Axial's new driveshaft ring (fix)

[toy4crawlin]

Originally Posted by moonweed

while I wait for a set of RC4WD Punishers to be shipped to me.

I have not heard anything great on punishers, they do not last , the u joint pins wear and become sloppy

may I suggest sticking to your jato or going to revo .

i have a super with mamba x & outrunner, broken everything except revo shafts

Originally Posted by EeePee

You guys just don't seem to get the built in weak link theory.

If you had to break something, or a part that would fail, what would you prefer it to be? Because in this hobby, it's guaranteed something will break if you drive the thing past it's limits.

Sly remarks and comments without usefull Detailed info should be REMOVED from this Forum.
It's about Helping and making PROGRESS

[binaryterror]

I think EeePee's post has merit.

If you are stuck at a comp and had to choose something to give, wouldn't you like it if the driveshaft popped out so you could take a low point penalty to quick fix the shaft. I mean you can not quick fix a tranny, spur, or ring and pinion without tools.

[moonweed]

Originally Posted by toy4crawlin

I have not heard anything great on punishers, they do not last , the u joint pins wear and become sloppy

may I suggest sticking to your jato or going to revo .

I've heard the same thing. I do have the resources to make titanium pins and plan to do so. These shafts will probably end up in another project of mine after I try them out on the AX10.

Yes those bent links are a different color. They need to fire their tankline QA person if they can't get their anodize colors to match up. ;) I'm in the process of deanodizeing and polishing everything to a mirror finish.

[Difuser]

The only bad part on Ti is that in a rotating situation Ti is very abrasive and would force a wear point on whatever material it is mating with.

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by moonweed

and yes I know the bent links were on backwards from the direction everyone else runs them.

I run mine like yours, only not nearly as aggressive.

Skid Plate Mod

Originally Posted by toy4crawlin

Sly remarks and comments without usefull Detailed info should be REMOVED from this Forum.
It's about Helping and making PROGRESS

I can bring water to the horse, or I can show the thing the river.

The weak link driveshaft theory is old news. But there's always the guys that try to build a bulletproof truck. They seem to argue for a while, then some of them come around. For a few years now I've been competing and when the truck breaks the easiest thing to fix, and without the additional tool penalty I might add, is a driveshaft. If you want to try to bulletproof your truck, well, have at it. I have yet to see one truck that I think can withstand all the abuse a comp setting brings upon these things. I'll take a 1 minute fix and get 5 points, you can try to fix your truck in 30 minutes and take the tool points too. Then you learn to not push it hard enough to have to take a repair, because you can do 4 reverses before you get 5 points. Reverse only once to stay out of the situation that might break the truck, and you're 4 points ahead.

When I pop off a shaft, it's done. Trashed. $6 and I get 4 new pieces. There's nothing cheaper on our trucks than that, and nothing on our trucks are easier to replace than a driveshaft.

I used to have problems with servo horns breaking. I was real close to using a wingscrew to keep it in place to not have to take a tool penalty too. Comps can be won by a single point.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by EeePee

You guys just don't seem to get the built in weak link theory...

I don't like weak links and when it breaks I build it stronger.

I used the inner races from some Traxxas bearings part number: 5120,
12x18x4mm. Use and X-Acto to pry the rubber seals out, then push the races out the side, scoop all the balls to one side of the bearing and the inner race will fall right out.

Press the inner races (12mm id) over the plastic Axial driveshaft ends all the way to the base of the ears, then assemble as usual. Once the metal yokes are installed, use a pair of pliers to slide the metal rings down over the plastic yoke ears...you're done and they are not as thick as the Axial rings so they won't drag on the rocks as easily. I did have to use a little sand paper on the base of the plastic driveshafts to get the rings to slide on all the way so that I could spread the ears and install the metal yokes.

[cato]

I don't get it, been in rc for ever, Crawling for 6 months or so and only have had the AX10, been in several comps etc... and not once have i popped a drive shaft!!!!!!!!!! Shortly after getting the rig (and reading the ramblings on this forum about the faults of the ax10; I wunder how long it took to get the tlt or wheelyking drivetrain to be unbreakable) I installed a "SLIPPER-CLUTCH" very simple, cheap install ($20 +- ) and problems gone.

[lowtideride]

I also don't believe in weak links. I don't build any weak links in my full size real trail rigs. If something breaks on them I upgrade them allowing my rig to get pushed further and further into some huge rocks. Making a weak point would have me fixing the same damn part all the time with out ever getting over a harder obsticle.

When something breaks you improve it in the real world. I feel that it should be the same for the ax-10 crawler. I broke the driveshaft in half with in the first 3 minutes of use on this rig. It needs a serious upgrade in driveshafts. I plan to build this thing that the motor will stall before axles and driveshafts break(65turn). This is just my 2cents.

[alabamaman]

AS per the norn I have to be on Jeff's side with this one .If you only have some smart comment or nothing helpfull what so ever to add ,,,then do not add anything !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mama allways said if you do not have anything nice to say keep your mouth shut !!!!!!!!!! Breaking parts is both setup and use, I am not super compettive but I have driven the same tlt axles w/pede tranny for three years at sercrc events and have never replaced a single part due to breakage or wear (same diif gears even) But I drive very easy and slow, But I will never be a national champion -or beat one !

[shenlonco]

Moonweed I used maguires crome wheel cleaner it takes off the anodizing very fast in fact you see it start coming off a few seconds after you put it in it! Here is what i used:
http://www.meguiars.com/estore/produ...uct_g14024.jpg

Cato if you don't mind me asking what slipper clutch did you use and was it a direct fit?


Thanks

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by shenlonco

Cato if you don't mind me asking what slipper clutch did you use and was it a direct fit?

Thanks

X2, what slipper bolted right on?