Inside 6sharky9's SCX10 Honcho RTR

[6sharky9]

If you've read my STOCK SCX10 performance thread Stock SCX10 Performance Tech. then you've seen what ive done to my truck..But heres a more indepth look at how ive taken it farther with some bolt ons


Holmes Hobbies BR-XL ESC
Custom Trinity 27T mod motor. Trinity EA motorsports 27T armature inside trinity experimental mod can...6 degrees advanced timing..Silver brushes, purple springs.
GensAce 4800Mah (25c) 2s saddle pack lipo. (Deans battery connectors)
Hitec HS985MG Servo (177oz./in. Torque at 6.0V)
Specktrum DX 3.0 Radio and SR-3001 receiver


Some added Upgrades:

Level3 Rear aluminum 4 link truss
Level3 Front aluminum 4 link truss
3Racing Motor heat sink
STRC aluminum heat sink Motor plate
Robinson 16T lightweight motor pinion
Kimbrough 87T 48 pitch spur gear
HR Aluminum servo mounts
Axial 8 hole 1.9 beadlock wheels
GPM lower steering link
Integy Front Universal Axles
Axial HD 43/13 rear gear set (Under Drive)
Axial HD 38/13 front gear set (stock ratio)
Locked Up F.I. spools front and rear
Losi comp 4 inch shocks..(limited to 93mm/Losi White 1.8lb springs/30wt oil/custom piston work)
Home made upper and lower suspension links and upper drag link.
Converted to 4 link ( front )
Aluminum front bumper mount
Home Made upper shock mount extensions.
Home Made Anti squat Rear upper link brackets.
Fully balanced front to rear left to right.



(Selection of tires so far)

Axial 1.9 Ripsaws (came with rtr Honcho)
Axial 1.9 Trepadors (came with rtr Rubicon)
Proline 1.9 Flat-Irons (got in trade)

(Whats in the future for upgrades???)

Beef Tubes (front and rear)
Locked up OT2 rear axles
Locked up Slipper eliminator kit
Pitbull Rockbeast 1.9 tires
Crawler Innovations Tire Foams
Aluminum rear bumper mount
Proline F250 Body (truggy)
Adding scale items

[6sharky9]

Just sold my Proboat blackjack 26ss so more goodies on the way off the list.

[6sharky9]

So I played around a little with Microsoft paint and think this may end up what I may do in the looks department with the RTR Toyota body for fun.

[6sharky9]

Ordered a level3 truss for the front like I have on the rear to complete the matched pair.

[6sharky9]

So im looking over the front stock 4 link truss and how close it is to the servo plate...A problem im thinking I will have is the Level3 truss where the links mount are a bit taller and im thinking I may have installation issues without making some changes...Guess ill be figuring something out when I get the truss..I maybe should've gotten the wide angle truss for the front and actually it wouldn't be a bad idea to get those for the rear as well...They mount the links lower and wider apart..Im thinking lower CG and more capable geometry.

[TacoCrawler]

My son is utilizing the level3 (wide, low profile) four link mount at the rear.
Mostly 'cause... it only requires use of the two holes at the axle's center chunk for mounting.
an added benefit... is more overhead clearance then many other link mounts being offered.
^ including the level3, HR and Axial standard 4 link mount designs (prolly more).

The son is rolling a Mojave Hilux body (full bed)
So the rear upper shock hoops are removed...
and his Rr. shocks are positioned like so / \
^ ( homebrew gearhead design )

The wider, lower profile level3 link mount...
seems to help reduce chassis roll somewhat.
Tho' improved... it's still not good enough for me. ( I'm never satisfied )
but the son thinks it's better then what it was.
It's his junk... so it's his call.

^ I'm trying to get him interested in doing a cantilever set up instead
but he's kinda hard headed and/or lazy like many young adults are

I think that when utilizing the wider level3 4 link mount
the wider spacing of the links at the axle side...
helps with reducing chassis roll.

But I have not tried the level3 4 link mount on my junk...
So I cannot say for fact what effect might occur.

So if you go that route... do tell us what you find out !?

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

My son is utilizing the level3 (wide, low profile) four link mount at the rear.
Mostly 'cause... it only requires use of the two holes at the axle's center chunk for mounting.
an added benefit... is more overhead clearance then many other link mounts being offered.
^ including the level3, HR and Axial standard 4 link mount designs (prolly more).

The son is rolling a Mojave Hilux body (full bed)
So the rear upper shock hoops are removed...
and his Rr. shocks are positioned like so / \
^ ( homebrew gearhead design )

The wider, lower profile level3 link mount...
seems to help reduce chassis roll somewhat.
Tho' improved... it's still not good enough for me. ( I'm never satisfied )
but the son thinks it's better then what it was.
It's his junk... so it's his call.

