G6 wheel question

[team n.o.m.a.d]

Hi im building a scx10 g6 it will be used as an allrounder before i glue the tyres on how much weight should i put in them for a good starting point? Ive seached and found it varies alot. So jus need a good starting point thanks

[GodSpeed999]

Originally Posted by team n.o.m.a.d

Hi im building a scx10 g6 it will be used as an allrounder before i glue the tyres on how much weight should i put in them for a good starting point? Ive seached and found it varies alot. So jus need a good starting point thanks

If you don't mind, I'm just going to tag on to your question...

Also building a G6 Recon kit with the factory Walker Evans wheels. Do the Axial weights work with these wheels, or do you have to upgrade to beadlocks?

Axial Racing - 1.9 Internal Wheel Weight ring 43g/1.50z (2pcs)

*says - "fits all existing 1.9 Axial beadlocks"




And then to load up maximum weight, it says to buy (3) packs of these (and each pack contains 4 pieces)....so that means 6 of these inserts fit on each ring/wheel???

I find Axial's info a bit vague/confusing at times.

Axial Racing - 1.9 Internal Wheel Weight Insert 9g/0.33oz (4pcs)




*Edit - one more thing: do you have to carve out the foams to fit these? ....like tons???

[2500hdon37s]

An ounce or two will do. I found some lead wire (like 1/4in thick) and bent it around my wheels and pulled electrical tape very tight over it.

[lonleycreeper]

The beadlocks are designed completely different than the glue on wheels, so those weight rings will not work. Cheap option is to run by a tire store and pick up some stick on wheel weights, offer to buy them. Another option is to pick up some model airplane ballast, same stuff just more expensive.

Personally I don't like adding any weight in the wheels. The added stress on the drive train isn't worth it to me.
My preferred method is to add weight to the knuckles or axle. You will be surprised at what 3-4 oz of lead will do. I also tend to keep my trucks light. It really helps with the durability (Still running the original c hubs after 3years).

[2500hdon37s]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

The beadlocks are designed completely different than the glue on wheels, so those weight rings will not work. Cheap option is to run by a tire store and pick up some stick on wheel weights, offer to buy them. Another option is to pick up some model airplane ballast, same stuff just more expensive.

Personally I don't like adding any weight in the wheels. The added stress on the drive train isn't worth it to me.
My preferred method is to add weight to the knuckles or axle. You will be surprised at what 3-4 oz of lead will do. I also tend to keep my trucks light. It really helps with the durability (Still running the original c hubs after 3years).

how are you still running the stock knuckles and c-hubs????

the first run with my new G6 kit I had no weight in the wheels. and I had the knuckle arm flexing against rocks, its a wonder it didnt break. Given yes 400+oz is overkill on a 1.9 but even with 250+ I'd be worried. I broke hubs and knuckles on my old honcho then upgraded.

[TacoCrawler]

I'd only use tire weights if "crawling" slow - compound slow.

For higher speeds... using no tire weight would be best IMO

I run the axial beadlocks and axial's weighted ring system.
I like that the tires stay planted and conform well to the irregular surfaces.
The additional un-sprung weight helps keep the COG low.
Well... as long as the chassis sprung weight is kept to a minimum.

I use the stock open cell foams...
and they will usually stretch/conform to fit over the weight rings.
Doing so also stiffens up the tire's sidewalls.
tho' some stiffer foam inserts stuffed in, could make them too stiff.
Closed cell foam inserts would likely require trimming/grooving out the foams ID slightly to clear the weight rings.

If adding weighted tires...
The suspension/CO's will need be tuned for a stiffer oil viscosity/valving
then without using tire/axle weights.
But if tuned well... will improve the a scale look as the tire drops/droops off a ledge.

bottom line...

it really depends on how you intend to run/use your rig.


adding weight to the tires can add additional wear to the drive train/tires...
they will also reduce some of the drive train power/efficiency.
So if hauling butt and wheel speeds are more critical...
I'd fore go wheel/axle weighting.

[team n.o.m.a.d]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

I'd only use tire weights if "crawling" slow - compound slow.

For higher speeds... using no tire weight would be best IMO

I run the axial beadlocks and axial's weighted ring system.
I like that the tires stay planted and conform well to the irregular surfaces.
The additional un-sprung weight helps keep the COG low.
Well... as long as the chassis sprung weight is kept to a minimum.

I use the stock open cell foams...
and they will usually stretch/conform to fit over the weight rings.
Doing so also stiffens up the tire's sidewalls.
tho' some stiffer foam inserts stuffed in, could make them too stiff.
Closed cell foam inserts would likely require trimming/grooving out the foams ID slightly to clear the weight rings.

If adding weighted tires...
The suspension/CO's will need be tuned for a stiffer oil viscosity/valving
then without using tire/axle weights.
But if tuned well... will improve the a scale look as the tire drop/droops off a ledge.

bottom line...

it really depends on how you intend to run/use your rig.


adding weight to the tires can add additional wear to the drive train/tires...
they will also reduce some of the drive train power/efficiency.
So if hauling butt and wheel speeds are more critical...
I'd fore go wheel/axle weighting.

