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Old 12-11-2009, 12:29 AM   #21
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So its fair to say that if your look to compete, even at the local level, that tubbers may have a slight disadvantage? I feel like this is the consensus.. I'm slowing being talked into a regular chassis. I looked through some of the pictures and someone used an 1/18th scale body for their truck and it looked real slick and low profile.. what I'm shooting for..
I checked out your pics What chassis do you have?
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Old 12-11-2009, 12:47 AM   #22
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my berg is on a slingshot,my son is on a slingshot,and my wife is on a custom cut corbon fiber chassis that uses a slingshot skid.
slingshots are made by dna,dna had a couple of people running it. I dont know what happened but one of the original dna guys[don]has opened up billet work designs. and he puts out some sweet products that work.
and heis a crawler himself.
I am a poorboy with 4 2.2 rigs and 2 1.9 rigs
I cant afford new nothing,evrything I buy I try to buy used.
but for an axial if I had the money I know I would be doing my trading with BWD cuz the guys that run his stuff have nothing but good things to say about his products and him.he is a good guy I have meet him at a few comps.I havent really talked to him much but I can see the way he is with the other drivers.his is one of the companies you would want to support.

and both of my 1.9 trucks are slingshot chassis.

you can find a used slingshot with links and plats for around $50-$80
but try to get delrin not alum.
keep the wieght down.
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Old 12-11-2009, 12:56 AM   #23
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Ill check it out, I've been hearing a lot about dna.. And thanks for all the help.. ill try to do some more searching around this weekend.
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Old 12-11-2009, 12:57 AM   #24
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anytime
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:10 PM   #25
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Sooo some updates... still looking for a chassis.. I found this one by Hot-Racing.. real cool looking.. then some more research and I found that they are a rip off of the SPV2 chassis and it only saves you $2.. them.. So I've got $160 to spend....
Holmes Hobbies SPV2 $60
HB Rovers $36

Now I would like to get a new motor and esc in the near future.. however I think I'll wait till it craps out first.. so what about some lipos now so that I can get by cog lower but get batteries that will also work for in the future..

To do that I suppose I need to choose a motor.. Right? I'm thinking the Tekin 45t combo... My buddy says I should get the novak rooster.. what are the differences.. the only thing I see is that the Tekin can take 2S and 3S lipos..Whats that mean? I know nothing about batteries and its my next purchase.. some quick help is needed.. Thanks everyone.
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:30 PM   #26
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look in the vendor section someone is or was running a special on the HB rovers buy a pair get a pair free
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Old 12-17-2009, 09:48 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TANK08 View Post
look in the vendor section someone is or was running a special on the HB rovers buy a pair get a pair free
Hey thanks for the heads up, I'll check it out.
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Old 12-17-2009, 08:02 PM   #28
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erc,
dont spend 50+ on a motor
get a integy 45t,and dont worry about that hand wound crap.
you can find a integy 45t for around 20-30
if not I have one barely used
they have plenty of power.on a dyno they are very close to other handwound motors.
but the tekin combo is a pretty good deal.
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Old 12-18-2009, 10:34 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rock hard View Post
erc,
dont spend 50+ on a motor
get a integy 45t,and dont worry about that hand wound crap.
you can find a integy 45t for around 20-30
if not I have one barely used
they have plenty of power.on a dyno they are very close to other handwound motors.
but the tekin combo is a pretty good deal.
It seems like people don't like Integy on here.. I was reading a thread and they were talking about how Integy and Hot-Racing are Chinese company's that rip their ideas from American ones??

But I'm not buying a motor yet.. I'll wait till mine craps out.. I did buy some HB Rovers from CKRC crawlers!! I have a comp on Saturday so I need some batteries that will work with what I have now and a possible motor esc that I'll eventually get.. I need those batteries on the axle..

I'm headed to my LHS (A Main), they have a couple guys that know what they're talking about with batteries.. and I need to be shown stuff when it comes to electrical.. I'll let you know what I come up with.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:33 PM   #30
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you should post pics of your broken 3-link and drive shaft maybe go with venom 4 link and shafts?
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:39 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmarsh View Post
I too just started modifying my stock axial. Probably the most noticable changes I have made so far was I got some soft and super soft axial springs and I limited my shock quite a bit to lower the cg. And probably the biggest change I made was buying my rovers. I put 6oz in the front and 3oz in the rear on my stock axial rims. So I guess I am giving you a second vote for the rovers

O and Rock Hard is right, once you start crawling with some more experienced guys you can learn a LOT. I sure have
I'm curious how did you limit your shocks to lower them? i've heard you can put rubber hose inside. if this is how you do it, then how much hose do you add to each shock?
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:38 AM   #32
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the body is probably fine for local comps But i think it's out of spec for big comps. It needs to be a certain heigth. Sorry i don't have the exact measurements. Mounting your battery over the front axle will really lower your cog. Axial makes a front servo mount/battery tray.
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Old 01-26-2010, 01:03 PM   #33
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Where are those pics bud?
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Old 04-18-2010, 08:23 AM   #34
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the rovers a slightly taller
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