A Newbs Crawler

[Erc]

So I have been poking around on the forums here for a month now and I've done a lot to my crawler and plan to do more because of my readings. I have decided its time to post some pics and get some feedback. So here she is.. Its a work in progress..



So the Mods: (Stock Axial)
Mirrored Tranny
Weighted Front Axle
Springs removed from shocks
Weighted tires with mag wheel weights

What I'm looking to do and where i need a little advice:
Tuber Frame
Dig Unit
Tires

As for the tuber frame

Originally Posted by BEELZEBOB

if its for shits and giggles, get a R2j tuber.

if its a comp rig, go for the SWX

I was looking at the R2j and was interested, however the SWX, ive heard a lot of good things about. What makes a chassis a comp chassis? I have yet to compete but am planning too. I know I'm looking for multiple shock mounting options, i like to tinker with setups, I like a low profile chassi, and i most crawl on garden rock or lava rock outcroppings.. From that what would be my best bet? Oh and i need to fit a DIG into it. Ive read that it can be difficult with some chassis.. im not the best at planning things out so i like to keep it simple.

DIG Unit- Read a lot about them, Know that i want rear dig, and im thinking a Punk Dig. Opinions?

Tires - Either HB Rovers or Panthers, I'd like to know which ones are taller, I am also on a budget and would rather not purchase foams seperate, so if they come with foams great, if not i will be using my stock foams from my axial (they havent been cut or moddified so i can do that if need be)

In the mean while, I am moving my body mounts using these clamps from the hardware store, i plan to do some crawling over christmas,
Ill clamp them to my cross peice and use the stock post. $2.50

Droop Suspension - I though all you had to do was remove the springs... the more I read though, the more I think im messed up or not finished. Theres internal springs in my shocks.. Is this true? I didnt want to dump my oil out to find out.. Any help on this would also be great.
Thanks in advance, please feel free to comment my feelings wont get hurt.

[2500hdon37s]

panther cougar tires! best tire ever IMO! and i wouldnt get a tuber if is gonna be a comp rig, but the swx seams to be a great for a comp chassis and dig id say DNA but they went out of biz and somebody else took over

[rock hard]

continue driving what you got for now.
put the strait links in the front and bent in the rear.=free

swap out your tires for some rovers and add about 4oz to the front
nothing to the rear=$30-tires,wieght free at walmart tire center-stick ons

you really need a front battery plate. you will move your serv to one side
this allows you to mount your battery down low and next to the servo,
running up the links towards the trans. just mount some lexan to your upper link.pu on some velcro and you will be set. this will drastically lower your c.g. and improve your abilaty to climb,sidehill.= $15-30I cant get my pic to post but in my album is a pic of my battery down low/you really should go lipo in the future,it is the only way to go.

try to find someone with a cheap 2.4 used for sale. it is a must have.
you can use a losi mrc radio/rx used and they are cheap=$25-45

when your motor craps out,and it will.get a fxr-45Tcombo
it has plenty of power and is 2-3slipo ready and is easy to program/adjust
and again you crawling will improve as a result=$100+/-

and your servo will be lacking dont get anything less than 300oz of torque
and I sugest a company like jr-ht as I know that the product and customer service is good. and a servo with that much power it is fairly safe to buy used and save some coin.I found a jr 9100t for 60 and it has been good.=new $100-150 for a great servo

but you will need a chassis at some point.
you can get a good used one with all the links and plats/hardware for around 50-$80 I found a used fiber slingshot with everything needed for 80.

but have fun with what you got,start learning to see lines that are hard but possible and be patient and try to let the parts come to you.

you need to find your local crew and start crawling,you will learn more in one comp than you can imagine.

[Erc]

Thanks for the help guys, so I've got one vote for the panthers and one for the rovers, I currently have 8oz in each tire and probably 10-12 ounces in the front axle.. I've crawled around quite a bit and feel really comfortable and knowledgeable on how it handles and I am ready to buy some upgrades. Does anyone have pictures or dimensions of the differences in the panthers and rovers?

[Bmarsh]

I too just started modifying my stock axial. Probably the most noticable changes I have made so far was I got some soft and super soft axial springs and I limited my shock quite a bit to lower the cg. And probably the biggest change I made was buying my rovers. I put 6oz in the front and 3oz in the rear on my stock axial rims. So I guess I am giving you a second vote for the rovers

O and Rock Hard is right, once you start crawling with some more experienced guys you can learn a LOT. I sure have

[Erc]

Any other help guys, Ive done a lot of reading and searching around, I just need some opinions that relate directly to what I'm trying to do.
I like the droop setup. -Not sure if I'm doing it completely right
I would like a low profile comp chassis.
And probably the taller of the tires (rover or panthers) to help out with ground clearance for the low profile look.
As soon as I get a chassis I'll order up some custom lipos to fit perfectly where they need to go.
Thanks again for the help, I'm real anxious to spend some money and don't want to blow it on the wrong choices.

