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03-11-2008, 11:38 PM
| #41 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 251
|  Quote:
-Dan | |
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03-11-2008, 11:40 PM
| #42 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Charlotte
Posts: 77
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Good to hear.
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03-12-2008, 08:25 AM
| #43 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Hinsdale
Posts: 181
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Those panels look nice on there, I can image the aluminum ones will look even better though. How much did your wheelbase reduce bending the stock links? was there enough pinion angle change to be a problem? looks like a solid idea to my broke ass haha  -Adam |
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03-12-2008, 01:58 PM
| #44 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 251
| Quote:
The pinion angle in the back will be a little to your benifit. I would worry more about the front. The caster angle will be effected which will effect the steering. I was not worried about it since I had to build new upper links anyway. Making new uppers allowed me to set the pinion and caster where I wanted. I have noticed you can run the pinion up a little higher than what you would on a 1:1. The reason why you might look at doing so is to increase ground clearance. With bent links a lot of the time your driveshaft is hanging down more that the links. Which can effect you in break over type climbs. -Dan | |
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03-12-2008, 03:03 PM
| #45 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Hinsdale
Posts: 181
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Ok Dan thanks for the help, now I have my next project |
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03-13-2008, 09:11 AM
| #46 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 251
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got a question... is there anything that would be a direct replacement for the plastic link ends? I am ripping them apart. I have the set screw in them as far as it will go and it is still pulling out. I think I saw some aluminum ones on someone elses project. -Dan |
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03-13-2008, 05:29 PM
| #47 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Hinsdale
Posts: 181
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Ill take a look around for ya, I could use some too. How are you pulling them out? Sounds pretty intense. You could always try some Zap glue on the threads if you moved fast putting them in  |
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03-13-2008, 05:31 PM
| #48 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Hinsdale
Posts: 181
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03-13-2008, 08:04 PM
| #49 |
| Moderator   Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In my head
Posts: 2,744
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You could always make your own links using revo rod ends they are 4mm they usually hold up in a super truck.
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03-13-2008, 09:58 PM
| #50 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 251
| Quote:
I am pulling them out from beating on it.. LOL. I tried glue on an old truck it pulled them out anyway. -Dan | |
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03-17-2008, 11:02 AM
| #51 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 251
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I am back in town and hopefully will find a little time this week to work on the buggy. the panels I made from plastic for the roof and sides are trashed. I guess I need to go ahead and cut them from aluminum. I would prefer lexan but no one here in town has some thin enough. Any ideas where to get a small piece over the net? It might last a longer than the aluminum ones in the dent department. -Dan |
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03-17-2008, 11:15 AM
| #52 |
| Newbie  Join Date: May 2007 Location: rockmart
Posts: 42
| rod ends
rc4wd.com has metal ones. different sizes.
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03-17-2008, 04:24 PM
| #53 |
| Moderator Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In my head
Posts: 2,744
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I ordered some sheet lexan for my copperhead from my LHS it was .04 and .06 thick. I looked like it was going to be too thick but worked out fine. I believe he ordered extra so he should still have some left.
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03-17-2008, 07:03 PM
| #54 |
| Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: denver
Posts: 5
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You might think about kydex for your panels. It comes in .030,.060 and .093. one side of kydex is smooth the other has a finish. One nice thing about it is with a little heat (heat gun) it is moldable.
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03-17-2008, 07:17 PM
| #55 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama
Posts: 6,777
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Dan, I work at U.S. Pipe in Bessemer AL. I use the lexan from the shields that grinders use out here.  I am sure you could get your hands on some of that if you dont already have it.
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03-17-2008, 07:25 PM
| #56 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Fresno
Posts: 472
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Looks fantastic Dan. You could always use RC4WD's metal ends that aren't bent, like the Axial ones, and screw them in at an angle instead of straight like you have them... Wow, that almost makes sense.
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03-18-2008, 05:25 PM
| #57 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 251
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I am going to have to do something different. put set of plastics ones in again last night. Lasted a couple minutes then they started to fail. I guess I should not get it bound in like that and still throttle it. LOL | |
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03-18-2008, 05:37 PM
| #58 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Arat Alabama
Posts: 2,678
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03-18-2008, 05:45 PM
| #59 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 251
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BTW... I picked up another AX10 today. I guess I will put the EDGE chassis back together. Gotta have something for my kid to drive. -Dan |
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03-18-2008, 05:50 PM
| #60 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Hinsdale
Posts: 181
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Hey did you check out the metal link ends from TCS I linked you to? (no pun intended) They looked like they would work. I was hoping you would order some so I could see how they worked haha  |
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