RCCrawler Forums

JustinThyme · 11-10-2010, 04:43 PM

Looks real cool so far!! Make sure you take a full range of pix of it once complete it and BEFORE you run it. Your lower links and driveshafts...at a minimum...aren't gonna be looking nice and pretty very long. It doesn't take much to make them look really worn.

As was mentioned by some, that much aluminum on a crawler is a lot, especially when it's purpose (lower links) is to slide across sharp rock edges. Don't let anyone talk you out of your vision, just making sure you know what you're up against.

It is very common to use aluminum knuckles, C-hubs, rear hubs and steering linkage. Steel for the driveshafts.

As for mounting your ESC and receiver, on a stock chassis like yours, what most people do is buy a sheet of .030 lexan at your LHS, and cut out little
"trays" that they zip tie to the gaps in the up Y links. And you want everything as forward as possible. Since the ESC is heavier, it's probably better to put that on the front links, and the receiver on the rear links.

I haven't been to a comp yet, but I've met up with several forumites and checked out their trucks, as well as following discussions here. I think you'll find that in the long run, ingenuity, custom parts and duct tape make up as much of the big guy's rigs as does store bought parts.

For example, here is my ARTR Ax-10 I bought:

The only original items are the axel assemblies and the tranny. Replacement chassis (Underground Crawlers Fastback) with custom made links and body panels. If you look real close in that pic right in front of the rear shock, you can barely make out the dusty lexan plate and the Rooster ESC on it. In this pic, you can see how my receiver was mounted on the tranny. It's since been updated with front and back trays, as I described earlier.

Remember, weight as far forward and as low as possible.

Semper Fi!
Happy Birthday, Marines!

cagedcbr · 11-10-2010, 04:43 PM

Thanks, I would appreciate that just to get some different set-up ideas. Here is the same thing switched around. This could be contrary to what your saying though because the lower links are now angled in slightly at the axle, not 100% though until I get the skid I ordered and see how they sit they may just sit straight because I believe the skidplate mount the links in a bit not right against the side plates. ARGH!!! I hate waiting for parts LOL.

cagedcbr · 11-10-2010, 04:50 PM

Hey JustinThyme, thanks for the compliments. To tell you the truth most of the stuff I grabbed for the truck is due to the fact that it's what was in stock. As I just mentioned I HATE waiting for parts. I know those lower links are going to get mauled I did want just the tube 30 degree rears but.... not in stock . I'm so pumped to get this thing rolling and running I can't wait LOL I had to talk myself out of an Integy aluminum axle because I know it's going to be crap, just because of the wait on the Axial axle assembly.

One thing I do like building this way though as opposed to a RTR or ARTR or similar is that I can fine tune everything right away, only problem here is I'm learning as I build

irok22s · 11-10-2010, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Shiny.

x2.

Duuuuuuuude · 11-10-2010, 06:04 PM

You DO NOT want your lower links set up like that. Take some time and see how everyone else is doing theirs. They need to be close together at the skid, and far apart at the axle.

cagedcbr · 11-10-2010, 06:34 PM

I thought even just by looks alone the other way was better. Another bonus I discovered tonight was the original shocks I got from my friend have metal balls in the ends. I had to buy the RTR hardware upgrade since I really didn't have hardware for the truck and that comes with plastic balls. So now I have enough steel balls for all 4 links. Anyone have an opinion on the difference? I sometimes like the plastic ones on touring cars ect... just because when things start getting warn out and loose you can usually tighten the plastic balls a little more and squish them a bit to take up any slack. I don't think having the trucks links tight would be ideal but at least it may ad a bit of tuning ability in a different area.

PhantomRS10 · 11-10-2010, 06:44 PM

Like that body too

cagedcbr · 11-11-2010, 09:35 AM

Well I ran out this morning to the LHS to check if my skid plate had come in (it did not) and picked up my upper links, some hardware and a Novak Rooster Crawler. I set up the linkage up front the closest I could tell without a skid plate and eveything is golden. Took a few new pics for today because I will not be updating for few days, got to take care of some home reno stuff over the next few days. Cheers.

Everything I have for now minus a few peices

Trans with Slipper, I have to make my own 6mm spacers for it still

Links up close.

Axial/BC 4 link mount, Axial lockouts. Still looking for an axle assembly.

Front flexing.

