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Thread: split end of stock plastic driveshaft in first 2 hours

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Old 08-28-2009, 04:08 PM   #1
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Default split end of stock plastic driveshaft in first 2 hours

split the end of the rear c drive shaft end that the metal drive shaft yoke pin connects through w/in first 2 hours of new ax10 rtc. how do i proceed from here? tried the ziptie fix to give it more strength but immediately had to pull it off because the knot of the ziptie hits the spurgear. not sure how ppl are using that technique. is there a way to fix this until i can order new? (see pic) also, why are they so cheap made? didn't bind or anything tough. just crawling down a trail w/ a few roots and rocks. nothing major.

Last edited by neuro242; 08-28-2009 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 08-28-2009, 05:43 PM   #2
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I swear some of them snap like toothpicks. Probably differences in the plastics.


RTC has the slipper clutch doesn't it?
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:01 PM   #3
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That right there is the one heartache issue with the AX10. Once you twist a drive shaft off like that it is pretty much junk and needs to be replaced. The cheap fix is two-fold, first, upgrade to Traxxas drive shafts (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJJ82&P=ML), once they are installed put small zip-ties on them, BEFORE you run it. To make it a little less ghetto, you can get shaft rings (http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Axial-Racing-Driveshaft-Ring-with-set-screw-2-each-AX30501-p-17288.html). This should solve your problem. The next step up is to go with a metal drive shaft (TCS has a good selction).

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:22 PM   #4
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It doesn't matter if you have a slipper or not, I snapped mine with a slipper.

Time to upgrade to Traxxas or MIP's. Sorry to hear about your breakage,

maybe some of your buddies will have an extra one till you get new ones.
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:09 PM   #5
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yeah, ordered some but of course not for the weekend so i took some plastic from a ziptie and got the soldering iron out and gheto'd it up. its holding for over an hour now. im surprised. now, im constantly having the yoke come off the tranny shaft. 3x so far. got some thread lock on it but doesnt seem to be the issue. the little hex screw isnt backing out, its just sliding off the shaft and leaving grooves. im looking at this thing thinking the yoke should be knotched like the shaft. cant believe it's not. thats ok though, ill keep it up thru the weekend and have the real deal next week. so far im seeing some of the week spots ive been reading about so im not surprised just kinda let down.
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:25 PM   #6
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mip's pretty much stop that, they snap the tranny outputs instead. haven't found the next week spot yet. although seems to have moved from rear output to front cvd's on mine, 5 pins and a shaft in a week. hope the mip's are stronger there to cause i got two sets at lhs today.


you can try adding a set screw on the other side to double them up.
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:44 PM   #7
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i keep reading these threads about the rtc drive shafts. mine have held up fine. i beat the crap out of it too. ive held the throttle wide open in many binds and still nothin. maybe the ones that are breakin were built on mon or fri lol. i just find it odd that mine has withstood so much punishment with no breaks.
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:51 PM   #8
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Another vote for the MIP's here. I have a set in on my Edge. I have had them for a year running a Goat brushless system with no breakage.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:01 PM   #9
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It happened to me on first day.... what to do????? I plastic weld it. Works like charm... I used my soldering iron and melt parts of plastic from"plastic tree that came witht he kit.....

Last edited by Mudsy; 08-28-2009 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:08 PM   #10
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I've added m3 cap screws chopped down to fit for the yokes on the trans output, more meat to torque down on. Those m3 set screws with a 1.5mm hex drive are a joke. Has been holding for awhile now with maxx shafts. Just remember that the maxx yoke next to the spur may need to be shaved.

To be fair my stock rtc shafts are mostly still intact, aside from that stripped set screw I had to use the backout on. Had maxx shafts layin around so the upgrade was a no brainer

Last edited by Meatwad; 08-28-2009 at 08:12 PM. Reason: I'm a dumbass
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzbuildr View Post
It doesn't matter if you have a slipper or not, I snapped mine with a slipper.

Time to upgrade to Traxxas or MIP's. Sorry to hear about your breakage,

maybe some of your buddies will have an extra one till you get new ones.
Yeah slipper doesnt help, but it also pushes the spur gear out which hits the zip tie. Lose lose for me, I wasted money on that part.
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:16 PM   #12
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yeah, i was wondering about the slipper. whats the point. how many ppl are going so far by removing it?
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:18 PM   #13
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will the traxxis one bolt right up? what ones fit? just asking...
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccrawler66 View Post
will the traxxis one bolt right up? what ones fit? just asking...
Nope it's not bolt on. Maxx yoke is 8mm iirc. Ax10 trans output and diff input shafts are 5mm. Couple ways to get around it
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neuro242 View Post
split the end of the rear c drive shaft end that the metal drive shaft yoke pin connects through w/in first 2 hours of new ax10 rtc. how do i proceed from here? tried the ziptie fix to give it more strength but immediately had to pull it off because the knot of the ziptie hits the spurgear. not sure how ppl are using that technique. is there a way to fix this until i can order new? (see pic) also, why are they so cheap made? didn't bind or anything tough. just crawling down a trail w/ a few roots and rocks. nothing major.
welcome to the world of crawling...
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Old 08-29-2009, 01:46 AM   #16
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+47 MIP Shafts neva had i problem i snapped the stockos in no time as well but i had a novak goat in there aswell W-E-L-C-O-M-E to crawling dude HA
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:14 AM   #17
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Traxxas stampede shafts snap on the axial metal joints and hold up really well for around 8 bucks. Mips are the best way to go but $. Locktite and dual set screws are your friends on the yokes. When ya snap the outputs, DNA makes real steel ones. Welcome to crawling
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Old 08-29-2009, 10:14 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhippie View Post
Traxxas stampede shafts snap on the axial metal joints and hold up really well for around 8 bucks. Mips are the best way to go but $. Locktite and dual set screws are your friends on the yokes. When ya snap the outputs, DNA makes real steel ones. Welcome to crawling
Didn't know about the pede shafts
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Old 08-29-2009, 11:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meatwad View Post
Didn't know about the pede shafts
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Traxxas-S...1-p-16157.html
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Old 08-29-2009, 11:38 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neuro242 View Post
split the end of the rear c drive shaft end that the metal drive shaft yoke pin connects through w/in first 2 hours of new ax10 rtc. how do i proceed from here? tried the ziptie fix to give it more strength but immediately had to pull it off because the knot of the ziptie hits the spurgear. not sure how ppl are using that technique. is there a way to fix this until i can order new? (see pic) also, why are they so cheap made? didn't bind or anything tough. just crawling down a trail w/ a few roots and rocks. nothing major.
It must be something with the way they are making them on the RTC because I am using the stock driveshafts on my RTR that is over 1.5 years old and never had any problems with the drive shafts. Also my SCX10 is using the stock driveshafts and its at least 8 months old and no problems with the drive shaft either.

The only thing I can think of is either your throttling while in a bind and snapping stuff or your using brushless motors/LIPO and over powering the AX10. It could also be poor quality control on axial side.
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