RTR Trail Honcho turned 1980 Chevy K10 Pre-Runner (my first scaler)

[DowntownScience]

Thanks for all the comments guys. I will be updating the thread in the next few days with shots of the chassis, electrical, and shock setups.

[DowntownScience]

So I attended the Rock Hard Scaler Series Event #6 2013-2014 at Folsom Lake this past weekend. The truck was alright in some sections, but absolutely horrible at keeping the front wheels down during a climb.

The first thing I was asked was if I had weights in my wheels in which I replied "No"! Clearly this needs to be addressed. I'm looking at the Blue Monkey knuckle weights for Axial HC knuckles as opposed to weighting the wheels because I really don't want to have to tear the wheels down to make adjustments and I can run different wheel/tire combos without having to weight each one.

I also noticed that my truck appeared to be sitting much higher than everyone else's. In an attempt to get back to basics I thought it would be a good idea to get back to around stock shock and ride height and learn to drive it that way.

For shocks I used a set of AE Blue Anodized V2 (front) shocks. They measure 3.25" from eye to eye. I then added my Vanquish SCX limiting straps which now fit perfect.



Here is a before and after.

[6sharky9]

Look into adding the weight to the axles themselves...ive been running a lot of weight in all 4 wheels but slowly removing it as I add weight to the axles...You don't need spools but some are pretty hefty compared to stock and add the weight where you would want it..beef tubes also add a good amount of weight down low inside the axles..both items you don't "NEED" but have benefits for other reasons.

Also look into battery placement and some anti squat brackets for the rear to help keep the front down.

Simple easy changes yet huge gains in performance.

[DowntownScience]

To add more unsprung weight to the front I have so far...

1. Replaced the stock front axle locker and gears with the HR solid locker and Axial overdrive gears.



2. Purchased a set of the BPC bead lock rings. They're steel and quite a bit thicker than your standard ring.

(only picture I could find online. Mine are 6 bolt though and painted the same blue as the truck)



They won't fit the cheap overseas Aluminum beadlocks that are in the photos so I had to purchase a set of the platic Axial beadlocks. I also purchased a set of the Axial 1.9 weight rings for the front. Not going to add weights to them yet. Wanted something uniform to make up for the fact that I went from Aluminum to plastic.

While testing the affect of the overdrive gears on torque twist I managed to destroy my stock plastic idler gear! So back to the hobby shop I went and grabbed an RRP steel differential and idler gear. All back together and lubed. It's so quiet compared to the plastic!

I have already noticed a difference in my trucks ability to climb steeper hills without it wanting to fall back, as well as a decrease in my turning radius since the truck is now pulling more from the front like a FF vehicle.

[mccustomize]

this looks killer! we need more updated pictures and I think I am going to order this body for my honcho ASAP!

[T I N Y]

Well....You've got the number one thing down pat...Run and learn..You ran and you figured out what you needed to do to fix what you needed work on.Great job! You worked on all the areas you seen were wrong. A lot of guys would leave the ride height and just add weight.And they would add it to the wheels then have to do it to the other wheels .Good job thinking about the knuckle weights....I hope next time around you show them guys whos there to kick some a$$!

[DowntownScience]

If you are/were following this, my apologies for the delay in getting more pics up.

Here are the wheel's finished up.

Axial 8 - hole beadlock (satin finish)
Pitbull Dos Piezas foams (F&R)
Axial weight rings (front only) - no weights added to rings.
BPC beadlock rings (painted Tamiya Metallic Blue like body)
RC4WD Interco IROK tires



The weight rings fit very snug. There is no play between them and the rim so I'm not anticipating or seeing any wobble other than what I have from the over stuffed tires!

Each weight ring is 1.5 oz. without adding any additional weights. Not sure of the weight of each beadlock ring, but they're hefty!

The front is much heavier now. I could really tell a difference at GSRCC Scale Endurance 11 which is the first comp I ran this tire/wheel combo at.

[DowntownScience]

Got a new bumper! Love this thing already. Very well made. Worth the price. Will definitely be getting one for the front as soon as I have the fundage.

http://rcrockarmor.com/SCX10-Rear-Bu...le-RRA01RB.htm

[SAL45]

Looks good! I like how you trimmed the dingo fenders! Nice Job

[1dmaxpwr]

Nice build, I love how its progressing. I built an '86 Blazer 1:1 strictly off-road rig about 14 years ago and have been thinking about doing something similar with my SCX10 but just haven't started. Seeing how great your rig is coming out is very inspirational, makes me want to move forward with my own project.
Anyway, great job, the truck looks awesome.

[DowntownScience]

I've gone brushless!

I had a perfectly good HobbyWing XERUN 90A sensored brushless combo sitting in an Associated SC10 that I wasn't really using anymore. The motor that came with it was a 13T. A while back I had also purchased a Trinity Monster HP 17.5 Locked sensored brushless motor to go into a buggy that I didn't yet own! After checking out turns vs. kV I decided to go with the 17.5T. This motor was purchased used from eBay so I opened it up and cleaned it a bit.

