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Thread: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

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Old 02-02-2023, 03:18 PM   #1
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Default HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

I put together my first 2.2 sporty last year using the Asylum chassis and Capra axles. I decided I wanted another with straight axles and loaded dice weights.
I've considered the loaded dice weights a number of times over the years but had always been turned off by the way you have to cut the bead on a tire and the gluing process.

Anyway I finally pulled the trigger and ordered up a 5th dimension sucker punch, a set of SSDlux axles, the new Dlux NOD-2 transmission (tiny straight axle transmission) and some Dlux loaded dice weights and wheels.







I also grabbed some Dravtech shocks (short) and added a 6mm spacer for a 90mm eye to eye setup. I believe i'm running soft springs at the moment.

The first thing I started to tinker with was the steering. Dlux recommends a 20mm long servo horn which I ordered but I just couldn't get the full throw that these axles can do. I think it was less than 45. Let me know if I'm missing something.
So I tried a few 24mm long servo horns, the VP version I had fit best as it doesn't extend up from the servo much.
In order to get full throw I had to grind away a bit of the servo mount/truss.





Then I worked up a new design for the servo mount brackets that hang off the carbon fiber plate.
These guys:


The new (3D printed) version moves the servo down, back and to the passenger side. This along with a shorter drag link allowed the 24mm horn to just clear and get me full steering throw. How well this works also depends on the pinion angle, a bit of an angle up is fine (5 or less maybe) but anything more extreme may require some bent upper links (to clear the servo horn at full compression).


I came up with a 3D printable jig for glueing up the loaded dice wheels (the inner ring). Again I was always turned off by the loaded dice wheels or the way they're glued up rather.
This jig aligns the back side of the inner ring and the tire. Then you apply glue to the outer face of the inner ring, place the front portion of the jig in the tire bead. Then you can press down on the front peice, flip and do the other side. Then you can glue on the wheel face.
This worked out pretty good at keeping everything centered which was my biggest concern. I will likely put this jig up on Thingiverse soon.



I also clocked the loaded dice weights to make up for the caster I added. I made up a jig to drill the new holes.



Had to file down one of the corners to get it rotated as far as I wanted



One of the screws hangs over the edge. I'm already using a spacer behind the weights so I just added some extra support for these screws.



EDIT: I forgot to mention that the knuckle bottom plates need to be trimmed as they would foul on the weights when clocked. I forgot to get before and after pics but heres the top plate untrimmed which is similar to the bottom:


Bottom after trimming


You can assemble these knuckles a few different ways and this modification may not work if you use the countersunk mounting holes on the bottom plates.

Final position



More to come.

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 02-03-2023 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 02-03-2023, 12:29 AM   #2
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

Wonderful component selection.
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Old 02-03-2023, 06:20 AM   #3
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

Very cool build! I've never driven nor seen a Sporty up close, but have always though they looked like they would be fun to drive.

Looking forward to watching the build process and seeing how it performs.
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Old 02-04-2023, 03:33 AM   #4
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

Love it. I miss the sporty comp day.
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Old 02-04-2023, 07:59 AM   #5
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

Very cool thanks for sharing


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Old 02-08-2023, 09:34 AM   #6
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

nice build ... interestingly enough I got the itch for a sporty and got a hold of a sucker punch kit.. I dont plan to fancy it up as much as your build ... going with capra axles ... i noticed your rod ends are the same style as the provided on my kit ... the ones with the separate taper end. Do you know who makes them? because some of mine are missing the tapered cup end and wanted to get some replacements.
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Old 02-08-2023, 11:27 AM   #7
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

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Originally Posted by hnoroian View Post
Wonderful component selection.
Quote:
Originally Posted by B-MOW71 View Post
Very cool build! I've never driven nor seen a Sporty up close, but have always though they looked like they would be fun to drive.

Looking forward to watching the build process and seeing how it performs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob5059 View Post
Love it. I miss the sporty comp day.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twade984 View Post
Very cool thanks for sharing


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Thanks everyone!


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Originally Posted by Speedy-Triple View Post
nice build ... interestingly enough I got the itch for a sporty and got a hold of a sucker punch kit.. I dont plan to fancy it up as much as your build ... going with capra axles ... i noticed your rod ends are the same style as the provided on my kit ... the ones with the separate taper end. Do you know who makes them? because some of mine are missing the tapered cup end and wanted to get some replacements.
Nice, post it up

I believe you're talking about the link sliders (?) Dlux makes them: https://dluxfab.com/Link-sliders-p6194345

Keep in mind the link sliders are typically for the lower links only since the uppers shouldn't be dragging on anything.

I did play around with different rod ends and these link sliders. They work with most other Traxxas rod ends (Jato long rod ends and TRX4 rod ends) since they are the same diameter on the ends.

I should have another update soon.