JustinThyme · 11-11-2010, 10:12 AM

Great progress! Are those steering arms and C-hubs plastic or aluminum? They kinda look like plastic in the pic, yet that is the place where you REALLY want aluminum!

cagedcbr · 11-11-2010, 10:48 AM

They are plastic at the moment, the hobby shop has the clockable Axial C's. I may be back there later today or tomorrow morning to pick them up. As for the steering knuckles, I'm not 100% sure if I want to buy them alone or go with Axials BTA that comes with them anyways. They will be upgraded though for sure, also still need to think about getting some CVD's in the near future. The hobby shop has some 3Racing CVD's but I think I'll hold out and order some MIP's.

cagedcbr · 11-11-2010, 10:58 AM

Hmmmmm, after looking around a bit I think I will nix the Axial BTA idea. I don't like the fact that the plate doesn't retain the 4-link. Any suggestions?

Also can anyone give me their opinion on mounting the upper links on top of the axle plates vs. underneath? Or is this just something I will have to play around with later, I tried them on top but the plastic link ends seemed to contact the plate before the shocks were fully flexed.

Duuuuuuuude · 11-11-2010, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cagedcbr

Hmmmmm, after looking around a bit I think I will nix the Axial BTA idea. I don't like the fact that the plate doesn't retain the 4-link. Any suggestions?

Also can anyone give me their opinion on mounting the upper links on top of the axle plates vs. underneath? Or is this just something I will have to play around with later, I tried them on top but the plastic link ends seemed to contact the plate before the shocks were fully flexed.

LD Racing makes a good front battery plate that retains the 4 link.

Underground Crawlers makes a bitchin rear 4 link plate called the D-Mount that is guaranteed not to bind your balls.

cagedcbr · 11-11-2010, 03:18 PM

Yeah I was looking at that d-mount, I had saw it in another thread. Also I flipped my transmission, I figured what the hell everyone is saying such good things about it eliminating torque twist.

cagedcbr · 11-11-2010, 04:44 PM

OK one last update for today I guess since I have no more parts LOL. Mirrored trans and used the stock Axial servo plate for a speed control mount. Also got the reciever mounted, I may return the Rooster if the LHS's in my area have a Tekin (last minute decision).

Transmission shot

Servo plate turned esc mount

cagedcbr · 11-14-2010, 03:55 PM

I will update with some pics but I just picked up a Novak Goat 2S esc and motor. The speed control might be burned out but the motor is perfect and the best part is I picked them both up for $20. So I'm going to have to pick up a lipo pack to try out the ESC and worse comes to worse use Novaks exchange program. I will still be saving over what I paid for the Rooster and I don't have to worry about upgradng the only electric motor I have in the future (Orion Pilot 23T)

11-10-2010, 06:34 PM	#26
cagedcbr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Posts: 445	I thought even just by looks alone the other way was better. Another bonus I discovered tonight was the original shocks I got from my friend have metal balls in the ends. I had to buy the RTR hardware upgrade since I really didn't have hardware for the truck and that comes with plastic balls. So now I have enough steel balls for all 4 links. Anyone have an opinion on the difference? I sometimes like the plastic ones on touring cars ect... just because when things start getting warn out and loose you can usually tighten the plastic balls a little more and squish them a bit to take up any slack. I don't think having the trucks links tight would be ideal but at least it may ad a bit of tuning ability in a different area. Last edited by cagedcbr; 11-10-2010 at 06:36 PM.

11-11-2010, 09:35 AM	#28
cagedcbr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Posts: 445	Cuckadodaldooooooo, new parts. Well I ran out this morning to the LHS to check if my skid plate had come in (it did not) and picked up my upper links, some hardware and a Novak Rooster Crawler. I set up the linkage up front the closest I could tell without a skid plate and eveything is golden. Took a few new pics for today because I will not be updating for few days, got to take care of some home reno stuff over the next few days. Cheers. Everything I have for now minus a few peices Trans with Slipper, I have to make my own 6mm spacers for it still Links up close. Axial/BC 4 link mount, Axial lockouts. Still looking for an axle assembly. Front flexing.

11-11-2010, 10:58 AM	#31
cagedcbr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Posts: 445	Hmmmmm, after looking around a bit I think I will nix the Axial BTA idea. I don't like the fact that the plate doesn't retain the 4-link. Any suggestions? Also can anyone give me their opinion on mounting the upper links on top of the axle plates vs. underneath? Or is this just something I will have to play around with later, I tried them on top but the plastic link ends seemed to contact the plate before the shocks were fully flexed. Last edited by cagedcbr; 11-11-2010 at 11:05 AM.