Brushless Motors



Before going brushless I decided to upgrade the gears and locker in my rear axle. I also wanted to find a better solution to the MIP drive shaft pins. If they back out just the slightest bit you're going to lose front or rear wheel drive and maybe lose the pin as well. It happened with a brushed motor and I figured the likelihood of it having with a whole lot more power would be even higher! I never understood this design or how anyone at MIP would think it was the least bit durable! Seriously, the beveled pin butts up against a hole!?

Traxxas to the rescue! Traxxas part TRA5145. A pin that goes all the way through the differential outputs with a 4mm screw that is the same as the stock MIP screw.



I ran it a little in the yard, but my first competition with it was Axialfest 2014. It's taking a little getting used to because there are some subtle differences in the smoothness between brushed and sensorless brushless motors. I do however love the extra power and it has made the truck that much more fun to drive. Dare I say more scale with the ability to spin the tires and power slide now!?

[DowntownScience]

Bought a new front bumper with the 1.55 Pitbull Tires I won at Axialfest 2014. Don't own any 1.55's, but they were worth more than $50-!

R/C Rock Armor G6 Front Winch Bumper



I looked at ever R/C Rock Armor front bumper at my LHS and ultimately decided on the G6. I wanted the light mounts to match the rear, and so I didn't have to run the Axial light buckets anymore. I also wanted a spot to mount a winch (next project!). I run fairly large tires at the stock SCX10 width and have always had to cut the plastic bumpers down a bit for wheel clearance. This bumper looks sick on the truck. I love how high it sits with the ability to adjust the height. There is no gap between my body and the bumper. Pics to follow!

[DowntownScience]

Originally Posted by SAL45

Looks good! I like how you trimmed the dingo fenders! Nice Job

Thanks! Not too many choices when it comes to fender flares, but these did work out well once fit and cut to the body lines.

[DowntownScience]

Originally Posted by 1dmaxpwr

Nice build, I love how its progressing. I built an '86 Blazer 1:1 strictly off-road rig about 14 years ago and have been thinking about doing something similar with my SCX10 but just haven't started. Seeing how great your rig is coming out is very inspirational, makes me want to move forward with my own project.
Anyway, great job, the truck looks awesome.

Thank you. There is a Blazer down the street from me that I'm using as inspiration for my next build. I'll have to get some pics of it. You'll have to check the other thread on the SCX10 Blazer that another member submitted. It's really clean.

[DowntownScience]

Originally Posted by T I N Y

Well....You've got the number one thing down pat...Run and learn..You ran and you figured out what you needed to do to fix what you needed work on.Great job! You worked on all the areas you seen were wrong. A lot of guys would leave the ride height and just add weight.And they would add it to the wheels then have to do it to the other wheels .Good job thinking about the knuckle weights....I hope next time around you show them guys whos there to kick some a$$!

Each time out is a learning experience! I have changed so many things on this truck!

I didn't end up purchasing knuckle weights (yet!). I did purchase some Axial weight rings and put those on for Axialfest but have since taken them off (Didn't like how it made the foam more shallow because it ultimately changes the outside diameter of the rim). Decided to remove some sprung weight from some areas of the truck so that the unsprung weight I had added could shine!

You want weight in the right areas but not so much that it makes it harder for your truck to climb. Like a fat kid trying to climb a fence!

[DowntownScience]

Got a new radio!

I've been using the stock Axial radio for the last 6 months because....

I had a Futaba 3PL that I had purchased for my Short Course trucks. Really liked this radio and had several other FHSS receivers I had purchased for other vehicles. At my very first competition I broke the spring in the steering wheel on like the 3rd gate! Made for an interesting day and ultimately destroyed the radio trying to get to the spring!

Wanted at least 3 channels and wanted to be able to use the existing FHSS receivers I already had.

Researched on the Futaba website and decided on the 4PLS.



This radio is part of the same FHSS family as my 3PL so I can still use those receivers without Telemetry.

What a difference a quality radio makes! The brushless motor system already seems smoother and my steering is more symmetrical. When I would power up my Savox servo using the Axial radio I could never get my servo horn on straight. It was always one tooth over one way or the other and I had to adjust the steering trim a considerable amount just to make the truck go straight. This really jacks up the symmetry of left and right turns!

I read about sub-trim on the Futaba manual and was all ready to need to set it, but when the servo centered when connected to the Futaba receiver it centered correctly with steering trim at neutral.

The controller also feels substantial, but not too heavy. Fits nicely into my hand.

[QYKSLVR]

Is that TWO electronics boxes? lol

I really do enjoy looking at that blue also. Im going to have to paint something up with that!

[DowntownScience]

Originally Posted by QYKSLVR

Is that TWO electronics boxes? lol

I really do enjoy looking at that blue also. Im going to have to paint something up with that!

Yeah...it was a bit overkill! They're gone now. One stock axial box in back.

[QYKSLVR]

Im sure you will enjoy the 4PLS. How are the BPC rings treating ya?

[DowntownScience]

Originally Posted by QYKSLVR

Im sure you will enjoy the 4PLS. How are the BPC rings treating ya?

Love the rings. Good fit. Not running anymore because I stripped my axial 8 holes and my aluminum chinese specials have a different hole pattern. Blue monkey rc knuckle weights up front now.