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 02-08-2023 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 02-08-2023, 08:51 PM   #8
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

I got a new skid designed for the NOD-2 transmission. It just barely fits, the mount holes are super close to the edges and the clearance for the motor is like 1mm or less. For one of the Trans mount screws I actually had to use a socket head screw instead of a tapered/flathead since it was so close to the chassis, shaves off .2mm lol. I got lucky and the transmission ended up in the right spot on the first prototype. I made a few little changes to clear the driveshaft up front as well as printing it again to get the best quality on the bottom side.

Skid and spacer, the transmission comes with a spacer (to raise the motor 1mm) but I needed to make a new one to clear the link pocket.





The skid on the right is the stock Sucker Punch skid. Its a really nice SLS print (like shapeways)




a little scratched up after some test drives


The motor sits a tiny bit over the edge of the chassis but not so far it requires the offset spacers that come with the Sucker Punch for the outer plates.
(outer plates are not installed in this pic)




The motor just barely clears, its a stubby HH


The front driveshaft also just barely clears. It just happened to end up in a small gap in the brush hood.

At full extension


At full compression, this side is even closer.


Luckily the motor has plenty of mount holes so it can be rotated to suit. I may have gotten lucky with this particular motor fitting. I probably should angle the Transmission a bit to help with clearance with the idea being to share it and allow others to use it.

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 02-09-2023 at 12:18 AM.
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Old 02-10-2023, 12:29 PM   #9
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

I went with a set of the 2.2 Dlux Goat tires in the sticky compound. Previously I've tried these in the hard compound and they weren't as grippy.
The wheels are the loaded dice style 42's



For those not familiar the loaded dice wheels work along with the loaded dice weights. The wheel allows the weights to be larger than the ID of wheel itself. The weights end up in a little slot inside of the wheels.



I got around to checking the wheelbase which changes as the suspension moves. At full compession it gets longer and at full extension it gets shorter. It looked to be about 11 7/8" - 12 5/16" to begin with. I decided to stretch it a bit and swapped out the rod ends on the rear links to get it to 12 5/16" - 12 3/4".
Looking back it probably would have performed just fine with the shorter wheelbase since the front end has so much mass. The breakover would be better if it were shorter but its already really good to start with.

The rod ends I used on the upper links were the SSD M3 HD trailing arm rod ends
I repalced all 4 of the stock rod ends with these.

Then for the lowers I used the long Traxxas Jato rod ends.
I only used 2 of these on the lowers.
I also used 2 of the TRX4 angled rod ends (for their lenght not the angle)
The TRX4 rod ends have a hex built into them so I shaved that off with a razor so it'll slide better.
I reused the Dlux link sliders with the new rod ends on the lower links. They match up perfectly with the new rod ends since they were the same diameter at the ends.

I put the longer Jato rod ends for the rear lowers on the skid side as it provides the most clearance with the bent links (pushing the kink towards the rear).

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 02-10-2023 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 02-11-2023, 02:13 PM   #10
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

Great build!
Looks like you have wrong top right steering arm for that SSDlux setup. The drag link is supposed to be mounted more inboard to get full throw with 20mm horn.
Look at the Dlux site.
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Old 02-11-2023, 04:52 PM   #11
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

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Great build!
Looks like you have wrong top right steering arm for that SSDlux setup. The drag link is supposed to be mounted more inboard to get full throw with 20mm horn.
Look at the Dlux site.



Thank you! good eye


Turns out they sent me mirrored steering arms made for a passenger side offset pumpkin. Looks like I'll need to drill the hole on the passenger side arm.





I guess I'll just run it this way until I need to take it apart down the road.
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Old 02-11-2023, 08:01 PM   #12
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

I made up a battery tray from .5mm thick styrene



Its loosely bolted to the chassis so it can pivot.



I struggled to find an appropriate body. Instead of ordering something in the hopes I could cut it to fit I designed a little buggy cage.
I was able to print the top section in 1 piece which is great. The side pieces serve as sliders and mount points for the side panels.









I made up some templates so I could cut out the panels. I used a mix of PS49 and PS59. I started with a few very light coats of the PS49 and then 3 heavier coats of the PS59 then backed with black.










Last edited by HumboldtEF; 02-11-2023 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 02-11-2023, 09:05 PM   #13
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

Looks great, I really like the cage and panels


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Old 02-12-2023, 04:41 AM   #14
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

Very nice looking rig. Your printer must run 24x7. It usually takes me 3 or 4 attempts before I get a finished product.
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Old 02-12-2023, 12:47 PM   #15
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

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Looks great, I really like the cage and panels


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Very nice looking rig. Your printer must run 24x7. It usually takes me 3 or 4 attempts before I get a finished product.

