OH no! =o......

[mr lee]

So I was not really happy with the pinion angle of the front axle, it seemed too shallow and was catching on the rocks and if left would result in extreme premature wear! I initially followed Axial's 12,3" aluminium link instructions for the parts I needed to order to make up the aluminium upper links and it seems that once again (had the same problem with the 11,4" links on my Dingo!) they were incorrect. They mention that a 6x60mm post plus a 6x25mm post is required including the neccessary ball connectors. To lift the pinion angle to a more acceptable but not perfect angle it actually requires a 6x30mm post instead of the 6x25mm! I picked this up by comparing the length of the plastic upper links with my aluminium upper links. The Jeep Wrangler kit shows to configure the front as a 3 link in plastic but it can also be 4 linked using the remaining plastic links AX80043(2) and the 4 link truss AX80043(1). To get more details on how to install the upper 4 link with those parts you can follow the instructions found in the new Jeep G6 kit as the front and rear are the same as the front of the Jeep Wrangler!
For those interested in the correct post for the Dingo, I mentioned the correct aluminium poststo 4 link the aluminium upper links in my old dingo thread which would give a decent pinion angle! Think it should be a 6x25mm instead of a 6x20mm...
So here we have the aluminium uppers removed and replaced with the plastic links till such time that I can order some 6x30mm posts.
Only downside now is that I have lost a few mm's of suspesion travel due to the plastic links being so thick as they catch the receiver box bottom :(


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After swapping the links out I noticed that the servo arm is now so close to the cross brace after tilting the complete diff assembly by changing the pinion angle, that it is not possible for any suspesion movement at all. This is possibly why all new Jeep G6 owners are complaining of this and the reason why they sellected such a small post for the aluminium link set!
Anyway it is a quick fix as you can see below. Whipped out the dremmel and took some meat off the brace. I actually took too much off as can be seen in the pics but at least I know for the next time around if I build another kit

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Next....
I was never really keen on a glued tire/wheel setup for a crawler because of the amount of torque and stress exerted on the wheel and tire joint but after seeing how some RTR ripsaws performed recently I thought what the hell. Let me give it a bash!
Anyway I cleaned up the tire and wheel edges to remove any release agent, added 40grams to the front wheels and 20grams to the rear and then glued them up. I have glued up many on-road tires so have some experience but have never tried it to this scale before. They were actually alot easier and turned out better than I had expected.
I really just want to see how they perform compared to the TSL's especially on a rock section of a recent trail run.... make it more of a challenge

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