58_willys builds a Chebby

[58_Willys]

Hey all...I'm been stagnant long enough and have decided to dive into a new build with both feet. As with my other projects, I may finish this or I may not. Depends on what life throws at me this year.

I'm stepping away from my norm of Jeep enthusiast, while I try something new...a 70-72 Chevy K5 Blazer.

Trini2DBone gave me an engine set that just had to be used. So, I did a little comparison with a 1/8 scale Corvette engine I have and it turned out to be exactly the same size, in every way. This paved the way to build on a larger scale using RC4WD's new Chevy wide Rally rims, GCM R4/LST2 combo, Xtra Speed K44 axles, and whole lot of fun with the body.

It's going to be BIG...1/8.2 scale(close enough). Wheelbase is 12.7"(322mm), width is 9.6"(244mm), and length is 22"(559mm). 4" "BFG's" and 1.9" Rally rims, custom leaf suspension, and a LWB TF2 chassis if I can find one

I'm old skool, so I like the older, stock look on my vehicles, or mildly customized.

Here's the looks that inspire me the most...




I like the Medium Olive one the best. The Black is very sexy looking, but black is a difficult color to lay down.

Gonna start with the engine, since I'm still running the chassis set up around in my head. :nice:

[Rickleo]

Ok now this has really got my attention. I have to subscribe to see this.

I agree. The oliver colored K5 gets my vote. And the white steelies and roof just sets it off.

[littledoins]

I'll go with the olive color, black is kind of plain. That be a fun project to start and a great body for the k5.

[58_Willys]

Going with the Medium Olive Green which is paint code 504. Matching the interior with the Highlander green plaid. Still trying to find it though.

[58_Willys]

Been working on it, a little off and on. So, this is just a small update.

Got most of the details for the engine done but haven't painted it yet, so pics for it will be coming soon. I did get the tranny and transfer case mounted up.

I removed the trim rings from the wheels and painted them white. The axles had too much bling so I replaced the shiny hardware with black and painted the fake ARB covers black. To get the width I need, I added RC4WD wideners and did a little customizing to get the SSD locking hubs to look right. Here's a little break down for the hubs...

I started by adding some 4mm studs to the locking hubs. Then, cut down the barrel nuts and drilled and tapped the ends to take the 4mm studs. I didn't like the look of the hubs against the barrel nut so I made a couple of spacer rings from brass to slip over them before the hubs are screwed on. I like the look now and even got the spare done, which will go behind the rear seat, as it should. I'm waiting for my TF2 LWB chassis to arrive so I can get the suspension going. Keep watching...weather is getting better, so progress should improve.

[Rickleo]

Welcome back. I was going this build wasn't dead. Nice work on the wheels and hubs.

[58_Willys]

Been doing a little bit at a time and finally have enough to put out there.
Got the chassis built up and the suspension the way I want it. Short shocks for nice scale look and the V8 from Trini. Made some mounts for the GCM R4/LSTC2. They came out good, just need to hit them with some paint. I also did a little mock-up with a pic.

[58_Willys]

Short and sweet...skid plate in and I love the stance. Also, played with the headers from Trini and, although they are very nice and fit perfectly, I think they're too heavy for the plastic engine I have. So...I made a new set out of styrene. Same fit, much lighter and adapted to fit 1/4" styrene rods for exhaust pipes. On to the pics...

[58_Willys]

A small update...

Progress so far...needs plug wires, a coil, and a longer fan belt for the alternator, but it's mostly done. I like how the black is going to contrast well with the Medium Olive.

[Bananaclip]

Originally Posted by 58_Willys

A small update...

Progress so far...needs plug wires, a coil, and a longer fan belt for the alternator, but it's mostly done. I like how the black is going to contrast well with the Medium Olive.

The Engine is looking right! Killer detail work on it...

[58_Willys]

Thanks bananaclip. Waiting for the weekend to get some more progress done.

[Rickleo]

Originally Posted by 58_Willys

A small update...

Progress so far...needs plug wires, a coil, and a longer fan belt for the alternator, but it's mostly done. I like how the black is going to contrast well with the Medium Olive.

