SCX10 4-link question

[jammindriver]

The Honcho "kit" comes with alum links...is stock a 3-link or 4-link setup?? If only 3-link, can I get the 4-link truss only? Or do I have to buy the alum upgrade kit for it even though the rig kit is already including the aluminum links??

[HahnsB2]

Stock is 3-link "wishbone". The 4-link truss does not come with the aliminum link kit. You should have it in your Honcho kit, my RTR came with 2 4-link trusses.

[jammindriver]

Originally Posted by HahnsB2

Stock is 3-link "wishbone". The 4-link truss does not come with the aliminum link kit. You should have it in your Honcho kit, my RTR came with 2 4-link trusses.

Oh, so all I need after I get the rig kit is the extra alum pipe and ends?

[greenjk]

I don't know if the kit has changed but mine didn't come with the 4 link truss. While where on the subject can someone tell me the advantage of a 4 link over a 3 link thanks.

[jammindriver]

Originally Posted by greenjk

I don't know if the kit has changed but mine didn't come with the 4 link truss. While where on the subject can someone tell me the advantage of a 4 link over a 3 link thanks.

I think the 4-link keeps the rig from tilting to the side when the motor torques. I think there is some additional stability also.

[johnnyh66]

My Dingo came with 2 4 link trus'
jammindriver, you are correct. It reduces torque twist and, IMHO, has more useable articulation... it's not so sloppy.
If
You want to 4 link and don't have the parts, upgrade now.
R2J, DMG, Dinky and a few other's make much stronger and more adjustable versions. Check out the venders section. The DMG has a new 4 and 3 link with built in panhard bar anchor points... very nice.

[Spiike]

you can just drill holes in your servo plate and make your own upper links for the front, and find another servo plate at your lhs or one of those 4 link plates for the rear and make your own rear links. much cheaper if you like to tinker

[jammindriver]

Originally Posted by Spiike

you can just drill holes in your servo plate and make your own upper links for the front, and find another servo plate at your lhs or one of those 4 link plates for the rear and make your own rear links. much cheaper if you like to tinker

I do like to tinker, but I'm also a little type-a when it comes to uniformity...if one pipe is grey, well by gosh, all the pipes have to be grey. Maybe I can make my own using Axial pipes though. Will def consider.

[jammindriver]

Originally Posted by johnnyh66

My Dingo came with 2 4 link trus'
jammindriver, you are correct. It reduces torque twist and, IMHO, has more useable articulation... it's not so sloppy.
If
You want to 4 link and don't have the parts, upgrade now.
R2J, DMG, Dinky and a few other's make much stronger and more adjustable versions. Check out the venders section. The DMG has a new 4 and 3 link with built in panhard bar anchor points... very nice.

Since I am a total noob, could you explain "panhard bar" or give me a pic?

[ofna]

I just recently built my honcho kit and it only came with the 3 link!!

[ofna]

I did purchase the DMG 3 link truss with pan hard but i'm not sure if I want to install it because I also purchased the Hand Bros CMS

[WIDELOAD]

Jammin: if you get/have the KIT of the honcho. You will have to buy a 4link set up from one of the manufactures listed above. The plastic axial truss as a option part (dont have the part# on had for you sorry).

The RTR honcho/dingo comes with the 4link truss as an optional part included in the box.



As for a Panhard, it is to provide lateral support to the axle. Have a read of this if you're keen: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard_rod

[jammindriver]

Originally Posted by WIDELOAD

Jammin: if you get/have the KIT of the honcho. You will have to buy a 4link set up from one of the manufactures listed above. The plastic axial truss as a option part (dont have the part# on had for you sorry).

The RTR honcho/dingo comes with the 4link truss as an optional part included in the box.



As for a Panhard, it is to provide lateral support to the axle. Have a read of this if you're keen: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard_rod

Thanks much!

[Spiike]

Originally Posted by jammindriver

I do like to tinker, but I'm also a little type-a when it comes to uniformity...if one pipe is grey, well by gosh, all the pipes have to be grey. Maybe I can make my own using Axial pipes though. Will def consider.

do the whole thing! uppers lowers, back and rear, and steering! I'm awaiting a 4 link plate for the rear to 4 link it as well

[jammindriver]

Originally Posted by Spiike

do the whole thing! uppers lowers, back and rear, and steering! I'm awaiting a 4 link plate for the rear to 4 link it as well

So, to do the front, do I just use a 4link truss, or do I need to so something different for the front??

[Spiike]

4 link plate is like a servo plate without the servo, and drill holes in the servo plate

here, like this, instead of hijacking your thread, i have many photos of my 4 link front using traxxis rod ends and threaded rod with aluminum tubing

Spiike's SCX10 Jeep 4 Door (Caution Picture Heavy)

[jammindriver]

Originally Posted by Spiike

4 link plate is like a servo plate without the servo, and drill holes in the servo plate

here, like this, instead of hijacking your thread, i have many photos of my 4 link front using traxxis rod ends and threaded rod with aluminum tubing

Spiike's SCX10 Jeep 4 Door (Caution Picture Heavy)

Very nice. I like what you've done. How does the velcro hold up? Does the body every pop off?

[Coops]

I recall reading that some people used the same length tubes top and bottom with the stock axial 4 link piece which I think is bs. The aluminum links for my son's dingo are 91mm on the bottom and 60+20mm on the top. The plastic spare links that came in the box were too long (longer than the stock bottom links).

It was a little tricky to find this info when I was looking for a way to use the parts that came in the box.

4-linking the truck was worth it. My son can't turn too sharp and roll the truck like it would with the 3-link set-up. It's much more stable.

As for using the servo plate in the front..... In my AX10 I counter sunk the holes and used the tapered screws and mounted the links on the bottom. (I just looked at the link above, very similar but I used different screws) The scale scale in the roof rack is pretty cool

[jammindriver]

I dont have my kit yet, so maybe it will becomemore evident to me then, but can someone explain why I can't simply use a truss to 4-link the front end a well?

[HahnsB2]

Originally Posted by Coops

I recall reading that some people used the same length tubes top and bottom with the stock axial 4 link piece which I think is bs.

I'm using equal length links... It points the pinion up, but that's what I wanted