[Tanis]

You really want front dig not rear dig(front dig=fronts spin/rears lockup)
Rovers are taller than panthers and work better on lava rock.

There are not springs inside your shocks, unless you put them there.

SWX is a great comp chassis

[rock hard]

dont forget to swap out your lowwer links.
strait up front bent in the rear.

and on your lipos just get a couple of 2s maybe around 800-1,000
dont spend much,as a matter a fact just stay with the stick packs till you get a fxr. then you can go 3s

I run 3s 500's they are small,light,and cheap.I payed $20 each with deans
I have one per course=4 batteries=$80 and if one goes bad[havent yet]
I only lost $20 and still have 3 more.
it gives you twice the run time needed for a long course.
and trust me try no wieght in the rear.
when you climb the trucks wieght is naturally pushed to the back tires.
so you really dont need it. I run as light as possible in the rear.

[Redfinger]

x2 onths swx.... I scored a swx chassis kit for 29.99 I got lucky but there z great chassis.... as far ax tires go I would really suggest the proline "chisel" tires. I love how they work on my rig, and I dint remember them being too exspensive

Ashton

[rock hard]

the chizels are a good tire
but I would run a slingshot chassis or maybe the wedge if they have it for the axial.
check out billet works thread in the venders section.

[Erc]

Thanks for all the advice, ill do some research tomorrow after work.

[yellowpasta2000]

for your dig go with the Vanquish Products dig! supposably the best 1!

[Erc]

When i switch my links and put the straight in the front and bent in the back, should i put them on the inside of the shocks or outside? Currently they are on the outside however ive seen them both ways. Is this just preference?

[rock hard]

on my chassis they are inside of the shocks.but they mount on the inside of the skid as well.
you are running a stock chassis,the links mount on the out side of the skid.
so they will probably need to be on the outside of the shocks as well.

[4ufearthis]

look's like your off to a good start. just try what ever work's for you that's what i do. i like the new hpi rock grabber tire's they work well and a tall tire. look's nice and good luck. all and all just have fun with it.

[Erc]

Originally Posted by rock hard

on my chassis they are inside of the shocks.but they mount on the inside of the skid as well.
you are running a stock chassis,the links mount on the out side of the skid.
so they will probably need to be on the outside of the shocks as well.

I mounted the shocks on the outside of the links, everything fits and works, and i changed links so the straight are in front and the bent are in back.

I also got my posts for my body moved while i wait for a chassis and cut my chewed up body to fit, it sits really low now, almost toching my stick pack, so i had to trim a bunch..

I took my t-maxx out to some bike jumps and figured i would take my crawler, played around in some mud.. didnt get any while out there - had a controller in my hand, - but heres some after.. you can see my body i cut from the stock.. the tongue on the front grows on you after a while

[rock hard]

it looks like you are drooped way low.
that is good for side hilling but when you climb I think it will hinder you.

I have 3 trucks,havent measured in a long time.

I am going to measure my clearance under the skid on axle/no tires/wheels.

[Erc]

I'm not to sure on how to do the droop set up correctly.. I like the real low look.. I'm fairly positive I'm going to pick up some panthers and that should give me a half inch I'm thinking. I'm still researching on how to use smaller springs and what not for droop..

The measurements will help though.. from what i heard.. 2.5-3.5 inches??... not sure

[rock hard]

ok axles on the table my wifes axial has just under 2" in the clear
my sons axial has just over 2" within a 1/16"

my berg has just over 2 1/4" under the belly.

if you imagine the rocks as they drag under the truck on the links
you want a clean transition from front links to the skid and clean from the skid going down the rear links.
thats why you want the strait up front.it makes a smoother line.=less for the rocks to hang up on.

now alot of tubers run thier trucks low like that.but tubers are not the best performers on the rocks,they dont crawl nearly as good as they look.

take a look at other trucks links and the way they look/ angle
ther is plenty of pics in the axial topic one of the threads is all pics.
look at everyones links.and the overall stance of the truck.

[rock hard]

eric I want you to look at post #8 in the pic. archive.
that is to high

post #17-pic#4=almost to low.

post#1059=good angles

trucks above all have stock chassis

post #1061-sweet set up,could be better but sweet
dna slingshot chassis,wheels,ect.=perfect. look at the set up of that truck
I can just look at that truck and tell you a kid can crawl with it.


as a matter a fact I went to crawl with the east texas guys last weekend and I took my brotherinlaw.
he drove my wifes truck.
now not only had he never crawled before.he had never driven a rc ever.
he posted a 15 on his 1st course.
if a truck is dialed it just goes where you point it.

and you dont want to much articulation.
about 35 deg. per axle is plenty.
to much articulation is alot of trucks problem.