Toyota 22R Guys chime in !

[1BadJeepBruiser]

Originally Posted by chris_snchez

I personally own an 83 toyota pickup with a 22r and know what you mean when you say it`s slow, but remember it is also steady and reliable. I think if I regear mine to 4.88 gears I would get the little extra torque/power I need. I would look into regearing it if I were you most people run 5.29 with 35in tires. For now I am wishing to eventually gather enough money for a 3rz swap but that money is hard to come by when your 17 and don`t have a job. Just look on the bright side whenever your cut off by speedy drivers. Here`s a pic of my truck.

Very cool truck

Re gearing is not an option

1) BIG $$, for the cost of gears and a rebuild kits with solid spacers seals etc I could get a 22re and need associated parts, Or just do the Cam install and other various hop ups.

2) Dont like 5.29s, seen to many broken ring gears and with the 207:1 crawl ration I don't wanna risk chunking gears

[1BadJeepBruiser]

Originally Posted by Lentsnh2012

I totally understand. 105K miles is VERY VERY low mileage for its age. I wish mine was that young sometimes but then I love the expression people give when I tell them my 4Runner has 312K miles.

Airing up the tires and timing will help very much- Don't forget about that exhaust though!

You could also drop in a 4BT. 265 lb of torque/ 105 HP.

I am actually kinda bummed, the exhaust was in great shape minus the tail pipe. I cut it out and welded up a new set up using some goods from autozone. I was still hearing and exhaust leak and double checked everything and found the center of the muffler is starting to rot out So it looks like I am going to try and grab a 40 series flow master. I had one on my 86 turbo truck and it sounded great.

[KustomKreeper8606]

Don't know if it has been said but the 1983 22r is a little less powerful than the 1985+ 22r which is when Toyota introduced the laser block as its called. The laser block was about 1/2 inch shorter from mains to top deck. This allowed the motor to produce more torque than the previous design. One of the first additions I have always done was a 20r head swap. It boost compression greatly and makes a little more efficient engine. Also if you don't want to go through the 20r head trouble. You can remove your head and look at the combustion chamber and see what you have. Toyota produced 3 head designs. Low compression, which looks like a normal combustion chamber. Mid , which has the surface of the head kinda turning in toward the valve. And high, which greatly turned in toward toward the area between the valves. If you need pics to understand what I'm talking about just let me know

[bastard]

Good thread guy I have been keeping an eye on this I have a 1990 22r in my 67 stout and have been thinking about what mods I wanted to do to it to boost up the power. How much compression does the 20r head gain and what is the differance between the three 22r head compression wise?

[KustomKreeper8606]

All my tech notes are at the garage( I am @ work right now). But here is a link somewhat on this... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...22r-block.html

[jjt112]

I have an '85 4runner with a 22re/5speed and found out 2 1/2'' exhaust is too big, according to a lot of places and exhaust charts I've seen, 2 1/4" is still on the large side but gets you closer to the back pressure you want than the 2". Mine being mostly stock has done 95 mph a couple times on accident. Here's a pic of mine, and yeah it's a pickup cab, it's a long story...

[Lentsnh2012]

Originally Posted by 1BadJeepBruiser

Very cool truck

Re gearing is not an option

1) BIG $$, for the cost of gears and a rebuild kits with solid spacers seals etc I could get a 22re and need associated parts, Or just do the Cam install and other various hop ups.

2) Dont like 5.29s, seen to many broken ring gears and with the 207:1 crawl ration I don't wanna risk chunking gears

1) You could always save up and buy Trail-Gear's 3rd members without a locker. It is a lot of money but also well worth it!

2) 5.29s are fine and strong. It's the 5.71s you have to watch out for. 5.29s can get tougher if you get them heated and cyro'ed by Bobby Longfield.

[1BadJeepBruiser]

Originally Posted by KustomKreeper8606

Don't know if it has been said but the 1983 22r is a little less powerful than the 1985+ 22r which is when Toyota introduced the laser block as its called. The laser block was about 1/2 inch shorter from mains to top deck. This allowed the motor to produce more torque than the previous design. One of the first additions I have always done was a 20r head swap. It boost compression greatly and makes a little more efficient engine. Also if you don't want to go through the 20r head trouble. You can remove your head and look at the combustion chamber and see what you have. Toyota produced 3 head designs. Low compression, which looks like a normal combustion chamber. Mid , which has the surface of the head kinda turning in toward the valve. And high, which greatly turned in toward toward the area between the valves. If you need pics to understand what I'm talking about just let me know

Originally Posted by bastard

Good thread guy I have been keeping an eye on this I have a 1990 22r in my 67 stout and have been thinking about what mods I wanted to do to it to boost up the power. How much compression does the 20r head gain and what is the differance between the three 22r head compression wise?

