1/10 Faux-Functional 1980 Toyota 22R Engine - Janky's Finished Build!

[ModTrialsRider]

Greetings RCCRAWLERS!!!!

I'm so excited writing this post. IT'S FINALLY DONE!!!! So much agony, so much time and pain, utter, sheer, PAIN.

SO, MUCH, PAAAAAIN.

Oh heck, who am I kidding? I enjoyed every second of it... So without further gilding the lily, meet Janky (Janks for short,) and his own working 22R!

Every story deserves to start at the beginning so here's the link to his humble beginnings. Homefab Hilux Truggy - Input Needed.

So I'll start off with some pictures of the engine, a quick look into how I did it, and then finish it off with some overall pictures of Janky. This thread serves two purposes for me, (1) to primarily showcase the horribly unscale engine I built so others can have the opportunity to build their own renditions of it should they wish, and (2) to document the current finish of my truck.

MONEY SHOTS!!!






Pretty horrible huh? Yes... I could have spent close to a year custom fabbing styrene mm to mm to make a completely scale engine as I have seen other true RC artisans make, but I chose functionality (or... severe lack thereof,) at the cost of "some" scale-ism. Please excuse it.

And yes... to answer your next question, that really is a timing belt rotating around (counter-clockwise I may add, like the real 22R,) four Traxxas bearings, incased in servo box with a teeny Tamiya motor/gearbox set in front of two Integy fans which, also work. Does it do any good? Not in the least. Does it suck battery power? You better believe it. Does it get decent MPG? Technically speaking it's a hybrid so, yes. Does it sound cool? The answer to that is a resounding YES. It sounds incredible, like a real 4-banger. Except, at 1/10 the size... and electric... but you know whatever...

SO here's few pics and some quick wording on how I went about it. Please note I have NEVER done this before and a lot of it was trial and error... lots and lots of errors. And several renditions to boot, lots of excessive hole drilling and such. But it works.

So I started with this...


And then built it. Please note the gear ratio chosen in the picture is NOT the end ratio I went with. Unfortunately to get this motor to spin in realistic form I had to MAX out the gear ratio. The end gear ratio I used was the second highest, at 5.1:1 - 1224 RPM - 25 gf.cm Torque.




The worlds cheapest alternator.


Intake and Exhaust. Believe it or not, that darned fuel filter was the catylyst behind the whole project. I wanted it to stick out of the hood (back when the truck had a hood,) and one thing led to another and the end result is what is seen here. The exhaust was made out of leftover Traxxas RX box plastic, then some soft aluminum weld rode bent into pre-drilled holes. Add a really "Janky" fuel rod over the whole thing and yeah... totally ghetto I know but it serves it's purpose.


And lets not forget the timing belt tensioner!


Almost there! Here is the Tamiya Gearbox/motor combo jammed into a heavily Dremeled-out servo box (standard-size servo box btw,) with the attached pulley, belt, and bearings. Some quick notes on this:
-All three pieces of the empty servo box were use to complete it! This means you can incase the whole Tamiya Gearbox in it.
-Four traxxas bearings were used, #4019 I believe. The smallest ones they sell 4x3x7(?)
-Several size washers were use to keep the belt on during rotation, and the smaller washers were pressed near the inner race of the bearings for free movement.
-Timing belt is a tiny cream-colored rubber band available at Office-Depot. Adding two belts would fill out the system better, but simply adding one more belt actually slowed down the Tamiya Gearbox motorset. So I used only one.
-Belt was Sharpied black, then used an industry paint pen to paint the yellow on to allow it to "pop" during rotations!
-If you do this, be prepared for the belt system to be uneven, as you are bolting the whole thing to malleable plastic (Servo-box.)
-Servobox was pre-drilled to accommodate different lengths M3 bolts. Don't worry, they fit!
-The Tamiya gearbox spindle has shaft-couplings that were ground out in the inner diameter a bit and then I used set screws to bolt them in place over the shaft. Two were used, and they drive the "rubber-band" timing belt system.




Now lets power it Cap'n! IV'E GOT THAH POWUR!!! Battery holder and switch courtesy of Radio Shack (RIP,) solderings done by yours truly.


Switch installed upside down to access it from the bottom of the truck, and double-sided sticky taped the battery holder underneath as well. Take note of the switch underneath!


20150417_015746_HDR by A+G vIsUaLs, on Flickr

Now onto the sweeeeeetest part. The oh-so hawt motor cover! Used the original servo box plate, painted it red, added paper (covered in laminate,) emblems, then clear-coated the whole thing. Sharpied the bolt patterns on for added flair.


Oh, almost forgot. Custom painted Integy's. Here's a good time to note these fans run full time on the trucks 3s Lipo (unless unhooked,) whereas the motor runs off of it's own 3v power supply (hence the two AAA batts.)


And here it is almost ready for install. The note I'll add here is the ignition coil is yet another shaft-coupling with (go ahead, laugh,) the string from a set of wrap-around earplugs incased into the "block". The coil is mounted via double-sided sticky tape with the wires glued into it, and the other end of the wires BOLTED INTO the crevice that holds the blocks top-end and bottom end together. BE forewarned, I did have to pre-file holes to make them fit.


