck looks right with a 3.5" tire and 2.5" belly clearance . the body covers the frame rails except for whats visible at the wheel wells
War Pig
I wanna be Dave
Class 1 S-10
11.5" wheelbase 2.5" belly
Class 2 D90
12.4" wheelbase 2.5" belly
Class 3 Trooper
13.25" wheelbase 2.55" belly front of skid, 2.65" rear
11.5" wheelbase 2.5" belly
Class 2 D90
12.4" wheelbase 2.5" belly
Class 3 Trooper
13.25" wheelbase 2.55" belly front of skid, 2.65" rear
BBCorvette18
Pebble Pounder
Well this is the rig Im building.
Thats about 15.75" wheelbase and 3" belly at mock up. We've played a little more and it looks like it might be 16" wheelbase and I want to keep it under 4" for sure but dont want to be to low and get hung up on everything Those are 2.2 Pitbulls its a big body
Thats about 15.75" wheelbase and 3" belly at mock up. We've played a little more and it looks like it might be 16" wheelbase and I want to keep it under 4" for sure but dont want to be to low and get hung up on everything Those are 2.2 Pitbulls its a big body
hotwheels000
I wanna be Dave
IMO, that rig would look best as low as you can go"thumbsup"
War Pig
I wanna be Dave
Yeah, I'd keep it right at 3"
BBCorvette18
Pebble Pounder
3"-3.5 is kinda my initial thoughts on belly height so I'll stick to that for now.