Thanks for the reply was gunna use it for abit of everything was looking at adding about 45grams to each wheel which is not alot but might help crawling and in wet muddy conditions. Also some alloy beadlocks weigh about this much . So what would you do? Do you think that 45grams is not to heavy in std wheels and wont strain anything? Your thoughts on this thanks

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by team n.o.m.a.d

Thanks for the reply was gunna use it for abit of everything was looking at adding about 45grams to each wheel which is not alot but might help crawling and in wet muddy conditions. Also some alloy beadlocks weigh about this much . So what would you do? Do you think that 45grams is not to heavy in std wheels and wont strain anything? Your thoughts on this thanks

~I think I may have put too much thought into this reply~ Lol


One pair of shoes just ain't cutting it... IMO

so I have two sets of tires/wheels
one set is weighted heavily...
and the other set has no weight aside from the tire/wheel.

I prefer the weighted tire/wheel set
as slow mo crawling is what I do/like most.

On occasion... I toss on the lightweight wheels
just to increase rpm and reduce rolling resistance.
A more spirited run I would say.

! Excessively weighted wheels will reduce operational run time slightly.
If I were running 2s I doubt I would use any wheel weights.
But I run 3s...
so that added power/torque turns the weighted wheels/tires much better

! If you're going to weight the wheels slightly...
I would recommend only weighting the fronts.
This will improve the chassis balance (fore/aft = 60/40)
and help keep the front end down while climbing.

I think 43 grams is close
to about what the Axial wheel weight rings weigh
stand alone. (1.48 oz = 45 grams).
But I also include all 6 inserts and nearly double the weight.
so... 3.48 oz (98.66 G) in each of my wheels/tires (Fr/Rr).

^ in addition to my wheel/tire weights...
I also roll steel "beef tubes" in both Fr/Rr axle housings.

! If it's gonna be heavier... it needs to be un-sprung weight added
Keep the chassis lite wherever/whenever possible.
stays upright better that way

^ not for everyone...
but I prefer how it crawls when the axles/wheels are laden.
The suspension articulates more scale like IMO.

Think my whole rig weighs in at nearly 9-10 lbs
and top speed might be around 4 mph.

Gluing tires to the wheels isn't great fun IMO
works for the budget... but that's about it.

Bead lock wheels would be a worthwhile investment.
^ easier to swap out to other tires...
and reuse your previous rubber, later.

If one insists on using the glue on plastic wheels...

a helpful note is...

The tires can be removed cleanly, W no damage to tire/wheel.
When boiled in a pot of water... (excessive CA glue will take longer)
They need to boil for 20-30 min (suspended below water surface if poss.)
Then removed to a sink or outside...
the sidewalls need to be pressed carefully off the wheel bead(s)
I use a block of wood so the hot water doesn't scald me.
If all the bead(s) don't break free initially...
back in the boiling pot for another 20, try again. etc/repeat

If boiled long enough...
most of the CA residue on the wheels and tires dissolves/flakes off
leaving both fairly clean and re-useable.
Sometimes the insert foams survive...
but less likely, if they are older, worn inserts.
Most stock insert foams suck anyways

just do it !

what will ya know ? if ya don't see for yourself ? Lol

[GodSpeed999]

So I CAN'T use the Axial weighted ring system with the stock Walker Evans wheels, correct?

Sorry. I'm slow.

[team n.o.m.a.d]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

~I think I may have put too much thought into this reply~ Lol


One pair of shoes just ain't cutting it... IMO

so I have two sets of tires/wheels
one set is weighted heavily...
and the other set has no weight aside from the tire/wheel.

I prefer the weighted tire/wheel set
as slow mo crawling is what I do/like most.

On occasion... I toss on the lightweight wheels
just to increase rpm and reduce rolling resistance.
A more spirited run I would say.

! Excessively weighted wheels will reduce operational run time slightly.
If I were running 2s I doubt I would use any wheel weights.
But I run 3s...
so that added power/torque turns the weighted wheels/tires much better

! If you're going to weight the wheels slightly...
I would recommend only weighting the fronts.
This will improve the chassis balance (fore/aft = 60/40)
and help keep the front end down while climbing.

I think 43 grams is close
to about what the Axial wheel weight rings weigh
stand alone. (1.48 oz = 45 grams).
But I also include all 6 inserts and nearly double the weight.
so... 3.48 oz (98.66 G) in each of my wheels/tires (Fr/Rr).

^ in addition to my wheel/tire weights...
I also roll steel "beef tubes" in both Fr/Rr axle housings.

! If it's gonna be heavier... it needs to be un-sprung weight added
Keep the chassis lite wherever/whenever possible.
stays upright better that way

^ not for everyone...
but I prefer how it crawls when the axles/wheels are laden.
The suspension articulates more scale like IMO.

Think my whole rig weighs in at nearly 9-10 lbs
and top speed might be around 4 mph.

Gluing tires to the wheels isn't great fun IMO
works for the budget... but that's about it.

Bead lock wheels would be a worthwhile investment.
^ easier to swap out to other tires...
and reuse your previous rubber, later.

If one insists on using the glue on plastic wheels...

a helpful note is...