And since Pulse is powering Janks with a 2250mah 3s I thought it only fitting. Lots of styrene wrapped in electrical tape, leftover wires to make it look somewhat real.


Oh yes, one last note, I personally like the idea of variety. For this purpose I chose to use double-sided sticky tape EVERYWHERE I could, in case I felt like changing something later on down the road. The air box, ignition coil, headers, even the entire motor itself is taped onto the truck. It's all removable!

More weirdness to come!!!!!!!!

[gearhead79]

Wow!!!!!!!!!! That's one hell of an idea.im diggin it

[ModTrialsRider]

Before:


After:




Here's the rest of the pics that don't pertain to the motor directly, but some were built during the process so I'm adding them here anyway. If for no other reason they add to the overall aesthetics of what's rotatin' under the hood.
















Parting shot, for now.

And before anyone asks:
NO, It is not waterproof. At all. In any way. I carry an umbrella when driving this truck just in case.
NO I have not rolled it.
NO it is not a basher.
YES it a shelf queen. 110% shelf queen. It's up there in royalty.

For those interested, there is one hell of a video coming your way starring Janks. This truck crawls insane and looks cooler than all get out with a turning motor. I can't wait to get it out, but it may be a week or so. So stay tuned. Or don't. Or whatever.

[ModTrialsRider]

YOUTUBE link to my motor!!!
https://youtu.be/p55loda8PEE

WARNING Sound quality spikes in video at start, watch your ears. Not sure what the hell youtube did there...

[poop]

very nice rig indeed, great work...and I ride trials as well, but I don't ride thoose tiny little mod bikes...

[Hammer!]

Wow, that engine is a beauty. Well actually the whole truck is a beauty

[IronGut]

Wow! That's flippin' awesome! The ingenuity behind this is incredible. Great job!

BTW, what steering linkages are you running? I've not seen square rods like that & I'm totally diggin' them.

[joe122]

Overall this is both amazing and ingenious. Very well conceived and over the top cool. Awesome rig and......soooo how you gonna top this?

[STANG KILLA SS]

incredible. thats for taking the step by step pics.
awesome build

[ModTrialsRider]

@Gearhead79, Stang Killa, Hammer: Thank you for the kind words gentleman!

@Poop: (Lmao, awesome username!) Thanks! I don't ride trials anymore, so I guess that makes two of us that don't ride mods? Seriously cool to stumble across a fellow rider here though. I can understand why, something about being out on those rocks...


@Irongut: If you read the link I posted up at the beginning of the thread you'll find me installing them. They are built by BoomRacing, a in-house brand from Asiatees. I don't know If I'd recommend them for quality as I haven't put them through their paces, I just needed some extra bling to add on. I know they machined the set screws to the wrong pitch, but had the OEM set screws I used in their place, if you want I can explain in greater detail. Axles I am running are from a Losi Night Crawler so look for the steering links that way through Asiatees.

@Joe122: How can I top this? The answer to your question lies right here. Watch this, go ahead I'll wait. ->https://youtu.be/m3KdpzL3Hkk

Now THAT'S commitment. It took this guy years to build that, out of a watchmakers lathe. I threw mine together with parts from my LHS in two months. The bigger question is how couldn't I top it. RCCrawler is home to the coolest hybrid of RC enthusiasts and modelers, someone is bound to take this and run with it!

I've had some idea's myself that I doubt I'll ever get to.
(1) Adding small springs to the bottom of the engine, and have it suspended by them. This would enable the whole motor to vibrate adding a small fraction of realism. I didn't do this personally because of a lack of room. The motor sits too high as it is, and I cannot lower it without cutting out portions of the hand-made frame.
(2) Programming a computer chip (an Arduino(?) comes to mind,) to enable the engine to spool up realistically when the truck accelerates. As it sits, the motor only rotates at one speed, which realistically looks like idle on a 1:1 rig. Because it's a crawler, I can get away with driving it in this fashion, as most 1:1 crawlers usually do their work around 2-3K rpm or lower and therefore "looks realistic." If this was a sprint, or touring car, different story. But then again... who's going to see a 1/10 scale motor running in a car doing 40mph+?

To answer your question more realistically though, I probably won't top this. I am getting out of RC (yeah, I said that 6 months ago too...) and this is the last time I'll make something along these lines for a while. Between full-time work, school, and my dream of qualifying and competing in IMKona within two years will take ever second of my day for a while.

[ModTrialsRider]

Oh yes, as a post script I will add this here and now. The motor is actually quite easy to build. IMHO a twelve year-old could build this (closely supervised of course.) Tools you will need.

Dremel.
Soldering Iron.
Allen wrenches.
Screw divers.
Tin and electric snips.
Styrene.
Lots of hair-pulling ingenuity and Mountain Dew.
Wilco/Ace/Home Depot, and damn near unhindered access to your Local Hobby Shop parts section.
And by far and away the hardest part of it the time it takes to build it. Tooling, money, patience, not a big deal. But prepare to sit a while and make a few mistakes late into the A.M. If you got most of that your golden.