11-10-2010, 04:43 PM	#21
JustinThyme Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: McKinney Posts: 344	Looks real cool so far!! Make sure you take a full range of pix of it once complete it and BEFORE you run it. Your lower links and driveshafts...at a minimum...aren't gonna be looking nice and pretty very long. It doesn't take much to make them look really worn. As was mentioned by some, that much aluminum on a crawler is a lot, especially when it's purpose (lower links) is to slide across sharp rock edges. Don't let anyone talk you out of your vision, just making sure you know what you're up against. It is very common to use aluminum knuckles, C-hubs, rear hubs and steering linkage. Steel for the driveshafts. As for mounting your ESC and receiver, on a stock chassis like yours, what most people do is buy a sheet of .030 lexan at your LHS, and cut out little "trays" that they zip tie to the gaps in the up Y links. And you want everything as forward as possible. Since the ESC is heavier, it's probably better to put that on the front links, and the receiver on the rear links. I haven't been to a comp yet, but I've met up with several forumites and checked out their trucks, as well as following discussions here. I think you'll find that in the long run, ingenuity, custom parts and duct tape make up as much of the big guy's rigs as does store bought parts. For example, here is my ARTR Ax-10 I bought: The only original items are the axel assemblies and the tranny. Replacement chassis (Underground Crawlers Fastback) with custom made links and body panels. If you look real close in that pic right in front of the rear shock, you can barely make out the dusty lexan plate and the Rooster ESC on it. In this pic, you can see how my receiver was mounted on the tranny. It's since been updated with front and back trays, as I described earlier. Remember, weight as far forward and as low as possible. Semper Fi! Happy Birthday, Marines!

11-10-2010, 04:50 PM	#23
cagedcbr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Posts: 445	Hey JustinThyme, thanks for the compliments. To tell you the truth most of the stuff I grabbed for the truck is due to the fact that it's what was in stock. As I just mentioned I HATE waiting for parts. I know those lower links are going to get mauled I did want just the tube 30 degree rears but.... not in stock . I'm so pumped to get this thing rolling and running I can't wait LOL I had to talk myself out of an Integy aluminum axle because I know it's going to be crap, just because of the wait on the Axial axle assembly. One thing I do like building this way though as opposed to a RTR or ARTR or similar is that I can fine tune everything right away, only problem here is I'm learning as I build

11-10-2010, 06:04 PM	#25
Duuuuuuuude Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 11,652	You DO NOT want your lower links set up like that. Take some time and see how everyone else is doing theirs. They need to be close together at the skid, and far apart at the axle.

11-10-2010, 06:44 PM	#27
PhantomRS10 RCC Addict Join Date: May 2010 Location: So. Charleston. Wv Posts: 1,221	Like that body too

11-11-2010, 10:12 AM	#29
JustinThyme Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: McKinney Posts: 344	Great progress! Are those steering arms and C-hubs plastic or aluminum? They kinda look like plastic in the pic, yet that is the place where you REALLY want aluminum!

11-11-2010, 10:48 AM	#30
cagedcbr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Posts: 445	They are plastic at the moment, the hobby shop has the clockable Axial C's. I may be back there later today or tomorrow morning to pick them up. As for the steering knuckles, I'm not 100% sure if I want to buy them alone or go with Axials BTA that comes with them anyways. They will be upgraded though for sure, also still need to think about getting some CVD's in the near future. The hobby shop has some 3Racing CVD's but I think I'll hold out and order some MIP's.

11-11-2010, 03:18 PM	#33
cagedcbr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Posts: 445	Yeah I was looking at that d-mount, I had saw it in another thread. Also I flipped my transmission, I figured what the hell everyone is saying such good things about it eliminating torque twist.

11-11-2010, 04:44 PM	#34
cagedcbr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Posts: 445	OK one last update for today I guess since I have no more parts LOL. Mirrored trans and used the stock Axial servo plate for a speed control mount. Also got the reciever mounted, I may return the Rooster if the LHS's in my area have a Tekin (last minute decision). Transmission shot Servo plate turned esc mount

11-14-2010, 03:55 PM	#35
cagedcbr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Posts: 445	I will update with some pics but I just picked up a Novak Goat 2S esc and motor. The speed control might be burned out but the motor is perfect and the best part is I picked them both up for $20. So I'm going to have to pick up a lipo pack to try out the ESC and worse comes to worse use Novaks exchange program. I will still be saving over what I paid for the Rooster and I don't have to worry about upgradng the only electric motor I have in the future (Orion Pilot 23T)

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