Lenghthining Front?

[DaveFL]

Anyone used rear axial links upper and lower 4 link on the front for a true 4 link system? Or is there a problem with articulation interference? Or anyone used the 108's and then exteded the platic Y link (really dont like this idea) to push the fron tires forward?

Im trying to do two things.

One, Im amy waniting to get more flex, and Im dumping the PL scalers. But at the same time Im using a Stinger winch mount bumper which gives me aple clearance to move the front forward. Right now with my limited articulation with the axial tires, if I am at full comprssion and with front wheel turned I get serious rubbing.

I wouldnt mind somehow extending the width of the axles, I thought about looking if the wraith 60 axles would work on JK But I havent looked into that build yet.

Any idea?

Thanks

[twistedjeep]

I used VP Wraith links on mine to move axle forward

[DaveFL]

What links did you use? And what was the length?

Wraith links are all set up for 4 link? did you just get 2 straing links and What did you do about the upper a Arm?

Or was the set up with the Vanquish Currie axle?

Pics? Write up?

Thanks

Dave

[TacoCrawler]

be sure to lengthen the upper links enough
to allow the axle housing slight forward rotation.
This will help with drive shaft alignment and reduce premature wear.

Moving the axle housing forward may also cause some servo
interference with the frames front cross member.

I had to shave off part of the servo mounts
so that the servo would sit farther rearward.
* Some servos are larger then others.

As far as axle width...
Look up "Beef Tubes"
I believe those are offered in two options...
stock width and extended width.

* I don't know the extended width measurement.
tho' I'm sure someone here does.

[Erin]

The short xr mod will add about a 1/2" of width if I recall correctly. Full width is around a inch gain.

Stretching with the servo on axle will get into frame cross member, stretching with cms can cause problems with locating the track bar mount on frame depending how far out you want to push axle.
You can also get to far ahead of the servo horn as well, depending which way the servo is mounted on frame.

[DaveFL]

Im looking at a total of maybe 15-20mm SO not that much stretch.

I run my own CMS system, I run it without a panhard, everyone talks abut bump steer, but I have not had any hard experience with it.

Blue Monkey Makes a System I saw with links, CMS and Panhard, the front links for stock axle servo are not what I am looking for but it does look like rhe make a low mount 4 link brace that mount low on the axle. I was thinking using rear arms front and rear, Not sure how much length but would like to find out, since they use Traxxas rod ends those are longer then the axial.

I check out some options, even if the blue monkey 4 link low center i can thread my own solid rods to fit traxxas or revo, just done have a die too get them down to Axial size.

[Erin]

Yea, I just make all my own links from ss 3/16" rod, 10/24 or 32 thread. easier that way.

[craddock35]

Most of the guys I run with have 4 link front and rear but as far as stretching the front out you have to watch for hitting stuff like already mentioned.

Why would you want more flex? I always hear people say oh check out hoe much flex I have I can flip the front tires on the side and the rears still be on the ground. I just want to call them idiots and always walk off and leave them in the rocks. To much flex is a bad thing and the scx10 has plenty stock if anything remove the bump stops on the shocks to get a little more.

[DaveFL]

Then I have something WRONG somewhere, I have flex but nowhere near what I would like to see, on any crawler scale or other wise. I would put my flex in catagory as almost a "stock" Jeep. Running PL Scalers, but my weight drops them down half the shaft even with the stifest springs, I have no added that much weight to the stock Axial I made sure of this as I built it up, I might be 2-3 oz heavier than a Stock JK RTR my best guess.

As it is now if I run a simulated RTI I wouls score dismally. I am not looking for some ungodly flex, but more than I have for sure.

Also my biggest problem now is under full compression on flex My front tires are being limited by the fender flares. I have moved the body way up, but it look horried how far I have moved it up, and even then I am still hitting the flares. I am only hitting the flares in the back, I have clearance on top so pushing the axle forward would eliminate this problem.

I would still like beter flex in the shocks. I am going to look into new shocks. I am also disgusted on side handle of the JK WAY to easy to flop. I am not top heavy I dont run a roof rack or anything. Id love to widen in the stance Just have to figure out how to widen it. Maybe Vanquish beadlocks with a very positive offset? Full width would be great fun, I was trying to find out if the AR 60 axle wor the wraith would work on the SCX10. but I am sure someone would have said something about this if it did or have tried it.

I have a few things in the works, going to have to redesign how I bult the rig in the first place, this is off course still standard width, but we shall see how it works out.

I would love to know if anyone has ran a wraith axle on a SCX10 JK. and if the did what links did they use or set up.

[Meatwad]

If you have near a tire height of articulation, you're good to go. Any more than that will get you into a situation you most likely won't be able to get out of.

Most who have done the ar60's to scx chassis usually make their own links to suit the body being used. 8-32 all thread, stainless tube and revo/jato rod ends... done.

[Erin]

Just switching to the stock scx shocks from the prolines will gain you about a 1/4" of shock travel. And as was just said, about a tire height or so is perfect flex. Say 4.5-5" max.

The scx shocks also have a better spring selection to tune to weight.

[DaveFL]

I was thinking about going to the Stock Axle shocks a few other things on my mind as well.

But as in getting flex = to 1 tire height, no where near that before I start losing rear tire traction I get maybe 2/3rds before I start loosing it on the back end.

