whats the big deal with an new chassis

[bishballs]

What is the big deal? Sorry for the newb question, but what exactly does an aftermarket chassis provide that a stock chassis doesnt? Is it really worth it?

[mudn_1]

link geometry....Center of gravity....etc....

[doors4u]

Not worth it at all. That's why all of the comp guys use stock stuff. It makes a huge difference on an Axial. There are a lot of great options out there for you. I run an SWX on mine. The T1E and Gatekeeper are the ones I would look at if I were you. I am parting mine out or I would be looking into another chassis. I like to build as much as I like to drive. I have the SWX dialed in pretty good, but am looking for another challenge.

[TedBull]

I have two gatekeeper chassis and I like them alot. I had a SWX and did not like it, I feel the gatekeeper is a better product. Also the gatekeeper chassis comes with all the links, rod ends, hardware and link & servo plates. It works with all of the aftermarket digs. So yes, a aftermarket chassis is the first step in building a capable comp rig. Next would be shocks, I like the losi 4" comp shocks. And you just keep upgrading from there.

[JustinThyme]

As was mentioned, the reason there are so many after-market chassis is because the Axial isn't appropriately flexible (malleable) to get good performance. For starters, it's 3 link instead of 4, which hinders articulation. Additionally, there aren't many link/shock mounting options to tweak performance wise. Finally, it's top heavy, even if you do mods to get hardware lower.

I have the UGC Fastback, which is out of production.

If I were to do it now, my prime contenders would probably be UGC Viper or T1E Moonbuggy. These chassis often times also shift the front/back CG forward, where you want your weight on a crawler.

Keep in mind, if you go for a replacement chassis, unless included with the chassis itself, you will have to manufacture all 8 links yourself. Once you find the chassis you want, try PM'ing someone who uses it and ask a bunch of questions just so you don't end up with a big surprise like I did.

[TrailDawg362]

Originally Posted by TEDBULL

I have two gatekeeper chassis and I like them alot. I had a SWX and did not like it, I feel the gatekeeper is a better product. Also the gatekeeper chassis comes with all the links, rod ends, hardware and link & servo plates. It works with all of the aftermarket digs. So yes, a aftermarket chassis is the first step in building a capable comp rig. Next would be shocks, I like the losi 4" comp shocks. And you just keep upgrading from there.

X2. Unless you're good at setting up a chassis and getting all the geometry right, the Gatekeeper GC3A is the way to go. Assemble as illustrated and you can't go wrong.

[bishballs]

Originally Posted by doors4u

Not worth it at all. That's why all of the comp guys use stock stuff. It makes a huge difference on an Axial.

I dont get it. Are you being sarcastic? Not worth it but it makes a huge difference?

[bishballs]

Originally Posted by JustinThyme

As was mentioned, the reason there are so many after-market chassis is because the Axial isn't appropriately flexible (malleable) to get good performance. For starters, it's 3 link instead of 4, which hinders articulation.

Isnt too much articulation a bad thing? And cant I make it a 4 link? Sorry, but Im still learning.

[mint355]

Originally Posted by JustinThyme

As was mentioned, the reason there are so many after-market chassis is because the Axial isn't appropriately flexible (malleable) to get good performance. For starters, it's 3 link instead of 4, which hinders articulation. Additionally, there aren't many link/shock mounting options to tweak performance wise. Finally, it's top heavy, even if you do mods to get hardware lower.

I have the UGC Fastback, which is out of production.

If I were to do it now, my prime contenders would probably be UGC Viper or T1E Moonbuggy. These chassis often times also shift the front/back CG forward, where you want your weight on a crawler.

Keep in mind, if you go for a replacement chassis, unless included with the chassis itself, you will have to manufacture all 8 links yourself. Once you find the chassis you want, try PM'ing someone who uses it and ask a bunch of questions just so you don't end up with a big surprise like I did.

Ummm not to sure about the stock chassis hindering flex. When i think back to when my ax10 had a stock chassis i think i had about 95+ degrees of articulation. Now my FF-4 chassised ax10 has about 60-70 degrees and that is how it is with most comp rigs!!!

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by bishballs

I dont get it. Are you being sarcastic? Not worth it but it makes a huge difference?