Thanks guys


The cage was like a 19hr print just for the top, printer was running most of the weekend. I was surprised the first print didnt fail, there were only 4 small points of the print on the print bed and tons of supports.


I may get the cage printed in SLS down the road. I did try to keep the weight down so the cage is hollow (4 perimeters).


It ended up weighing 3.6 oz with everything. I checked the weight of my other sporty body which is very thin lexan, it came in at 1.7 oz.





I also forgot to mention that I ended up with the wrong hubs for the rear axle. I just assumed I wanted the same size for both. But it is noted on the Dlux site that the front axle with a .225 should be paired with a .600 hub for the rear, that gives both axles a width of 9.75" (to the wheel mounting surface).


I've gotten in a few test drives so far and its performing great. The front end is super planted. I'd like to get a feel for it a bit more and then test out some different link positions (anti squat).

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 02-12-2023 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 02-15-2023, 10:16 AM   #16
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

I got a chance to take the steering plates off the knuckles. Odly the shape of the left plate is slightly different than the right but all of the holes do line up. I just bolted these together and used the driver side as a jig to drill the new hole in the other.

I ran a buttonhead screw for the drag link from the bottom up to avoid having a nut on the bottom side which would have hit the axle limiting steering angle.
I believe Dlux intends a 4mm space for this but I found a 6mm spacer worked better. With the 4mm spacer the rod ends were hitting each other and binding up ever so slightly (when close to full lock).




My servo was acting a bit jittery already and the new drag link mount point makes the the steering even more sensetive. Turning down the speed of the servo to 75% helped smooth it back out.

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 02-15-2023 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 02-20-2023, 11:22 PM   #17
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

Great looking rig man, I like it! I like your cage too. Not sure if it is comp legal, but maybe…? It IS a body!
If you do decide you want to comp with it I would suggest you get your WB down to the 12.5” legal max now and get it tuned in at that length. Making WB changes at a comp site is a PITA. I have seen it done too many times.
You might want to get all your tires pointing in the right direction too, but that is just a pet peeve of mine. ;)
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Old 02-21-2023, 11:10 AM   #18
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Great looking rig man, I like it! I like your cage too. Not sure if it is comp legal, but maybe…? It IS a body!
If you do decide you want to comp with it I would suggest you get your WB down to the 12.5” legal max now and get it tuned in at that length. Making WB changes at a comp site is a PITA. I have seen it done too many times.
You might want to get all your tires pointing in the right direction too, but that is just a pet peeve of mine. ;)
Hey Thanks! I appreciate the tips.

I hadn't even considered these tires being directional DOH I'll have to take a closer look later.

I wasn't planning to comp but it would be fun to try at some point. It looks like a cage isnt legal or in the "spirit" of the rules.

copied from the WRCCA . net "Bodied Vehicles only, typically a lexan body that is removable from chassis. Bodiless vehicles are prohibited. Bodies must be of original width and resemble a 1:1 vehicle with cab, door, and hood panels. Vehicle “body” measurements must be greater than or equal to 8"/203.2mm overall length, 3"/76.2mm overall width, and 3"/76.2mm overall height."


I put it on the corner scales, with a battery its about 4.75 lbs, 68/32 front to back and 52/48 left to right. Side to side balance is a little off so I'll tinker with that although it doesnt feel bad as it sits.


Last edited by HumboldtEF; 02-23-2023 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 02-22-2023, 07:23 PM   #19
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Default Re: HumboldtEF's Sucker Punch/SSDlux Sporty

Well I did mess up the direction of the tires. I'm not sure if I should attempt to pull the wheel faces off to fix it or not. Maybe I can live with it, the lug pattern doesn't make it too obvious but I'd prefer to fix it.

I do have a heat gun but I have no experience breaking carbon fiber loose. I feel like It might deform or change the finish on the carbon fiber.

Does anyone have experience heating up carbon fiber to remove a glue on tire?

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 02-22-2023 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 02-22-2023, 11:46 PM   #20
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Well I did mess up the direction of the tires. I'm not sure if I should attempt to pull the wheel faces off to fix it or not. Maybe I can live with it, the lug pattern doesn't make it too obvious but I'd prefer to fix it.

I do have a heat gun but I have no experience breaking carbon fiber loose. I feel like It might deform or change the finish on the carbon fiber.

Does anyone have experience heating up carbon fiber to remove a glue on tire?
I have successfully removed rubber dampeners from my helicopter using acetone and a little heat, if you pinpoint funnel the heat gun it would probably be better for the rubber being more direct to the bead/glue/carbon.

Fwiw, I would feel confident to say that you are meticulous enough in your work not to worry. Carbon is often sealed with CA anyways, and also take a good amount of heat too. Drill out the 2g on the FL and the .5 on the RR be happy, It’s beautiful.

Last edited by hnoroian; 02-23-2023 at 12:03 AM.
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