help me setup my links--lots o pics

[lil' lucifer]

I just got a new chassis and I have no idea how to setup the links for optimal crawling.

and any advise or links would be greatly appreciated. I have searched but not finding what i need.

I have.......
55mm uppers and lowers on front suspension.
98mm uppers on rear, 101 bent lowers on rear.
stock ax10 shock with two limiter inside each shock = about 1/2" ish
I am running thicker oil.
7oz in each front tire, 3oz in each rear tire.

Questions....
-what angle for the pinion is the best fro crawling? I know this makes a huge difference.

I have nerver run droop before and I thought some elastic bands would help the suspension from unloading when climbing slopes. They do but...???I have tried putting links in different hole but I have no idea what I am doing at all.

Here are some pics....

[Coop980]

I dont know much on link setup but I run droop on everything and too keep the suspension from unloading I run internal shock springs under the shock piston TCScrawlers has a good selection. Also what chassis is that?

[dirtydirtysouf]

the only thing i can see wrong is your lower links at the frame need to be closer together........that woulkd make it a real trinagulated 4-link


can i ask what frame you are running? its a pretty neat shape

[calcat430d]

hey what chassis is that you are running. looks very innovative. does it require a longer rear drive line. looks like the skid is moved forward quite a but.

[hitman46mod]

Your link setup looks ok. Although whoever designed that chassis must not be concerned with binding in the rear drive line.

And internal springs would look and work alot better. This must have been the 60/40 you mentioned

[lil' lucifer]

The chassis is called Certain death. Bought from builder in Canada. And yes the skid plate is pushed fowards and needs a longer rear driveshaft.

Internal springs. Not sure what you mean? So instead of the limiters inside the shock you run a small spring? or would it be on the other side of the piston?

pic would be great so I could stop asking questions???

[lil' lucifer]

Originally Posted by hitman46mod

This must have been the 60/40 you mentioned

yup! still don't understand that term. (newbie)

[hitman46mod]

Originally Posted by lil' lucifer

yup! still don't understand that term. (newbie)

Yes you would place a spring inside the shock between the shock body and the piston sorry no pic. And a 60/40 setup is a biasing of the center line of the rig so that one end has more of its weight spread to one (usually the front) end or the other.

A 60/40 is a good setup for verts.

[lil' lucifer]

which one????

top pic or bottom??? (i think the bottom one but no sure)

and would i stil use the limiters inside shock?

[lil' lucifer]

what length of spring am i looking to buy or cut to?
am i looking for a soft, medium or hard spring?

[Coop980]

The bottom pic is correct.I run a limiter on the outside of the shock body too set my ride height and a soft internal spring inside long enough too hold it against the limiter on its own.On my new scale chassis Im running no limiter with the same length internal spring below the shock piston with a short spring above the piston inside too set ride height working alot like an air shock and am having good luck so far.

[EeePee]

Compared to a 50/50 truck with equal length links, the 60/40 has 60% of a length links in back, and 40% of a length links in front. So the truck had shorter links in front.

It's a weight bias thing. Technically, the terminology never made sense, but the idea is there.

[brokendiff]

i'd like to see a pic of that 84 yota on propane,sounds like a nice set-up.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by lil' lucifer

which one????

top pic or bottom??? (i think the bottom one but no sure)

and would i stil use the limiters inside shock?

The droop springs I use are the RCP Crawlers droop springs. You want them around the shock shaft itself to help keep the shock compressed and from unloading on climbs. Thicker oil can help slow things down a bit if thats needed.

As far as link mounting. In a droop set up,you want more vertical separation at the chassis vs. the axle on the rear. This gives you more squat on acceleration and helps keep the rear planted. If there's less vertical separation,you'll get some anti squat. That'll cause the rear to raise and the shocks to unload on acceleration. Thats good for a sprung set up with the shocks topped out at ride height.


Look at the car from the side. The distance between the uppers and lowers at their mounting locations,is your vertical separation.

[lil' lucifer]

Originally Posted by brokendiff

i'd like to see a pic of that 84 yota on propane,sounds like a nice set-up.

still a work in progress.:-P
getting ready for exo cage.

[lil' lucifer]

Originally Posted by raptorman57

As far as link mounting. In a droop set up,you want more vertical separation at the chassis vs. the axle on the rear. This gives you more squat on acceleration and helps keep the rear planted. If there's less vertical separation,you'll get some anti squat. That'll cause the rear to raise and the shocks to unload on acceleration. Thats good for a sprung set up with the shocks topped out at ride height.


Look at the car from the side. The distance between the uppers and lowers at their mounting locations,is your vertical separation.

great info...

so you want more seperation between lower and upper links on the rear end. To keep the ass planted. what would you want for the front end?? opposite?

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by lil' lucifer

great info...

so you want more seperation between lower and upper links on the rear end. To keep the ass planted. what would you want for the front end?? opposite?

More separation at the chassis side vs. the axle side...on the rearend. That would give you squat on the rear of the car.

When I ran droop front and rear,I ran opposite on the front axle. Worked well for me. Some will argue the fact that is works that way. I feel it does. I now run droop on the front and sprung rear(on my super) and sprung all around on my 2.2
Nice Yota BTW. I run an 87 X-cab full width exod with all the goodies wearin 37" shoes.

[Tanis]

Originally Posted by raptorman57

More separation at the chassis side vs. the axle side...on the rearend. That would give you squat on the rear of the car.

When I ran droop front and rear,I ran opposite on the front axle. Worked well for me. Some will argue the fact that is works that way. I feel it does. I now run droop on the front and sprung rear(on my super) and sprung all around on my 2.2
Nice Yota BTW. I run an 87 X-cab full width exod with all the goodies wearin 37" shoes.

Yep, less separation at the chassis on the front, and more separation at the chassis on the rear.

[lil' lucifer]

great now I understand how to set up links....thanks guys

but what about pinion angles. where do i point them?? flat? pointed at tranny? higher than tranny?

[lil' lucifer]

so this morning i put more vertical seperation on the rear suspension.....and HOLLY! I was amazed what a difference that just did!!!

AT 1st I had to use elastics on the front suspension to keep it from unloading on a 59* slope. But this morning I changed the rear links only and put drivers link on top of the four link mount and I could walk up 62* slopes WITHOUT ANY ELASTICS ON THE FRONT AT ALL!!!!

amazing!!! Going to tune front suspension and I need to set my knuckles flat with the ground. Front pinion angle way to high in air.(did lots of searching this morning on pinion angles.)

still going to put internal springs so I can get rid of elastics.