Notes about using the Stealth X transmission (Enduro trans)

[Sneetches]

Just some notes about those who want that juicy extra overdrive in their 10.2.

Firstly is the transmission build itself. You can buy the whole "Element RC Stealth X Gearbox" part # ASC42034 for around $50. That's nice and cheap but some of us run brushless or just want to reduce the chance of failure, so in reality you need the machined gears, (maybe) machined idler gears, and the aluminum spur gear hubs. Now your transmission is up to about $100. I found that with the stock plastic spur hubs my spur gear was out of round, but the aluminum hubs fixed the issue.

So it's worth noting that the machined gears (I opted not to replace the idlers yet) are really heavy compared to the stock plastic gears, so if you're a weight weenie you might cringe a bit. Note you only have 2 at a time and not 3, I just posted all 3 for the comparison.




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Here was a comparison of my kit version trans compared to the new Stealth X.




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Here's a pic of the fitment with the skid in stock position. You have to clearance the battery tray and the front crossmember because the Stealth X trans raises the gearbox up compared to a stock SCX10 transmission, which obviously fits OK in the RTRs. If you try to flip the skid 180° then you just end up with the spur getting put into the battery tray anyways, so it's however you want to do it. I think I've seen someone hack the bottom 1-2mm of extra height from the bottom of this transmission as well. I opted to leave the skid in stock position and trim the battery tray and front crossmember to fit. This isn't including the fact that the Stealth X can be built in a "motor foward" configuration, but I haven't tried that yet.



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[nedmo]

Great write-up!

Interested to see the motor forward position.

Also, do you have any idea if a axial based dig would work?

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

[HumboldtEF]

Yeah the metal gears are not light at all, I was pretty surprised. I have the plastic gears on the bench right now because I'm considering taking the metal gears out for the weight savings.

I have to think theres enough material on these metal gears to machine them down further if someone needed to use the metal version.

[OSRC]

I shaved down the bottom of my case. I put it on the belt sander and ground it down just a few millimeters - I didn't want to take too much meat off. Helps a bit with the clearance around the battery tray, I didn't have to take off too much for the drive shaft to fit.

Great write-up and pictures, I didn't realize the steel gears were that heavy. Currently, I'm running the stock nylon in my SCX10 with a Holmes outrunner and they don't seem to have any issues with the torque. They're pretty wide and beefy.

[Jakezilla]

I was planning on doing exactly this, so thank you for the info!