2.2 trail rig with 149 R/C Worx chassis and skid.

[Boopernator]

So I wanted to start building a better 2.2 rig to take the place of my Wraith. After an attempt at making a Wroncho that went pretty poorly, I decided to try a new approach. With some advice and an excellent chassis and skid from Nerby149 this is the beginning.



I wanted the smaller skid as opposed to the Wraith "Hugo demundi" skid.



I like the angled link mounts, they should reduce binding.



Also the multiple link mounts on the chassis side rails provide good drive
Shaft angles.



This is only the start, I should have the rear axle mounted up soon. I put overdrive gears in the front from the Wraith with a Vanquish locker. Anyone have some advice on what SLW hubs I should be using? I might be starting out with Proline Faultline headlock wheels.


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[Brake Weight]

That's a good looking chassis. Any ideas on what body?

[Boopernator]

I like the Nukizer body and the Proline Ford Bronco bodies. So right now I'm undecided.


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[dna4engr]

I'm not sure if you've seen my nukizer rig Dan.
I comped with it at crawlapalooza and ended up in 7th out of over 60 drivers. If your track width is perfect it is tall enough it makes getting back on all 4 from the side pretty easy. But if you turtle you're stuck.

Either way both are great options.


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[Boopernator]

I don't think I've seen that build. I was concerned about the boxy shape if the body getting stuck during s roll over. The Bronco body might be a bit top heavy or tall, but might roll over better. And as you know my driving skills still need improvement. I just really like the look of both those bodies.


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[Boopernator]

Holmes Hobbies Torquemaster Expert.

So the power plant arrived today. Excited about that, I will be doing the water break in on the brushes following the Holmes Hobbies YouTube video. The other surprise is still on the way. I can only give a hint with "Robble robble robble" ;) I


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[dna4engr]

You don't need to water break in HH motors. They're already broken in. At least they used to be.


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[Highmark]

Yup on the motor. Good start on the build, I'm really liking the 149 R/C Worx stuff!

[Boopernator]

Cool, that means I can slap that baby in and test it out right away! I wanted to install the transmission with the motor facing forward, and the spur facing to the rear. but the motor hits the bolts for my upper links.


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[calcagno45]

That red skid is making wish I went with a color instead of black. Did you get some CF links from 149 also?

[Boopernator]

No, I ordered some high clearance aluminum links for this build. I might consider the CF Links for my SCX10 V2. I almost think I might pull the trigger on some RPM dyeable rod ends and try to match the red skid.


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[calcagno45]

Nice! I went AR60's with the Homebrew, 149 skid, SS and carbon links. Gotta finish it up and find a body.

[Boopernator]

Why didn't I buy a Holmes Hobbies motor sooner? Just tested the electronics and what a difference from my Tekin motor. That Tekin must be a bit worn out, because the HH is smooth as silk! I also am going to go with the Bronco body. Pictures soon of the chassis with tires.


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[Boopernator]

So here is the chassis ready for some testing. I want a more battery forward mounting, but the stock battery tray will interfere with the steering servo on full compression. Might ditch the receiver box for something else to move electronics and battery up front. Then once I make up my mind on the body ( I saw the other Jeep truck body by proline ) then I can get some body posts mounted.


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[Brake Weight]

You'll have to extend the servo wires, but you can mount the Rx box behind the rear body brace to resemble a gas tank. Then free up that space for the battery up front. Spin the tranny 180* so the battery lays across the top of the motor and not in the spur.

[calcagno45]

Looks good. Why not mount the electronics on the rock sliders like in the 10.2? This would free up real estate up from for the battery mount. That's my layout and get 98% compression before smacking the servo.

[Boopernator]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

You'll have to extend the servo wires, but you can mount the Rx box behind the rear body brace to resemble a gas tank. Then free up that space for the battery up front. Spin the tranny 180* so the battery lays across the top of the motor and not in the spur.

I had the motor point to the front, and it caused a mounting issue with the upper links. But I like that idea and might try to figure something out. I could reverse the link bolt so the nut is on the outside of the chassis.


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[Boopernator]

Originally Posted by calcagno45

Looks good. Why not mount the electronics on the rock sliders like in the 10.2? This would free up real estate up from for the battery mount. That's my layout and get 98% compression before smacking the servo.

Do you use the stock battery tray for this? Or something else?


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[dna4engr]

I'd only mount to the sliders if you're going to run smaller Comp batteries.

Howler RC makes a battery tray that's bolt in. I think others make an almost identical tray.

It puts the batter right in front of the transmission but behind the shock towers across the chassis l to r
This works really well to shift weight forward and keep it low.

Definitely don't run it in back. Defeats the whole purpose of a comp rig.

I run mine over he rock sliders but they're only 800 mah 4s packs.

On my 1.9 I run it in stock scx10 2.0 location. But again small packs.




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[Boopernator]

I do have the Howler tray. I didn't try and mount that yet. I did like it on my previous SCX10 build. And definitely don't want the battery in the back. Just had to do something to get it running for a test and cure my itch to crawl.


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