Budget bomber must do's

[ride1226]

I picked up a bomber the other night in a trade. Haven't had a crawler in years and have mainly been airborne the last few years. The truck came nearly stock but with a 3700kv brushless system that I simply plan to run until it dies, a stripped stock plastic servo horn, strc front lower links, and a 19t pinion installed. I'm not looking to crawl. I want the rig to have solid speeds and be more of a solid axle basher than a crawler. I used to comp crawl with a Losi and some friends and when the group all moved away I got instantly bored on my own. I have a need for speed!

My plan this far is to skip the new servo horn and just get a new servo all together. Looking at a few decent budget servos that I have bought before to fit the bill. My question is, other than that what should I look to in order to make this fit my goal. I'd like a half cross between an FFF sand blasting machine and a dune buggy basher. If I need to slow it down for occasional crawls maybe I'll look at the two speed.

Here's my plans:
-servo
-rear sway bar from DLux (what's the diff between center chassis Mount and rear bumper mount?)
-rear lowers from DLux as well

And then just replace as stuff breaks.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by ride1226

I picked up a bomber the other night in a trade. Haven't had a crawler in years and have mainly been airborne the last few years. The truck came nearly stock but with a 3700kv brushless system that I simply plan to run until it dies, a stripped stock plastic servo horn, strc front lower links, and a 19t pinion installed. I'm not looking to crawl. I want the rig to have solid speeds and be more of a solid axle basher than a crawler. I used to comp crawl with a Losi and some friends and when the group all moved away I got instantly bored on my own. I have a need for speed!

My plan this far is to skip the new servo horn and just get a new servo all together. Looking at a few decent budget servos that I have bought before to fit the bill. My question is, other than that what should I look to in order to make this fit my goal. I'd like a half cross between an FFF sand blasting machine and a dune buggy basher. If I need to slow it down for occasional crawls maybe I'll look at the two speed.

Here's my plans:
-servo
-rear sway bar from DLux (what's the diff between center chassis Mount and rear bumper mount?)
-rear lowers from DLux as well

And then just replace as stuff breaks.

Bomber in a Trade? Wonder why.

My .02 from what you listed and more go fast.

** Keep in mind you will soon overdrive the chassis after 20-25mph. It's just not designed for more speed than that.

Phase 1
Servo w/300-350oz-in and .12 Speed or less.
Steering link upgrade

Phase 2
Lower Link/Trailing Arms
Front Swaybar

Phase 3
Bash till you break then replace

[Stuck]

Theses probably run along the lines of replace when you break but with brushless power the stock lockers will break and spin in the housings and the R&P won't last long either. Another place your gonna want to look at is your trans. Gonna want some steel gears and some cro mo outputs. Drive shafts will need some updating as well.

[allanon1965]

The bomber trans comes with steel gears stock....

[Stuck]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

The bomber trans comes with steel gears stock....

You are correct. Thinking of wrong rig

[ride1226]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

Bomber in a Trade? Wonder why.

My .02 from what you listed and more go fast.

** Keep in mind you will soon overdrive the chassis after 20-25mph. It's just not designed for more speed than that.

Something wrong with getting a bomber in a trade?

As for the speed 20-25 should be plenty to bash around with and have quite some fun. Not looking to make speed runs up and down a parking lot.

Front sway bar? Is that more important than the rear sway?

As for the steering links I can add that to my order from DLux. The stock plastic is quite flimsy which I noticed last night while going over the truck. Wasn't too sure if that would help with durability as a basher or just destroy the steering feel altogether.

[Koldham]

all i did was bulletproof the steering. but im a crawler

[SCREAMER]

I think the only difference in the Dlux rear sway bar is the length of the rod between the arms. It needs to be longer for the mid chassis mount and shorter for rear bumper mount.

[ride1226]

Thanks screamer. So should i just get the longer one and be good to go? Also, is just rear needed or both front and rear for my goals? Thanks again!

[F1GHTF1R3W1THF1Re.]

Originally Posted by ride1226

Thanks screamer. So should i just get the longer one and be good to go? Also, is just rear needed or both front and rear for my goals? Thanks again!

I replaced my dlux rod with a piece of stainless tig wire, same size. (.0625")

[generalee7]

Originally Posted by ride1226

Thanks screamer. So should i just get the longer one and be good to go? Also, is just rear needed or both front and rear for my goals? Thanks again!

I'd just do the rear. Front and rear will handle on road good but you're building an offroad machine

[CamaroTom]

Order some FI spools. I just installed one in my Yeti and all slop is gone.

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by ride1226

Thanks screamer. So should i just get the longer one and be good to go? Also, is just rear needed or both front and rear for my goals? Thanks again!

I ordered the one for mid chassis mounting and tried it on the front and rear (bumper) mount and it fits both nicely with maybe a little extra sticking out on both sides of the arm when mounted on the rear side. Not very noticeable and doesn't affect performance or get hung up anywhere. Better to have it too long so you can try both positions IMO. Id also just do rear unless you need your rig to stay really flat for U4 type stuff.

[ride1226]

Thanks again everyone. Seems like I have a nice idea of what I want and need

What are the FI spools? The stock axles are locked but the FI ones are better?

[generalee7]

Originally Posted by ride1226

Thanks again everyone. Seems like I have a nice idea of what I want and need

What are the FI spools? The stock axles are locked but the FI ones are better?

Aftermarket lockers are tighter and stronger.

[maslin]

It's going to be fast with 3700kv and a 19t pinion, I would even consider open diffs and a servo saver. Stuff breaks over 20, even quality servos will struggle. Relieving some stress will help with bashing quite a bit.

3700kvx11.1v=41070rpm
64/19=3.37
41070/3.37=12187 trans input
/1.94=6282 trans output
/2.92=2151 axle speed
x16.96in=36480in per minute
=34.5 mph

You may want a smaller pinion.

[luckster]

I installed the SSD 2 speed. I am pleased with it. And the steering links from STRC have held up well. I am going for the crawler side of things so I haven't gone brushless but I really like the way it runs. All in all I would say you made a hell of a trade. Welcome back to Rc on the ground.

[ride1226]

Thanks! I traded a associated rival monster truck that I have had on a shelf for almost a year. Been too busy flying.

Just got my first run in. I don't think it does 35mph but more around 20-25 on 2s lipo. The speed is great and it still climbs a curb slowly and my front stairs without issue. Maybe I'll drop to 18 but that's about it. I did manage to jump and hit a railroad tie on landing which pulled on of the threads from the rod ends on the strc front lower links. I'm not sure if there is a better replacement or I have to buy more strc.

Also need to lower the CoG big time and widen it out a bit if possible, and the rear sway should help immensely. I like it though!

[maslin]

Volt down gear up is hard on electronics. Think about going to 3s and dropping the pinion to a 14 or 15. Your motor will thank you.

[USP45]

Originally Posted by maslin

Volt down gear up is hard on electronics. Think about going to 3s and dropping the pinion to a 14 or 15. Your motor will thank you.

Besides being hard on motor/esc it is also a lipo killer big time. In most sct classes you are mandated to run a 2s lipo and it is really hard on them. You have to pull a lot of amps to get the performance and the batteries tend not to last real long when you are consistently putting that kind of a strain on them. Racing conditions of course so pretty hard, but still.