Jk kit build question

[509hooligan]

I got my kit built and have just been jamming it around the yard a little and noticed a loss of flex in the front so I took the body off to look and I noticed the servo mount hits the chassis and the servo hits the crossmember... Anyone else have this issue? And any suggestions?

[fj40jay]

I had / have this issue also. I got one of my trucks used with some Tamiya shocks and it hit bad. I ordered a set of 93 XD Zeros, that helped some. I also took a dremel and removed some of the cross member. It still hits some so I run only the 2 bottom screws on the servo mount, the only time it comes in contact is a a full off camber flex. I do not think there is any thing else to do other than chassis mount the servo. To me that seems to create a whole new set of problems. I am ok with it axle mounted, and I have it as good as it will get on this truck. all 3 of my scx,s suffer from some sort of servo, frame or draglink issues.

[raceeng18]

No problems here. However, everything is changed up front as you can see. Under full flex, when I push down on the servo, the servo is not hitting anything. Maybe my servo is smaller than the one you are running. Blue Monkey 4 link up front with the BM steering arm and drag link. My chassis does hit the upper links under full flex but the shocks have bottomed out by then. If you haven't done it, you may want to remove the bump stops on the shock shaft. This will improve your flex but won't stop the servo from hitting.

[KMW]

My son has had some issues on his JK, all stock. One time he had the wheels turned all the way left and the LF wheel fully stuffed up. Then the wheel flexed back down and he couldn't turn back right. The screw head on the end of the servo horn got caught on the crossmember and was hooked.

I have also noticed on all of our SCX10s that the screw head attaching the steering link to the tie rod hooks the frame and prevents steering if the suspension is compressed. If your wheels are straight this screw lines up directly under the frame rail so there is barely any suspension movement allowed. So if you happen to jump it with the wheels straight, the frame is going to smash down on the tie rod. I think the frame arch for the axle should have extended a little more forward to give some more clearance.

[raceeng18]

Originally Posted by KMW

My son has had some issues on his JK, all stock. One time he had the wheels turned all the way left and the LF wheel fully stuffed up. Then the wheel flexed back down and he couldn't turn back right. The screw head on the end of the servo horn got caught on the crossmember and was hooked.

I have also noticed on all of our SCX10s that the screw head attaching the steering link to the tie rod hooks the frame and prevents steering if the suspension is compressed. If your wheels are straight this screw lines up directly under the frame rail so there is barely any suspension movement allowed. So if you happen to jump it with the wheels straight, the frame is going to smash down on the tie rod. I think the frame arch for the axle should have extended a little more forward to give some more clearance.

Are you talking about the screw head getting hung up on the cross member? I've looked at both of my SCX10's and there aren't any steering related screws located under the frame rails. They are well outside of the frame. I did take a little off of the cross member to allow the servo horn to pass freely. I'm not understanding maybe. The front wheel getting hung up in a full left or right turn could be from the steering over powering/locking either the dog bone axle or the cvd's if you are running them. Try backing off on the transmitter end points a little. I've had to do that because I had more steering than the joint allowed. Wish I could see the front of your truck.


I went back and looked at some of your posts. On your Honcho, I now see the screw you are speaking of. I also see your links and steering arm that you've made. As a suggestion, you might want to eliminate the area of your tie rod (suspect screw head) where your drag link attaches to the tie rod and attach a drag link directly to your knuckle.That shouldn't be difficult for you after making your links. I think it would solve that problem. You could also make a new servo mount for the front that would allow you to four link the front. My three link kept pulling out at the single part of the Y so I four linked the front also. I don't have the skills to make this stuff as you do so I purchased my front four link mount. I like your Honcho by the way.

[Rorro]

Originally Posted by KMW

My son has had some issues on his JK, all stock. One time he had the wheels turned all the way left and the LF wheel fully stuffed up. Then the wheel flexed back down and he couldn't turn back right. The screw head on the end of the servo horn got caught on the crossmember and was hooked.

I have also noticed on all of our SCX10s that the screw head attaching the steering link to the tie rod hooks the frame and prevents steering if the suspension is compressed. If your wheels are straight this screw lines up directly under the frame rail so there is barely any suspension movement allowed. So if you happen to jump it with the wheels straight, the frame is going to smash down on the tie rod. I think the frame arch for the axle should have extended a little more forward to give some more clearance.

happened to me. I think is due to the wear of the 3 link upper ball joint. when that happens there is a little back and forth play in the upper part enough to catch the horn screw on the crossmember.

[raceeng18]

Originally Posted by Rorro

happened to me. I think is due to the wear of the 3 link upper ball joint. when that happens there is a little back and forth play in the upper part enough to catch the horn screw on the crossmember.

I agree Rorro. I never did like the engineering on this piece.