I looked into the 20R head as well. I was looking at Engine bildrs site, however he spells it that funky way, when I was looking into his cam shafts. it seems a lot of guys like that mod quite a bit.

Originally Posted by Lentsnh2012

1) You could always save up and buy Trail-Gear's 3rd members without a locker. It is a lot of money but also well worth it!

2) 5.29s are fine and strong. It's the 5.71s you have to watch out for. 5.29s can get tougher if you get them heated and cyro'ed by Bobby Longfield.

With the trails I wheel out here I need the lockers...Not going back to open diffs after wheeling with the lockers for 3 seasons. I have run most of the Rausch in my 4Runner which was a DD/weekend warrior with the lock right and ARB combo I had and the truck was an animal in the that park. Up CV hill, Up trail 5 hill climb BOTH SIDES so lockers are a must


I am thinning down some RC stuff and I am going to pick up that distributor next. Ill let ya guys know how it is

Appreciate all the feedback on this

-Mike

[rc_pimp]

Originally Posted by Lentsnh2012

The 22R and 22RE were never meant to be high performance motors. Enough though it is a huge 2.4L 4 banger, I still will struggle to keep up with 35" tires.

Cam: Yes, California emission Toyota vehicles had both a smaller cam as well as a bigger catalytic converter to make the Californians happy. If I'm not mistaken, Toyota's TRD department developed a slightly higher cam than what was in the later year 22RE's.

Conversion to EFI: You can EASILY do a EFI swap on the 22R. I have a friend locally that has enough EFI stuff to do 3 22R motor conversions. The 22R carbs were very small for what was out there during its time. I haven't checked Weber's products because I never had the need to (22RE owner). You could also bore out the carb...

Exhaust: Re-working your exhaust will drastically increase the chances of it performing better. The LCE header was a great choice by Dean, but it always has to have the rest to compliment it. Cut out that Catalytic converter and install a downpipe. Up the exhaust piping size to 2 1/2" (I think that is the correct size). You'll get a great sound and low end torque Are the headers Long tube or short tube?

Electric fan: Doing this will improve it by taking out the drag. You can go with the classic Ford Taurus fan and a hi flow radiator.

My 4Runer's 22RE has 312,000 miles on it. Original exhaust manifold, and original exhaust. Also it has 5.29s on 35" KM2s. Going to class in the cold mornings, it struggles to stay at 60. Now, when it becomes warmer, you can actually feel a surge of power throughout the gears to bring the 4Runner and I to a crusing speed of 75. That is PLENTY quick enough.

Not trying to step on toes here but not all 22r blocks will take efi. The early models (81-83 ) will not work. I literally just went through this over the weekend trying to sell my original engine. Just a heads up for anyone concerned. Yotatech has some good info on this and of course pirate.

[meatmonkey]

On my late-83 block there was no mounting boss for the knock sensor. I ended up drilling and tapping one of the A/C compressor mounting bosses. Untaped the wiring harness and there was plenty of wire to reach the new location. No MIL, no detonation with the timing at 7 degrees.

You almost can convert any 22R series to factory EFI, just some are way more work than others.

I got lucky and my head had both bolt patterns in it for the EFI manifold, and the carbureted manifold. I just had to tap a couple holes for the extra bolts (like that darn long 6mm allen headed bolt).

Most of the 83 and older motors don't have the neccessary holes even drilled, and it is a pain to drill them straight and true. And to add to the complication, some of the heads don't have enough meat to be drilled/tapped without getting into a water passage. Unfortunately, I don't know how to identify these non-convertable heads.

You also must swap the distributer and drive gear when converting to EFI.

One thing noone mentions when doing a 20R head conversion (especially those who haven't tried it) is that they don't have the mounting bosses for the Power steering pump. This ussually requires fabricating a bracket and relocating the pump to where the A/C compressor goes.

Just my $.02, but after seeing the "quality" of some of Trail-Gears spring hangers, axle "rebuild" kits, and P-steering setup, they won't be getting any of my money.

[bastard]

Well after reading this thread and bunch of others I think I have decided that the only way I am gonna get the power I want is to do a complete turbo motor build.
Going to find a builder motor to start with so I can keep driving my stout while I am building up the motor. Gonna start with a good 22rte block add some h beam rods , some forged 8.5:1 pistons , arp head studs , Titan sce head gasket , ported 22re head , custom turbo cam , custom intake with ls throttle body , t3/t4 turbo. Gonna shoot for 250hp to the wheels with 15 lbs of boost.

So if any one knows or has a good rebuildable 22rte let me know.

[jason]

Don't you already have a Toyota with a shitload of power that you don't drive?