RCCrawler Forums

EeePee · 09-08-2007, 01:59 PM

Because of this...

I'm trying this out. Prototype made of plastic, if all goes well, I'll drill out the metal plate from the kit. Adjustable for squat numbers too.

cwkoehler · 09-08-2007, 02:23 PM

Keep us posted

thanks

cwkoehler

ctrwannabe · 09-08-2007, 05:01 PM

man thats awsom, i would like to do it but i have located my batter try on the front axle so i donno ill have to figure soemthing out theire

firetacoma · 09-08-2007, 08:31 PM

First day of real use... about 2 hours in I told me friend to just give it more skinny (trigger?) and the link popped out and cracked the mount in the process... can I just use some JB weld? Maybe fill the entire hole with jb weld and then drill out a new hole? Thoughts?

cwkoehler · 09-08-2007, 09:37 PM

So who can step up to the plate and make an identical bracket as the problem area out of metal using a CNC or like machine? Takers?

cwkoehler

firetacoma · 09-08-2007, 10:53 PM

nevermind. I are a dumb noobie.

bmuzz1 · 09-08-2007, 11:28 PM

That set-up looks pretty trick and also like a relatively straight forward fix.

I had the same problem with mine (link popping out) so I moved the lower suspension links to the center holes on the bottom of the chassis. This adjusted the pinion angel and it hasn't popped out since...Or maybe I've just been lucky? I think I'm going to have to give this a try.

Racer4Life · 09-08-2007, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwkoehler

So who can step up to the plate and make an identical bracket as the problem area out of metal using a CNC or like machine? Takers?

cwkoehler

The problem, as EeePee pointed out on another forum is that you can't use the metal pivot point. With a mount being metal and the ball metal too, you would not be able to pop it into the joint like you can with plastic.

bmuzz1 · 09-09-2007, 01:01 AM

I relocated my upper link as you pictured and it seems to have fixed the problem. I May have lost a little bit of articulation, but I will have to test it out on my backyard rock garden tomorrow.

rockcrawler_101 · 09-09-2007, 03:28 AM

you wont loose any travel if you leave a little bit of threads showing with that setup because when the joint runs out of travel the threads will take up the rest.

EeePee · 09-09-2007, 07:10 AM

I ran two packs through the truck with good results. Meaning, no problems. Because I have actually moved the instant center of the rear links the truck seems to behave a little better now. But I might be imagining things... but maybe not. I mentioned it's adjustable for anti squat numbers, so I can move the IC around even more and try it out.

Like Racer4lifeyo mentioned, the difficulty of producing an Aluminum version of the stock piece is being able to get that pivot ball in there. I believe it can be cast somehow, but I just don't know. This is a really easy fix I've come up with, and took me all of 5 minutes to make and mount the thing.

The only problem, if you can call it that, is the upper links hit the shocks when the truck is super flexed out. Mine is pretty light running a 3 ounce brushless motor, and a Mamba 25 with the battery located on the front axle so I never did get a lot of flex, but that's okay, I don't like a lot of flex. And now that I think about it, I could move the links further in on the chassis, then redrill the hole on the axle plate and everything should clear without interference.

LIKES2CRAWL · 09-10-2007, 02:32 AM

More pics and updates?

crawls2thewalls · 09-10-2007, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racer4Life

The problem, as EeePee pointed out on another forum is that you can't use the metal pivot point. With a mount being metal and the ball metal too, you would not be able to pop it into the joint like you can with plastic.

aluminum rod ens always come with the ball in place.. so relax, i'm sure the upper mounts will be also, duh..

crawls2thewalls · 09-10-2007, 01:09 PM

they can obviously do the same with the new upper mount, right..

ecoli · 09-10-2007, 01:44 PM

Only problem I can see is where can you mount a rear servo for 4WS or dig? Maybe extend the mount plate forward, remove the y-adapter for the upper link and mount each link individually? Guess it's not really a problem if you don't plan on running a rear servo!

Chris

crawls2thewalls · 09-10-2007, 01:54 PM

you cant, this would be more for comps..no rws..
for dig, you can mount the servo directly to an r2..if you have one that is..

CLICK_HERE_TO_SEE

EeePee · 09-10-2007, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIKES2CRAWL

More pics and updates?

Sure, the battery is charging at the moment. I'll bring my camera outside with me this time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crawls2thewalls

they can obviously do the same with the new upper mount, right..

Right. But I think they make those from a cast. Truthfully, I don't know. I'm sure someone can manage to come up with an aluminum piece that replaces the stock piece. But for now, this works for me, and I made no mods to anything. So if and when a replacement piece comes along, there's no problem installing it.

freetimecrawler · 09-10-2007, 08:20 PM

That looks like it'll work out just fine. Nice little fix Eeepee

I used a washer in mine when I first built it, and haven't had any problems (yet) but I do have a nice piece of Aluminum plate laying around here, a new set of bits for the drill press, and some freetime

binaryterror · 09-10-2007, 08:48 PM

I think if Axial or any other company goes to make a fix for this, its going to look like this one by EeePee or something like my 4-link plate. Very simple to make and yet very effective without the problems associated with the stock piece.