Then there is the situation with rubbing on the body? Am I the only one that is experiencing this is such a horrid degree? at max flex if I set the body at correct ride height on body post (body bottom just touch the side sliders) My tires will catch and dig into the body. But again the weight of my body on the PL scalers is not being supported fully, The springs are actually even a stiffer spring but at rest I sit 1/4+ compressed not quite 1/2 but the weight is compressing the shocks. Not extra weight, runnin 30 weight oil in shocks.

Im at a loss, Im going to wokr on a few things and make my decisions from there but I have to figure something out.

[craddock35]

Pics please. Sounds like something is wrong. I have proline shocks on one scx10 and aluminum stock axial shocks on my jk and they both flex about the same and neither flip at nothing. I do have added weight though with aluminum wheels beef tubes Grip Fab spools metal bumpers and sliders plus all my electronics and battery has been moved around to what has worked the best for me in the past.

[DaveFL]

I will get some pics up when I can as of now my Digital camera took a drop in the ocean and I havent replaced it. My phone camera sucks so bad its worthless.

Got somethings I am going to try, worked arounnd with it a buit last night PO's cause the stubby STinger bumbper took a bump on a simple side hill roll over and bent it.

Im really starting to think a lot of side hill problems are based on weight to the ground. Need heavier axles/tires something. I do think width would make a difference though.

[Perkolator]

My front axle is pushed forward on my Honcho. I think I made 1/4"-3/8" longer front links. Front is pushed forward enough for 1.9 baja claws to not rub my honcho cab thats cut up to the doorjamb. Front approach angle is awesome It was tricky getting everything up front to clear, but somehow it does now. Rest of front is axial 4link truss, homebrew CMS, clocked c-hubs, high steer and wraith shocks

[craddock35]

Putting better foams like crawler innovations foams help on the sidehill since they help keep the tire from rolling under. A little weight down low in the axles help also. Beef tube add I think about 2oz per axle and then add a locker or spool that is good and solid like the Grip-fab or the new locked up rc one should add about another oz per axle. I personally try to keep weight out of my wheels to keep from adding rotating mass which puts more strain on everything.

[DaveFL]

I have new tires Pitbulls with the foams havent put them on a set of rims yet. Debating on what beedlock I want Vanquish or DC's from RC4wd or CRKC.

Might look at some other foams as well.

I am running closked and high steer alum chubs and knuckes. Also Alum on the back.

I was tinkering around with the Jk last night looking to over trying to figure out what I could do and the weight.

AS it is, and I know everyone hates it I do run my battery in the back. But I have dozens of Venom and duratrax 2s Lippos and I need to drop the dime on a new few batteries to set up a front position. But I am also running a Unique Steel Gear High Speed High Torque Savox Servo, its a heavy beast. This is set up on my home brew CMS all electronics sit behind it in a traxxas waterproof housing (Tenkin FXR etc).

The odd side is i am at around 60/40 front to back weight and 50/50 side to side. The front weight due to the Savox, metal stinger and Metal CMS plate I built and Winch.

I am running the motor flipped but did not Mirror it.

I am over geared for sure, I have a tenkin 55T Pro but after some talk on the board everyone was telling me that it would be SLOW. I have Axial Hardened gears f/r inf the diffs but Then I bought Robinson racing gears and a 35T Pro Hand wound and I have to set a limiter on throttle its not as fast as my EXO but it's way faster than a walk maybe a Very brisk walk to keep up with it.

I think right now first thing is going back to Axial Shocks and dosome tuning on those. Second is going to be 4 link all the way around. Need to work on this set up as it will make me change my CMS.

I am also trying to figure out if I want a HR swaybar kit or Axial Wraith Sway Bar kit. to put in the rear for some stability.

SO its coming apart again. Just like to get it running good and strong so I can finish my Exo as well after the carnage I took at a SC event 2 months ago,

JK first
Exo 2nd
Then Im onto the Posion Spider Rock Racer (if they release it in kit form anytime soon) Its a tough decission of that over the Vaterra Twin Hammers

[DaveFL]

Originally Posted by craddock35

Putting better foams like crawler innovations foams help on the sidehill since they help keep the tire from rolling under. A little weight down low in the axles help also. Beef tube add I think about 2oz per axle and then add a locker or spool that is good and solid like the Grip-fab or the new locked up rc one should add about another oz per axle. I personally try to keep weight out of my wheels to keep from adding rotating mass which puts more strain on everything.

On the locker on the axle? I bought this as a kit and it came with the HD Metal Axial Lockers. Are they a weak point? I havent seen a problem with them as of yet but havent head anyone suggest a new locker.

Thanks

Dave

[Erin]

A full steel locker, meaning no plastic housing.

When you switch to the scx shocks, dont be surprised how heavy of an oil it might take. I used to run 60/80 fr/rr.
If you have machined pistons, you might go lower.

[craddock35]

Originally Posted by DaveFL

On the locker on the axle? I bought this as a kit and it came with the HD Metal Axial Lockers. Are they a weak point? I havent seen a problem with them as of yet but havent head anyone suggest a new locker.

Thanks

Dave

Yes lockers in the axles. The metal part is usually what breaks not the plastic it goes in. Die-Laughing makes the Grip-Fab lockers and spools and I have had 0 issues with them like I have others.

You said you are not getting enough flex but you are wanting to put sway bars on it? That will kill some flex.