scx10 / tamiya tundra/hilux body

[avoidsthelight]

Hey Dudes,

I have a SCX10. I also have a couple bodies laying around, one of which I currently run on my SCX10. The links have not been modified to fit the wheel base though. I am wondering - does anyone make a set of metal links that are already sized to accommodate the Tundra and Hilux from Tamiya. I know they are different, and I know my SCX10 is the longer wheel base....for the version that shipped with their Tacoma looking shell. I need to know, if there is a sizing chart or if anyone knows what length links I would need to run to make the Tundra shell and the Hilux shell have a correct wheel base. Anyone have this info handy? or is there a post with this covering these questions? I am really after the correct size links for the Tundra shell...the Hilux is secondary but I would greatly appreciate both of these measurements please.

Thank you in advance for your reply's.
best regards,
Paul

[sjc115]

I don't know the lengths you are looking for, but there are a bunch of threads on here and you tube videos showing how to make links from all thread and brake line. It looks very simple.

[JonnnScott]

8/32's all thread and 1/4" hard brake line with traxxas revo rod ends and you can make your wheel base whatever you need it to be. You need to measure the wheelbase of the body you want to use. The trail honcho is 12.3" wheelbase thats right around 312mm.

[lonleycreeper]

The hilux wheelbase is 11.4" or the short dingo wheelbase.

[Perkolator]

the info is out there if you look for it. i haven't seen any charts yet showing link length vs body for an SCX platform - sounds like it needs to be made though!

i'd do a bunch of googling with different combos of: tundra, hilux, link length, scx10. even better would be to use site-specific search for this (ex: "site:rccrawler.com tundra link length)"
I'm currently building a hilux on scx10 frame - I think i used the stock Honcho plastic links from extra parts bag to set the rear axle before I made them out of all thread/brakeline.

good luck!

[avoidsthelight]

I am finding stuff here and there. It would be cool though, if there were a chart out there, for seeing what size links would need to be on a given frame for a given body. Maybe if I find what I am looking for and I can verify it without having to build two different rigs, I can post this in a table.

[TacoCrawler]

purdy sure the Tundy has the same WB as the Hilux/Mojave bodies.

The Axial SCX-10 chassis come with 3 different link lengths.
Axial has those user manuals posted on their website for reference.

11.4" - Dingo and 2dr jeep

12.0" - G6 jeep

12.3" - Unlimited jeep and Trail Honcho

as was stated prior...
the Dingo's shorter 11.4" WB is what is needed
to fit the Hilux/Mojave/Tundra bodies.

other bodies used... converted toys etc...
will usually require custom made link rod lengths.

But most body manufacturer's whom design a specific body to fit the SCX-10 chassis...
generally design that to fit one of the above listed wheel bases.

It's not rocket science...
and your making it seemingly more difficult then it is.

But feel free to post up your chart.

I can't find it...
but thought I remember seeing someone else had done so...
posted possibly in one of the stickys at the top of this folder.


edit: Search here using Advance Search/SCX-10 - type "Link Length" in the search box.

There are more then 200 threads regarding this subject.

possibly you may find what you're looking for if you read thru.

[RubHamuSan]

I just bought the axial aluminium link kit. It will assemble all three lengths and has direction for assembling length a,b or c.
Also there is a kit on ebay to bolt the tf2/tamiya hilux body directley to the scx10 its about 35$ shipped from china.

[TacoCrawler]

^ screw china and their hit or miss junk.

Make your own... it's not that difficult.

Front...

I used velcro to mount the front...
the posts were left overs in my RTR kit.

They did require that they be shaved slightly to fit
into the front shock tower mount(s)

The tops of the posts already had a drilled hole
running vertically.

Then a lexan (1/8" thick) plate was adorned
to the tops of those... secured with tapered screws.

The lexan plate was counter sunk for the screw holes
and so that the velcro sticks to a flush surface.
Works good, holds well.

Maybe not as well... if your junk falls off a cliff.
Or you attempt to jump the roof of your house
but for normal crawling stuff... no worries.

Cool thing about utilizing spare parts...
The original body mount posts are spared
and can be re-used another day.

Note...

the posts on this rig rarely get pinned when they're inserted.
the posts are simply pressed into the mounts.
That's why you see the posts adorned to the hoods interior surface.






* another velcro body mount will be placed further rearward
to offer more strength/support to the bed.



out back...

The Hilux/Mojave deeper bed recess means
that the rear shock towers will need be removed
and an alternative for mounting the shock needs be considered.

The other choice is to cut holes in the bed to clear the shock towers
and the CO's as they protrude thru the bed. Kinda ugly IMO

Another option is utilizing the Dinky canti-lever kit.
If bolt on and go... is your thing.

A less costly option is...
to make your own shock/body mounts out back.

On this home brew fab...
A lexan plate and velcro is again utilized for the body's Rr mounting.





the end...