My first scx10. A dingo kit...

[Collective itch]

[sixtyspokes]

Red looks pretty good on that Dingo! What paint is that?

[drywallguy]

Yes you did a nice paint job. The red works when you do it right.
What wheel nuts are those? They are working fine!

[Collective itch]

Originally Posted by sixtyspokes

Red looks pretty good on that Dingo! What paint is that?

Thanks, it's tamiya flat red. Great colour

[Collective itch]

Originally Posted by drywallguy

Yes you did a nice paint job. The red works when you do it right.
What wheel nuts are those? They are working fine!

The wheels nuts are the stock lock nuts, with the plastic covers that screw on. It's a nice touch isn't it?

[sixtyspokes]

I kinda like the no-windshield look on this. Looks good. Any mods planned? Battery placement, weighted wheels, etc.?

[Collective itch]

Hi sixty , already weighted the wheels with some lead sheet wrapped around wheels when building. Found it quite hard to fit the lead in the middle groove on the the stock wheels, and get the tyres seated properly. Only went with 2.5 ounces on front, and 1 ounce on rears. Did this for duration, and to try and keep component wear down. I have my ridgcrest with a lot more weight, and it munches through battery power! Yeah I want to move the battery up front, unsure of the best option, may try the suggestion in the manual to start.

[Collective itch]

I seem to be having my link pop off at rear. What's the best solution to this. Also what the best solution to put the battery up front?

[sixtyspokes]

I've ran my battery in the rear at first build and couldn't climb very well. Then I mounted the tray in the front above the servo and radio box. That was so much better. Now I made a homemade aluminum mount (Jevne Racing plate US$50), did a host of waterproofing and have yet to go out to try it. This will place my battery behind the front shock towers and before the motor/trans. Work has been too busy lately and no time to play. Try all three! It was a great learning experience to try various setups.
As for your rear link problem, is the alu link separating from the plastic rod end? If so, perhaps using a new rod end (in the kit) may work. Pics?

[Collective itch]

Originally Posted by sixtyspokes

I've ran my battery in the rear at first build and couldn't climb very well. Then I mounted the tray in the front above the servo and radio box. That was so much better. Now I made a homemade aluminum mount (Jevne Racing plate US$50), did a host of waterproofing and have yet to go out to try it. This will place my battery behind the front shock towers and before the motor/trans. Work has been too busy lately and no time to play. Try all three! It was a great learning experience to try various setups.
As for your rear link problem, is the alu link separating from the plastic rod end? If so, perhaps using a new rod end (in the kit) may work. Pics?

yeh im gonna have a play, and see what works, just moved it to above the radio box as per the manual, see how i get on with that. no the y shaped plastic piece that connects to the axle was coming detached from the axle. the screw and ball was just pulling through the mounting hole in the axle case. i fixed twice on the trail, and have now made a 4 link setup using some left overs in the kit. its late here in uk, so will try to post piks tomorrow. had a blast with it today though, great kit apart form that!

[Collective itch]

not mine, but i did what conklinator did in this thread...
4 link scx10

[BigSki]

I 4 linked my rear axle when I built the Dingo kit last week, it worked really well at the GTG last Sunday. I found that the wheel base didn't line up exactly with the wheel openings on the body, I had to shorten my rear links by about 8mm.

[Collective itch]

hi bigski, what parts did you use when you 4 linked? i only used the parts i had laying around from the kit

[sixtyspokes]

+1, go 4-link, and use metal ball ends (like Traxxas) with some all-thread rod to customize length. I stuck with stock alu lowers but made the front and rear upper links, just so I could get the pinion angle just right for clearance. The plastic balls just don't last. There should be a 4-link truss in the box, I hope.
By the way, did you get the headlight buckets with your kit?

[Collective itch]

I did the 4 link mod as conklinator did in the thread I posted above, using only extras that came in the kit, as I don't have any Ali tubing or threaded rod lying around. Is there any drawback to having my axle leaned back due to using the plastic upper links from the extra part tree?
Yeh my light buckets came in the bag with the antenna pipe and axial markers. In my haste to paint the shell, I forgot to mount them!

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by Collective itch

hi bigski, what parts did you use when you 4 linked? i only used the parts i had laying around from the kit

My kit came with a pair of the 4 link trusses, I cut down the stock lower links to center the rear axle in the wheel well better and I found some old links in my spare parts box that I used for the uppers.

[AvriX]

Sweet ride!

[Collective itch]

Originally Posted by BigSki

My kit came with a pair of the 4 link trusses, I cut down the stock lower links to center the rear axle in the wheel well better and I found some old links in my spare parts box that I used for the uppers.

im still quite new to this tbh, and dont know what i should be aiming for when i cut links down, or what links i need to get for the uppers
whats the draw backs of running it like this, using the extra parts from the kit that i used? as you can see the axle is now tilted back...

Originally Posted by AvriX

Sweet ride!

thanks

[Scor1pion]

Originally Posted by BigSki

I 4 linked my rear axle when I built the Dingo kit last week, it worked really well at the GTG last Sunday. I found that the wheel base didn't line up exactly with the wheel openings on the body, I had to shorten my rear links by about 8mm.

I found the same issue with mine. I bought the axial aluminum link kit back when I got my RTR Dingo. I found the lowers were to long also. Wheels weren't centered and rear drive shaft to the axle connection was at a bad angle. Found out to late, actually ruined my junfac drive shaft. Was hitting everything and it just kept falling apart after a while. I only shortened mine by 5mm though.

[Collective itch]

if anything im finding the lowers are too short?
confused..anyway im just making some home made upper links, and will leave the lower lengths stock length..
piks in about 10 mins and feedback welcome....