The tires can be removed cleanly, W no damage to tire/wheel.
When boiled in a pot of water... (excessive CA glue will take longer)
They need to boil for 20-30 min (suspended below water surface if poss.)
Then removed to a sink or outside...
the sidewalls need to be pressed carefully off the wheel bead(s)
I use a block of wood so the hot water doesn't scald me.
If all the bead(s) don't break free initially...
back in the boiling pot for another 20, try again. etc/repeat

If boiled long enough...
most of the CA residue on the wheels and tires dissolves/flakes off
leaving both fairly clean and re-useable.
Sometimes the insert foams survive...
but less likely, if they are older, worn inserts.
Most stock insert foams suck anyways

just do it !

what will ya know ? if ya don't see for yourself ? Lol

Thanks again buddy your view and knowledge is valuable to me as a newbie to trail/crawling so might just weight the front std rims 45grams or invest in some beadlocks

[2500hdon37s]

Originally Posted by GodSpeed999

So I CAN'T use the Axial weighted ring system with the stock Walker Evans wheels, correct?

Sorry. I'm slow.

Correct.

the weight rings ONLY work on the bead locks! Like I said just get some 1/4- 1/8in dia. lead wire and wrap it around it fits perfectly into the center grove of the wheel, more so on the bead locks but still works on the glue-on/ walker evans wheels.

[kgb424]

CKRC my local hobby shop, sells Strips of sticky back tape with 1/4 OZ square weights on them, I wrap them around the center of the rim and tape them centered and even so it easy for the tire too bead on the rim, and they work good and are $1.25 a strip. For a 1.9'' rim you need 1 full strip and a quarter maybe of another. A 2.2'' rim is one full strip and almost the a second strip or more, it been awhile since I did them. I use pliers and bend the weights so there curved a little and I break the weights lose form each other, so when I wrap the rim they curve around it and it balances the weight better than if you left them uncurved.

[team n.o.m.a.d]

I've took the plunge and brought some headlocks made of alloy and each wheel weighs 75grams

[Spazzx]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

~I think I may have put too much thought into this reply~ Lol


One pair of shoes just ain't cutting it... IMO

so I have two sets of tires/wheels
one set is weighted heavily...
and the other set has no weight aside from the tire/wheel.

I prefer the weighted tire/wheel set
as slow mo crawling is what I do/like most.

On occasion... I toss on the lightweight wheels
just to increase rpm and reduce rolling resistance.
A more spirited run I would say.

! Excessively weighted wheels will reduce operational run time slightly.
If I were running 2s I doubt I would use any wheel weights.
But I run 3s...
so that added power/torque turns the weighted wheels/tires much better

! If you're going to weight the wheels slightly...
I would recommend only weighting the fronts.
This will improve the chassis balance (fore/aft = 60/40)
and help keep the front end down while climbing.

I think 43 grams is close
to about what the Axial wheel weight rings weigh
stand alone. (1.48 oz = 45 grams).
But I also include all 6 inserts and nearly double the weight.
so... 3.48 oz (98.66 G) in each of my wheels/tires (Fr/Rr).

^ in addition to my wheel/tire weights...
I also roll steel "beef tubes" in both Fr/Rr axle housings.

! If it's gonna be heavier... it needs to be un-sprung weight added
Keep the chassis lite wherever/whenever possible.
stays upright better that way

^ not for everyone...
but I prefer how it crawls when the axles/wheels are laden.
The suspension articulates more scale like IMO.

Think my whole rig weighs in at nearly 9-10 lbs
and top speed might be around 4 mph.

Gluing tires to the wheels isn't great fun IMO
works for the budget... but that's about it.

Bead lock wheels would be a worthwhile investment.
^ easier to swap out to other tires...
and reuse your previous rubber, later.

If one insists on using the glue on plastic wheels...

a helpful note is...

The tires can be removed cleanly, W no damage to tire/wheel.
When boiled in a pot of water... (excessive CA glue will take longer)
They need to boil for 20-30 min (suspended below water surface if poss.)
Then removed to a sink or outside...
the sidewalls need to be pressed carefully off the wheel bead(s)
I use a block of wood so the hot water doesn't scald me.
If all the bead(s) don't break free initially...
back in the boiling pot for another 20, try again. etc/repeat

If boiled long enough...
most of the CA residue on the wheels and tires dissolves/flakes off
leaving both fairly clean and re-useable.
Sometimes the insert foams survive...
but less likely, if they are older, worn inserts.
Most stock insert foams suck anyways

just do it !

what will ya know ? if ya don't see for yourself ? Lol

I used to do the same with boiling tires but the last couples sets I ran were proline glued and the boiling wouldn't cut it so I looked online and tried the baking idea and it worked much better for me. Doesn't ruin the foams and no scalding water squirting out. What works best for me is around 330-350 for about 20 min and they come off like butter. Another note if you have a toaster over take it out side or in the garage and do it. Some times you will get funny smells from doing it. Not best if the wife and kids are inside lol. I also take a couple Dremel wheels and stack them in the bit then clean out the beads. If you stack the right amount one pass leaves a nice clean bead for the next tire.