My local hobby shop is awesome in that I can browse all the Traxxas parts without having to walk behind a counter (Hobbytown USA, one of the perks of a name-brand store, employees care less about you stealing from "The Man") and the spare parts bin.

Keep in mind this is my first draft at this. That's why the pictures are not exactly step-by-step, as I made tons of U-turns, dead-ends, and back-tracking. Pictures are there for illustrative purposes and I'm leaving it up to you ingenious folks to sort through it and put your own rendition of it. Get crackin boys and girls, let's see how you can make this more awesome and realistic!!!

[rockslyder]

This is awesome detail

think you could put a speed control in place of the switch and run in parallel with the other speed control to have a throttle affect. just thinkin

[ModTrialsRider]

Originally Posted by rockslyder

This is awesome detail

think you could put a speed control in place of the switch and run in parallel with the other speed control to have a throttle affect. just thinkin

That...... That could actually work.

[lil' bear 4wd]

or you could possibly just wire the faux engine in to your existing esc (maybe reduce the voltage to the faux engine so you dont kill it?) but other wise really nice job!

[Szczerba]

Such a great detailed build. I don't even know where to start to talk about it!

[johnnyh66]

Great work man! Way to take it to the next level.

Hope you don't mind but I had to share your build!
I linked it back here...

[Jeckler]

Great job. It looks scale enough for Tiny Truck purposes. One thing I'd like to point out though, that belt isn't a timing belt. It's an alternator/waterpump belt.

[ModTrialsRider]

Originally Posted by Jeckler

One thing I'd like to point out though, that belt isn't a timing belt. It's an alternator/waterpump belt.

I KNEW THAT. (Okay no I didn't.)

You are absolutely correct, but technically, technically.... technically, in it's technicality the original 22R has TWO belts, unless the pictures I was provided deceived me during my build. There are so many renditions of this motor is real life that you can have as many as three, four, even five belts. One to power every Flux capacitor, digital unicorn, and the falsphamy mechinzissor.

I lost this one didn't I...

@Rockslyder and Lilbear:
I took into consideration the idea's put forth of utilizing an ESC to power the Tamiya Gearbox/Motor Combo. It would work, but only up to a point.

Problem (1): The motor supplied in the Tamiya Gearbox/Motor combo specifically requires a nominal power of 3V, no more or less. That being said, for random giggles I did in fact power the motor with upwards of 4.5V (Three AAA batt's,) and It had run just fine (albeit faster and at a potentially higher risk of burning up.) I believe I have established that the gear ratio used is ideal to imitate a somewhat scale rotational idle speed comparable to a 1:1 vehicle. Logically speaking, without changing the gear ratio it's a safe bet to say at 3V nominal would be ideally the correct idle speed, where as upwards of say, 6V, could emulate a 1:1 spooling up into the 2-3-4K RPM range. IF the motor (and accompanying plastic-cogged gearbox,) was capable of sustaining a steady intput of 3V-6V range, then it may be possible.

According to this link, it's not. Tamiya 980112M Mabuchi FA-130 Motor

It's made by Mabuchi, rebranded for Tamiya known as the Tamiya "030" style motor. Operating voltage is 1.5-3V, and it is brushed. Both of these work against it from the onset.

Problem (2), and this is the big one. Whether I am considering powering the Tamiya Gearbox/Motor combo through it's own ESC (Henceforth know as the slave speed control, to which it would then accompany the master ESC driving the truck itself,) or simply through the trucks own ESC, the problem is the same; At idle, the motor doesn't spin. In other words, when throttling up, truck moves in addition to the Faux motor, but at rest they both cease rotation.

Now, if one were to supply a slave ESC beside the master (and theoretically they would run in tandem from the same RX port via a JST wire splice,) one would then need to program the slave ESC to output constant forward power while the master ESC (controlling the trucks driving motor,) sits at rest. Then during throttle input they accelerate their accompanying motors in tandem at the given speeds. This presents three more problems within itself. What happens during reverse throttle input for the slave ESC, how to program an ESC to accomplish this type of movement, and obviously the physical room required to accompany two full sized ESC's inside the truck. (Mine simply has no more room, so this is ruled out for my personal build.)

However, this is very ingenious and possible idea, IF someone can workaround the programing of an ESC to emulate the mechanics of an engine in tandem with the truck. You cannot have a faux motor reversing it's belt direction when the truck reverses, nor do I believe (yet,) that you could program an ESC to allow constant rotation when the throttle is at rest. (Remember they will be tied together.)

Possibly another idea altogether is two complete stand alone TX/RX, ESC, and motor systems (but powered from one central location if you so wish.) I believe this would work completely because if you consider it, we already have this type of setup existing in the RC crawler world. Who's running the wireless RC4WD Warn Winch and wireless winch controller...?

Excellent foder for the mind. Good job lads, keep them coming.

[ModTrialsRider]

[QUOTE=johnnyh66;5228745]Great work man! Way to take it to the next level.QUOTE]

Off the record, reading this collection of words carefully placed in that order on this forum in regards to something I put together with my own two hands is an honor. "Next level," That's a pretty tall phrase around here. I am sincerely humbled by it, thank you sir.

[tacocat]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing