Cheap SOB Crawler Build

[slowride1]

an if u can get some glod springs on there will help you out some as well

[hpiguy]

I'll pick some up if I don't have them (bought a bag of springs on here recently)

Did some work last night. Carefully cut my links down to get a 12.25" WB, got the drive shaft angles where I want them, laid the shocks down, moved my upper links, added chassis spacers / stiffeners, and got my body mounts where they need to be. I'm around 2.5" under the skid, got SCX shocks coming too. Once I get my electronics trimmed up and wired in, she's ready to rock n roll.





Obligatory poser shot

[slowride1]

looks better

move the rear shock back 1 hole

take it an try it an see if its not better . im sure it will be

[slowride1]

when u get the scx shock I think I had the 2 holes in on each end .
mini t green springs out back silvers up front an 30 wt oil

[cboggs]

Put those rear upper links on top of the axle plate, and move your rear shocks back a hole for those shocks. SCX shocks work good in the top front or one back hole in the front and the middle bottom hole in the rear. I liked running the MRC blue springs rear and MRC silver on the front with 30wt. oil. Check out my build thread on the Ringer if you want a very dialed in car.

[MRCrackhead]

Shaping up to be a very sweet rig.

Nice job.

Sucks having all these guys that know exactly how to dial in your chassis, huh?

Lucky bum......

[slowride1]

ya I had ho beff with mine at all

I ran nabail I think is his name an he drives a natts wining ringer
an our setups were relly close to one an others. you will find what I say works needs fine tunning but it would be really close . we all seem to run alittle diff setups to what we drive on an personal preffs

[hpiguy]

Thanks again guys, I'll make those changes and check those threads also.

Originally Posted by MRCrackhead

Shaping up to be a very sweet rig.

Nice job.

Sucks having all these guys that know exactly how to dial in your chassis, huh?

Lucky bum......

Yeah man, it's a tough life It really helps out though, a bunch.

Cleaned up the electronics tonight, and UPS hosed me on a part that was supposed to be here by 8PM, so I'm stuck till tomorrow.

I had this before



Decided to try my first smash, pile of leftovers on the right (still need to heat shrink the bullet connectors)

[hpiguy]

Couple more updates, Savox 1231SG, Racer's Edge dual clamping horn, and Crawler Innovations servo clamp / guard. I also moved all the upper links to the top, got my electronics mounted, and took it for a quick spin inside to test everything.

[chris.martell]

The rig is shaping up rather nicely bro

[hpiguy]

Thanks Chris, it's getting there, a little bit at a time.

[hpiguy]

Got my SCX shocks built up tonight using cboggs seutp (thanks cboggs!!). Also, what are the rules on cutting my body to follow the lines of the rear links for breakover? I mean, where is the height of the body measured from; from the tallest point, or the shortest where I cut it at?

[cboggs]

Body can be cut anywhere as long as you have a minimum of 3" on the side, usually ends up being from the top of the windshield area down from there. Minimum 12.5" length and 5" width. Width will also usually be the same area for your measurement as the side.

[hpiguy]

Good deal, thank you sir!

[hpiguy]

Did some more work on the rig tonight. Got my SCX shocks installed, and removed the Losi shocks, which may end up on the Wraith.



Huge difference in size and weight.



I also beveled and rounded my rear left lower link that was interfering with an upper link. I think I'm going to add a small spacer under the frame side of each upper also.

[chris.martell]

Do you plan on beveling both the links?

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

[cboggs]

Looking much better, have you got to run it yet since the change?

[hpiguy]

Originally Posted by chris.martell

Do you plan on beveling both the links?

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Probably, but not because it needs it, it will just bug me if I don't.

Originally Posted by cboggs

Looking much better, have you got to run it yet since the change?

Thanks, I haven't gotten to run it since it was in the old frame actually. Either family commitments, or weather has put a stop to fun every weekend.

[slowride1]

move the bott. of the shock to the outside of the mount an put the link an a spacer in the mount . this will make the shock clear the link

[hpiguy]

The shock clears ok, the bottom link actually binds into the upper link, but only on that side.