^ I'm trying to get him interested in doing a cantilever set up instead
but he's kinda hard headed and/or lazy like many young adults are

I think that when utilizing the wider level3 4 link mount
the wider spacing of the links at the axle side...
helps with reducing chassis roll.

But I have not tried the level3 4 link mount on my junk...
So I cannot say for fact what effect might occur.

So do tell us what you find out !?

I just recalled it made the links higher on the rear...I can shim the servo plate up some or grind down some of the top of the truss I guess.. I don't really want to raise the servo though.. i may just go ahead and get the wider/lower versions ..they seem like they would work better in general...Anything to lower the cg is always good.

[6sharky9]

Received the truss today and will see how it may or may not fit soon..lol

[6sharky9]

Well its definitely too tall to fit under the axle mounted servo assembly so its not going to make its way onto the truck...For those buying these trusses make sure you get the low mount versions as the tall ones only work for the rear apparently...Ill just be ordering the low mount versions for the front and the rear...Bummer.

The only way to make it work would be to raise the servo plate about 1 inch and im not wanting to do that to get it to fit.

[donnielovett]

I don't see a reason to run a bumper much less a full width rear bumper on a honcho... Just looks odd..

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by donnielovett

I don't see a reason to run a bumper much less a full width rear bumper on a honcho... Just looks odd..

I feel the same way about a lot of things ive seen but some may do it for a reason or maybe for looks,...whatever it was it was just a choice.

[6sharky9]

Im officially on a list to receive 2 Locked up FI spools once they are back in stock and have some Axial HD 38/13 and 43/13 ring and pinion gears on the way to add to the Honcho.

[6sharky9]

Ive received my Axial HD gears about a week ago but still waiting for the Locked up FI spools that were on backorder to show up so I can install everything...Hopefully this upcoming week I get them.

This is whats left in the plans for the Honcho:

Level3 Low profile trusses for the front and rear.
Locked Up Slipper eliminator kit
Pitbull Rockbeast Tires and foams (1.9)
Aluminum rear bumper mount
Proline F250 Truggy body
Maybe some scale items for looks.

[eunique]

Thanks for the information you have posted...it helped me tweak my Dingo/Defender. I am running level3 CMs on it and initially kept rolling over even on not too steep of a terrain. I did some adjustments, cut off rear cross brace, removed 8 AA battery pack in rear (forLED) lights and made a huge improvement overall. I'm actually very happy pretty impressed with its performance.

On my SCX10 rubicon kit, I am running the Level3 lower alum 4link truss mounts front and rear and am very happy with them. Thank you on both of your threads as it is helping me set up my trucks!

Oh...and I'm planning on biting the bullet on getting 2 sets of the Beef Tubes for both front axles of my 2 SCX10s for better low COG added weight. What do you think?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by eunique

Thanks for the information you have posted...it helped me tweak my Dingo/Defender. I am running level3 CMs on it and initially kept rolling over even on not too steep of a terrain. I did some adjustments, cut off rear cross brace, removed 8 AA battery pack in rear (forLED) lights and made a huge improvement overall. I'm actually very happy pretty impressed with its performance.

On my SCX10 rubicon kit, I am running the Level3 lower alum 4link truss mounts front and rear and am very happy with them. Thank you on both of your threads as it is helping me set up my trucks!

Oh...and I'm planning on biting the bullet on getting 2 sets of the Beef Tubes for both front axles of my 2 SCX10s for better low COG added weight. What do you think?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

I would say beef tubes would more help with the more powerful setups..Not that its a bad thing to get some but its not really
something that would be considered a must have..I guess its based on how you are going to treat your truck..Most who compete usually use them as a piece of mind but its not that stock housings break or don't work under normal or some harder use without them..basicly if you want it and it makes you happy then go for it...It will require some mods to fit them so be ready to do some grinding if you do.


EDIT:

If anything look at it as you'll be adding weight in the best area you can to help with traction and center of gravity should you decide to get them.

[6sharky9]

For those who couldn't see the pics, they seem to be back up.

[TacoCrawler]

^ 'bout damn time

you know I need my fix ?!

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

[6sharky9]

Heres a better one..figure out the angle

[6sharky9]

Downloaded an app on to my phone to get the angle above and it measures out to 54.6 degrees...Im pretty happy with that.

Now to test the vertical range.

[Johnnysplits]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Heres a better one..figure out the angle

Yeah, I can see the clear fishing line you have tied to the rear tire to hold the rig on that angle