Yes, he was being a smart ass. Anyway, as others have stated, different aftermarket chassis' will offer better things here and there.

The best advice I can offer now is to keep using your rig. When you see that it has an issue somewhere, look up how to solve it. Granted, the homework has already been done for you, now you just need to do the research. But, of course there is a chance that maybe you dont need a new chassis.

I vote for using your rig the way it is. If you want to start upgrading, do it smart...and do your research.

Casey

[bishballs]

Thanks KC, appreciate the answer, without the sarcasm.

[version_three]

Originally Posted by KC_JoNeS

The best advice I can offer now is to keep using your rig. When you see that it has an issue somewhere, look up how to solve it. Granted, the homework has already been done for you, now you just need to do the research. But, of course there is a chance that maybe you dont need a new chassis.

I vote for using your rig the way it is. If you want to start upgrading, do it smart...and do your research.

Casey

That's great advice - I know for a while I was upgrading things 'just because' and ended up spending a lot of money on things I didn't need (which really didn't help my rig) and ended up replacing later anyway.

Buy the good stuff the first time around - it may cost more up front, but it will save you money in the long run.

[LIKES2CRAWL]

One important thing to remember when it comes to changing things and tuning is to do ONE thing at a time....TEST....and ONE thing....TEST....etc...

If you change to many things in between testing then it's harder to pinpoint what is helping and what is hurting your performance.

[dstrbd1]

All I can say is when I first started crawling I spent a ton of time tuning the stock chassis and I thought it was as good as any. Eventually I worked my way to an Under Ground Crawlers FF4 fastback hybrid. (No longer available....Boo...) Boy was I wrong. This aftermarket chassis WAY outperformed the stock chassis right out the gate before I even started tuning. There are some really great chassis out there. Just spend some time reading.

[Narly1]

A useful intermediate step (from a minimal expense and learning perspective) is to do the Stage 2 mods as shown here:

http://www.rccrawler.com/axialcompbuild.html

Pull the trigger on an upgrade chassis once you have wrung all the performance you can out of the stock one. Doing it this way will also give you a chance to figure out what characteristics you want in your next chassis.

Narly1

[bishballs]

Nice. Thanks.

[gyrene]

Originally Posted by LIKES2CRAWL

One important thing to remember when it comes to changing things and tuning is to do ONE thing at a time....TEST....and ONE thing....TEST....etc...

If you change to many things in between testing then it's harder to pinpoint what is helping and what is hurting your performance.

That's GREAT advice there. Take your time, don't get in a hurry.
I always forget this step until I realize I made too many changes and I'm not sure which one was the RIGHT one.

[Manning]

The stock chassis isn't that bad. Run it.

It's the stock 3 link that limits things a bit. Especially in the rear.

[K.O.M.]

The stock chassis is actually fine if you are just playing around and bashing.

Once you start organized competition with gates, reverse penalties, time limits, and impossible lines, then you will quickly run into the limitations of the stock chassis.

My newbie build in the link below in addition to the "Comp" build listed above addresses some of the issues that the stock chassis has.

Universally, the biggest problems with the stock chassis when you start trying for really hard lines are:

1. skid--specifically the lower link attachment points (external--catches on everything) and the lack of triangulation which leads to some axle steer--all of which can be remedied by getting a skid with inboard lower link mounts

2. torque twist--this is always present with ring/pinion shaft drive designs, now way around it--people try for upper link mods like 4-link, but I think it only partially addresses the issue--I have found that an overdrive front AND underdrive rear will virtually eliminate torque twist--however this will introduce other problems (or advantages--do the research)

You will have to customize your chassis based on where you run. I've taken the AX10 projects on all types of rock, and there are places where the stock chassis works better than my SSS-R and vice versa.

For example, the local HobbyTown has a course that rewards lots of skid clearance while as running out in Joshua Tree on that "Monzo Granite" you pretty much have to run your AX10 slammed like a sports car because there is so much traction, you need to really lower your CG.

[Mud Puppy]

For me it came down to the "thrust angle" of the rear suspension. The stock plates just did not allow me to change the angles of the suspension arms enough.



As you can see I've got the rear 3-link sloped down from the rear axle to the frame. This really helped with keeping the nose planted on steep climbs.