High steer angle (bent) steering link ?

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

I'm gonna see if this might fit... (less $) <-- if it works

That looks like steel? BTA steering might work with that on the SCX?

I used Blue Monkey Tie rod, VP straight ti link (forget the length, but not stock) with Axial aluminum chubs and high steer knuckles...works great on my SCX.

Originally Posted by ZippoMan

Blue Monkey for you : Titanium Steering Linkage for SCX10, Blue Monkey RC

That is what I used, but substituted custom length draglink and lessened the bends at the end of the drag link to keep it tighter in close to the axle. I also run toe out for better steering and the shocks rubbing is what limits me.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Natedog

That looks like steel? BTA steering might work with that on the SCX.

no... it's aluminum
might work but I have no knowledge.

I set my toe slightly positive ('bout .5mm)
I often let go of the TX's wheel when traveling straight forward
and don't like the chassis tracking (wandering) left or right.

.5mm improves the straight line tracking ability
and I don't really notice any decrease in L/R steering input nor response.

[lemonhead]

[QUOTE=6sharky9

Look up the traxxas 5347 rod ends..Best traxxas has..8-9 dollars for a set of 12 I think...I use those on all my home made links.
They aren't for little puny 3mm threads though[/QUOTE]

I use them on all my rigs (3mm) and have yet to break or bend one.

seems mr guppy isn't as smart s he thinks he is
you give way to much bad advice, stick to what you know which isn't much

[TacoCrawler]

I use the Traxxas # 1942 rod ends...

kit comes with 16 long and 4 short ends
plus 18 steel hollow pivot balls. was $ 6.99 at my LHS

^ These measure 10mm from shank end to ball center.
and are very close to what the original Axial ends measure.

I think the Traxxas part# 5347 listed above
is for the Revo rod ends.
But don't bet yer life on that.

I do know the Revo ends are much longer
then the original Axial link rod ends.
And would require shorter link rods to keep the
wheel base near what it was originally.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

no... it's aluminum
might work but I have no knowledge.

I set my toe slightly positive ('bout .5mm)
I often let go of the TX's wheel when traveling straight forward
and don't like the chassis tracking (wandering) left or right.

.5mm improves the straight line tracking ability
and I don't really notice any decrease in L/R steering input nor response.

Bummer, that will get bent as it's thin aluminum, I've bent thicker.

WIth my toe out and proper servo/steering centering I get no wandering from SCX while driving high speed straight line...and I get more steering this way.

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

...Look up the traxxas 5347 rod ends..Best traxxas has..8-9 dollars for a set of 12 I think...I use those on all my home made links.
They aren't for little puny 3mm threads though

Those are the good Revo rod ends, work great for me.

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

I use the Traxxas # 1942 rod ends...

kit comes with 16 long and 4 short ends
plus 18 steel hollow pivot balls. was $ 6.99 at my LHS

^ These measure 10mm from shank end to ball center.
and are very close to what the original Axial ends measure.

I think the Traxxas part# 5347 listed above
is for the Revo rod ends.
But don't bet yer life on that.

I do know the Revo ends are much longer
then the original Axial link rod ends.
And would require shorter link rods to keep the
wheel base near what it was originally.

The 1942 p/n is for 3mm threaded rod, the 5347 p/n is Revo and is for 4mm threaded rod end.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Bummer, that will get bent as it's thin aluminum, I've bent thicker.

If it makes any difference to you or anyone...
It's solid core 4mm alloy

But no doubt... it could still get bent.
But the same can be said for any other metal link rod too.
Even titanium has its limits. (but costs a lot more)

Originally Posted by Natedog

The 1942 p/n is for 3mm threaded rod, the 5347 p/n is Revo and is for 4mm threaded rod end.

good of you to point that out...
I knew that... but forgot to mention that.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

If it makes any difference to you or anyone...
It's solid core 4mm alloy

But no doubt... it could still get bent.
But the same can be said for any other metal link rod too.
Even titanium has its limits. (but costs a lot more)



good of you to point that out...
I knew that... but forgot to mention that.

That tie rod might be fine, let us know how it works.

[scottyp]

Originally Posted by ZippoMan

Here is a pic of my steering!! I love it!! VP rules in my opinion!!

Zippoman, what are u using for wheel spacers to get that nice clearance between the knuckle and the wheel?

[slim_chance]

You know the cheaper way would have been getting angled rod ends. Just messing with you. But thats what I did with mine.
I really like the link you went with I might nab me some for my SCX10 and AX10.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by scottyp

Zippoman, what are u using for wheel spacers to get that nice clearance between the knuckle and the wheel?

What wheels and hubs are those? Side pic of your truck?

[ZippoMan]

Sorry for not replying a year ago....LOL. I am using Gear Head 1.9 Trail King EZ Locs. Gear Head RC 1.9 Trail King EZ-Loc Wheels (4)

[TacoCrawler]

It's been a year now ?

welp...
just updating my experience with it.

My RC4WD Gelande2 tie rod link has taken all of the abuse I could throw at it.
Including a few serious tumbles off a 20-30 ft rock.
It did get bent a few times...
but I was able to simply bend it back to it's original form by hand.
It does not bend or flex under normal steering/use...
only when it tumbles or falls off a big rock and lands badly.

I would have thought re-straightening it would have caused weakness/failure
after several attempts of doing that. But that hasn't happened to date.
It still functions good and looks swell doing it.

I purchased a spare/replacement just in case...
But I have never needed to install it. yet anyways.

I like the scale look of the thinner steering link tubes...
the 1/4" or 6mm steering link rods look less then scale IMO

I just wish I could find a thinner servo link rod as well.
but for some reason that has eluded me.

To sum it all up...
I have no regrets in running the Gelande 2 steering link.
'cept maybe paying $ 8.00 for them.

[Natedog]

TacoCrawler,

thanks for update.

My Blue Monkey tie-rod has not bent at all including much abuse...only a slight rock rash on it.