That engine looks awesome!!! Where did you get the alternator, bracket and the pulleys from?

[JatoTheRipper]

OK this has me excited. Great start!

[hotrodsoup]

UNREAL!!!!!! Amazing!!! You Sir are a very very talented guy!!!

[58_Willys]

Originally Posted by Rickleo

That engine looks awesome!!! Where did you get the alternator, bracket and the pulleys from?

The alternator is from an old 1/8 scale Vette TPI engine...the brackets and pulley I made from scratch.

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

OK this has me excited. Great start!

Thanks! Hoping to get the engine and exhaust finished this weekend and in the chassis.

Originally Posted by hotrodsoup

UNREAL!!!!!! Amazing!!! You Sir are a very very talented guy!!!

Thank you...much appreciated.

[58_Willys]

Well folks, I know it's been awhile since I posted last, but I have been working on some things.

Finally have my vacu-former built. It just needs a few final touches. Also, been working on my BT3C trailer to go with my CJ-6. Throwing together a TF2 LWB to mount a '46 Dodge Power Wagon body. And of course...work.

I finally managed to finish the V8 for the Blazer, only to realize, it looks way too nice for a Blazer. Might be sweet if it were a street Blazer. So, plan B...going for a stock type engine. Got a 2nd engine from Trini that will be made to look something like this...



Here's the finished performance V8...the plug wires are actually red. The camera makes them look like hot pink.

[Highmark]

That motor is amazing - can't wait to see this progress.

[58_Willys]

Originally Posted by Highmark

That motor is amazing - can't wait to see this progress.

Thanks Highmark. Just brain storming on a method for the body creation.

[58_Willys]

I know it's been awhile since I posted on this one, so I thought I should share a couple of things.

I got my drive shafts earlier this week and couldn't wait for the weekend to get them on and try everything with some power. I liked the looks of the Integy scale drive shafts (similar to RC4WD) and thought I would save a few bucks. After mounting them and running the drive train for about 10-20 seconds, I felt some binding and then it just stopped. To my surprise, one of the little tiny nuts for the flanges came loose and fell on the floor, allowing a screw to run amuck. At first, I didn't see the groove that had been worn into my transmission support and thought that was the cause for it stopping...I was wrong. I found the nut and dismantled everything so I could put it back on. While I was there I went ahead re-secured all the rest and thread locked them. They're only for looks and serve no other function.

The reason it had stop was from a binding in the front axle (Chinese K44). I opened the diff cover and started going through the gears with a scribe (sometimes there's a gear tooth out of wack), and found shards of metal and thought the ring and pinion were defective. I cleaned everything and found that only the pinion was broken. Since it was just the inner part of the teeth, I may be able to salvage it by re-shimming, but I'm not optimistic. I may have to find a new R&P for it. It looks like it might have been shimmed backwards, now that I see the rear.

Live and learn. Here's a few pics I shot, of the crap. This is more for those that may purchase these items in the future, than to just rant.

[58_Willys]

Just a small update on the R&P.

I carefully examined all the parts to the axle and found that, not only was it not shimmed correctly, but the hole for the pin the keeps the spool in place on the axle, was over-sized. In the rear, it was drilled correctly, but the front was so loose, it would allow the spool to rotate almost 2 pinion teeth. I found some brass tube that was correct for both the drilled hole and the pin. I don't know how long the brass will hold up, but if it fails, I have some 5mm steel rod that I can make a new one with. These K44's are almost as wide as SCX axles, so that is why I didn't want to change them out.

I opened up the rear and it was in perfect condition, so I cleaned all the old grease from them and re-greased with white Lithium grease. Since the front axle is more tedious to take apart and put back together, I put them in the front axle and shimmed the gears properly and it's very smooth now. I think, with time, it will smooth out even more. While I had the axle apart, I opted to shim the outer hubs to reduce the extra play where the inner and outer axle meet. So now it should be good all around.

I found the R&P set on ebay, by themselves and ordered 2 sets (just in case - ya never know). Once those get here I can put the rear back together and get my drive train complete.