Racer4Life · 09-10-2007, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crawls2thewalls

aluminum rod ens always come with the ball in place.. so relax, i'm sure the upper mounts will be also, duh..

Ever used those from RC4WD? They suck! You have to make spacers to allow them to flex!

As to how they make them, not sure. I would think that if it was doable, it would already be in production!:-P

09-08-2007, 01:59 PM	#1
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	Rear Upper Link Mount Mod Because of this... I'm trying this out. Prototype made of plastic, if all goes well, I'll drill out the metal plate from the kit. Adjustable for squat numbers too.

09-08-2007, 02:23 PM	#2
cwkoehler Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: carmel Posts: 52	Keep us posted thanks cwkoehler

09-08-2007, 05:01 PM	#3
ctrwannabe RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: San Antonio, Tx Posts: 1,093	man thats awsom, i would like to do it but i have located my batter try on the front axle so i donno ill have to figure soemthing out theire

09-08-2007, 08:31 PM	#4
firetacoma Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 15	First day of real use... about 2 hours in I told me friend to just give it more skinny (trigger?) and the link popped out and cracked the mount in the process... can I just use some JB weld? Maybe fill the entire hole with jb weld and then drill out a new hole? Thoughts?

09-08-2007, 09:37 PM	#5
cwkoehler Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: carmel Posts: 52	So who can step up to the plate and make an identical bracket as the problem area out of metal using a CNC or like machine? Takers? cwkoehler

09-08-2007, 10:53 PM	#6
firetacoma Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 15	nevermind. I are a dumb noobie.

09-08-2007, 11:28 PM	#7
bmuzz1 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: San Tan Valley Posts: 4,267	That set-up looks pretty trick and also like a relatively straight forward fix. I had the same problem with mine (link popping out) so I moved the lower suspension links to the center holes on the bottom of the chassis. This adjusted the pinion angel and it hasn't popped out since...Or maybe I've just been lucky? I think I'm going to have to give this a try.

09-09-2007, 01:01 AM	#9
bmuzz1 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: San Tan Valley Posts: 4,267	I relocated my upper link as you pictured and it seems to have fixed the problem. I May have lost a little bit of articulation, but I will have to test it out on my backyard rock garden tomorrow.

09-09-2007, 03:28 AM	#10
rockcrawler_101 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: San Juan Bautista Posts: 268	you wont loose any travel if you leave a little bit of threads showing with that setup because when the joint runs out of travel the threads will take up the rest.

09-09-2007, 07:10 AM	#11
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	I ran two packs through the truck with good results. Meaning, no problems. Because I have actually moved the instant center of the rear links the truck seems to behave a little better now. But I might be imagining things... but maybe not. I mentioned it's adjustable for anti squat numbers, so I can move the IC around even more and try it out. Like Racer4lifeyo mentioned, the difficulty of producing an Aluminum version of the stock piece is being able to get that pivot ball in there. I believe it can be cast somehow, but I just don't know. This is a really easy fix I've come up with, and took me all of 5 minutes to make and mount the thing. The only problem, if you can call it that, is the upper links hit the shocks when the truck is super flexed out. Mine is pretty light running a 3 ounce brushless motor, and a Mamba 25 with the battery located on the front axle so I never did get a lot of flex, but that's okay, I don't like a lot of flex. And now that I think about it, I could move the links further in on the chassis, then redrill the hole on the axle plate and everything should clear without interference.

09-10-2007, 02:32 AM	#12
LIKES2CRAWL I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: KENNEWICK, WA Posts: 2,513	More pics and updates?

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09-10-2007, 01:09 PM	#14
crawls2thewalls Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: NOR*CAL Posts: 476	they can obviously do the same with the new upper mount, right..

09-10-2007, 01:44 PM	#15
ecoli I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Canada, eh. Posts: 2,919	Only problem I can see is where can you mount a rear servo for 4WS or dig? Maybe extend the mount plate forward, remove the y-adapter for the upper link and mount each link individually? Guess it's not really a problem if you don't plan on running a rear servo! Chris

09-10-2007, 01:54 PM	#16
crawls2thewalls Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: NOR*CAL Posts: 476	you cant, this would be more for comps..no rws.. for dig, you can mount the servo directly to an r2..if you have one that is.. CLICK_HERE_TO_SEE

09-10-2007, 08:20 PM	#18
freetimecrawler Debunking old stereotypes Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: 1st and Amistad Posts: 2,260	That looks like it'll work out just fine. Nice little fix Eeepee I used a washer in mine when I first built it, and haven't had any problems (yet) but I do have a nice piece of Aluminum plate laying around here, a new set of bits for the drill press, and some freetime

09-10-2007, 08:48 PM	#19
binaryterror I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Detroit Posts: 3,583	I think if Axial or any other company goes to make a fix for this, its going to look like this one by EeePee or something like my 4-link plate. Very simple to make and yet very effective without the problems associated with the stock piece.

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Thread: Rear Upper Link Mount Mod