Jeep JK8 Build

[BigChevyTruckin]

Originally Posted by Jchevy01

With that beautiful of a rig, go slow and thoughtful! A little bump and scratch is fine but no bouncing.


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Thanks! But I definitely still plan on using it for what it's made for!

[DirkW]

Great work. Way beyond anything I'd even dare to attempt.

[BigChevyTruckin]

Another productive night in the garage. Started on the drop bed. Just cut separate pieces of the bed, and used some angled styrene on the corners to hold it together.

Fits well.


Next I decided to do a few things to help get it ready for paint. Started by trimming the front fenders off.

Before:



After:


Narrowed it up quite a bit.


Next I decided to trim the grille. It was longer than needed due to the factory style front bumper mounting below it.

Before:


After:


Then did the same for the rear.




Then I chopped the rear spare tire holder off and ended the night by gluing the the drop bed in the body. I didn't get any pictures of the rear tire holder after cutting it off, but you can see it's missing in the last picture. Lol.


I'm hoping to get it painted this weekend. But we will see what happens. Still have a lot of details to add to the drop bed. More soon!

[scaler44]

This is sweet man!!! What did you use to cut fenders?


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[BigChevyTruckin]

Originally Posted by DirkW

Great work. Way beyond anything I'd even dare to attempt.

Thanks!

[BigChevyTruckin]

Originally Posted by scaler44

This is sweet man!!! What did you use to cut fenders?


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I heated up an exacto blade, red hot, then slowly cut them off. Then I just cleaned off the roughness from the melting plastic with 80 grit, and finished it with 180 grit. Thanks for the kind words bud!

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by BigChevyTruckin

Thanks! Working with old, rare muscle cars really makes you look at the details and I guess it just travels down with you. Lol.

I agree, I worked on a 69 Road Runner for 7 years and every step was always planned out. I'll post a pic later.
Ernie

[scaler44]

Did you just hear the exact with a lighter?


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[BigChevyTruckin]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

I agree, I worked on a 69 Road Runner for 7 years and every step was always planned out. I'll post a pic later.
Ernie

Roadrunner or GTX? Because it has the GTX blackout on the bottom along with the correct moulding. Either way. It's beautiful. My first car was a 69 roadrunner. When I was 13. (9 years ago) I don't have it anymore but I still have a few Mopar toys.

Also have a 72 Dodge Demon and a 65 Chrysler 300... it's funny. People are staring to see some old guy cruising down the road in the Chrysler but it's a 22 year old kid. What can I say I like old stuff.

[BigChevyTruckin]

Originally Posted by scaler44

Did you just hear the exact with a lighter?


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I used a propane torch. Got it red hot.

[BigChevyTruckin]

Okay. I'm going to start by saying sorry for the dirty workspace and terrible lighting. The sudden -5 degree weather has made me take my workshop to a table in the darkest room in my house. Lol. But anyways. Onto the truck. With the body getting closer, I figured it was time to start with some of the modifications it would take on my SCX chassis to fit it. I have the whole gcm combo coming, but in separate pieces. So I started with the first piece that showed up. The servo mount.



So here is the stock configuration:


So I first took off my RC4WD bumper:


Then removed the original crossmember that held the stock bumper:


Then removed the battery tray:


Then I slid the new GCM mount in place, and screwed it in. Fit was great.


I then unscrewed the Savox servo that I upgraded to a few weeks back, and removed its mount.


Then, using the supplied spacers, I placed the servo onto the new mount.



At this point, I plugged in a battery, centered the servo, and installed the servo horn.


Then reinstalled the bumper.


Then, since both mounts for the shock towers were gone, (battery tray, and servo mount) I took the cross member off my gen I SCX until my gcm motor plate comes in, and then will replace that.


That's all for now. Waiting on my motor plate to come in along with the transfer. I know this is a really simple thing I just posted about, but even if it helps just one person figure out how to move their servo then it's worth it to me.

Hoping to start the custom sliders and fenders soon. Which means metal work! My favorite.

[scaler44]

Okay has what I'm gonna have to do to mine but just haven't ordered the parts yet


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[BigChevyTruckin]

Okay. So I haven't done much to the truck lately. I usually try to spend the weekends outdoors. But with these snow storms rolling in one after another it's been busy up here I New England. I'm going to be buying some material to start the bed cage to mount the shocks. Which will also act as a body mount if everything turns out how I plan. Might be an update later tonight! But quick question! Do most of
You guys use 3/16 tubing or solid rod when working with tight bends. I was thinking of using solid rod and heating it with the acetylene torch red hot and then attempting a nice tight bend. But I was hoping to hear what everyone else has done. Thanks guys!


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[scaler44]

I use solid rod but most use 3/16


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[BigChevyTruckin]

Picked up some 3/16 brake line. Going to start some fab work on the bed cage and sliders someone this week hopefully. Not sure with Christmas here. Bear with me!


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[scaler44]

Can't wait and wish you the best of luck!!!


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[BigChevyTruckin]

Okay. So. Update. Been really busy with the holidays, but managed to order some parts I need. Obviously I need to move the transmission under the hood and utilize a transfer case in its place. I already moved the servo with the use of the gcm mount. Next I ordered the gcm motor mount plate. Which was never meant to work with the SCX10 II setup.

Here is the mount:


After some test fitting, obviously something would need modification to work. I couldn't flip the shock towers because the panhard mount is built into the right side tower, and to fit the motor plate without flipping shock towers the motor plate would need milling. So I found the Hot Racing shock mounts had the panhard mount separate from the shock towers. Which means I could flip the towers (as gcm requires for the motor plate) but still keep the panhard mount in the same location. So I ordered those. I also ordered some VP incision links for the truck, as my stock links are getting sloppy. I also spent the money on the gcm transfer case. So I should have all of that by the end of the week. Haven't started on any tube work, but knowing it's going to be a heavy rig, I needed to think about motor and esc options. I went into my hobby shop ready to buy a Tekin FXR 35t combo, so I could run 3s and have a good, strong motor. After speaking with the guys at the LHS they informed me my new AE-5 can handle 3s... DOH! So instead I just got a new tekin 35t hand wound motor, and have been running 3s on the AE-5 which is giving me great power and decent wheelspeed. I haven't done much on the body, but once I get most of the things with the chassis sorted out, I'll be focusing on getting that painted.

On a side note, I did some cleaning on my indoor work space. Don't mind the paintings on the wall, previous owners had done that.


And a sneak peak at the next project...

[fr8cture]

I would have went with the FXR myself the AE-5 isn't a very good esc its a rebranded $20 hobbywing esc and they got really hot.

[BigChevyTruckin]

Originally Posted by fr8cture

I would have went with the FXR myself the AE-5 isn't a very good esc its a rebranded $20 hobbywing esc and they got really hot.

If they would have had the fxr in stock I still probably would have gotten it. But unfortunately the only combo they had ready to go for me would have been the mamba max pro and a roc412 which was more than I was looking to spend. What I'll probably end up doing is running this esc until the project is nearing completion, and then I'll probably scoop up the fxr esc. Ive never had an issue with any AE-5 esc's but I've also never run a good quality each like the fxr. I can already tell, from the axial 35t motor, to the tekin 35t motor is a nice bump in torque. Really shows that quality parts are worth it. Thanks for your input though, I'll definitely be looking into the fxr soon!

[JatoTheRipper]

The Axial AE-5 and HobbyWing WP1060 are not exactly the same. The HobbyWing WP1080 is their newest brushed ESC, and while it's not as good as the FXR it is a lot less and still has a lot of adjustability.